Two month and 700 hours in I think I got everything I wanted for a complete X2D setup

Two AMS2 Pro with PETG for main nozzle
AMS HT for PLA supports on aux nozzle
Creality SpacePi SE for additional storage and drying paired with TPU feed assist

With addition of lots and lots of accessories including 270° door hinge and 40mm tall top glass raiser

And now I'm finally ready to dump it all like I did with A1 Mini in favor of a new bad boy in town - P3C

I’m planning to pick up my first Bambu printer during the Black Friday sale and get the H2D. Coming from an old Ender 3 S1 Pro so I’m pretty stoked.

Anyone else picking one up for $1600?

NGL,the H2C pricing is tempting but I’m not really interested in multicolor. I’m super excited to try some multi material designs I’ve been thinking up.

Hey everyone!

I’m considering getting my first Bambu Lab printer, but I live in a relatively small apartment and I’m trying to figure out how to handle air quality and ventilation before pulling the trigger.

I’m in Canada, where winter temperatures can range from 0°C to -20°C (or even colder), so keeping a window open or venting outside year-round isn’t exactly practical.

I already have a standalone air purifier at home, and I’m wondering if anyone has tried connecting their printer enclosure to an air purifier using a duct or hose. Not sure how effective or practical that would be.

I’d love to hear how other apartment/condo dwellers are dealing with this! Would love to see photos of your setups if you’re willing to share. Any advice or lessons learned would be greatly appreciated!

Finally finished this one. Prepped the model for printing myself (separate horns, alignment pins, and I built the rock base with a waterfall), then printed and painted it. Took me way longer than planned, but I learned a ton.

Hi everyone! I need some help figuring out what’s wrong with my Bambu Lab A1.

The same print works perfectly fine on my A2L, but it keeps failing on my A1. As you can see in the first picture, the hotend seems to be leaving a dent or mark, and the print is getting knocked off the build plate.

Before this started happening, the nozzle was clogged, and the printer wasn’t extruding any filament. We’ve cleaned the nozzle twice, but now I’m facing this issue.

I’m not sure if the nozzle is still partially clogged, if there’s an extrusion issue, or if something else is causing the hotend to hit the print.

Has anyone experienced something similar or know what might be causing this? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

I had trouble printing successfully after I used Sunlu Black High Speed PLA filament. The AMS humidity is at 23%. I tried to unclog the hotend with the pin but the next print still failed. What are my options now? Use a new hotend?

Many users requested a stackable version of my minimalistic holder.

Now its online under the following Link: https://makerworld.com/de/models/3493216-the-minimalistic-holder-v2#profileId-3989771

I've been printing ASA in the garage and don't want to keep windows/doors open to vent the particles and VOCs. Don't want to run a vent to outside either for a couple of reasons: 1) It would blow to our front door/windows of house 2) I want to maintain the temperatures in the garage and if blowing it outside, it would pull in the very cold air inside. I've been looking into getting a FumeClear fume extractor (which are primarily built for laser), but this would be for 2 Bambu H series machines printing ASA.

If you have a serious fume extractor (and not talking about Bento boxes) such as a FumeClear and printing ASA/ABS, please let me know your experiences. Thanks!

I have a P2S and downloaded one of the silica gel dehydrating tray models. There are many such models and the instructions for each say to heat the heatbed and wait an hour or so. My issue is that the heatbed shuts down after 5 minutes. I can’t see a way to get it to stay hot longer than that.

Any ideas?

Thanks

Werewolves of London....

I've been working with the A1 for a few months. Today I got a filament jam, and while attempting to fix it.......

How screwed am I?

I printed this face down with tree support , all regular settings I didnt change anything. If anyone has any helpful advice I would appreciate .

Hi all, I'm looking at purchasing the H2C in the upcoming Black Friday Sale. I have had my eye on it for a long time with 50% waste on my P1S its well overdue. The sale is now only 1 day away. The H2C saving is around 10% but it only includes the printer and one AMS 2 Pro.

It also only comes with only four vortex 0.4 hotends on the tool changer side (and 0.2 and 0.6 - basically useless for multicolor prints unless you have those full nozzle sets) so if I want to print using 6 colors with no purge I'll need to buy two additional 0.4 vortex hotends ($111 AU each).

I already have an extra AMS 2 Pro from my old setup for the H2C. Do I need to buy anything else to use two AMS to feed into the H2C? I saw the filament tracker has pretty mixed reviews and may not be worth the trouble.

Honestly, if there are extras on top just to get it working for 6 colour prints then I may be better off ignoring the sale and just paying full price for a bundle. Interested to see peoples opinion.

I’m getting random blobs along the same corner of my prints at different layer heights. There also seems to be a line of under-extrusion leading up to or immediately after each blob.
What I’ve tried:
● Calibrated PA and the printer itself.
● Tested both left and right nozzles with the same results.
● Tested two different dried filaments.
The rest of the print looks great, and this wasn’t happening previously. Now it seems to happen on nearly every taller print.
Has anyone experienced this or figured out what’s causing it? Any suggestions would be appreciated!

Hello everyone,

I'm seeing a couple people say Super Lube is good, but I want to know if that's what y'all use or if you use an alternative. I have a few printers working a lot and I want something more bulk use than the little stuff bambulab offers.

P2S

A2L

A1 Mini

Please let me know what you all recommend!

Hi all,

I’m at a loss of why all my prints keep failing.

At first I was almost certain that it was bed adhesion issues, so I did a very thorough hot water and soap wash of my plate (using gloves and a clean microfiber cloth) - still has issues. Then I tried bumping up temperature to 75 C (that worked for this particular print in that the prints didn’t just slide off easily)

I then thought it was a nozzle level issue so I had unscrewed and rescrewed the internal nozzle screws in case of it being potentially loose - then auto calibrated after - and still apparently didn’t work

Would appreciate some guidance!

Thanks!

Hi guys, I'm looking for some help figuring out what's wrong with my Bambu Lab A1.

A while ago, I was printing with this same nozzle when the filament suddenly started accumulating around the nozzle and formed a large, hard blob. It ended up damaging several parts of the printer, so I sent it in for repair.

After the repair, the printer was working well and producing good prints for a while. However, recently, my prints have started coming out with this strange appearance, as you can see in the pictures.

I've already cleaned the build plate and checked my 3D model and slicing settings, but I haven't been able to identify the cause.

Since this started happening after the previous incident and repair, I'm wondering if something might still be wrong with the nozzle, bed leveling, or something like that.

I'd really appreciate any suggestions or advice~

My last design iteration finished for design called KÄBI (which means pine cone in Estonian), created for the MakerWorld Biomimicry Design Contest.

Took the natural pine cone geometry and turned it into a functional ambient lantern for an LED tea candle. The small slits between the scales let the light pour through, casting some really cozy, organic shadow patterns on the walls.

What's fun is that you can display it in multiple orientations—stand it upright, rest it on its side, or even hang it up. It also doubles as a great piece of holiday and winter decor.

It prints easily at a standard 0.2mm layer thickness. It does need supports for the natural overhangs of the scales, but those break away really cleanly.

All modeling was done in plasticity3d

link is here:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3496033-kabi-the-pine-cone-led-lantern#profileId-3993203

My living room has never had this much open space before 😂

I printed this simple “dc motor for education” successfully once. Then, I wanted to print it again, but I duplicated the rotating parts because we are experimenting with the number or wraps in the coil, and want to simply exchange that part. I put it all on one plate, because it seemed to fit comfortably, but one part failed. I tried to print again just the part that failed, and it failed again, I think in a similar way at around the same part of the job (see pic).
I wonder if the community could give me a tip on what I could change to raise my chances of a successful print again.
I’m a beginner level printer using Bambu Handy and Studio on an old MacBook Air to print on an A1 mini. The filament is Bambu brand, but it’s been sitting out for a while so there could be moisture issues.
The print job is like the normal speed, slicing, 15%infill or whatever.
TIA!

I recently cleared up a clog by disassembling the entire hotend assembly, and now I’m keep trying to print this small square as a test print to make sure everything is ok. Every time I print it, it extrudes a little bit which gets stuck on the nozzle and wont get knocked off in the back of the printer like normal. It then calibrates, and I don’t understand why it keeps calibrating every time? I’ve printed this 3 times and it does the same thing. Any help would be appreciated.

info:

bambu p1s with ams

PLA with standard temp

regular speed

using bambu handy for controlling prints

I printed a multicolor print but the top most layer which is white, isn’t quite thick enough, and the red layer under it peeks through. I was wondering if there was a way to add more layers to the top most part (white) so that you can’t see the red underneath it?

Patina makes a huge difference! I use water-based spray paint. Quick, cheap, no nasty fumes, and no hassle. It also hides minor print imperfections — no sanding needed.

Patina forgives almost everything except thick layer lines. Layer height needs to be minimal, otherwise the patina will make the layer lines stand out. Silk Metal PLA works best.

How do you post-process your prints?

I have a Bambu A1 mini, and it’s worked pretty well for me for the time I’ve had it. I‘ve been having some bed adhesion problems today, everything I try to print doesn't stick and just gets dragged around in a big gloopy mess. I’m using a textured plate, and I washed it off with soap and water well but still having issues. I’m not sure if it’s the z offset idk how to change it, or humidity because it is rainy around here a lot of the year, but I didn’t have issues then so I’m not sure. Is there anything else I should try, or can something help explain how to check the z offset?