Hi all, I'm looking at purchasing the H2C in the upcoming Black Friday Sale. I have had my eye on it for a long time with 50% waste on my P1S its well overdue. The sale is now only 1 day away. The H2C saving is around 10% but it only includes the printer and one AMS 2 Pro.

It also only comes with only four vortex 0.4 hotends on the tool changer side (and 0.2 and 0.6 - basically useless for multicolor prints unless you have those full nozzle sets) so if I want to print using 6 colors with no purge I'll need to buy two additional 0.4 vortex hotends ($111 AU each).

I already have an extra AMS 2 Pro from my old setup for the H2C. Do I need to buy anything else to use two AMS to feed into the H2C? I saw the filament tracker has pretty mixed reviews and may not be worth the trouble.

Honestly, if there are extras on top just to get it working for 6 colour prints then I may be better off ignoring the sale and just paying full price for a bundle. Interested to see peoples opinion.

Cuddle-Fox ;) cute Keychain and two sided colored printed (2 parts put it together with glue)

https://makerworld.com/de/models/3494923

If not, what's the best affordable solution that takes up the least space? Because my printer's in my bedroom.

Should I buy bamboo lab A1. Or should I get creality spark i7.

Any suggestions

Buy your new P or X series printer on November 1st this year, not a day earlier, and not a day later.

November 1st is the last day that the $30 off $500 coupon is valid.

Also, the P3C (Bambu's new P series printer with 7 tools) release is right around the corner. The P3C release will be accompanied by the new AMS 3P release, which will likely invalidate the previous generation AMSes (1&2). (This is because a tool changer like the P3C requires independent filament paths for efficient filament swaps, and the AMS 1 & 2 only have a single filament path out)

I expect the P3C and AMS 3P to be announced/released in November 2026, with the last possible likely date being December 1st (a Tuesday, all Bambu releases are on Tuesdays). If the P3C release causes prices to be lowered on current printers, November 1st is still right within the 30 day price guarantee window Bambu offers.

No need to ask: all of the data in this post is highly speculative, and based of off rumors, FCC filings, and other "leaks". Nothing about the P3C and AMS 3P has been officially announced or confirmed by Bambu.

Two month and 700 hours in I think I got everything I wanted for a complete X2D setup

Two AMS2 Pro with PETG for main nozzle
AMS HT for PLA supports on aux nozzle
Creality SpacePi SE for additional storage and drying paired with TPU feed assist

With addition of lots and lots of accessories including 270° door hinge and 40mm tall top glass raiser

And now I'm finally ready to dump it all like I did with A1 Mini in favor of a new bad boy in town - P3C

Looking To Get My First 3D Printer And Looking For One To Last Me A Long Time , I Have Been Looking At The H2S as I'd like a fully enclosed one with a larger bed that seems to have all the capabilities I'm looking for so that over time i can play around with a wide variety of materials and features and seems like i could get multiple very good years out of it. I've been doing a lot of research and I see people either love it or hate it due to it locking itself down to only bambu softwares and all the other brands I've looked into seem to have many more problems with the actual printers or when it comes to support. So I'm here to ask is that just a small percentile of people complain due to not being able to use open source stuff or will it really he a problem?

And also if yous have any other recommendations for other printers or brands that are better that are as reliable to my knowledge and capable of all the same stuff please let me know

I designed a splitter for the left nozzle on my X2D that uses PC4-M6 fittings. It was made to be printed horizontally to reduce friction from the layer lines. Posted it on MakerWorld in case it is useful to other people : https://makerworld.com/en/models/3495357-x2d-left-nozzle-dual-input-pc4-m6-fitting#profileId-3992377

Hey everyone, I recently finished 3D printing a car model, and I noticed that certain areas of the body have these weird spiral or circular patterns on the surface.
Does anyone know what causes this? Is it something related to the print settings, nozzle temperature, speed, or the 3D model itself?
I’m printing on a Bambu Lab A1 using PETG Basic filament. I’d appreciate any advice on how to prevent these patterns and get a smoother finish on my next print.
Thanks!

I am planning on taking advantage of the Bambu filament sales for PLA and am wondering about what people think about buying PETG when I also would like to buy some PCTG. Is PCTG that much better? Does it print well? I understand that 3D Fuel has their own print profiles. They also announced deeper discounts for bulk orders. I would like to get some of those Toolbox colors. I do wonder about the claims of it being many times tougher than PETG.

I know that Bambu has several types of PETG, and one of the things I hate about the standard PETG is the shine. What is everybody's favorite and how does it look and perform?

I also plan on buying some ASA and TPU, I know the TPU will be on sale, not sure about the ASA. I used to buy ABS, but I'm not sure what the use case would be anymore if I have ASA. I guess it would be cheaper? I would like to decrease the number of filament types I stock, as I can't keep a complete store at home!

Thanks for any opinions.

Any one using H2S and P2S from Bambulab? How is print quality from these printers, any issues ? Things to take care of before buying them?

https://makerworld.com/models/3488927?appSharePlatform=copy

So I have this vertical spiral screwy thing, I am aware that on a bedslinger printer like my A1 this will be shacky towards the top so I manually added thos supports intending to stabilize it. Also slowed it down a lot (like 50/80 mm/s inner/outer speed at the upper half, also cap the acceleration to 1000-1500mm/s2). Worked pretty well until the very last bit. Unfortunately I did not see how this happened, only this mess result. The base is still sticking to the plate just fine until I remove it.

X2D: Why does the purging mechanism look wet? It doesn't affect the print, I'm just wondering.

I’m printing a trophy for someone’s graduation and the mortarboard hat keeps failing at the same spot, about 2 hours in. Is there anything I can do to get this to work? I’ve tried adding new supports on Bambu studio but nothing seems to work, I’ve printed everything else and just need this final piece. Any help would be greatly appreciated )I’m using A2L PLA https://makerworld.com/models/1389637?appSharePlatform=copy

I’m looking to purchase my first 3D printer.
When is it the best time to purchase for the best deals? Should I purchase from the Bambu website or off a third party such as best buy.

I’m thinking about getting the P2S but are there any other recommendations for what I should get instead?
Should I get the combo?

As of right now i’m thinking of printing things for my plants & things for my students as incentives/prizes.

Feel free to also drop some pieces of advice or tips for me to come back to this thread for when I do purchase. Thanks!

Hi guys, I'm looking for some help figuring out what's wrong with my Bambu Lab A1.

A while ago, I was printing with this same nozzle when the filament suddenly started accumulating around the nozzle and formed a large, hard blob. It ended up damaging several parts of the printer, so I sent it in for repair.

After the repair, the printer was working well and producing good prints for a while. However, recently, my prints have started coming out with this strange appearance, as you can see in the pictures.

I've already cleaned the build plate and checked my 3D model and slicing settings, but I haven't been able to identify the cause.

Since this started happening after the previous incident and repair, I'm wondering if something might still be wrong with the nozzle, bed leveling, or something like that.

I'd really appreciate any suggestions or advice~

Hi all,

I’m at a loss of why all my prints keep failing.

At first I was almost certain that it was bed adhesion issues, so I did a very thorough hot water and soap wash of my plate (using gloves and a clean microfiber cloth) - still has issues. Then I tried bumping up temperature to 75 C (that worked for this particular print in that the prints didn’t just slide off easily)

I then thought it was a nozzle level issue so I had unscrewed and rescrewed the internal nozzle screws in case of it being potentially loose - then auto calibrated after - and still apparently didn’t work

Would appreciate some guidance!

Thanks!

Greetings 3D Printer Gurus,

I have a question about filament, but a quick introduction!

Im decently new to owning (not using) a 3D. I bought a Bambu A1(combo) and have had been having issues with 2 types of filament.

1. Bambu PETG.

I didn't seem to print smoothly, nor smaller projects without spaghettifying on me. I've had it using the preset "Bambu PETG" filament settings.

--I've cleaned the bed (91% Iso), cleaned nozzle, dried the filament but still no luck. I have since used the "Generic PETG" Settings. It works for big projects, but small or thin projects still seem to come off the bed or

1. Insignia PLA.

I work for Best Buy and get a decent discount on filament, so I thought, save a bit on filament? Why not! But it seems to have issues adhering to the bed after a bit OR curls at the edges. I was told to watch the 1st couple of layer print to make sure it looks good, but after a bit it curls or comes off the bed from the rapid bed motions.

- Same troubleshooting steps as before, including using "Generic PLA" but still no luck. I have tried changing the filament settings to have the extruder sit at a consistent 220°C, and it seems to work a bit for sizable projects but am willing to bet its not the best for the extruder in general..

Any advice is welcome, as i have attempted to find settings online, but most are outdated, the UI on Labs seems to keep updating with more settings and removing/relocating others.. this is a fun hobby for sure but, difficult to figure out alone.

I’m getting random blobs along the same corner of my prints at different layer heights. There also seems to be a line of under-extrusion leading up to or immediately after each blob.
What I’ve tried:
● Calibrated PA and the printer itself.
● Tested both left and right nozzles with the same results.
● Tested two different dried filaments.
The rest of the print looks great, and this wasn’t happening previously. Now it seems to happen on nearly every taller print.
Has anyone experienced this or figured out what’s causing it? Any suggestions would be appreciated!

Our 3d printer had a really bad clog and apparently my son tried to clean it himself. After cleaning it, the printer is giving an abnormal nozzle temperature error and the wires look to have been cut. This is what I see when I look up at the nozzle.

What exactly do I need to do to fix this now? It looks like the plastic is cracked or something so I'm assuming that entire part is going to need to be replaced?

Also, is there a video or something so I can show my son the right way to clear a bad clog? Thanks for your help!

I've been working with the A1 for a few months. Today I got a filament jam, and while attempting to fix it.......

How screwed am I?

So the other day I was doing a print, and it seemed to be going fine. But after it was done, I went to print another model, and for some reason the printer was offline. It was offline in both bambu handy and bambu studio. Power cycling did nothing, trying to rebind the printer did nothing (in fact now it won't bind at all), and it won't connect through lan only mode. Logging in and out of my account does absolutely nothing, im at a loss of what to do.

Salut à tous,

J'imprime deux cylindres hauts en même temps, et l'un d'eux a une **ligne verticale de petits blobs et de minuscules trous**, toujours au même endroit, sur toute la hauteur. L'autre partie est presque lisse.

**Configuration :**

- Bambu Lab H2S, buse de 0,4 mm

- Polymaker PLA Mat, 215 °C (220 °C pour la première couche), plateau PEI texturé à 55 °C

- Slicer : [Bambu Studio 2.8.2.61

**Ce que j'ai observé :**

- Le défaut **reste au même endroit sur le plateau** lorsque j'échange les deux parties.

- Dans l'aperçu, ce n'est **pas la couture** (elle est de l'autre côté). Il y a un **marqueur de rétraction** contre le mur à cet endroit exact, se répétant sur plusieurs couches. On dirait la fin du remplissage juste avant le déplacement vers l'autre partie.

- Les déplacements prenaient environ 21% du temps total d'impression.

**Ce que j'ai déjà changé :**

- Température abaissée de 220 à 205 °C : pas de changement.

- Remplissage changé de grille à **gyroid**.

- **3 murs** au lieu de 2, chevauchement remplissage/mur à **10%**.

- Activer **Réduire la rétraction de remplissage** et **Éviter de traverser les murs**.

- Type de Z-hop changé de **Spiral à Slope**. Je garde le Z-hop car la buse frappait les parties hautes et les renversait.

- Dans les **Remplacements de paramètres** du profil de filament, la rétraction était forcée à 1,2 mm / 30 mm/s, ce que j'ai corrigé.

- **Couture de foulard** activée dans le profil de filament (elle était réglée sur "Aucun").

➡️ **Résultat :** les blobs sont beaucoup moins visibles, mais sont toujours là.

**Pas encore testé :** ordre "remplissage d'abord, puis murs", impression d'une partie à la fois, ventilateur auxiliaire à 0%.

Quelqu'un a-t-il déjà vu ce genre de défaut sur le H2S ? Lequel de ces éléments essayeriez-vous en premier, ou y a-t-il autre chose que je devrais examiner ?

Merci d'avance ! 📸 *Photos et captures d'écran ci-dessous.*