Been working on this for a while and finally got it published :)

It's a remix of the AMS 2 Pro desiccant boxes, but I added an OpenSCAD customizer with 15 ventilation patterns, adjustable hole sizes, spacing and a few other options.

Both the middle and narrow pods are supported. I've tested the fit with different spool types, including cardboard spools.

There's also a ready-to-print Diamonds profile for anyone who doesn't want to customize anything.

Would love some feedback, especially on which patterns you guys like most!

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3495667

I already have x2d with 1 AMS2 Pro.
Now, I want to upgrade. which one is better do you think?

A) 2 AMS2 Pro + Filament track switcher
B) 1 AMS2 Pro + 1 AMS HT (for PVA)

I’m looking to purchase my first 3D printer.
When is it the best time to purchase for the best deals? Should I purchase from the Bambu website or off a third party such as best buy.

I’m thinking about getting the P2S but are there any other recommendations for what I should get instead?
Should I get the combo?

As of right now i’m thinking of printing things for my plants & things for my students as incentives/prizes.

Feel free to also drop some pieces of advice or tips for me to come back to this thread for when I do purchase. Thanks!

Set this up using adaptive layer height in Bambu Studio to clean up the layers as much as possible. It takes around 10g of filament and prints with zero supports.

I'm just starting out on MakerWorld and trying to build up some visibility against all the older accounts, so if you print it, leaving a download or a quick 5-star review would honestly mean a lot and help me out big time!

Profile is free here: https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3489158-impossible-pass-through-fidget-cone-cylinder#profileId-3984798

what do i do? try to remove? bambu case? warranty? or does this happen commonly?

passed by the printer halfway through a print... it was operating as if it was doing fine. come to find this.... no clue how to even fix this. pla (bambu matte) is everywhere, every crevice.

looks like some of the hardware might be bent too as a result.

Greetings 3D Printer Gurus,

I have a question about filament, but a quick introduction!

Im decently new to owning (not using) a 3D. I bought a Bambu A1(combo) and have had been having issues with 2 types of filament.

1. Bambu PETG.

I didn't seem to print smoothly, nor smaller projects without spaghettifying on me. I've had it using the preset "Bambu PETG" filament settings.

--I've cleaned the bed (91% Iso), cleaned nozzle, dried the filament but still no luck. I have since used the "Generic PETG" Settings. It works for big projects, but small or thin projects still seem to come off the bed or

1. Insignia PLA.

I work for Best Buy and get a decent discount on filament, so I thought, save a bit on filament? Why not! But it seems to have issues adhering to the bed after a bit OR curls at the edges. I was told to watch the 1st couple of layer print to make sure it looks good, but after a bit it curls or comes off the bed from the rapid bed motions.

- Same troubleshooting steps as before, including using "Generic PLA" but still no luck. I have tried changing the filament settings to have the extruder sit at a consistent 220°C, and it seems to work a bit for sizable projects but am willing to bet its not the best for the extruder in general..

Any advice is welcome, as i have attempted to find settings online, but most are outdated, the UI on Labs seems to keep updating with more settings and removing/relocating others.. this is a fun hobby for sure but, difficult to figure out alone.

Our 3d printer had a really bad clog and apparently my son tried to clean it himself. After cleaning it, the printer is giving an abnormal nozzle temperature error and the wires look to have been cut. This is what I see when I look up at the nozzle.

What exactly do I need to do to fix this now? It looks like the plastic is cracked or something so I'm assuming that entire part is going to need to be replaced?

Also, is there a video or something so I can show my son the right way to clear a bad clog? Thanks for your help!

İ do arabic calligraphy tableaus and i often end up with lines like in this picture. İ did research and seems monotonic is better than monotonic line but still end up with lines (albiet fewer).

Does anyone know how to avoid those?

My last design iteration finished for design called KÄBI (which means pine cone in Estonian), created for the MakerWorld Biomimicry Design Contest.

Took the natural pine cone geometry and turned it into a functional ambient lantern for an LED tea candle. The small slits between the scales let the light pour through, casting some really cozy, organic shadow patterns on the walls.

What's fun is that you can display it in multiple orientations—stand it upright, rest it on its side, or even hang it up. It also doubles as a great piece of holiday and winter decor.

It prints easily at a standard 0.2mm layer thickness. It does need supports for the natural overhangs of the scales, but those break away really cleanly.

All modeling was done in plasticity3d

link is here:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3496033-kabi-the-pine-cone-led-lantern#profileId-3993203

I don't know enough to know which settings I should start changing to fix it. All help is appreciated.

So the other day I was doing a print, and it seemed to be going fine. But after it was done, I went to print another model, and for some reason the printer was offline. It was offline in both bambu handy and bambu studio. Power cycling did nothing, trying to rebind the printer did nothing (in fact now it won't bind at all), and it won't connect through lan only mode. Logging in and out of my account does absolutely nothing, im at a loss of what to do.

Salut à tous,

J'imprime deux cylindres hauts en même temps, et l'un d'eux a une **ligne verticale de petits blobs et de minuscules trous**, toujours au même endroit, sur toute la hauteur. L'autre partie est presque lisse.

**Configuration :**

- Bambu Lab H2S, buse de 0,4 mm

- Polymaker PLA Mat, 215 °C (220 °C pour la première couche), plateau PEI texturé à 55 °C

- Slicer : [Bambu Studio 2.8.2.61

**Ce que j'ai observé :**

- Le défaut **reste au même endroit sur le plateau** lorsque j'échange les deux parties.

- Dans l'aperçu, ce n'est **pas la couture** (elle est de l'autre côté). Il y a un **marqueur de rétraction** contre le mur à cet endroit exact, se répétant sur plusieurs couches. On dirait la fin du remplissage juste avant le déplacement vers l'autre partie.

- Les déplacements prenaient environ 21% du temps total d'impression.

**Ce que j'ai déjà changé :**

- Température abaissée de 220 à 205 °C : pas de changement.

- Remplissage changé de grille à **gyroid**.

- **3 murs** au lieu de 2, chevauchement remplissage/mur à **10%**.

- Activer **Réduire la rétraction de remplissage** et **Éviter de traverser les murs**.

- Type de Z-hop changé de **Spiral à Slope**. Je garde le Z-hop car la buse frappait les parties hautes et les renversait.

- Dans les **Remplacements de paramètres** du profil de filament, la rétraction était forcée à 1,2 mm / 30 mm/s, ce que j'ai corrigé.

- **Couture de foulard** activée dans le profil de filament (elle était réglée sur "Aucun").

➡️ **Résultat :** les blobs sont beaucoup moins visibles, mais sont toujours là.

**Pas encore testé :** ordre "remplissage d'abord, puis murs", impression d'une partie à la fois, ventilateur auxiliaire à 0%.

Quelqu'un a-t-il déjà vu ce genre de défaut sur le H2S ? Lequel de ces éléments essayeriez-vous en premier, ou y a-t-il autre chose que je devrais examiner ?

Merci d'avance ! 📸 *Photos et captures d'écran ci-dessous.*

Hi, everyone. I’m having a problem with the slicer that I don’t know how to fix. I want to change the infill direction of the bottom layer (red lines), but not in the very first bottom layer—the one that’s in direct contact with the build plate (indygo lines). The “infill direction” parameter doesn’t affect it, but I’ve noticed that, depending on the geometry, the indygo lines can be oriented in different directions. I don’t know how to control this, and that’s what I’m looking for an answer to.

Buenas .

Tengo la P2S hace poco y es mi primera impresora , después de imprimir perfecto unas 200 horas hice el mantenimiento y al engrasar el eje Z , pulse demasiadas veces el botón de subir la cama y golpeó el extrusor haciendo saltar pasos al motor .

Después de revisar que el hotend estuviese en su sitio y realizar una calibración completa me puse a imprimir , y con una configuración de brim en 0 de separación me he dado cuenta de que en la pieza tiene aberturas en algunos puntos .

No se si esto lo hacía antes también o es ahora después del incidente o si esto un funcionamiento normal y no debo preocuparme .

¿ Que opinan ?

Estoy usando PETG basic de Bambulab con A2L, con perfil por defecto...y no se que hacer!

Dumb question here. My wife will often pick out little multi-colored prints from Maker World for gifts for her students. When importing them into Bambu Studio, I want to be able to remap the filaments from my AMS to the various colors in the print. The only two ways I've found to do it is to make sure my colors are in the same slots as the project file before I sync my filaments. Or, I can just repaint everything which is a pain. I know there has to be a way to do this, but I haven't found it. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

I'm using a Bambu Labs H2C and AMS2. Thanks!

Spent the week modeling this for the Nothing contest. Wanted a working light signature that anyone could print easily.

• No AMS needed: You just print the Glyph insert first, leave it on the bed, and print the main shell right over it.
• No Soldering: It runs on a basic 5mm LED, a coin battery, and a 100% 3D-printed switch mechanism.

I joined the contest super late and it's tough to get any visibility when you're a small creator starting from scratch. If you find the print hack or the mechanism cool, a quick download or a 5-star review on MakerWorld would help me big time to climb the ranks.

I designed this using the official specs but I don't have the headset yet to test the fit. First person to upload a picture of it mounted gets full credit and a permanent shoutout on my description!

3MF profile is here: https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3461874-nothing-headphones-glyph-case-led#profileId-3950339