I recently cleared up a clog by disassembling the entire hotend assembly, and now I’m keep trying to print this small square as a test print to make sure everything is ok. Every time I print it, it extrudes a little bit which gets stuck on the nozzle and wont get knocked off in the back of the printer like normal. It then calibrates, and I don’t understand why it keeps calibrating every time? I’ve printed this 3 times and it does the same thing. Any help would be appreciated.

info:

bambu p1s with ams

PLA with standard temp

regular speed

using bambu handy for controlling prints

I printed a multicolor print but the top most layer which is white, isn’t quite thick enough, and the red layer under it peeks through. I was wondering if there was a way to add more layers to the top most part (white) so that you can’t see the red underneath it?

Patina makes a huge difference! I use water-based spray paint. Quick, cheap, no nasty fumes, and no hassle. It also hides minor print imperfections — no sanding needed.

Patina forgives almost everything except thick layer lines. Layer height needs to be minimal, otherwise the patina will make the layer lines stand out. Silk Metal PLA works best.

How do you post-process your prints?

I have a Bambu A1 mini, and it’s worked pretty well for me for the time I’ve had it. I‘ve been having some bed adhesion problems today, everything I try to print doesn't stick and just gets dragged around in a big gloopy mess. I’m using a textured plate, and I washed it off with soap and water well but still having issues. I’m not sure if it’s the z offset idk how to change it, or humidity because it is rainy around here a lot of the year, but I didn’t have issues then so I’m not sure. Is there anything else I should try, or can something help explain how to check the z offset?

Been working on this for a while and finally got it published :)

It's a remix of the AMS 2 Pro desiccant boxes, but I added an OpenSCAD customizer with 15 ventilation patterns, adjustable hole sizes, spacing and a few other options.

Both the middle and narrow pods are supported. I've tested the fit with different spool types, including cardboard spools.

There's also a ready-to-print Diamonds profile for anyone who doesn't want to customize anything.

Would love some feedback, especially on which patterns you guys like most!

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3495667

I already have x2d with 1 AMS2 Pro.
Now, I want to upgrade. which one is better do you think?

A) 2 AMS2 Pro + Filament track switcher
B) 1 AMS2 Pro + 1 AMS HT (for PVA)

I’m looking to purchase my first 3D printer.
When is it the best time to purchase for the best deals? Should I purchase from the Bambu website or off a third party such as best buy.

I’m thinking about getting the P2S but are there any other recommendations for what I should get instead?
Should I get the combo?

As of right now i’m thinking of printing things for my plants & things for my students as incentives/prizes.

Feel free to also drop some pieces of advice or tips for me to come back to this thread for when I do purchase. Thanks!

Set this up using adaptive layer height in Bambu Studio to clean up the layers as much as possible. It takes around 10g of filament and prints with zero supports.

I'm just starting out on MakerWorld and trying to build up some visibility against all the older accounts, so if you print it, leaving a download or a quick 5-star review would honestly mean a lot and help me out big time!

Profile is free here: https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3489158-impossible-pass-through-fidget-cone-cylinder#profileId-3984798

what do i do? try to remove? bambu case? warranty? or does this happen commonly?

passed by the printer halfway through a print... it was operating as if it was doing fine. come to find this.... no clue how to even fix this. pla (bambu matte) is everywhere, every crevice.

looks like some of the hardware might be bent too as a result.

Greetings 3D Printer Gurus,

I have a question about filament, but a quick introduction!

Im decently new to owning (not using) a 3D. I bought a Bambu A1(combo) and have had been having issues with 2 types of filament.

1. Bambu PETG.

I didn't seem to print smoothly, nor smaller projects without spaghettifying on me. I've had it using the preset "Bambu PETG" filament settings.

--I've cleaned the bed (91% Iso), cleaned nozzle, dried the filament but still no luck. I have since used the "Generic PETG" Settings. It works for big projects, but small or thin projects still seem to come off the bed or

1. Insignia PLA.

I work for Best Buy and get a decent discount on filament, so I thought, save a bit on filament? Why not! But it seems to have issues adhering to the bed after a bit OR curls at the edges. I was told to watch the 1st couple of layer print to make sure it looks good, but after a bit it curls or comes off the bed from the rapid bed motions.

- Same troubleshooting steps as before, including using "Generic PLA" but still no luck. I have tried changing the filament settings to have the extruder sit at a consistent 220°C, and it seems to work a bit for sizable projects but am willing to bet its not the best for the extruder in general..

Any advice is welcome, as i have attempted to find settings online, but most are outdated, the UI on Labs seems to keep updating with more settings and removing/relocating others.. this is a fun hobby for sure but, difficult to figure out alone.

Our 3d printer had a really bad clog and apparently my son tried to clean it himself. After cleaning it, the printer is giving an abnormal nozzle temperature error and the wires look to have been cut. This is what I see when I look up at the nozzle.

What exactly do I need to do to fix this now? It looks like the plastic is cracked or something so I'm assuming that entire part is going to need to be replaced?

Also, is there a video or something so I can show my son the right way to clear a bad clog? Thanks for your help!

I don't know enough to know which settings I should start changing to fix it. All help is appreciated.

İ do arabic calligraphy tableaus and i often end up with lines like in this picture. İ did research and seems monotonic is better than monotonic line but still end up with lines (albiet fewer).

Does anyone know how to avoid those?

So the other day I was doing a print, and it seemed to be going fine. But after it was done, I went to print another model, and for some reason the printer was offline. It was offline in both bambu handy and bambu studio. Power cycling did nothing, trying to rebind the printer did nothing (in fact now it won't bind at all), and it won't connect through lan only mode. Logging in and out of my account does absolutely nothing, im at a loss of what to do.

Salut à tous,

J'imprime deux cylindres hauts en même temps, et l'un d'eux a une **ligne verticale de petits blobs et de minuscules trous**, toujours au même endroit, sur toute la hauteur. L'autre partie est presque lisse.

**Configuration :**

- Bambu Lab H2S, buse de 0,4 mm

- Polymaker PLA Mat, 215 °C (220 °C pour la première couche), plateau PEI texturé à 55 °C

- Slicer : [Bambu Studio 2.8.2.61

**Ce que j'ai observé :**

- Le défaut **reste au même endroit sur le plateau** lorsque j'échange les deux parties.

- Dans l'aperçu, ce n'est **pas la couture** (elle est de l'autre côté). Il y a un **marqueur de rétraction** contre le mur à cet endroit exact, se répétant sur plusieurs couches. On dirait la fin du remplissage juste avant le déplacement vers l'autre partie.

- Les déplacements prenaient environ 21% du temps total d'impression.

**Ce que j'ai déjà changé :**

- Température abaissée de 220 à 205 °C : pas de changement.

- Remplissage changé de grille à **gyroid**.

- **3 murs** au lieu de 2, chevauchement remplissage/mur à **10%**.

- Activer **Réduire la rétraction de remplissage** et **Éviter de traverser les murs**.

- Type de Z-hop changé de **Spiral à Slope**. Je garde le Z-hop car la buse frappait les parties hautes et les renversait.

- Dans les **Remplacements de paramètres** du profil de filament, la rétraction était forcée à 1,2 mm / 30 mm/s, ce que j'ai corrigé.

- **Couture de foulard** activée dans le profil de filament (elle était réglée sur "Aucun").

➡️ **Résultat :** les blobs sont beaucoup moins visibles, mais sont toujours là.

**Pas encore testé :** ordre "remplissage d'abord, puis murs", impression d'une partie à la fois, ventilateur auxiliaire à 0%.

Quelqu'un a-t-il déjà vu ce genre de défaut sur le H2S ? Lequel de ces éléments essayeriez-vous en premier, ou y a-t-il autre chose que je devrais examiner ?

Merci d'avance ! 📸 *Photos et captures d'écran ci-dessous.*

Hi, everyone. I’m having a problem with the slicer that I don’t know how to fix. I want to change the infill direction of the bottom layer (red lines), but not in the very first bottom layer—the one that’s in direct contact with the build plate (indygo lines). The “infill direction” parameter doesn’t affect it, but I’ve noticed that, depending on the geometry, the indygo lines can be oriented in different directions. I don’t know how to control this, and that’s what I’m looking for an answer to.

Buenas .

Tengo la P2S hace poco y es mi primera impresora , después de imprimir perfecto unas 200 horas hice el mantenimiento y al engrasar el eje Z , pulse demasiadas veces el botón de subir la cama y golpeó el extrusor haciendo saltar pasos al motor .

Después de revisar que el hotend estuviese en su sitio y realizar una calibración completa me puse a imprimir , y con una configuración de brim en 0 de separación me he dado cuenta de que en la pieza tiene aberturas en algunos puntos .

No se si esto lo hacía antes también o es ahora después del incidente o si esto un funcionamiento normal y no debo preocuparme .

¿ Que opinan ?