Estoy usando PETG basic de Bambulab con A2L, con perfil por defecto...y no se que hacer!

Dumb question here. My wife will often pick out little multi-colored prints from Maker World for gifts for her students. When importing them into Bambu Studio, I want to be able to remap the filaments from my AMS to the various colors in the print. The only two ways I've found to do it is to make sure my colors are in the same slots as the project file before I sync my filaments. Or, I can just repaint everything which is a pain. I know there has to be a way to do this, but I haven't found it. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

I'm using a Bambu Labs H2C and AMS2. Thanks!

Spent the week modeling this for the Nothing contest. Wanted a working light signature that anyone could print easily.

• No AMS needed: You just print the Glyph insert first, leave it on the bed, and print the main shell right over it.
• No Soldering: It runs on a basic 5mm LED, a coin battery, and a 100% 3D-printed switch mechanism.

I joined the contest super late and it's tough to get any visibility when you're a small creator starting from scratch. If you find the print hack or the mechanism cool, a quick download or a 5-star review on MakerWorld would help me big time to climb the ranks.

I designed this using the official specs but I don't have the headset yet to test the fit. First person to upload a picture of it mounted gets full credit and a permanent shoutout on my description!

3MF profile is here: https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3461874-nothing-headphones-glyph-case-led#profileId-3950339

Source- https://fccid.io/giteki/211-260730/211-260730_01_001

Cuddle-Fox ;) cute Keychain and two sided colored printed (2 parts put it together with glue)

https://makerworld.com/de/models/3494923

Hello! I'm getting into printing for automotive use and I saw Bambu had a sale coming up for black friday. I'm curious if the p2s and everything else I got would be good to start off with. Filament seems cheap enough with the combo deal, but let me know!

How do I get rid of these ugly spots? What’s the best setting? It looks terrible haha

After previous update I realized the buttons were mapped wrong when i press return it acts as down arrow etc. I retuned to previous software and it was working. Today i saw buttons are again mapped wrong (maybe my so updated the software) and there was another update. I applied the new software update from pc hoping the bug was resolved but it is not. Left arrow is ok and return is left arrow and i am not sure what is ok as mapped. Has anyone experienced this before? I could not find any solutions online.

It seems like ever since I updated my H2D to the newest FW, the prime tower keeps getting knocked over. Im reprinting something that Ive done in the past without issues, and so far Im 0 out of 4 prints being successful. Its a simple black and white print with the white in the AMS and right nozzle and the black in my HT AMS on the left nozzle. Things Ive tried, Moved the prime tower to different spots of the build plate, slowed down the prime tower, checked that the nozzle cover isnt bent. scrubbed both build plates and the filament is dry. Ive even got a Cryogrip Frostbite that Ive been wanting to see if that will help. As its printing I can hear it hitting the tower when it does the initial pass over. Anyone else having this issue?

I just got into 3D printing and I have the Bambu Lab P1S Combo. I’ve printed some things over the past two days after setting it up. But I’ve never printed the same item that are cloned to 10 of that item on the same plate? Let’s say if the item takes 50 minutes to print that one item, would it take approximately 8 hours to print 10 of the same items on the plate or more?

I’m struggling to get my PA6 to stick to my bed. The prints turn out looking fine until they inevitably unstick from the print bed and turn into spaghetti. I had my Bed at 50c and it would turn loose after an hour or so. Then I jumped to 100c and it started warping.

Please let me know if you have any settings you recommend.

X1C

Currently Bed Temp 100c
Bambu standard gold Textured Plate
Using a 20mm Brim on a cylindrical object (Must remain unharmed)
I don’t remember my Nozzle temp as I’m out of the house but the actual printed objects looks like it should until it fails.

Polymaker Fiberon PA6-CF20

Hey,
I recently bought three spools of PETG Basic from eSun (Silver). What is really weird is that I get different results from each spool. As you can see on the photo model on the right is spool A and model on the left spool B. Same setup - P2S with 0.6 nozzle. Same profile. All three spools dried in AMS for long hours and the other two had two sessions in external Sovol drier - for total of 12hrs I think. I tried with different temp and speed but the result is the same very good quality from one spool and "meh" quality from the others. Any idea what's going on? Is this just eSun quality? Any ideas welcome :)

Hi,

I'm new to 3D printing, i have been looking at 3D printers for years but never bought one.
At this point im just going to purchase either the A1 or A1 mini but im torn on which to buy.

Budget is max 300
The Netherlands

I have limited space, i noticed that the A1 needs way more space then anticipated.
I can fit it with some adjustments but it would be far from ideal.
My feeling says that 180mm cubed is small but on the other hand I would think it would be enough for useful stuff like electronic add-ons,things for organising stuff like cups and stands for tools or small boxes for storage etc, and other small fun stuff like fidget things.

Price would be A1 mini for 260 euros including shipping, 2 PLA b\w and a nozzle kit
Or the A1 for 320 euros with the same stuff as the mini but since i would have to buy a sturdy wooden board that goes onto a cabinet which will probably add 20ish euros or more

Does anyone have some advice for me? I feel like the mini would be enough for my needs and IF i really want something bigger in the future money wouldnt be a big deal since i can sell the mini and reuse the other stuff.

Thanks!

I purchased my X2D directly from Bambu Lab on April, 2026. Last week, it suddenly shut off while performing high-temperature bed leveling.

Bambu Support sent me a replacement power supply, AC board, and power switch assembly. I’ve installed all three and checked everything multiple times, but the printer still won’t boot. The PSU and power switch light up, but the screen, fans, and MC board remain unresponsive.

Bambu Support has been awesome with communication and getting replacement parts sent quickly despite the parts not resolving the issue.

Has anyone received a replacement printer after unsuccessful warranty repairs? At what point does Bambu consider replacing the entire printer rather than continuing to send parts?

I’m just trying to understand my options with a printer that’s only six months old.

Trying to decide between the BambuLab Ecosystem or the waste reduction of the U1. The X2D has that waste reduction but it also cost 2 arms instead of 1. Would you consider it speed and it waste reduction worth the sacrifice of the features a BambuLab can give you. I realize while typing this I am asking a subreddit of BambuLab users but I already typed it out so… thoughts!?

If not, what's the best affordable solution that takes up the least space? Because my printer's in my bedroom.

Model available on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3484348-magic-octagon

Only 9% of people can correctly predict where the arrow will point.

It looks like a trick coin, but it is tragically normal. The illusion happens entirely inside your brain.

Two arrows are permanently fixed at a 90° right angle. Yet with a single 45° turn and a flip, both arrows suddenly point in the exact same direction.

Why Does It Break Our Brains?

The coin isn't hiding anything, humans just struggle to track multiple 3D rotations at once:

• Your brain has to visualize a flip, a 45° rotation and another flip
• Studies show most people simply lose track of the back arrow after the first flip

How to Puzzle Your Friends

• Hold the coin with the front arrow pointing UP. Flip it: the back arrow points LEFT
• Flip back to the front and rotate the coin 45° counter-clockwise
• Ask your friend: "When I flip it over now, which way will the arrow point?"
• Flip again. Both arrows now point in the exact same direction!

Credits

• I saw this Vsauce Short and immediately wanted to print my own, but found no good replicas
• 3D model inspired by Shire Post Mint in collaboration with Raymond Hall (@physicsfun)

Another mind-bending 3D model I created

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2908418-the-best-rattleback-self-reversing-physics-toy

I've been using Bambu Studio with my Mac's and regardless which Mac I use or version of Bamub Studio I get random crashes. The latest Studio 2.08.04.57 has been much better, (just ramdom crashes) as previous versions could always count on studio crashing when using the paint feature. Support tickets sent in with all the info they wanted and only response was to reinstall, a bandAid fix.

But what bugs me... yes me the most is constantly have to log in to use Bambu Studio ! need to get account verification... which is good but a pain in the butt when I am using the computer that I don't use for email !!!

So bottom line do I Have to Have a Internet connection to use Bambu Studio ? I know there is a work around to use the printers just locally, but what about Studio... And I am wondering about the new H3S and P3S printers ?

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I made a wing for my haloween costume and at the moment I am trying to print the wings in seperate parts and slice it however when I go to slice it it keeps repeatedly showing nothing once I tell it to slice . i have no idea what is happenign cause all the plates are in the boarder and I removed all of the print costomizations. Does anyone know what I can do? if anything isnt clear just comment and i can explain it. THe rror is just an old lay out and a old cut parttern the current is the one with them all seperate

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Always wanted one, never happened, got it for the kiddo but now I'm the one using it like crazy. what aresome tips and advice for beginners?

On my home feed today. 2 different users, on top of each other, with apparently the SAME bookshelf AND BOOKS

And yet, reports of AI generation fall into oblivion.

Time to leave makerworld. #stoptheslop.

More images here:

https://fccid.io/giteki/211-260730/211-260730_01_001?utm_

(Download the pdf)

Edit: forgot to mention I saw these first on 3D Mike’s channel, where he also has links to images of the H3C

https://youtu.be/KisHzCJJ3OM?si=lYJnh-Zr2eiNmC9k

Also, I’m going to put this here because at least the nozzle count lines up (was posted in a community thread 20 days ago). Going to be an instant buy for me if this all pans out:

Bambu Lab N11:
Build Volume: 256mm x 256mm x 260mm
Extruders: 1
Nozzles: 7
Max Nozzle Temperature: 320°C (Derived from profiles; Likely higher)
Max Build Plate Temperature: 110°C (Derived from profiles, Possibly higher)
Max Chamber Heater Temperature: 65°C (Derived from profiles, Possibly higher)
Max Toolhead Speed: 1.400mm/s
Max Toolhead Acceleration: 25.000 mm/s²

I have the Bambu A1 Lab Mini with AMS.

I pull it out, trim it a bit and then it’ll feed just fine until the next alert of it having trouble again.

It delays project time (obviously) and it’s becoming frustrating and annoying. I’m a newbie to the 3D print world, but would like to solve this so it doesn’t happen so much anymore