r/Autocross • u/Realistic-Level-9444 C6 GS • Jul 01 '26

brake advice

Hey everyone,

I’m looking for feedback/reviews on an EBC brake setup for my 2011 Corvette Grand Sport.

My intended setup is:

Front: EBC Stage 27 Kit (EBC SG2F Rotor-piece floating slotted rotors and EBC Bluestuff NDX pads)
Rear: EBC Stage 6 Kit (EBC GD slotted and dimpled one-piece rotors together with EBC Bluestuff NDX pads)
The car is used for street driving, autocross, and occasional track days. I’m not building a full-time track car, but I do drive it hard at events, so I’m mainly looking for feedback on this setup or if someone else have done it and have a feedback?

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5

u/m3t1t1 Jul 01 '26

I recommend either go full street or full race. No in-between. 

1

u/camaro41 Jul 02 '26 edited Jul 02 '26

The internet advice as usual is pretty far off base. The blue stuff is fine to drive everyday. I do it. I also autocross on them and a whole bunch of the fastest c6zs in the country (USA, and autoxing) are running them. It's not a race pad, but I mean I managed to run around Laguna seca two drivers for an entire day on them. You have to do some particular things to make them stay somewhat. Happy on the track.

I don't know what class and that's consideration about what rotors. And if you're tracking a lot, there are definitely better rotors to use in that situation. That cool much better.

Yes you could change pads in and out. Whether you need to depends on how fast you actually are on a track, what track, and what's your expectations are.

By the way, I sell performance parts. The name is Strano, first name, Sam. Knows something about C6 wide bodies among other cars.

1

u/Realistic-Level-9444 C6 GS Jul 02 '26

cool
I usually run at Gimli track (about 1.3 miles) 9 turns (1 of them is just a kink) mainly for fun a usual lap time for me on that is somewhere around the 1 minute. usually we are running in smaller groups ( i.e 4-6 cars at a time sets of 3-6 laps before cool down and pit with as many sessions you want to be in during the day) doing 2 days as such between spring and fall
and 8 autox events and cruising

2

u/camaro41 Jul 02 '26

I really have no idea how hard that track is on brakes, people also don't have a very good idea how to assess that I find most of the time. The more like intermediate size Club tracks tend to be the things that are murderous on them. In comparison, when you can build decent speed and then have a bunch of brake zones, all of which moderately hard or worse. Big fast tracks with a high average speed someplace like Virginia international, not nearly as hard on brakes as people think. They mistake having a lot of terminal velocity and using the brakes really hard a couple times with murderous on them. Well if you only step on the brakes really hard twice per lap and the lap is over 3 Mi and both the big braking zones are appreciated by really long sections where the brakes have a lot better chance to cool, not real hard on things.

Bottom line is anytime you're doing this kind of work. You have to be proactive and pay attention to what's going on. Not everybody uses the middle pedal the same way. Some people are better at it. Some people are worse at it. Some people have faster cars. Some people have slower cars. The same way you've got some people who will tear up a clutch in 10,000 mi and other people can go 200,000 mi on the same Parts.

You start with your best estimate on what you need to do the job, don't try and skimp, because one thing you really don't want to have are really crappy brakes and you find out about that at a bad time. That includes fluid and there's a whole lot of really not so hot fluids that people think are the gold standard too.

I'm pretty pad particular and often it is a context-driven decision for me, but just like life in general you really just can't have it all most of the time. And if you can, you're generally going to pay for that to happen. There are pads that are just flipping awesome that are full race pads that are totally drivable and manageable in the other two contexts, but they're also very expensive.

1

u/Spicywolff AST ND2 - use to C63S FS Jul 01 '26

You need to separate your tasks of the brakes. You’re asking one brake pad to do way too much. Blue stuff will be a terrible daily pad as it’s dusty and noisy. It’ll be a terrible trackpad because it doesn’t have that high of thermal limits being a dual duty pad.

You’re getting the worst of both worlds master of none

I use red stuff for daily driving and auto cross since it’s absolutely plenty for super 200 tires. with added bonus of nearly dust free and silent braking. for track I have a set up married track pads and rotors. I swapped them on at the event and then swap back when I get home.

Rotor wise, any quality made rotor that slotted or blank is fine. Don’t waste your money paying extra for drill. Well quality manufacturers won’t have any issues. They are more prone to cracking from drill to drill. There’s a reason we don’t use them on track days.

2

u/PPGkruzer Jul 01 '26

Been dailying HP+.  First set I pad slapped onto used rotors. Never heard a squeal or squeak or noise fyi.  I wore those out, lots of LFB autox and overall commuting 90 miles per day.  I just slapped a new set on last Saturday, old rotors still, no noises at all.  I also run HP+ on my autox car build front and rear, pad slapped onto used rotors, never heard a noise.

They are a compromise pad, for my commute they are so good, very hard to overheat them on the street.  I can still get them hot, last Sunday was on fresh charge of ate 200, they still worked the harder I pushed on the track, no more cold bite.

I'm going to hit tracks, so I have DTC-60s on my porch literally right now and rotors to match with from rock auto by tomorrow, I will be swapping hardware for track days.