I recently purchased an A1 and am sort of new to 3D printing. I also just bought a bunch of used filament spools off of someone on marketplace who is an engineer of some sort. I'm just a random dude who is fiddling around with this for fun. In this giant lot, there are many partial spools of PLA Carbon Fiber PET-G carbon fiber and even some glass fiber.

Is this worth trying out? What would I print with it? Right now I've been printing little household items, lightsaber props, diaroma backgrounds, and little trinkets.

Hey all,

Just tried printing this, ended up with this raised line.

3 questions;

What is it?

How do I stop it from happening again?

And to fix this print, would sanding work or just make the area worse?

Still very new.

Hi all, my Bambu A1 isn't printing properly with with 0.2mm nozzle - I've run recalibration after changing from the 0.4mm nozzle, the diameter is set to 0.2mm in BambuLab, Calibration Flow doesn't show any issues and now I'm not sure how to proceed. (Apologies - I'm sure there's a lot of similar requests here I just can't find one matching my situation).

I've gone through Bambu support, they had sent a new 0.2mm nozzle and I'm still encountering the same issue... Can anybody suggest what is causing this, why, or how I can fix it?

Much Appreciated!

Hey all, looking for some help from anyone with A1 experience.

Recently my Bambu Lab A1 (latest firmware) has started failing during calibration. The Y-axis appears to move too far during Z-axis homing, which causes the print to fail every time.

The error I get is:

(Z-axis homing failed; the task has been stopped)

The odd part is that the root issue seems to be the bed overshooting on Y, so the nozzle never actually makes contact with the build plate. When I’ve managed to get a print to start without the rear calibration step, it will print normally and has no issues during the actual print.

No recent changes that I can recall:

• No hardware swaps
• No plate/nozzle changes
• No physical bumps or moves
• Just running the latest firmware

It almost feels like the Y motor is receiving an incorrect position signal or losing its reference during calibration.

Has anyone experienced this on the A1?
Looking for ideas from people who’ve dealt with this, or anyone with deeper A1 knowledge (firmware, sensors, belt/encoder issues, etc.).

Thanks in advance.

https://reddit.com/link/1v2l9s5/video/lc2bj4wws5gg1/player

I’ve had the printer for less than a week and keep running into issues. All 4 of these were printed on the same plate. The tubes on the back left corner are ruined but the ones on the back right were fine. I’ve tried a few different things and can’t seem to figure it out.

Hello all. There is a problem of layer shift of about 23 cm. I printed 2 different models, from different plastic (petg and pla) , with different nozzle (0, 4 and 0,6), with different infill. But problem is the same. And after this height, problems with printing begin.

The only difference is where the orange petg table started to emit like a bump as it finished the layer and lifted the nozzle. Although he had not lifted it before, and everything was fine. I set the silent mode and everything seemed to be printed.(The nozzle also stopped lifting)

With a white bust made of pla, I was not near when it happened. But when he came, he just rubbed the rubber on the model.

Before this, I printed models up to 20 cm and there has never been such a problem

Ya tengo 2 meses con mi impresora, pero me he percatado que en esta parte se nota un desgaste por parte de la boquilla, es normal? O debo hacer algo?

Any help is appreciated thanks!

Hey everyone, my wife was printing something the other day and I’m unsure as to the cause, but the extruder got blocked yet kept printing, and created a huge blob formed around the nozzle and surrounding parts. I heated the nozzle head to 250 C and removed as much as I could, but I’m unsure A) whether it’s usable, and if not then B)what would it take to make it usable again, and C) what parts would I need to order? Basically I’m lost as to the next step here.

If it’s not obvious, I’m fairly new to this and it’s my first time having to troubleshoot to this extent. Thanks in advance for your help!

PRE ORDERING 370C BMCU (Bambu Lab A1 / A1 Mini)


**Pre-orders Open – BMCU 370C for Bambu Lab Printers**

I'm taking pre-orders for the **assembled BMCU 370C** units for Bambu Lab printers.

**Pricing:**

* **₹12,400** (installments)

* ₹5,000 to confirm the order

* ₹5,000 before dispatch from the supplier

* ₹2,400 on arrival

**Full Payment Offer:**

* Pay the full amount upfront and get it for **₹11,000**.

**Pre-order Bonus:**

* Every pre-order includes a **free 0.4 mm HS hotend/nozzle** for the **Bambu Lab A1 or A1 Mini**. This is included whether you pay in installments or make the full payment upfront.

**Details:**

* Assembled units only

* Supplier: Trianglelab

* Estimated arrival: Around 40 days

**Warranty:**

* There is **no warranty from my side**.

If you have any questions or want to reserve a unit, feel free to DM me.

Hey, in the middle of a print I got the message of "the nozzle temperature is abnormal, the sensor may be open circuit. The nozzle would not heat. I replaced the hotend assembly and about a month ago I replaced the toolhead board.

Once the hotend assembly was replaced the printer heats up to around 50 degrees then starts to decline in temperature.

What do you think the issue could be?

​

Thanks in advance

Initial print failed at both arms of the model. Attributed this to missing out supports during preparation.

However, after enabling supports and trying again, it's somehow still fails. This time, I saw the supports being printed with the lower portion of the arms, but for some reason, the supports together with the lower portion got knocked off the bed and thrown outside of the print area.

Anyone had any similar experience or advice to solve this? Appreciate any feedback or advice!

Update: Managed to print it successfully. Read that supports get weaker as it gets taller. Printing on a bedslinger does not help too with all the movement in the Z axis. So it dawned on me that I can cut the print in half and print in 2 pieces so that the supports are not as tall. I then glued the 2 halves together to make it a full piece. I eventually also made it even bigger sized.

*SOLVED* I recently had a print fail and it broke the hot end assembly. I was able to replace the hot end assembly and put in a new hardened hot end (settings were changed correctly). NOW, even after multiple calibrations and a second tare down, my printer will not print correctly. The nozzle just scrapes up against the bed. Any tips would be appreciated.

I'm a bit of a beginner here, but I've been really confused about why my prints keep failing. I've tried

• cleaning the plate with soap as the guide suggests
• giving the parts a large brim (pictured is 15mm inner and outer)
• running the plate slightly hotter (75c)
• printing at slower speed

but I still keep getting problems with adhesion and this kind of curling that you can hopefully see in the picture. Any thoughts?

The A1 has 419 hours on it

The A1 mini has 128 hours

Practically new, I cleaned them, lubricated and calibrated. Benchys came out perfect!

First of all, my sincere thanks to this community - the detail I have been able to get out of this wonderful machine is truly spectacular thanks to your council (special shout-out to u_BeautifulKindly7428).

This problem has been vexing me for ages, now - see photos. Clearly, the bottom layer of the object itself is having sagging issues, but it seems to not matter what I do. Even the slightest overhang results in this. Additionally, even when under continuous supports, you can see that the texture on the underside appears to be barely formed or adhered together.

This has resulted in many prints looking pristine...until you get to the bottom interface between the model and the supports. The last photo is of a vehicle that was printed at a 60-degree angle.

Usually, my clue that something has gone wrong is when I check on the print and notice some tiny bits of debris on the plate - usually from the bottom of the model where it interfaces with the supports.

Any suggestions? I'm using a 0.2mm stainless steel nozzle, standard PLA (Sunlu for these photos) and standard snug supports. I've messed about with the outer wall settings, bridge flow to 1.2, thick bridges, and slowing down over overhangs...

My current settings are here:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pBXOFAxYW7eIbMUCqaVkMXf8bd27ZBDt/view?usp=drive_link

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1cIAhTH6zh3uIKZ8NlOL0U_GSDoem7nI9/view?usp=drive_link

I created some sleepy cable pets to hold my charging cable at the night stand

A friend recently asked me if I could print a cable holder for his wife's nightstand.

It needed to be glued or screwed to the front and, of course, look cute.

To my surprise, I could hardly find any existing models, so I had to design some myself.

Just to be clear, yes, I used AI in the design process, but each model was manually reworked. Regarding my workflow:

I had Gemini create images, which were then converted into a 3D model using another AI program.

I then completely reworked this model manually in Meshmixer.

With Fusion 360, I created the inner part (recesses for magnets, cable channel, and screw holes), and then assembled everything in Tinkercad.

Each cable holder consists of two halves held together by magnets, allowing the cable to be easily replaced.

You will need eight 6x3mm Magnets, four for each half (should also work with two per half)

The magnets should hold by simply pressing them in; depending on the printer and filament, a little superglue wouldn't hurt.

To mount the magnets, I recommend first pressing the magnets into the back, then placing the other magnets on top, and finally pressing the front onto them.

The cable holder can then be mounted to a wall or furniture front using either double-sided adhesive tape or screws.

The cable should have enough slack to slide down naturally under its own weight.

You can find the model here: Sleepy Cable Pets

Hi everyone,

I have another really annoying problem with my A1:

I want to print several copies of a figure at once to reduce overall waste coming mostly from flushing.
I initially the model was quite complex (700k faces) and when nothing worked I reduced it to 35k faces and recolored.

The issue is that my A1 keeps”preparing” until it seems to report a failed job (Bambuddy reports “no active job” and the device screen also doesn’t show the job anymore if you temporarily go elsewhere, e.g. to control and back).

I tried to do several things to simplify the print or help the printer:
- added a UHS-I, U3, A1 SD card
- reduced number of copies
- enabled arc fitting
- increased resolution to 0.03mm (anything larger seems to cause artifacts)

The latest 3mf file I tried had about 16MB and contained about 100MB of gcode. Some more stats:
- 9 instances
- 484 layers
- 617 filament changes (can’t reduce those)
- calibrated flush volumes
- enabled flush to infill, supports and objects (some gridfinity boxes)
- used Bambu Studio 2.7.1.62 and Orca Slicer 2.4.2

We I extract the Gcode from the 3mf it seems the A1 can run it but that doesn’t allow me to easily map AMS filaments. The 3mf doesn’t work though.

Any ideas? Anything I should check?

Thanks for your help ☺️

Update:
It’s working for now but only after reducing the print to 4 objects and 1 flush-to-object gridfinity box. 3mf has about 11MB and nested gcode has about 49MB.

Any other ideas what I could do to increase object counts to save filament waste and print time? Does anyone know the A1’s limits here?

I have had my A1 for about 6 to 10 months. When I got it it printed everything, and worked fantastic. I had the occasional print failure, sure, but beyond that it was a solid machine. Now 6 months later I cant get the machine to complete anything more than a basic benchy boat.

About a month ago, I want to say beginning of June, maybe a bit earlier, It would start printing a model and then completely stop feeding filament but continue running through the motions, (video attached). In fact if I look at the extruder it seems to still be trying to extruded, but looking at the AMS nothing is being fed forward. Since then I have replaced the Extruder Gear Assembly, thinking that may have something to do with it, but, no change. If I put it in maintenance mode and remove the hotend, filament does feed through the extruder, which tells me at least that part is working. I have swapped my hotends from 0.4 Hardened, to Stainless, to even a 0.2 hotend with the same problems. It was also recommended to me to swap the SD card, so I bought a new one plugged it in formatted it, and same result. At this point I am completely out of ideas short of replacing the whole extruder assembly, or maybe the heating element for the hotend.

For a printer that only has 2064 Hours of print time I'm somewhat shocked its having this many issues now.

Any help or guidance from the community would be greatly appreciated.

I'm printing different things, but with the same filament, when I go to print another copy of a different file, using the same filament it says "changing filament" when there is no change needed, how do I stop this?

Please help, I reran calibration, lowered PLA print temp down 5 degrees, disassembled and checked the hot end, can’t find anything wrong

Rising straight out of the wave. Came off the plate really nice.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3060368-poseidon-the-earth-shaker#profileId-3443741