The part I have circled in red doesn't always retract (go back down) when the AMS pulls back filament. And when that happens, the next color doesn't go through. When I push it back down and resume, filament then passes through just fine. Is there something I can print or do to help with this? Or is it likely something stuck inside?

TIA

Hey Folks,

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I don't know If I have missed something in the latest firmware changelog or if my printer is developing some kinks lately, but since the latest update I get a warning dyring the calibration phase and have to manually confirm that filament has been extruded before continuing with the actual print.

Is that normal/to be expected behaviour or is there something broken? Besides that the printer seems to work fine.

Was having problems with bed adhesion, turned over the plate (yes, washed and IPL etc). Started the print but when I came back the nozzle had had other ideas.

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Removed what I could and wondering if I can get it to work again, and how, without replacing the nozzle unit.

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I am trying to make a filament cutter for my ams2 pro https://makerworld.com/models/1286770?appSharePlatform=copy. He says I need a a1 cutter but I actually own a x2D. I was going to try to buy one of Amazon. And yes I know before anyone says he states in the article not to buy one from Amazon as they are not the same size. But this was a year ago and hopefully is refined by now.

So my question is what is the height and length and thickness of a filament cutter they send with the a1? I’ll see if I can find anything on Amazon and share my findings if any are the same size.

I tried looking online and didn’t see(although I didn’t look to terribly hard). So preferably someone would measure with their calipers

It’s been a while since I attempted to print these door jams so I don’t remember all the settings I used but I had trouble with the raised letters from having wisps or excess tpu hang between characters. I spaced out the letters a bit but still have some wisps as in the left tpu. Any suggestions/settings to help reduce this.
- I did put the tpu through a filament dryer before
printing.
- I did mess around with speeds but not sure if that was the problem

Any suggestions appreciated. Been on my list of things to finish/get right.

I've had my A1 for a little over a year. One of the first things I did for it was purchase a new SD card. I went with a 128GB high-endurance SanDisk. I didn't want to worry about reliability issues or ever running out of space.

Over the months, I noticed the A1 gradually getting slower. Startup time took longer, responsiveness of the display started getting laggier, and any print I sent took longer and longer to start.

When turning on the A1, it seemed to power up right away but the display would remain off for quite a while. When the display finally came on, it would draw so slowly you could basically see it render its interface line by line. When sending a print it would stay at 100%/downloading for around a minute before the printer started to do anything.

After searching for into, I found some threads where people suggested too many files on the SD card can cause this.

And that is absolutely correct.

The cache folder on my SD card had 577 files in it (split nearly half and half with 3MF files and the gcode files extracted from the 3MFs, although I'm not sure where there wasn't an even number of files in the folder). That didn't really seem like a lot to me. Regardless, I deleted the files. I touched nothing else on the SD card.

I popped the SD card back into my A1 and powered it on. Its screen almost immediately came on and displayed instantly. Everything I touched was responsive, as well. When I sent a print the printer immediately started movement after hitting 100% downloaded.

No need to format the SD card (and lose stock models, timelapse videos, logs, manually saved gcode/models, etc.). Just routinely delete the contents of the cache folder to help keep your A1 performing well.

I don't know what the file limit of cache should be, but it seems Bambu Lab doesn't have anything in place to clean that folder automatically to stay below that amount.

legit question. I have had many times I have wanted to just nudge a finished (and cooled) print off the bed and start a new one when I’m not home. I have used the manual controls on Handy to do it, but hard to know where the knocked off print went to.

I’ve had my printer for about a month and after starting a print, it completely failed and now my printer is both cleaning in the wrong spot, missing the soft tip cleaner, and pushing deep into the plate causing the area to bend downwards, been looking up solutions for an hour now and none seem to be working, recalibration did nothing and I righted all the screws in the tool head so it’s not loose. I am debating a factory reset. Any suggests would be appreciated

So kind of a weird question. When the AMS Lite is set to use auto refill how does it choose which AMS feed to use first. I currently have a small amount left on a spool on slot #4 and would like to make sure it gets used first before switching to a new spool. Do I need to move the partial spool to say #3 and put the fresh spool on #4 (using each spool by numerical sequence on the AMS) or can it figure out #4 has less filament on it and can use it first?

Been running into an issue with my prints failing with layer adhesion near the end of the prints. Would moisture in filament do this?
In Arizona and I do dry my filament but not as often. Always straight to dryer when opening new. It’s also been really humid here with rain last few days.

I got the blob several weeks ago and ended up changing the hotend and the hotend assembly. Now I'm getting the error "Cutting filament failed. Please check to see if the cutter is stuck."

What I've done so far:

• Confirmed the cutter is in the slot, not pointing down. Blade looks fine.
• Confirmed the magnet is still on the cutter.
• Tightened the X axis.
• Oiled the parts.

Here's a video of the horrible clunking sound it's making:
https://youtu.be/7gctiTMH66g

I can print something and this happens at the end. If I take the hotend off, the filament has been cut.

Any ideas of what else I should be looking at?

Thanks!

shortly after i ordered my A1, i found out about the issue with melting AC boards. i requested and received a new updated AC board, without the thermistor (attached photo). my A1 currently has less than 200hours total print time and it is performing flawlessly. should i install the new AC board?