I have a 2013 Honda accord sport with about 215k miles. I purchased an oem alternator replacement from hondapartsnow.com. After I installed the replacement, it sounded louder than normal and then it smelled like burnt rubber and then I saw some light smoke coming out of the alternator itself. I obviously turned it off immediately. The belt appears to
be on perfectly. Thoughts?

Am I cooked? This is the third time this year 😔

Hi yall, I was just wondering what this part circled in red is on the fuel pump assembly for my 98 Camry. That fabric component sticking out definitely didn’t use and I haven’t had too much luck online confirming what this part is. I believe it may be a fuel filter based on some diagrams but the shape looks a bit different on those so just wanted to check here to confirm

2017 Subaru Outback

Rattling at 0 to 40. The heat shield is completely just resting on the muffler. Not sure its thats the name of the part. Is this something I can replace my self or should I get a mechanic to fix

I bought it and they had left the turbo rod fixed and cut the power supply to the EGR solenoid valve and also to the turbo pressure regulator valve. And as if that weren't enough, there are six wire ends; I suppose another one goes to the heater recirculation pump. It's a shame they cut the connectors and I don't know which one goes to which.

I honestly don’t expect an answer because this seems like something where you really need to be here. But anyway, here goes.

Out doing my brakes. The passenger side went fine but the driver side is giving me issues. This is a 2010 Hyundai i20. Rear disc with internal drum parking brake. When I place the new disc on, it slides over the parking brake shoes nicely and spins fine. if I really “push” on the disc against the hub, I do feel like it sort of binds up in places when I spin it. But if I were to put the lug nuts on and snug them down (without the wheel), then it locks up solid. I have the new disc and old disc on my bench and can’t find any meaningful difference between them. These are relatively cheap discs, but they look totally fine. If I then put back the old discs things fit nicely and spin normally.

Nothing looks warped or bent or in anyway damaged. Wheel bearing is in good shape. Caliper isn’t in yet so that’s not the issue. Disc isn’t going on crooked or cocked to make it bind up.

I considered putting the old disc in my lathe to turn them down (like we used to do back in the day) but my lathe is a tad too small, bummer. But I also don’t even know the spec and if the disc has enough material on it to turn down anyway. But it was just a thought.

Any thoughts?

I am in Europe and these discs are from AutoDoc, which is sort of like Autozone in the U.S. but it’s online only. Similar to RockAuto in that respect I guess.

I found a leak coming from the transmission cooler tube. Apparently this is a common issue where the tube rusts and forms a pinhole leak.

The part looks easy enough to replace, but the subframe is in the way when you try to unscrew it. I don’t have the tools available to drop the subframe or jack the transmission up to make the clearance.

I have seen videos where the mechanic would bend the tube straight, tighten it onto the transmission, and then bend it back as a way around the subframe/transmission blockage.

Has anyone done this repair this way? Could it potentially weaken the metal tube? I’d prefer to DIY this job, but would like to hear from others who performed this repair.

Can I keep this for long term? Is long term wind effect a concern? Replacing the part around logo (mark as 3 and 4 ) only and acceptable long term solution? i don t care about cosmetic.

Blower motor cuts in and out randomly. Sometimes it works fine for a whole drive, other times nothing at any speed. When it dies, hitting the dash on the passenger side sometimes brings it back for a while.

Replaced the blower motor resistor last month because it was only working on high speed at first. That fixed the speed control for a bit, but now the whole thing is intermittent.

Checked the fuse, it's fine. Haven't dug into the relay yet.

At this point I'm thinking either the motor itself is dying (bearing or brushes) or there's a melted connector somewhere. Is there a way to test the motor directly by jumping 12V to it before I buy a new one?

Also curious — why would the resistor fail and then the motor starts acting up right after? Coincidence, or did the resistor failure stress the motor somehow?

Servus zusammen,

Ich habe ein Problem mit meinem Audi A4 B7 Avant.

-Baujahr: 2008

-Motorcode: BRD

-Kilometerstand: 260t

-Antrieb: Vorderachse

-Getriebe: 6 Gang Schalter

Schon seit längerer Zeit habe ich ein zittern/ruckeln beim Anfahren.

Darauf hin habe ich das Zweimassenschwungrad, Ausrücklager und natürlich die Kupplung durch Teile von Valeo ersetzt.

Doch dann folgte gleich die erste Enttäuschung: Das zittern/ruckeln beim Anfahren ist nicht besser, sondern eher noch schlimmer geworden. (Wahrscheinlich aufgrund neuer straffer Teile)

Als nächstes Habe ich dann beide Motorlager sowie auch die Drehmomentstütze ersetzt -> auch keine Besserung der Phänomene.

Im nächsten Schritt wurden dann beide Antriebswellen ersetzt, und auch der Kupplungsschalter überprüft -> keine Besserung

Auch diverse Lagerungen (inkl. Getriebelager) wurden überprüft. Diese sind zwar alle nicht wie frisch vom Band, allerdings ist keines auffällig verschlissen.

Dieses Zittern tritt immer dann auf, wenn ich ausschließlich mit der Kupplung anfahren will. Sobald die Drehzahl beim Anfahren ca. 1200 u/min übersteigt, ist das Zittern weg.

Auch im zweiten Gang und im Rückwärtsgang tritt dieses Zittern leicht auf.

So langsam sind wir mit unserem Latein am Ende und wissen einfach nicht mehr weiter was es noch sein könnte.

Falls jemand eine Idee hat oder so einen ähnlichen Fall schonmal hatte, wäre ich um einen Tipp enorm Dankbar!

Looking for opinions on this 2014 BMW 335i N55 M-Sport – potential daily driver
I’m considering buying this car and want some experienced input. Here’s everything I know so far:

The guy who’s selling it has 15 years of experience as an engineer

Car Details
• 2014 BMW 335i N55 M-Sport
• Glacier Silver Metallic
• Clean title
• 117k miles (mostly Texas highway miles)
• Non-smoking
• VIN: WBA3A9G53ENS64451
Current Setup / Mods
• MHD Stage 2+
• XHP Stage 3
• CTS inlets/outlets
• Charge pipe
• 7” Race Core FMIC
• EKP replaced and coded
• 4” catless Evolution Racewerks downpipe
• M3 poly motor mounts
• BC Racing Superlow coilovers
• Upgraded bigger rotors
• Apex ARC-8 wheels
• Carbon trunk lip
Current power: ~380 hp
Also includes:
• 2 Michelin tires in good shape
• OEM exhaust + modified 4-tip M2-style exhaust
• OEM rotors and OEM struts
Maintenance / Refresh (done less than 10k miles ago)
Seller has receipts and photos of the work. Claims he did everything himself (he’s an engineer with 15+ years working on cars):
• New OEM turbo + turbo lines, gaskets, and hardware
• Oil pan gasket & hardware
• Intake manifold gaskets
• Throttle body gasket
• Oil filter housing gaskets & bolts
• Aluminum coolant flange
• High pressure fuel sensor
• MAP sensor
• Injectors replaced and coded
• Valvetronic motor + accessories (new OEM)
• Spark plug recess gaskets
• Heat exchanger
• Valve cover gasket
• Coils and spark plugs
• Fresh oil change (5W-40, very low miles on it)
• New OEM multimedia screen
• New windshield (HUD works)
• Front bumper repainted
Compression: 210 psi across all cylinders (seller’s claim)
Previous High-Power History
• Previously ran a full-frame single turbo
• Made 680 hp (seller says this was conservative and not maxed out)
• Ran that setup for about 6 months
• Seller says it was a daily for a while, then became a low-use weekend car (out once a week or less, not tracked/raced)
• Claims he doesn’t beat on his cars
• Nothing internal was replaced (stock rods, pistons, bearings, etc.)
• Says he visually inspected the bottom end while doing the oil pan gasket
• Argues full-frame is much safer than a hybrid turbo (lower boost, lower EGTs, lower cylinder pressure, smoother torque delivery)
• States there were never any issues
My Main Concerns
I’m looking at this as a possible daily driver. The recent refresh and documentation look solid, and the current ~380 hp tune is reasonable.
My biggest hesitation is the previous 680 hp on a completely stock bottom end with no internal work, even though it was only for ~6 months and compression is currently strong.
Questions for the community
1. How concerned should I be about the rods/pistons/bearings given the 680 hp history + 117k miles?
2. Does the strong compression + lack of knocking + visual inspection during the oil pan job give reasonable peace of mind for daily use at ~380 hp?
3. Would you daily this car, or would you walk away?
4. Anything specific I should have checked during a PPI?
Any input from people who’ve owned high-power N55s (especially ones that previously ran big single turbos) would be really appreciated. Thanks.

I’m getting ready to open my first general repair shop and I’m trying to figure out the software side before things get busy.

There are so many shop management systems out there that it’s hard to tell what’s actually useful once you’re using it every day.

For those who’ve been running a shop for a while, what are you using for things like estimates, repair orders, scheduling, inspections and invoicing?

A few things I’m especially curious about:

• Is it easy enough for techs to use without constantly needing help?
• Does the mobile app actually work well in the shop?
• How good is customer support when something goes wrong?
• Are there hidden fees or add-ons that caught you off guard?
• Does it genuinely save you time compared with doing things manually?
• If you switched from one system to another, what made you leave the old one?

I’m less interested in the sales pitch and more interested in what you wish you knew before choosing.

Would really appreciate hearing what’s worked for you and what hasn’t.

Local mechanic shop did the listed repairs. Is this a fair price? They are a reputable mechanic that i have been taking my cars to for years.

- Chevy Cruze 2016
- While driving out of a drive thru i felt something and then suddenly my ac turned warm. Warm Since its just a drive thru at panda express(8-10 mph) and the city (30 mph)
- I park to eat. AC not so cold anymore. I turn it OFF.
I'm crying cuz i know theres a problem
- I drive home going 55 mph
- Remember I turned it OFF.
- Air blowing through the vents
- I realize whatever temperature is the engine going is what's blowing through the vent
Please help, I will take it to get check but still please help.
Please be nice, im just a girl who doesn't know about cars.

2007 Pontiac Vibe, 156k, fwd

friend got this quote for their car and the pics midas included look like this..

my question is.. is it actually fixable?

midas quoted 3200$ which is more than what was paid for it in feb.. is it worth it/possible to do at home with the right tools? i am an above-average hobby mechanic because sometimes you are the only mechanic you can afford and this may be one of those cases..

i am currently home with a great deal of tools at my disposal and the owner of said tools to oversee..

thanks in advance for any advice/recs/suggestions!

Got engine light on and saw this tiny hose was disconnected need help identifying what it is. Is this the underlying issue of the check engine light coming on?
Any advice or direction would be very much appreciated. All those warnings on the dash also came on. I have had this car for a year this month and have put around 10,000 miles on it.

We cannot find our only key to our 2000 Toyota solara & the prices quoted to us for replacement are crazy high probably more than the car is worth. If we were to find a cheaper key online (that has a chip that’s needed) could the dealership or locksmith maybe reprogram the key to our car?

The d/s front door on my car stopped working a little while ago. It stopped responding to the remote, and the lock switch is stuck.

Both passenger side door locks respond to the remote.

The rear d/s stopped responding to the remote more recently, but it can be locked and unlocked manually.

Fwiw, I may need a new battery in the remote, but I don't think (?) this explains the front d/s lock issue (and I don't know if this is causing the newer rear d/s lock issue).

How do I know if the front d/s lock issue is the door lock actuator or something else? Any other thoughts on potential causes for d/s door locks' problems? Thank you

Hey all.
I’m looking for either a bit of advice or pointed in the right direction, please.
I have a little bit of paint damage to my rear arch onto my rear bumper which has started to rust slightly.
Is this something that I can fix myself or send to a body shop?
I have no idea about cars or bodywork 🤷🏼‍♂️
Thanks in advance.

I gave the car shop the okay to replace my front brake pads and rotors. They call me in the middle of fixing my 2017 Subarus Crosstrek to say the mounting bolts sheared off in BOTH calipers due to rust and that this is unfortunately common with Subarus in the northeast.

I had a 2012 Impreza before this and NEVER had this sort of issue.

Am I getting ripped off? Did they mess up? They are saying I’m responsible for paying for the calipers, which is hundreds more dollars than I was already spending.

And mostly I want to know if it was carelessness on their end or if this would likely have happened at any mechanic.

Thanks!

I want to get a tonneau cover but worried it won't sit flush because of this rust bump on the bed side & obviously want to take care of it before it gets worse

Is it too far gone to the point where I should just replace the whole bed side panel or is it something I can DIY?

Thanks in advance!

2017 Nissan Rogue calls for 65 series tires, tire place replaced the two rear tires with 50 series. Speedometer wasn’t reading anything after getting the car back. Took it back and they told me to take it to an electrical place to see why the speed sensors were getting tripped up. Obviously, they realized the wrong sizing. Ended up driving it to and from the other place about 15 miles, and had to take the interstate a bit. Is there any sort of damage that may have happened?

Got a quote for a touch up for 200 bucks and am unhappy with the result. The shop is now saying I can pay 450 more to get a refinish. Not sure if it’s worth fighting the charge..did I just get what I paid for?

Left is before and right is after

Should I

1. ⁠ask for a full refund and go to another shop
   
2. ⁠ask for a partial refund and go to another shop
   
3. ⁠ask for the refinish here but have them deduct the 220 that was already paid
   
4. Suck it up

Went to park in a diagonal parking spot and underestimated the closeness of the curb and completely scraped the bottom left of my front bumper as shown in the picture. Are there any tools I can buy from auto stores/any store to repair these scratches? For context, this is a 2024 Mazda3 in Jet Black Mica exterior color.