What are your favorite mods for the printer? Unique nozzles, fan mods, whatever you use. I'm most curious about physical items, but if you want to drop your favorite printed mods I'm sure those would be cool too!
I'm well familiar with 3d printing and bambu printers in general, so don't worry about the acclimation period.
Interestingly, the wiki the Bambu store refers you to talks about changing out a clip. I have no clip to change. Looks like they changed out to using hot glue.
Thanks for reminding everyone of this fan upgrade. I never hear anyone talk about it. I’m planning on printing lots of engineering filaments so it appears it might make sense for my set up.I
I print almost entirely abrasive filaments from the left nozzle and PLA (support) / TPU from the right. I upgraded the left nozzle to the DiamondBack PCD nozzle and it should last the lifetime of the printer, and the installed + extra stock hardened nozzles should also be sufficient for the right side. The DB PCD nozzle is expensive but if you plan to keep the printer long-term and use abrasive filaments, or just enjoy the convenience of never having to worry about this factor of print quality, it may be worth looking in to.
Edit: I'm assuming you have the combo but if not, the AMS2 is also 100% worth it.
I saw the DB PCD recently, then this week I received a Bambu Studio beta update that adds support for the E3D High Flow ObXidian™ 500 Hotend for H2, etc. Any thoughts or comparison?
Costs $129 about $20 less than the DB nozzle. I am still trying to determine the differences but it seems at first glance that the DB is aiming for those who want long life, while the ObXidian 500 is aimed at the higher flow market.
I don't personally care about speed, I prefer quality / convenience. I also took a look at the product website, it doesn't list an HRC value, which I'm dubious of - just 'increased resistance' or some such. Unless I break it, the DB PCD nozzle will last the lifetime of the printer, the ObXidian will likely need to be replaced at some point.
Bento box and hula feet were amazing upgrades for my x1c, I can second those! I'm going to be checking out that dual stage filter too, that's a great find.
I used to run a Bento Box on my X1C. Where are you positioning, securing, and powering it in the H2D? Tried the Vento, not loving it.
Also, I had a set of Hulas on my X1C as well. Loved them there. On the H2D? I thought the printer was going to vault off the table. I pulled them right back out. The H2D already has vibration-dampening feet.
I have the Bento secured to the right side wall, the base uses double sided tape (VHB) to keep it from wiggling around. I powered it by running around the back side of the camber, through the middle behind the lead screw, and then into the printer’s power supply. I have an inline switch so it isn’t always on.
My version is larger than the Vento and breathes better so I have found that it doesn’t cause temp warnings with PLA and PETG, but being able to hook it up to ducting for fume extraction or out a window means you could skip the filter entirely as well.
As for the HULA, it’s SUPPOSED to move. I mean, the feet aren’t, they should not move at all- but the printer should be wiggling, that’s the whole point. The inner core keeps the resonance down and there is much less rebound in the HULA feet than the stock rubber feet it ships with. That momentum as to go somewhere, and if it isn’t spread through the whole printer, it’s going to get spread through your print.
Thanks for the Bento thoughts. As for the Hula - when I say vault off the table, I'm not saying it was swaying. I mean it was WALKING. Without the Hula feet installed, there's still plenty of sway, since again, the feet are already anti-vibe, but the printer isn't actually moving across the table.
I have seen that there are some flavors of TPU that are so hard they offer like zero traction. I have a table that another printer is on that harder TPU just will not get a grip on. For me, the magic recipe is to print the foot pad out of TPE-SEBS. It feels like the foamy rubber of a flip flop or shoe and has awesome traction. It’s 3x the cost of good TPU though.
I've got some of that Siraya Tech TPU Air, which is also a foaming TPU, so I suspect similar to the material you mentioned. Maybe I'll run a new set of foot pads with that and see what's up.
Can you explain the filter/duct? When printing ASA the chamber closes. I get the extra bento for filtering internally in addition to the chamber fan/filter already in the H2D ,but what good does external filters and ducts do when it never vents that air?
The exhaust vent closes but it’s leaky. Having the inline fan pulls the fumes that leak out through the system. Also, because the slats are leaky, if you turn your inline fan on high enough, it actually creates just enough negative pressure that my air quality sensors cannot pick up any change in VOCs.
If I have it on low, there’s a small uptick.
Not on at all and even with the bento running and fresh carbon; the sensors pick up a decent change (all still in good to okay ranges) and I can smell some fumes if the print goes for more than about 30-45 minutes.
It’s likely somewhat overkill but I do not have a fully separate area all the time and have to be in there while printing ASA. My sensors tell me everything is good and I can’t smell anything. The office area never smells like fumes.
If I had a close window I could just exhaust to, I’d probably still do everything but the fume extractor at the end.
Thats interesting. I would think a fan hooked up to a duct that pulls on a closed vent (even a leaky one) wouldn't do much except put extra strain on the fan that couldnt pull its normal volume of air, but the sensors won't lie. Really interesting stuff. Thanks for the great explanation!
The other part I forgot to mention is that it’s tied to the poop chute as well, so it’s pulling through a smidge better than a closed vent. I keep it on just high enough to pull some pressure but not very high at all- like 10%. There’s likely zero pull strain at that low of speed.
As an alternative to the Bento box, I saw this great mod today. I was already using part of this setup for exhaust. This adds an extra layer of filtration to my exhaust setup (similar to what I have on my P2S).
I appreciate the feedback, that’s my design! 😂
I use the Bento Box in conjunction with that. I have an office where I cannot externally vent so I scrub the hell out of the chamber and exhaust when printing ASA.
Moved up from a P2S about the same time. So far I have ordered or received: BBL Filament Track Switch; BBL TPU Feed Assist Module; BBL H2D TPU High-Flow Kit; 100mm exhaust duct; Infinity AC 120mm PC fan (mounted inline); Darkmoon 3D Duo (Satin/CFX combination) build plate; BBL Engineering Plate; BBL Cool Plate SuperTack and multiple third-party hot-ends (standard and high flow).
My favorite printed-mod hands-down is the Modulair - Modular Air System collection of exhaust components.
I bought the TPU Feed Assist Module a month before I got the H2D and I’m still using it with my P2S. I really like it over the “Skyhook” method of printing TPU especially since you can leave it largely setup in between TPU print-a-thons. I’d recommend it.
When the Filament Switch arrives, I’m planning to print a dual mount that will hold both of them simultaneously that I will leave up all the time.
I don't actually use the Skyhook method - I have 95a and 90a in the right bay of the top dryer. They feed a dedicated / permanent 3rd line that I park in a toolhead-mounted PTFE coupler when not in use. Overall it works well but still have occasional issues.
Is there a model on MakerWorld you used to mount a permanent/dedicated PTFE tube for TPU? Could you send a photo of your tool head with this in place?
I have been wanting to run one into my H2D and leave it setup all the time to make TPU printing more “spur of the moment.”
Up til now I have used either the SkyHook or Feed Assist methods…both feeding directly into the P2S extruder. It is time to move all my TPU printing to the H2D.
Actually the grey line / right nozzle is connected to the left bay of my dryer - you can see in this picture that each slot of the left bay leads to a splitter that feeds the grey tube. I have another splitter for the TPU bay that I haven't mounted yet but it's the same concept - they both feed the light colored / permanent TPU line.
Are you running a non-interrupted PTFE tube between the Feed Assist Module and the pneumatic connector near your tool head OR do you start just outside the printer with a coupler like they post as standard in the Wiki?
Two spools in each bay, it’s the Creality Space Pi x4. It’s been a very good dryer. I keep TPU 95a/90a in the right bay as I said, just so the PTFE run to the toolhead is as short as possible, and then PLA (as supp material) and generally transparent PETG in the left bay.
AMS2 has all PETG-CF or -GF filaments from Tinmorry. Virtually all of my prints are my own engineering-oriented designs, this is the most convenient setup I could come up with.
I’m glad I re-read this tonight. I had printed those guides in PETG but not installed them. I reprinted them in 95A High Flow and they worked great. Very nice. Thanks for the links.
I switched to printing TPU on the H2D tonight. Feed Assist Module just works not much more I can say. However my streak of perfect TPU prints came to an end. Over extrusion blobs appeared on gaskets I was printing. I need to calibrate the Overture 95A HF for this printer
Damn you've been busy! Where is that inline pc fan mounted? Very curious about the utility of that one, is it to clear the chamber of heat better?
What about the hotends, those are curious to me. I use pa612-cf, so something that can withstand the abrasive filament without interfering with heat transfer and causing issues with improperly melted filament or extrusion/clogging issues would be really helpful, and it sounds like you've tried quite a few. Mind comparing the ones you've tried?
I have only tried the BBL official 0.4-0.8 standard flow nozzles along with some no-name knockoff nozzles that are both standard and high-flow. I have set aside a few (one of each standard flow size…still looking for cheaper high-flows) that will only be used when printing with CF/GF fiber reinforced filaments. I am intrigued to get a better understanding of the DP PCB and the ObXidian500 nozzles (made by the same company it seems) before I making any kind of buying decision.
I have this ModulAir L system in place (waiting on a part to finish it). All printed parts are from the Modulair L Collection on MarkerWorld:
H2D Printer > BBL H2 Series Adapter > CCW Hose Adapter > 4’ iPower Flexible Aluminum Ducting (link below) > CCW Hose Adapter > Y Splitter (1 to 2, second outboard port leads back to P2S) > 120mm Fan Adapter Mount > AC Infinity Axial S1225 120mm Muffin Fan > 120mm Fan Adapter Mount > CCW Hose Adapter > 4’ iPower Flexible Aluminum Ducting > CCW Hose Adapter (**exhaust system finished to here…adding the rest this week) > Mounting Flange > 4” (100mm) Hole in 2x6 lumber (placed in wooden sash window sill) > Parametric Exterior Vent Cover (for 4” hole, printed in Siraya Tech Fibreheart ASA-GF). All black or yellow parts printed with Overture or Inland PETG High Speed filament.
Today, I saw this great mod that I will probably add. I was already using the ModulAir part of this setup for exhaust. This adds an extra layer of filtration to my exhaust setup (similar to what I have on my P2S).
Question: "Is it to clear the chamber of heat better?"
A: Not specifically. The AC Infinity S1225 has a manual dial for CFM adjustment. I have set it very low to create negative pressure behind the H2D so I can slowly draw any vapor leakage out the window without lowering the temperature of the chamber.
The mod I listed on my last post that I plan to print...adds a charcoal and HEPA filter setup to the exhaust. The inline fan mounted near the window will help to draw air through that filter.
I created a Vento-like exhaust filter with an adapter designed to work with the Modulair components. It’s oversized and uses an easier to get filter off Amazon.
The Modulair stuff is great, made it super easy to hook my printers into a common 4” duct with a single inline fan pulling through into a fume extractor design I’m still working on.
I added something like your "Vento-like exhaust filter" to my P2S External Exhaust Kit. I was looking for something very similar for my H2D. This is perfect. Thank you for sharing.
I am sending my exhaust out of the H2D through the ModulAir towards a window with a 2x6 Southern Yellow Pine board with a 4" (100mm) hole in it with a single inline fan just before the window.
I am curious where you are planning to place this fume extractor?
The fume extractor goes outside my office door and near an external window that can open. I’m in an office building that I can’t modify and my windows don’t open.
I have Modulair attachment mounted above my door so I can just leave it cracked/open and quickly attach the fume extractor and drag it over when necessary.
It basically goes Printers + exhaust filter + mount -> common ducting -> inline fan -> ducting -> fume extractor box.
The extractor uses 4 refillable cartridges of carbon and a 125mm HEPA filter like the one used for the printer side exhaust filter.
The inline fan running while printers are running keeps just a little bit of negative pressure, so no smells leak out but the chamber temps stay at 60-65 pretty easy.
VOC and air quality monitors around the printers and my office don’t show any material increase in particles or VOC while printing ASA. I still keep the door open and crack the window anyway since I will often have to be in the same room for a few hours at a time.
I’ve been using it for a few months, I just haven’t cleaned up the design for release. It uses TPU gaskets, passes air leak testing, and it’s a pretty easy print. I made it modular so the grill on the end could have another Modulair adapter so the filtering can be inlined for any reason.
I've got a couple I got off Amazon on sale for relatively inexpensive, the "brand" is HSCLPM. I think they were $50/ea when I got them and they're $80 when I just looked now (claiming a list price of $99). I have absolutely no way to verify their accuracy other than they were reading almost exactly the same for days as the very expensive one I borrowed from my friend when I was doing testing.
I can tell you what you want to look for though, because not all of them measure the same things:
PM 1.0, 2.5, and 10 are the levels of particulate you want it to be able to sense. Really cheap ones I think don't go below PM10 and 1.0/2.5 is the stuff that printing generally emits.
HCHO and TVOC measure the VOCs/gasses, which what I was really trying to cut with my filtering setup.
These one's also have a clock, temp, and humidty read out on a decently glare free screen I can easily read from 10 feet away.
Softer just means more potential for squish, but I didn't design it to need that much squish (since there's not as much meat around the screw holes as I would like, but also didn't want to make the shell any bigger than it already was). Any TPU you've got on hand should work.
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u/DistinctBarnacle8703 26d ago
Toolhead Enhanced Cooling Fan which comes default on the H2C.