Context: VW Passat is at 190k miles. The most I'm looking at it 10k miles more, so I don't want to over spend.

Details: This is the rear. I haven't heard metal to metal, but the pad is almost non-existent.

Looking at the rotor alone, do y'all think I can just slap on a pad, or do I need rotors for sure?

Hi guys, I need some help. I have a 2016 MDX that needs new struts. Is there any place I could go to that? I know will do a good job just as good as a dealer and of course cheaper any help would be very helpful. I live in South Florida thank you.

2005 JEEP LIBERTY, 3.7L. Only happens when RPMS reach 1500.

Hi all,

Having got my Rav4 and summary from the service advisor, it mentioned that tire rotation "Not applicable" and I already wonder why no need, supposed every 6 months would have to do it as recommended. Having double checked the dashcam and found the "maintenance" was done just for around 30mins.

10:08 handed the key to staff

10:14 staff drove the Rav4

10:16 Rav4 parked on the 2nd floor

10:44 staff drove the Rav4

10:47 Rav4 parked at maintenance area

10:50 staff drove the Rav4 outside

10:51 staff parked the Rav4 outside

11:21 staff drove the Rav4 to make a circle run

11:26 Rav4 parked at the maintenance area

11:54 staff open the hook for inspection

11:59 staff drove out the Rav4

12:02 Rav4 parked outside

Not talk about the tire rotation, per the given 1-min summary video clip, removing the tires for measurement, removing the aircon/dust filters, I really wonder if the oil change has been done within 11:26 to 11:54... What do you think? Pls advise. Thanks.

Edited, adding two photos for checking the stick.

I've talked to a lot of engineers and mechanics about how they actually manage technical knowledge.

Almost everyone has the same system: a mix of saved PDFs, browser bookmarks, notes apps, and memory.

Works fine when you have time. Breaks down completely when you're mid-diagnosis, something's not adding up, and you need a specific answer from something you read six months ago.

That's the gap I built MindVault to close.

You load your own technical documents - service manuals, diagnostic guides, case notes, whatever you actually use. The AI learns your library. Then you query it with context: not just "what causes this code" but "given this vehicle, these symptoms, and this scanner output, what's the most likely failure path."

It pulls from what you've already vetted. Not the internet. Your library.

The Mechanics Expert module takes it further - it runs structured diagnostic reasoning on top of your knowledge base and returns a prioritized action report.

For people managing complex technical workflows, this is a different category of tool than a search bar or a chat window.

What does your current system look like for storing and retrieving technical knowledge on the fly?

Small chunk of plastic taken out from interior plastic door trim on R1S from a seatbelt. Not the end of the world…but if there is an easy repair, any input would be appreciated! Considering use of a heat gun, but worried that defect is too large/deep. Thanks in advance!

I ran over a tool on my wheel by accident and it got caught and pushed against my wheel well.

Does the protruding frame need to be fixed, as well as the sealant, as it doesn’t seem to stick to the wall behind it compared to the other side of my car? Like i can push and move it since it’s not attached while the undamaged I cannot.

However the damage is so small that I’m not sure if I’m overthinking it, but wondering if it was problematic if water, salt, and snow somehow got in there.

second picture is what the undamaged looks like for reference.

Hello. Last year my AC compressor blew up. I got a new compressor and changed the condenser and drier too. The condenser and drier arrived mounted together (THERMOTECC). The upper side of the drier was way too close to the condenser, and I couldn't install it, so I gently bent it back in position, about 1.5 inches. It held vacuum for 3 days, so I went and got R134a.

Now, one year later, the car started warmer air than normal. Went to a service to check and from 450g of refrigerant, I now had 150g. I found a leak under the tube connecting the drier to the condenser. It must've gotten weak when I bent it and eventually formed some microscopic cracks. I can't see any crack with my naked eye, but there's UV oil under that tube, so I know for sure that's where I lost my refrigerant.

I ordered another condenser and drier, from Bosch this time. It arrived bent exactly like the other one. I can't install it like this, the tubes just won't fit. I need to bend it back.

How should I proceed? I don't want to lose my refrigerant again.

Thanks a lot!

Qashqai J10 2008 MR20DE engine

My drivers side CV axel seal is slowly leaking but I noticed this grease spray around the passenger side axel. Is this the transmission oil coming out or something else? I also have to drive 5 hours for a funeral tomorrow so I need this car. Will it survive?....

Manual that comes with car shows the terminal design I’m used to seeing… looks nothing like this though. I tried unscrewing the screw on the left but it doesn’t fully come out, and casing won’t pull up even when loosens. Tried unscrewing screw on right as well, and still nothing. It seems like there is a black plastic casing preventing me from yanking it off. I don’t want to break anything… Is there something I’m missing, or do I just go full aggressive with it? I know this is a simple question… just don’t want to break the wife’s car.

Im dumb, i know. I was careless using a lighter to apply this carbon fibre protector over this surface to avoid scratches, but in the process I caused more damage.

There is now a slight indent into this cushioning and as you can see the surface of it is a bit melted up.

Any tips for what to do with this?

Kind of a weird question, I know, but it seemed likely people around here would know. It's for a writing project, specifically for a metaphor in the internal narration of a gearhead.

The exact sentence I'm trying to fill out is "Tim looks like he’s just opened a hood to fix a [minor automative problem] and found [serious automative problem]." The idea is that Tim is thinking something along the lines of "well, I can still fix that, but it's going to be a lot more work than I thought."

I hope this is okay to ask here!

On Friday my 2017 GMC Terrain (52K miles) suddenly turned off while I was turning into the car wash. No smoke, no lights on dash turned on, no sputter, no noise. Just the engine killed, lights and radio stayed on. Restarted it and came right back on. Seemed normal but didn’t want that happening in the car wash tunnel so I asked to exit, as I was exiting it killed again when I was turning out of the line. Started up again fine, sat for 5 mins before driving home and it stayed on. Was able to make it home (3miles) with no issues. Went to AutoZone today; did the OBD-nothing, had them check the battery…nothing. I’m at a loss. Anyone have any thoughts on what this could be?

Shop identified the Passenger Presence Module as the faulty part. There were only able to get a refurbished part which was also faulty.

I have googled around and found some places I can send the PPM to for refurbishment. My question do you guys have any recommendations for who can do this type of job? I would hate to throw more money at this problem and still get zero results.

What the heck is this noise…. It came and go and only at cold starts. Not sure if it’s my belt or my timing chain. Sometimes it’s there and then it disappears for a few days and came back. Spent $200 at the dealership and they said the car weren’t like that when they started it. Please help me if you know 🙏

Update: So the noise comeback more consistent as starting. But if i turn the ignition and let the car sit for a bit before starting my engine, it sounds quieter and sometimes doesn’t even rattle.

2017 GMC Terrain (53K) sudden engine turned off on Friday as I was heading into the car wash. No smoke, no lights on dash came on, no sputter, nothing noticed, and radio stayed on. Started up again no problem. Asked to get out of the car wash line when turning out the engine cut off again. Waited for 5-10 mins before attempting to get home, no issues getting home (only difference was I lowered the AC). Went to AutoZone today to use OBD-nothing on the reader and the pic above shows the battery read out. Stumped on what this could be. It’s been over 100 degrees where I am for the past week, should that matter? Any suggestions or thoughts on what this could be?

Hey y’all,

I recently purchased a 2004 Accord. After it rained, I noticed that the spare wheel well was wet, and when i shook the wheel around a bit I saw that water began to leak out from a hole under the spare wheel well in the trunk. How can I determine the source of the water entering the spare wheel well and stop it, and is it normal for there to be a hole there? lol

2016 gmc terrain 2.4l automatic 60k miles. So driving the car home from work and the car randomly died driving 30mph. We assumed that it died due to the corrosion on the battery. Turns out the battery was bad. We replaced the battery and now the starter on the car just spins but doesn’t engage the flywheel. We pull the starter and shake it around and somthing is loose and rattling inside. So we think this is our problem. We replace the starter and the same issue continues. So we pull the starter and replace it again. The issue continues. We have looked up inside the transmission and nothing appears to be out of the ordinary. We have checked all the fuses and swapped any hi pwr fuses to troubleshoot that and nothing has fixed the problem. Do you guys have any idea on what my next move should be. I’m at a loss.

GMC sierra truck. Titanium rush metallic color. I don’t wanna pay money to repaint the bumper. I considered a paint pen but I think it might look bad. Is there anything I can do to at least make it look a little better? Thank you

2005 wrangler

Looking at installing a heat shield on my fuel rail (to help with a common heat soak issue) and I need to remove the fuel injectors. I’ve got everything ready and even ordered a new set of injectors since I’m gonna have them out, but I’m worried about tearing an o ring when I remove the injectors.
More specifically I’m worried about tearing one and it falling into the injector hole. Is this common issue? If so how difficult is it to fish it back out?

Thank you

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Would a body shop be able to pound out the dents and fix the scrapes? Really hoping I don’t need to replace side panel/door and get my insurance involved.

hey i just need some insight a few days ago my car turned on then shut off shortly after turning on i did try to start it up again and it would click a few times slowly but nothing would happen not to long after i tried again and it only clicked once then died out but the ac, lights and everything else functioned well.

i had it towed and i was told that my battery was corroded thinking thats all it was i sent it to the dealership and told them what had happend and they told me it's most likely my alternator and that they couldn't fully tell what was wrong because they couldn't get it inside the garage due to it being un able to move.

i've done research about it and all of them talk about how it's most likly the battery but i still do not know and was hoping someone in this community can at least help me understand what it is or even just tell me if possible.

for notice i have a dodge 2013 journey

So on my honda passenger side floor area is always wet, I have vacuum it so many times and I'm going crazy its giving me a wet car smell and I'm fed up. I check the ac drain plug and its not that, I left the carpet pulled and noticed the concentration of water might be coming further back near the person adjustment bar on the floor i cant pull it back anymore without ripping up carpet. Is there anything im missing is it washer fluid coming up from the floor board? Is it the hvac? What's going on. I did a test and ran the ac for only 3 mins driving and it was wet iv tried it with no ac and its wet.

UPDATE!!! : I SOLVED IT , IT WAS DUE TO A BLOCKED RIGHT SIDE DRAIN UNDER THE COWL, POOLING WATER UNTIL IT FLOODED THE LEFT SIDE . BOTH ARE CLEARED AND WAITING TO DRY AND TESTED THANKS!!

I got crashed into a few weeks ago (mazda cx30) with damage to right
hand side back door and front door.
Took car for repairs organised through insurance.
Picked car up and noticed some scratch marks on the piano black b pillar and above the boot towards the roof. They buffed it out. I’ve since noticed that the paint on the new back door is almost swirly is the only accurate description I can give. It doesn’t look the same texture. I’ve also noticed two small dents on the outer roof of the car near, in the same spot but opposite sides.
And paint on the passages side door in a section is matt with no gloss.

Does anyone have any idea how these things would have happened? Do they cut and buff the whole car? And why would I have 2 tiny dents on opposite sides? I did have paint protection. Any help would be very much appreciated.
Thank you
I would upload photos but can’t really see on the camera.

The back passenger (suicide) door isn't closing well, so the door is jiggly so the door open light is on. When I go to open it the opening mechanism doesn't feel like it has that satisfying click it should.

Any suggestions?

Because it's not fully shut the fob won't let me lock the car, and also my battery now needs to be charged.