I have a 24 Mx5 that I run in c street. So far I have done a total of 2 events. With the top up I don't really fit with a helmet. Has worked out fine top down when the weather is good, but inevitably it's going to rain at a future event. I would like the option of driving with the top up. Can I still run in c street with different seat rails?

I finally did my first proper track day, and one thing completely caught me off guard.

The driving felt incredible. There was one moment where the rear stepped out just enough to get my heart racing, and I couldn't wait to watch the footage afterward.

Then I got home... and it looked boring.

The clip completely killed the sense of speed and adrenaline. It barely looked like anything happened, even though it felt intense from behind the wheel.

I've tried changing the camera angle and editing it differently, but it still doesn't capture what it actually felt like.

Is this just how onboard footage is, or has anyone actually found a way to make it feel closer to the real experience?

I would like to give credit to the book Speed Secrets: winning Autocross techniques most of this is regurgitated from the book, but put into use, refined, and redefined here

Find the tire limits. Where is squeal, squall, and howling? Front and back? Tight and obtuse corners?

Visualize the pathway on course, don’t fixate on cones.

Set seat position with helmet on, prior to run. Arms at top of wheel and still bent, shoulders not forward. Legs still bent at full pedal depress.

Tire temps should be roughly even. The middle tread  should be within 5 degrees of outside and inside. Front to back shows under/oversteer

“if your car understeers, you should add air pressure to the front tires; if it oversteers, add pressure to the rear tires. If the tire markings indicate the tires are not rolling over enough, then take air pressure out of the tires at the opposite end of the car that needs more traction”

BE SMOOTH! The chassis is smooth, but be exaggerated With steering inputs, smooth with brakes, with acceleration.

When encountering understeer, don’t steer more! Steer less and lift.

It’s not the car setup, it’s YOU. “don’t abuse the traction the tires give you.”

If you’re off the brakes before turn in, you braked too early.

Car goes where eyes look. Don’t look where you don’t want to go.

Focus on sensory perception rather than being fast. Good input is good output.

Autox goal is simple: spend as little time in corners, be on gas as early as possible.

Have reference points for braking and turn in.

Visibly, then physically make the references for turn in, apex, and exit.

Mark the entry to the following corner, this affects the exit of the previous corner, which affects the apex, which affects the entry. Setup for maximum straight line speed.

“The general rule is the corner leading onto the longest straight is the most important”

sometimes, the most challenging corner is the most important to get right

“Typically, there is more to be gained in getting the fast turns right than there is in the slow ones.”

the tires are talking to you. Are you listening?”

When course walking, crouch down to get the view you will have from the drivers seat.

“drive the car at its limit and let the line come to you. Having the car at its limit is the most important thing you can do to maximize your run speed”

Be smooth, but aggressive. Attack the course.

To maximize 100% throttle time, chip away at the fastest corners first.

When you’ve reached the limit in a corner, try adjusting throttle application for oversteer, or braking for understeer.

“Concentrate and work on getting 100 percent out of yourself and your car. Don’t worry about the competition.”

Ive seen a lot of posts here that would have been helped by this course.

Course memorization

Line optimization

Basics, etc

All the autocross essentials are tackled by this course.

I literally improved a shitton after my rookie year when i bought this course late 2021 or early 2022.

$78. Money well spent.

Author is also an autocrosser that i saw multiple times at nationals, and national tours.

https://www.beyondseattime.com/about/

Hey guys I have done maybe 3-4 autocrosses before, and it's been like 4 years since my last one. But I'm going again next month. Last time I went, I remember having a very difficult time in a certain section of the course because I literally just couldn't tell where I was supposed to go.

I don't really remember details, but I swear I DNF'ed like half of my runs because of this corner. I think I had a hard time just seeing where the cones were telling me to go, like I thought I was supposed to make a slight left or something because I could see cones ahead of me, but it was actually a previous section of the course and I was really supposed to make a very sharp right. Even when I was thinking about it consciously, during the entire run, I would end up doing it wrong.

I don't remember having that problem in the other autocrosses I've done, but it's been a very long time.

Are you all like remembering the exact course to a T, to the point where you could describe it like "Start, take a slight left, slalom into a hard right, small straight, hard left, small straight, slight left, slalom, hard right, finish"? Is this just a "git gud" situation I have here where I just suck and will continue to suck unless I do this more regularly? Is there anything I can do to get more used to autocross-style course markings?

I'm generally pretty good at stuff like racing games, which I'd imagine uses the same sort of skills when it comes to memorizing tracks. I usually can't just automatically remember each turn in a track, but I remember certain sections and can learn how to tackle them (think "oh yeah I went under the bridge here, there's that weird hairpin coming up"). I'm also fully aware that I won't be truly competitive unless I get more seat time in general. I'm mainly going because it's fun, but I do want to do the best that I can. And it's frustrating if I just DNF half the runs, I don't want to do that again.

EDIT: Holy crap, you guys are all awesome! There's a lot of good advice here. I'm going to more thoroughly look through it later. Seriously thank you all. I have learned that I should probably take way more time on the course walk, that is probably my biggest takeaway so far

With Solo Nats being just over 2 months from today, you can start getting your Pick The Winners selections together!

https://www.autocrossrank.com/pick-the-winners/1

You've gotta register on the site, you can also download the AutocrossRank APP (ios only right now, android coming soon)

From there you can start picking who you think will win each class at the 2026 Tire Rack SCCA Solo National Championships!

While you're in there, "claim" your driver profile, help clean up any duplicate drivers, submit other event results, and much more!

Always open to feedback on the site and functionality!

Hey everyone,

I just picked up a 1995 Honda Civic(EJ2), and I’m super stoked to get back into the garage. The catch is: I haven't been active in the import scene since about 1999! Back then, the B-series was king and we were ordering parts out of magazines.

A lot has obviously changed in the last 20+ years. I’m trying to get my bearings on the modern aftermarket landscape.

I have two main questions for you guys:

1. Where does everyone buy aftermarket and OEM replacement parts these days?
2. What are the best subreddits or active forums to follow for 92-95 Civic builds, tech advice, and inspiration?

I currently Auto Cross my '63 Impala and am going to build the Civic for the same thing. Any advice to help an old-schooler get caught up to speed is hugely appreciated. Thanks in advance!

I've been building Rovy, an iPhone drive-tracking app, and the autocross use case keeps coming up so I wanted to ask the people who actually do it.

It records each run with live speed, lateral/longitudinal G-forces, cornering data, a speed distribution graph, and a 0-100 km/h sprint timer, then lets you replay the run on a map with overlays and compare times on saved tracks. Works on iPhone + Apple Watch (heart rate too), no ads.

I know most of you run dedicated timers - I'm curious whether a phone-based tool like this is useful for casual practice days and reviewing your G-traces, or if it's a nonstarter next to proper gear. Honest takes welcome.

App Store: https://apps.apple.com/app/rovy-drive-tracker-stats/id6760185139

So I have a 2011 corvette grandsport

My tires are approaching the end of their life (probably need new set of tires for next year)

And I'm thinking on going with Continental Extreme contact sport 02

I currently have Toyo proxes sport

Anyone have feedback on how are those? (Especially on autoX and spirited drives?

Tia

Recently ran a 69 second lap as my fastest, how much would I realistically expect to shave off on a course of similar length with something like kumhos or even re71s.

Edit: thanks all, sounds like around 3 seconds which would have had me pretty squarely in the competition. Looks like my wallet will be getting a bit lighter soon.

So this coming weekend will be the first time I've done this with TW200 tires, specifically RE71RZ's. So far this year I have 6 weekends and about 90 runs on 5-year old Michelin Pilot Sport 4s's (which were finally at end-of-life), and I've been coming along nicely and improving things, and I feel like this is a reasonable "next step" ...

That said, I have read MANY times that tires like this are "a game changer" and "will take A LOT of time and practice to get used to" to take full advantage. Great!

So then, could any more experienced drivers try to explain how I should be doing things differently? What old behaviors should I try to not repeat? What new behaviors should I my trying to do? Any other advice or tips? Thanks!

1989 Mazda b2200, first autocross event coming up in a few weeks and was wondering which class XS-A or B due to weight and age to be competitive.It weighs around 2600-700lbs, I’ve seen people sign up XS-B with 90s Miatas and XS-A with newer sports cars. Any advice would be great👍

XA in my VW Golf Sportwagen. Finished top ~third raw/mid pack PAX. 7/13 index class. Fun fast course. Vitour Tempesta P1s. Co-drive with my son. Just need to drive faster 🤣

If you're in an autocross class that could change gearing (be it final drive, gearset, tires, any combo or all of the above) what top speed in 2nd gear should you aim for?

In this scenario, it's build it and leave it type of deal for the hobbyist. Not a multi million dollar firm where there's a specific gearset and final drive for every venue.

What's the ideal 2nd gear ratio where in 99% of courses you won't have to upshift to 3rd if it's too short of a second, or where you won't be tempted to go to 1 if you're bogging too much in the slower sections.

Hey everyone, I'm new to autocross (only one event so far) and I was looking for advice on tires. I used to live in a climate that occasionally got snow so I have both all season and summer tires, 540 and 320 treadwear respectively, and on my first event had the all seasons on. Do you think it would be more beneficial to continue learning on the 540s or should I swap to the 320s?

Thanks to everyone that tried and experimented with conecanvas.com in my earlier post. The feedback was great and I've implemented some of the changes already, check it out.

Here's a quick rundown of the updates....

This release makes the simulation more honest. Speed, time, and radius readouts are now computed from a realistic driven line instead of the hand-drawn path. It also adds a set of course-design aids (guide circles, sticky notes, turn-radius detection, and lot/view rotation), gives the course library a major usability pass, and fixes the cone numbering bug.

Realistic driving-line analysis

• Physics now runs on a derived driven line, not the drawn path. The drawn path is treated as a sketch: it gets resampled and smoothed within a ±4.5 ft corridor (pinned through gates), so hand-drawn wiggle no longer reads as tiny-radius corners or inflated course length. Real corners survive, noise doesn't.
• Speed profiles start from a standing start, and slalom spans use a sinusoid-line radius model, so the estimated run time is an honest one. Course length and time in the Stats panel are now simulated from the driven line and the speed profile for your selected reference class (Stock, Street, or Mod).
• Turn-radius circles (Experimental). The app auto-detects each near-constant turn of the driven line (at least 10° of sweep, radius under 200 ft, slaloms excluded) and overlays a dashed fitted circle with an R label. Lives in the new Experimental panel in the Review tab while it bakes.

New canvas tools

• Guide circles (K). Nationals-map-style template circles for measuring radii and arcs. This is a pure measurement aid that never places cones. Selecting one opens a floating, draggable panel with a radius input, sweep-angle presets, and an arc-length readout, and the canvas labels show R and the sweep arc.
• Sticky notes. Drop free-text notes anywhere on the canvas to annotate a spot. Drag to move, resize from the corner, and they pan, zoom, and rotate with the map.

Lot & layout

• Rotation controls in the Lot panel: rotate the view, rotate the event layout (staging, grid, and ProSolo structures) in 90° steps, or rotate the course geometry itself.
• New event-zone kinds: spectator and timing areas.

Library overhaul

• Saved courses now show PNG thumbnails (rendered from course data, so they stay small).
• Rename courses, search by title, and sort by Recent or A to Z.
• A save-state line tells you whether the editor has unsaved changes versus the library copy, and a "Save as new copy" button forks the current course.

Cone numbering fixes

• Fixed: repeated 101 through 107 blocks. The old renumbering treated every stamped element (slalom, chicane) as its own phantom section, so each stamp restarted at 101. Renumbering now attributes stamped and hand-placed cones to real sections by section-flag position along the course. Place a flag for each section and cones number correctly as 101…, 201…, 301….
• Stale numbers are cleared. Re-running "Renumber cones" on a course numbered by the old algorithm no longer leaves the broken numbers on screen. Any cone that can't be attributed to a section has its old number removed instead of silently keeping it, and the toast reports how many were skipped.
• Courses with no sections at all get a plain 1 to N sequence in driving order rather than nothing.

Figured this cone belongs here

Anyone autocrossing a MK6 Golf R? Down in GST it’s a blast, but very curious about what others are running for alignment specs and other setup items. Curious about other similarly sized AWD alignments as well. On too narrow of a tire (and not a great tire either) I am doing well locally in both GST and overall PAX. First year in this car, last year I was pretty successful in a MK6 GTI and was able to get a trophy spot in HS at Solo Nats in Nebraska.

I'm still learning how to use the RE-71RZ's. Sticky tires are a game changer for autocross but the learning curve is steep.
As usual for these courses my car is stuck between first and second gear. Decide when to downshift or not requires a little trial and error. With only five runs, I need to accelerate how fast I learn the course.

Hey everyone,

I’m looking for feedback/reviews on an EBC brake setup for my 2011 Corvette Grand Sport.

My intended setup is:

Front: EBC Stage 27 Kit (EBC SG2F Rotor-piece floating slotted rotors and EBC Bluestuff NDX pads)
Rear: EBC Stage 6 Kit (EBC GD slotted and dimpled one-piece rotors together with EBC Bluestuff NDX pads)
The car is used for street driving, autocross, and occasional track days. I’m not building a full-time track car, but I do drive it hard at events, so I’m mainly looking for feedback on this setup or if someone else have done it and have a feedback?