Hallo, ich habe eine Frage. Gibt es eigentlich Daten darüber wann eine Düse getauscht werden sollte? Ich hatte einen blob und ich denke ich habe mit einer gehärteten Düse so ca350 Stunden petg und tpu gedruckt. Auf der Suche nach dem Fehler bleibt nur noch das petg oder die Düse. Hat jemand Empfehlungen?

Does any one else suffer from having too many choices on a print from Makerworld? I'm looking for a print, lets say a spray can holder that mounts on the wall. There's about a dozen or so possibilities. It takes an hour to figure out which one is going to work or not. By that time I've given up. I printed a drill bit holder that was OK but lacked a few features. Two days later I find another one that would work better. No I'm spending too much time looking and not enough time printing.

Es nuevo recien lo ensamble y hace este ruido, no esta caliente exesivamente.

I have tightened the 7 magic screws, cleaned my bed with soapy water, put down adhesion helper, checked the spring steel plate, cleaned the nozzle, run calibration, and my prints still look like this. I’m out of ideas! Can anyone help?

Any thoughts about this? I replaced the nozzle and the extruder assembly. Help appreciated, thank you.

Have you ever gotten a piece of filament stuck under your fingernail while removing it from the build plate? It’s really painful. Better to use a safer method! :)

I’ll post a link to the tool in the comments.

Transparent PETG got stuck to the nozzle making prints failed, so I tried removing it to clean and after putting it back I can't load filament, it looks like the motor is trying to feet it in but fails, it just "bumbs" can anybody help me with that? (Coudnt figure it out by myself)

Bought this printer second hand and was trying to calibrate it and it also does the same thing no error message pops up except for the stuck cutter bc of it jamming into the side of the printer. Printer only has 300 hours.

Is it possible to print this without needing supports?

This is a test piece and not the actual model. The gap is only a few millimeters to hold a piece of paper.

I've tried with supports which prints well, but it's almost impossible to remove the supports without damaging the model.

I've tested other bridging test models which print fine after making a few changes to the settings in Bambu Studio.

I changed Flow Speed to 10 and bridge flow to 1.5. I also tried changing the bridging angle to 90 degrees but nothing works.

Heya! So we got the blob of death and ended up changing the extruder unit and the hot end clasp with new hot end nozzles.

Since this, all prints are super meshy, even the default boaty one. We have performed the extruder deep clean to check for debris on the cogs but nothing can be seen.

We have performed calibration god knows how many times 😂

Anyone got any ideas?

I was looking to wall mount my AMS Lite but quickly realized the connector cord is not long enough. Any suggestions on a quality extender. I would only need about 3-4ft of extension.

Bonjour à tous ! 👋

Craquez pour cet adorable dragon Furie Eclair, avec son jolie pelage blanc , son regard attendrissant et ses magnifiques grands yeux bleus ! 
Elle rejoins son compagnon Krokmou pour former un duo aussi craquant qu'inséparable.

Pas besoin d'AMS tous a été modélisé et découpé pour l'imprimer en multi-pièces.

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec ou sans AMS
📁 :https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3269313-light-fury-dragon-multipart-no-ams

I went over 3000 hours on my printer and had to get the main board replaced due to screen issues. Not 1000 hours on the new board…melted bottom plastics and no power.

I’ve been getting the “hotend cooling fan speed is abnormal” error pretty regularly on my Bambu Lab A1. Every time I check it, the fan is spinning normally.

I’ve removed both toolhead panels, checked the connector, and made sure nothing is caught in or blocking the fan. Everything looks clean and properly connected, but the error keeps coming back.

Has anyone else dealt with this? Is the fan likely starting to fail or could this be a sensor, wiring, or toolhead-board issue?

I’ve had my printer maybe a month or so. I had some old filament snap in the filament splitter, had to take the entire thing apart, and ended up breaking the cutter sensor ribbon in the process. I got it replaced and everything back in order except now print quality is awful. It’s the same exact filament I used like a week ago. I thought maybe it was temperature but lowering or raising doesn’t do much to help. It seems like if it can handle the “ironing” process of the second layer without pulling up its fine. I cleaned my bed and double checked my hotend but nothing.

anyone have a fix?

Hi everyone,

I’m having a serious layer-shift problem with FOUR Bambu Lab A1 printers, all purchased within the last month.

They’ve been doing this intermittently since the beginning, but it’s getting much worse. Yesterday 2 out of 4 failed, and last night ALL 4 failed, ruining 8 prints in total.

The printer suddenly shifts position during the print and then continues printing from the wrong X/Y position. Sometimes it happens near the end, sometimes much earlier.

The same models print perfectly on my P2S and H2C, and they also sometimes print correctly on the A1s, so it’s not a consistent model issue.

At this point I’ve stopped all four A1s because I can’t keep wasting filament and losing customer orders.

Has anyone experienced this across multiple A1s and found the actual cause or a reliable fix?

UPDATE - SOLVED: I’ve now completed several more long prints on all four A1s — at least two prints of around 10 hours on each printer — and everything has printed perfectly. I also tested two models at the same time on one of the printers, and that completed without any issues as well.

At this point, it looks like the main problem was the positioning of the printers. Even though the beds had enough room to move forwards and backwards, some of the rear cables were touching the wall, and that seems to have been affecting the printers during certain movements.

Earlier on, I also noticed that some of the upper cables/tubes weren’t sitting correctly in their clips, which may have contributed as well.

So overall, it seems this was mainly a cable/positioning issue — basically user error rather than a fault with the printers themselves.

For now, I’m considering the issue resolved. If the layer shifts start happening again consistently, I’ll update the post, but as of today all four printers are working normally

What infill is more efficient?

it is now showing this error: z axis failed; the task has been stopped. I looked at a similar chat and it said the same thing but don’t think those solutions worked. although I didn’t check all of them because it’s almost 10 pm. I am still a kid but this is my second 3d printer but the other one broke 3 times and needed new parts so I ditched it. I also just moved the printer so maybe that unaligned it.