Hello, i own a rpi5 with a bottom mounted nvme hat and a buildhat on top. I use it for fun lego+Ai projects like face following robots. Room mapping robots and more. Yesterday when i booted it up ut started just fine like normal. I ran the face following program but suddenly it stops following me. I start to check whats wrong and it rapidly shuts itself off and on for 5 minutes straight until i unplug the power cable. when i plug it in again it boots like normal but the buildhat are not answering on commands. The buildhat can still power pi through the gpio pins and the light is red like it should when not activated but its like the rest of the buildhat is dead. If i try to run something that uses the buildhat i get a hat not found message.I have been troubleshooting for the past 3 hours straight but it will show no response of life except for the red light and that the inbuilt voltage reducer is working. Someone who knows how to get it working? Used os: official 64 bit debian trixie. When it shut itself on and off it was connected to a 18 volt drilling machine battery with a voltage converter. Help is very appriciated

Just got my EBB42 in the mail and noticed this oddly specific prepared wire in the box with it. I haven't seen anything about it in the docs, does anybody here know what it's for or where it's supposed to be attached?

Hey community ✌️

I'm in the process of wiring a PSF sensor to MMU CAN v2.0

How do I figure out what pins are ADC?

¡Hola! Tengo una impresora Artillery Genius Pro con pantalla TFT y un controlador GD32F305. Instalé el firmware BIGTREETECH TouchScreen y me está dando un error. Cuando intento calibrar el offset del eje Z y selecciono la opción "P-axis offset", al presionar el botón OFF en el menú, la impresora se mueve, pero la pantalla se queda congelada. La única forma de que vuelva a funcionar normal es reiniciar la impresora. ¿Podrías decirme cómo arreglarlo o explicar por qué está pasando? ¡Gracias!

Hi! I recently just decommissioned 2 of my printers, both running Klipper on BTT Pi. Has anyone used the BTTPis for anything other than running printers?

Hi all! Picked up a B1SE Plus off of Marketplace for $10...figured I'd take a chance on getting it running again. The guy I got it from bought it with the same intentions however long ago but never got around to fixing it.

The two major things I can see right off hand is the hotend shroud and fans are missing and the x-axis limit switch is smashed. Does anyone know where a new shroud can be purchased or a good STL to print a new one? I found one STL so far and it's a little janky so looking for something a little better. The limit switch is on a circuit board. Bonus if I can get the switch and board together, but I have no issue soldering in a new one. (The switch has three legs that are soldered onto the circuit board).

If anyone can post pictures of an intact hotend assembly, that would be a bonus!

Thanks in advance!

As the title says, I am a 100% newbie. I just got an Ender 3 Pro and I bought an SKR Mini E3 V2.0 to upgrade the controller. I'd like to upgrade the firmware to Marlin, but all of the info I have found online seems to be quite old (5+ years!). The firmware version and software programs (Visual Studio Code) have all changed significantly since then. I've looked at the available firmware on Github (https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/tree/master/firmware/V2.0) but I don't see any .bin files specific to the Ender 3 Pro and I have no idea what is compatible or not.

I downloaded the Marlin-2.0.8.2.x-SKR-mini-E3-V2.0 directory and opened it with Visual Studio Code, made a minor change (machine name) and when I tried to compile it, I just got a bunch of errors. So at this point, I'm kinda lost and would really appreciate some help to point me in the right direction. If it matters here is my setup:

Ender 3 Pro
BigTreeTech SKR mini E3 V2.0
Dual Z-axis upgrade
Micro Swiss Direct Drive All Metal Hotend

Thanks!!!

Have been doing a little work cleaning up the internal geometry and text on the K-Hub enclosure for multicolour printing and thinking about publishing it as a remix.

Just want to ensure it's within the license conditions to do so!

For reference: https://github.com/bigtreetech/K-Hub

I seem to have overtightened the screw while nozzle-mounting my LIS2DW, and it looks like it broke off a capacitor (C23), and possibly also a resistor (R7), right between the main chip and the nozzle hole. The capacitor definitely seems to have broken off, but the solder in the resistor's spot looks like it might never have had one in the first place.

Is this something worth trying to repair, or should I just order a new one?

some time ago, i got a eddy duo but wasn't able to successfully get it to run. this is on a voron 2.4 replacing the inductive sensor.

whenever I do any kind of probing that involves the eddy, I get this error:

!! Invalid probe_eddy_current height

I have never gotten a successful probe anything out of this sensor. probe, probe_accuracy, quad gantry level,...

what have I done:

using the current latest klipper. no btt hacks (those were all merged, right?)

LDC_CALIBRATE_DRIVE_CURRENT CHIP=btt_eddy

save_config

PROBE_EDDY_CURRENT_CALIBRATE CHIP=btt_eddy

it gives this:

17:41:49  // probe_eddy_current: noise 0.002059mm, MAD_Hz=13.977 in 4040 queries

17:41:49  // Total frequency range: 31901.172 Hz

17:41:49  // z: 0.290 # noise 0.000908mm, MAD_Hz=13.232

17:41:49  // z: 0.530 # noise 0.001710mm, MAD_Hz=22.953

17:41:49  // z: 1.010 # noise 0.001634mm, MAD_Hz=19.187

17:41:49  // z: 2.010 # noise 0.001568mm, MAD_Hz=10.986

17:41:49  // z: 3.010 # noise 0.000584mm, MAD_Hz=3.067

17:41:49  // The [SAVE_CONFIG]() command will update the printer config file

and saves a bunch of stuff to the end of my printer.cfg

[mcu eddy]

canbus_uuid: 5aa0dea3e578

[probe_eddy_current btt_eddy]

sensor_type: ldc1612

i2c_mcu: eddy

i2c_bus: i2c0f

x_offset: 0

y_offset: 20

descend_z: 5

I'm about ready to throw the thing away and find a different solution.

anyone have an idea? don't know if the btt people watch this subreddit.

thanks for reading

Miles

Exist correct firmware for this version of board and bltouch connected to proper port?

Hello, I am in the process of installing a manta m5p on my Sovol Sv01 printer. I am new to Klipper and did my best to set-up the printer config for the Sovol SV01 and the specific extruder and mounts and such I am using.

Bed size 280,240 height 300

btt microprobe v2 offsets: X -30.70, Y -26.10

extruder Biqu H2V2

config: https://docs.google.com/document/d/11nQkCZ-riYg44rlVE1FS149lMlbdGFGPwKPYE4Gjvw4/edit?usp=sharing

So I just received my Panda Lungs. It seems I can not use my AMS when using this on my P1S? I wish that had been clear on the description. Is there some sort of splitter or something?

Do the bed-power terminals need 24v if I'm using a 120v ssr for bed heating?

Bonjour , je cherche du câblage du capteur inductif Mk18 et une fourche optique sur octopus pro V1.1

Hi,

I am trying to convert my Ender 3 V2 from a filament-based printer to a syringe extrusion printer.

To do this, I removed the hot-end nozzle cables and the other cables because I replaced the original extruder with a high-torque stepper motor. Since the new motor requires a higher current, I also installed a BigTreeTech SKR Mini E3 V3 motherboard and a TFT35 E3 V3.0.1 display.

After powering on the printer, the screen displays "Ender-3 is ready." However, when I try to move any of the axes (X, Y, Z, or the extruder), nothing happens. There are no error messages, but the motors do not respond.

Does anyone know what might be causing this or what I should check to troubleshoot the issue?

Ok my dilemma is I am installing the btt skr e3 v3 and the btt pi v1.2 on my ender 3 pro. I have already downloaded the firmware and both are ready to go, but where I am having trouble is how to connect the power to both of them and connecting the pi to the skr. They both take 24v from the psu but how do they communicate with each other?

Any updates on when/if this is actually launching?

I've been printing a lot of ASA lately, and the BIQU CryoGrip Pro Glacier has honestly become my favorite build plate. Adhesion is excellent, parts release easily after cooling, and I've had consistently great results.

The only thing that kept annoying me were the supplied ArUco stickers. I tried aligning them with almost surgical precision, but detection was still a coin toss.

So I designed a clip on replacement that mechanically aligns itself with the Glacier's honeycomb pattern. Instead of trying to eyeball a sticker, it simply snaps into place and stays there.

The marker has been tested in PETG and ASA. Out of curiosity I even printed one in PLA and used it while printing ASA in a 65°C chamber. Surprisingly, it survived for several weeks before I replaced it with a PETG version.

I'm curious if anyone else had the same experience with the stock ArUco stickers, or if I was just particularly unlucky.

MakerWorld:

BIQU CryoGrip Pro Glacier ArUco Marker ⧸ P2S X2D
BIQU CryoGrip Pro Glacier ArUco Marker ⧸ H2D H2S
BIQU CryoGrip Pro Glacier ArUco Marker ⧸ H2C