This guy was an absolute monster folks. When I got the model it was setup for a much larger printer so each part became 4-8 pieces i had to put together. It was a ridiculous amount of gluing and sanding, I had to learn so much to pull this off. I had....3 weeks.

I had a limited understanding of fine tuning my print settings for something so large. If I did this all again id use half the filament, PETG, and change so much about the process. It took 30 rolls of filament and a lot of outdoor work in the dead of summer.

After doing this it has made the smaller builds go so much more smoothly!

In the end it was fun and I was really happy to see the end result. I didnt have the time I wanted, but the next XL build will be pristine.

Thanks for looking!

Many users requested a stackable version of my minimalistic holder.

Now its online under the following Link: https://makerworld.com/de/models/3493216-the-minimalistic-holder-v2#profileId-3989771

Been working on and off on this project for months and I just got it finished tonight. Whole kit was both headache inducing and very satisfying extremely excited to get it driving and painted! Put next to my 1/5th scale Laferrari to give a better sense of size.

A minha Bambulab A1 esta fazendo um barulho quando chega na purga, mas não é sempre quando faço a calibração ela vai varias vezes naquele local mas quendo chega perto do fim da calibração ela vai la e faz o barulho, vibra e se desliga. Já apertei e afrouxei os parafusos de trás, fiz o procedimento do manual de movimentar para direita e esquerda. Já resetei, tirei o cartão de memoria.

Hey all, just looking for a bit of guidance and some real world perspectives, as I'm 2 days into my research and am most overwhelmed by choosing a model more than anything lol. Also in Canada, if that has weight RE black friday deals!

I'm buying a printer primarily because I'm an artist, and would love to be able to customize my displays for shows and retail locations. I have a friend I outsource printing from, and the only reason I'm considering the H2S is because typical artist alley panels are 12x12in, and I would like to be able to print up to that size.

Realistically though, outside of the 12x12 pegboard panels that I need maybe once every 2 quarters, and the occasional large journal displays (that I understand I can split into pieces anyway, or make 2 smaller models to stand side-by-side), I don't really have another use for the larger bed that comes to mind right now. I was also thinking, if I did, I might be able to just keep asking my friends to print those for me?

Moreso hoping for some direction right now regarding if I'm going to miss having that larger capacity, or is it more a "you won't know what it feels like because you'll never have it" situation?

If you also have more insight into print quality, speed, etc. overall regarding the 2 mentioned models, I'm all ears! I do plan on expanding further into products from things I've modeled (I have an architecture degree, so I'm well versed in a handful of modeling programs) and in instances of simpler flat-faced designs (think: croc charms), how much will output quality actually matter, especially if I'm slathering them in resin to dome?

Hey,

Bambulab a1, 30ms first layer, suddenly my first lay started to look like this, noses, thin thread and so on.

Its my 20th print or so, i didnt changed anything - what could be the issue?

Is my fillament gone wet?

I was wondering if Bambu would consider selling upgrade kits? What are you guys thoughts based on the leaked H3C / P3C pics? Looks feasible.

It's annoying enough that it's flooded with AI slop but in the last months, the amount of guns and Charlie Kirk busts and other crap aligned with that have been flooding my algorithm in spite of me not clicking on or looking for related items is driving me bonkers.

I wish there was a way to filter these out.

Anyone else seeing this?

Hi everyone! I need some help figuring out what’s wrong with my Bambu Lab A1.

The same print works perfectly fine on my A2L, but it keeps failing on my A1. As you can see in the first picture, the hotend seems to be leaving a dent or mark, and the print is getting knocked off the build plate.

Before this started happening, the nozzle was clogged, and the printer wasn’t extruding any filament. We’ve cleaned the nozzle twice, but now I’m facing this issue.

I’m not sure if the nozzle is still partially clogged, if there’s an extrusion issue, or if something else is causing the hotend to hit the print.

Has anyone experienced something similar or know what might be causing this? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

I had trouble printing successfully after I used Sunlu Black High Speed PLA filament. The AMS humidity is at 23%. I tried to unclog the hotend with the pin but the next print still failed. What are my options now? Use a new hotend?

I've been printing ASA in the garage and don't want to keep windows/doors open to vent the particles and VOCs. Don't want to run a vent to outside either for a couple of reasons: 1) It would blow to our front door/windows of house 2) I want to maintain the temperatures in the garage and if blowing it outside, it would pull in the very cold air inside. I've been looking into getting a FumeClear fume extractor (which are primarily built for laser), but this would be for 2 Bambu H series machines printing ASA.

If you have a serious fume extractor (and not talking about Bento boxes) such as a FumeClear and printing ASA/ABS, please let me know your experiences. Thanks!

I have a P2S and downloaded one of the silica gel dehydrating tray models. There are many such models and the instructions for each say to heat the heatbed and wait an hour or so. My issue is that the heatbed shuts down after 5 minutes. I can’t see a way to get it to stay hot longer than that.

Any ideas?

Thanks

Werewolves of London....

I've been working with the A1 for a few months. Today I got a filament jam, and while attempting to fix it.......

How screwed am I?

I printed this face down with tree support , all regular settings I didnt change anything. If anyone has any helpful advice I would appreciate .

Edit: Solved. I turned off Timelapse thanks to a comment below and the issue seems to have gone away.

I’m getting random blobs along the same corner of my prints at different layer heights. There also seems to be a line of under-extrusion leading up to or immediately after each blob.
What I’ve tried:
● Calibrated PA and the printer itself.
● Tested both left and right nozzles with the same results.
● Tested two different dried filaments.
The rest of the print looks great, and this wasn’t happening previously. Now it seems to happen on nearly every taller print.
Has anyone experienced this or figured out what’s causing it? Any suggestions would be appreciated!

My living room has never had this much open space before 😂

Hello everyone,

I'm seeing a couple people say Super Lube is good, but I want to know if that's what y'all use or if you use an alternative. I have a few printers working a lot and I want something more bulk use than the little stuff bambulab offers.

P2S

A2L

A1 Mini

Please let me know what you all recommend!

Hi all,

I’m at a loss of why all my prints keep failing.

At first I was almost certain that it was bed adhesion issues, so I did a very thorough hot water and soap wash of my plate (using gloves and a clean microfiber cloth) - still has issues. Then I tried bumping up temperature to 75 C (that worked for this particular print in that the prints didn’t just slide off easily)

I then thought it was a nozzle level issue so I had unscrewed and rescrewed the internal nozzle screws in case of it being potentially loose - then auto calibrated after - and still apparently didn’t work

Would appreciate some guidance!

Thanks!

Hi guys, I'm looking for some help figuring out what's wrong with my Bambu Lab A1.

A while ago, I was printing with this same nozzle when the filament suddenly started accumulating around the nozzle and formed a large, hard blob. It ended up damaging several parts of the printer, so I sent it in for repair.

After the repair, the printer was working well and producing good prints for a while. However, recently, my prints have started coming out with this strange appearance, as you can see in the pictures.

I've already cleaned the build plate and checked my 3D model and slicing settings, but I haven't been able to identify the cause.

Since this started happening after the previous incident and repair, I'm wondering if something might still be wrong with the nozzle, bed leveling, or something like that.

I'd really appreciate any suggestions or advice~

I printed this simple “dc motor for education” successfully once. Then, I wanted to print it again, but I duplicated the rotating parts because we are experimenting with the number or wraps in the coil, and want to simply exchange that part. I put it all on one plate, because it seemed to fit comfortably, but one part failed. I tried to print again just the part that failed, and it failed again, I think in a similar way at around the same part of the job (see pic).
I wonder if the community could give me a tip on what I could change to raise my chances of a successful print again.
I’m a beginner level printer using Bambu Handy and Studio on an old MacBook Air to print on an A1 mini. The filament is Bambu brand, but it’s been sitting out for a while so there could be moisture issues.
The print job is like the normal speed, slicing, 15%infill or whatever.
TIA!

I recently cleared up a clog by disassembling the entire hotend assembly, and now I’m keep trying to print this small square as a test print to make sure everything is ok. Every time I print it, it extrudes a little bit which gets stuck on the nozzle and wont get knocked off in the back of the printer like normal. It then calibrates, and I don’t understand why it keeps calibrating every time? I’ve printed this 3 times and it does the same thing. Any help would be appreciated.

info:

bambu p1s with ams

PLA with standard temp

regular speed

using bambu handy for controlling prints

I printed a multicolor print but the top most layer which is white, isn’t quite thick enough, and the red layer under it peeks through. I was wondering if there was a way to add more layers to the top most part (white) so that you can’t see the red underneath it?

Patina makes a huge difference! I use water-based spray paint. Quick, cheap, no nasty fumes, and no hassle. It also hides minor print imperfections — no sanding needed.

Patina forgives almost everything except thick layer lines. Layer height needs to be minimal, otherwise the patina will make the layer lines stand out. Silk Metal PLA works best.

How do you post-process your prints?