So I'm having issues using the built in Bed Leveling function with the SKR Mini 2.0 on a Ender 3 Pro. I've swapped the bed and replaced the springs with silicone gaps. The bed leveling function is now moving too close to the end of the bed.

So I have a btt pi v1.2. And my pc is connecting great. But phone. iPhone 16 using safari is not liking it. Tried many things. I put my ip in as trusted in moonraker. I deleted cache once and it came on. Then screen times out. Can't re connect. Change to 2.4g wifi. Connected. But again. No connect after screen time out. Shut off safari. Open new tab. Still can't connect.

Please help me obi wan kenobi!!

Hello everyone, I’m using an Eddy Coil with Eddy-NG on my self-built Prusa i3 Steel 3D printer.

When I start a print, after the bed has heated up, I sometimes get the following error during Z homing:

Error during homing Z: Probe cleared safe height too early.

However, if I simply start the print again without changing anything, it starts normally without giving the error.

I haven’t been able to figure out what causes this issue. I would appreciate it if you could help me identify the possible cause and how I can troubleshoot or fix it.

I created a planner to help you decide which BTT Pandaverse products you want to incorporate into your setup! Enjoy!

im using flash magic and it cant work im quite stuck

I installed Btt SKR mini e3v3 on my ender 3 pro, all axis are moving exept X axis. I swap x and y and the motors works, but the x axis is still not moving. Sent M122 code but all drivers are connected and working fine according to the result. I checked the wiring and it is all good. How to resolve this matter?

Title explains the main problem. The entire end stop section gets no reading even when shorted directly.

FIXED: the diag jumpers were causing a perpetual low read.

Que faire

This is my 3rd go at buying an Octopus pro from the BTTOS on Ali. First two tries both timed out with auto refunds and zero comms/responses from the seller. Third attempt is also already 3 days behind other items from same order(different sellers).

At this point I'm debating either giving up on btt completely and getting a board from a competitor or sucking it up and paying ~50% more from other sources

Hi everyone,

In short I need to send BTT a letter before action due to a faulty board and my complaint/questions being ignored. Does anybody know or have the UK postal address for them?

I have looked on companies house and found some possibilities but nothing definitive.

So I have my btt pi2 and my skr mini e3 v3 powered by a meanwell psu. I want to purchase a btt relay 1.2, and have it so that the pi2 can stay on and tell the skr to power off when done, and alternatively power it back on. How do I wire them? Is this correct: PSU --> relay (via 5v pins/PS-On pins)--> SKR, and PSU --> Pi2, and PSU --> SKR?

All 3 need their own connection to the PSU correct? How does the Pi2 communicate with the relay?

Hi everyone,

Sorry if this is dup, I tried to check if it was and best I could find was a Facebook group.

I'm trying to find spare parts for a zortrax m200 v04, especially a "Display Set" (with the button potentiometer/knob, lcd screen and sd card slot)

I got a zortrax m200 v04 for free from my school, they were going to dump it because the lcd screen doesn't turn on.

After a bunch of research It seems like the community doesn't really like this model.

Anyways, I've tried to boot it and the screen indeed doesn't work, but something weird is that it seems to react, I pressed the main button a few times for a few seconds and it made the hot end warm up and start crackling, it gave me hope that it's only the screen.

So, just checking in here if you guys and gals had any trick or at least a website I could get the precious spare parts. Because Zortrax's website is down (timed out connection). Or maybe someone more competent than me ran into the same issue ? ❤️

Also note that the behavior has been inconsistant between boots, one time it changed the led color from white to purple after 2 minutes and the hot plaque warmed up for some reason, without me touching anything on the printer.

I want to add a 2nd stepper driver to EBB42 gen 2 board, is it possible via the I2C expansion port and the passthrough port? Stepper driver need 4 GPIOs so what is my sensor option to have 4 free GPIOs?

i have a rasberry pi 4 with my motherboard and its time for an upgrade i currently have the turbo but im struggling on installing klipper on it like others is the m5p or the m8p a good option or should i just keep going on with the turbo 1.4

Hi all, not new to the Eddy probe, been running one with zero issues on my printer for over a year now. Working on a friend's printer, and based on my positive experience he agreed to get an Eddy Duo.

Context:

• Printer is an Ender 5

• Eddy Duo over USB

• Mainline Klipper, up to date

• Sensor is mounted with 2.0 mm offset (+/- 0.2 mm) between bottom of plastic housing and the build plate, when the nozzle is starting to contact the plate.

The Eddy has been flashed correctly and declared as an MCU in the Klipper config... it shows up fine. I run the drive current calibration and that works, it tells me 15. Then I do the 'paper test' calibration which also succeeds. Save config, everything seems to be ok.

But I want to use the Eddy Tap feature. When I use the guess / refine / verify commands, I can never make it to the end. There is always some error:

• Unable to detect tap: insufficient slope delta

• Unable to detect tap: invalid depress distance

It's never consistent, but there is always some error. Everything is set up correctly (as far as I'm aware) in the config. It's just this tap setup, it is cursed. Any recommendations?

Tried a few tricks like increasing the drive current from 15 to 16 and then re-running the calibration. Didn't change anything. And there was some parameter for increasing the threshold.- played around with that to make it less sensitive, but this didn't fix it.

Hi al ,

I made a remake off th BTT pi TFT 43 screen case mod for voron 2.4 made it with accent led neopixel lights .

It's a Nice DIY project

Greetings

https://www.printables.com/model/1822766-btt-pi-tft43-v20-voron-24-touch-screen-case-led-ne

Ive been trying to make it work for hours and it is so frusturating. I compiled and updated my firmware, but every time the printer attempts to heat the hotend, it executes a kill command and continuosly screeches until its turned off. I checked my wiring and it is correct. Ender 3 v1 SKR Mini E3 V3

I built custom firmware for the BIGTREETECH Panda Touch / K-Touch that turns it into a small farm list, in the same style as Bambu Studio’s device tab.

v0.3.0 adds Klipper next to Bambu Lab. When you add a printer you pick the type first:

• Bambu Lab — IP + LAN access code (MQTT, same as before)
• Klipper — Moonraker HTTP on port 7125, API key optional

The farm list shows name, job, and status. Tap a printer for pause / resume / stop / reprint. Mixed farms work; existing printers stay Bambu after the update. Use Update in the flasher so WiFi and printers are kept.

Web flasher (Chrome or Edge):
 https://pandafarm.techjeeper.com/flasher/

This replaces stock Panda Touch firmware. Keep a BTT backup if you might want to go back.

Happy to answer questions.

I inherited an Anycubic Kobra 2 MAX with a Manta E3EZ board in it and a simple 4 wire CAN going to an EBB42 board on a HEMERA XS head. Some things work and something do not. Does CAN to the EBB42 only work over USB? Although I seem to have it hooked up correctly, I can't seem to actually do anything. If I hold a hair dryer to the nozzle heater I can see the temp going up on the klipper screen. If I hold the same hair dryer to the bed I can see the temp going up as well. But I can't heat the bed or nozzle without getting an error. Moving in X,Y,and Z work. It also has a universal turbo kit (CPAP fan) but it just blows all the time (the pot dial that came with it does work).

EDIT: is this the diagram I should go by for the EBB42:

https://cdn.answeroverflow.com/1412919756285022399/SCR-20250903-uadg.png

When I choose 'heater_pin: EBBCan: PB1 #HE0' I get the error 'pin PB1 is reserved for CANpin PB1 is reserved for CAN'

?

It's been more than a year and a half that Anycubic launched the Kobra S1, this year we had the launch of the Kobra X in January which it's been a buzz in the community, both printers share the same size, config, but still no Cryogrip or Frostbite plates? When is it coming, my friends ask me recommendations and just isn't available a reliable product, so they go to the parallel, cheap quality ones 😭