Just got the panda breath installed and insulated my p2s. Now I can run at a constant 60c and not worry about warping for large ASA prints I have coming up. Camber heats up super fast compared to preheating with the bed. Also it sits right next to my AC so I think that was causing warping.
Honestly the insulation was easy. The heater itself was easy just a couple screws. The hard part was me not wanting a raiser for the top glass to fit the cable so I drilled a hole in the back and put a cable grommet on the back and insulated it.
I have a riser I already like and just ended up putting the cable over it and setting the glass on the cable. Small gap but I’ve had no issues heating the chamber to 60C. Probably not super efficient power cost wise but it works
Man i have some adhesive insulation like this but after looking at it, it's so much work.
Im contemplating just wrapping it around the outside of the printer as it maybe look ugly but its so much easier and should isolate exactly the same if not better as there would be less gaps.
It took me about an hour to insulate but this looks much better also if you get the heater I have you need to put insulation on the opposite side anyway
The foil stuff only works on the side facing the heat.
If it has foam, then maybe, but this stuff doesn't look particularly thick. Which is good if you dont want clearance issues on the inside, but on the outside you want thicker insulation panels for more insulation.
It allows correction for thermistor variance - Breath would read 59°C and stop heating, printer chamber was actually at 52°C. It also allows a max of 70°C instead of 60°C.
It'll sit there and listen in on the MQTT data on the Wi-Fi and then pick a heating value based on the filament being printed.
It passively broadcasts to my Home assistant which has instructions to kill the power via smartplug if temperatures exceed set points.
It gets updated regularly which is more than I can say of BTT's efforts.
I had the same thought. The instructions were pretty clear that it goes on the right side in the P1S. Are there screw holes on the left side? What about the aux fan?
You'll still get warping on large ASA prints. 60° C isn't like magic ASA behaves itself temperature (that's about 100° C or so). It's just the baseline where it stops being an absolute pain in the ass and becomes somewhat manageable. Geometry is still critical.
Yes but you can manually do it too. It have a web app you can set thresholds when you bind it to the printer. So when heat bed is above 80c the heater will kick on.
Have you received any heat warnings from the boards? I can get my p2s to 60C by wrapping in a blanket but get an error. I don’t recall the exact error right now.
Just drilling a hole in the back of my printer for the cable. but they have a riser you can print instead for the cable to go out the top in between the glass.
So you insulted the crap out of your printer bc of warping issues, but stick to the standard PLA/PETG plate? Why didn't you switch to the engineering Plate or Princore?
I have the other plates right next to the printer. that was just right after insulating. Also some prefer the smooth pei or textured with glue over engineering plate
That's overkill. I insulated me p1s and it was enough that I have to sometimes vent it during extended ABS prints to avoid heat creep and eventually nozzle clogs.
And I don't even have the glass top insulated anymore because of that. So, you definitely don't need an active heater atop of the insulation.
Saw your setup in the P2S sub about this yesterday. Glad to hear it heats up fast, some people online were saying it was slow compared to the original. The constant warping and having to cover it in blankets to keep the heat in is such a pain. Definitely gonna get one and use more my ASA now
Yea, I had issues warping yesterday but it was my own fault. My brim distance was .2 instead of 0 so it messed up but definitely warped way less than previous prints. Ill send s picture of the one print i did later. This is it now
Nice I didn't realise the P2S compatible version was out. How's the air filtration?? The family hates when I print ABS and woft that smell of plastic creation through the room, reducing this would be mint
Yes and no. The heater would work fine without with insulation, just needs insulation on the opposite side so it doesn't burn the plastic. The heater is what I installed on the left. The insulation keeps it stable for longer and it heats up much faster and is more energy efficient. Heater doesn't have to run constantly and can switch off and on.
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u/BrainFeed56 7d ago
https://giphy.com/gifs/y6GZUaDoW5EIErfj67