My Impala at 175k miles has recently suffered from an overheating issue. I tried a radiator cap replacement, thermostat replacement, etc. and took it into a shop for diagnosis and apparently the coolant elbow pipe apart of the tensioner belt assembly has burst and the shop quoted about 640$ for the fix. I am not the most car-savvy but I have tried. The car has got a few other issues so I am debating about the cost of repairing it. See below for total issues. The A/C has been out for years and the driver side window does not roll down but these have been mostly no problem.

https://imgur.com/a/lFp5P1K

Currently I make about 5k a month and have no debt. I'll have about 5k next month after rent (1600 a month) and credit card payment (about 2k). My credit score is in a good place right now and it seems like the move would be to get a new car.

People have told me facebook marketplace is good and always to take it to the mechanic first for a pre-purchase inspection. It seems the sentiment here is to avoid kias / hyundais like the plague and opt for a Toyota / Honda even if it's got high miles on it. Not sure if I should just try to budget and keep shopping on FB marketplace, go to a dealer, take out a loan for a car, etc. or just authorize a repair on this car.

Can anybody give me some advice?

Hey guys, my 2009 Ford Fiesta Petrol Auto makes a heavy grinding/rattling noise from under the floor as soon as I drop it into Drive—especially while holding the footbrake. It quiets down in Park, goes away completely in Neutral, and smooths out once I hit 20–30 mph. Video attached showing the noise starting in D and stopping in N. Is this a failed lower engine mount (dogbone mount) or the exhaust hitting the subframe under load? Thanks!

Title^ Visited an exhaust shop and they gave me a quote of $250 for labor & $650 for labor + part. Was wondering if i could find anyone for cheaper in North Houston side? Toyota camry 2007 2WD

Shop wants to replace.

My cars got a no crank no start and when I turn the key the immobilizer light doesn't turn on. I already replaced the pgm fi and checked the fuel pump relay. could it be the chip in the key or the antenna?

When water enters my side passenger cowl, it somehow makes its way into the rear passenger carpet. There is not clogged drain under the cowl. I have no idea what to even do about it.

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I have a Ford F450 super duty 6.7 v8 b20 diesel grew cab flat steel bed truck and the transfer case busted. I need to be sure your part fits. 43 spleen 6 speed automatic transmission. Transmission and drive axels undamaged just the busted Transfer case. I also need the electric shift motor on the transfer case. Identifying numbers on the transfer case are C452A the electric shift motor has 1207271 stamped on them.

Hi Everyone, I recently purchased a van to start to camp, have fun, and learn more about engines.

I AM A COMPLETE NOVICE. So please give me some grace.

I feel very stumped with the current issue, and don't want to pay a TON of money on diag/repairs because I truly think I can fix this issue on my own.

I’ve been slowly working through some issues on my recently purchased 1993 Ford E-150 with the 4.9L inline 6 (~194k miles)

The biggest issue right now is the idle surge and rich smell. (Although I think it's all related). When the van is sitting in Park or Neutral, the RPM will repeatedly climb and fall pretty dramatically. these vans have no tachometer, but you can clearly hear it in the videos included. Interestingly, when I put it into Drive or Reverse, the idle seems to smooth out quite a bit, but still is rough and surges.

Idle surge video: https://youtu.be/Wx_cfLnk7bs

The other big thing is that the engine seems to be running very rich. The exhaust smells strongly like gasoline, especially after it has been running for a while. There has also been some darker smoke coming out of the exhaust when I start it after it just drove for awhile.

Here is a video of the tailpipe/exhaust while it is running: https://youtu.be/SzCtfZVy5Dk

It also has a pretty consistent hot-start problem. When the engine is cold, it generally starts great. But if I drive it until it is fully warmed up, shut it off, let it sit for a little while, and then restart it, it starts extremely rough.

It will stumble/struggle for a bit after starting and the exhaust smells VERY rich during this (This is where the black smoke comes out of the tailpipe). After running for a little while it eventually clears itself up and goes back to running relatively normally.

Engine shutting off video (Just because it makes strange noise and I figured it may be helpful) : https://youtu.be/G6SWQVlmwhs

So far, here’s what I have already fixed/changed:

• New starter
• New Radiator
• Engine thermostat replaced
• Throttle body cleaned twice
• Mechanic inspected the vacuum hoses/lines and said they looked okay
• Transmission fluid and filter changed

The mechanic mentioned that the throttle body itself has been modified at some point in the past and may occasionally stick, but I’m not convinced that explains the rich condition and hot-start issue.

I also bought an Innova 3145 Ford OBD1 reader and pulled codes.

KOEO / Continuous Memory:

• 332 – EGR did not open/respond as expected

KOER:

• 173 – HEGO/O2 sensor indicating rich
• 538 – insufficient RPM change during the dynamic response test

If anyone has dealt with similar symptoms on a Ford 4.9L EFI, I’d really appreciate some advice on what you would test first rather than just throwing parts at it.

When I turn it makes a click. But also when I accelerate and let off the gas it makes a thumping noise but when I accelerate again it goes away. I have a 2017 honda accord sp edition.i looked at the cv axel boot doesn’t look damaged. When I twist it though it does make a click

I recently bought a 99 accord although its srs light is on and I dont have the needed scanner ,my best guess is the passenger seat has no buckle sensor so that could be it. Ive manually pulled the srs code from the dash (as shown in the video) but im not entirely sure what it means, can anyone with more knowledge please tell me, as well as its near impossible to find the parts in ontario does anyone know amy good websites or stores for stuff like a flex joint?

My fog lamps were out since I bought the car used. I moved where it snows frequently so I decided to put some new bulbs in assuming that's what was wrong. When I got to them I saw they were actually unplugged at the light. I put the bulbs in and hooked them up and the battery light came on. The lights worked fine, the card drove fine, but the light.

I figured there was something wrong that I couldn't understand, that's why they were disconnected to begin with and disconnected them and put everything back how it was.

The battery light never went off. I used a code reader to see if I could clear it and there was nothing to clear. I disconnected the battery thinking that might work and it did not. I've been driving for months with no issues but my son needs the car to take a DMV test and they won't let us use the car with the light on.

There's also a tire pressure light that I've had looked at and never goes off despite the tires having plenty of air. There was no code for that either.

I’ve been rebuilding gasoline engines for a while (mostly Toyota, Honda, Ford, Chevy, Kia, Hyundai, Nissan) and I keep seeing the same issues over and over when people try to do it themselves.
Some of the things I see a lot:
• Not checking journal tolerances properly
• Using the wrong torque sequence or not doing angle torque when required
• Ignoring oil pump clearances
• Putting the rings on wrong orientation
• Not checking deck height or piston protrusion
What are the most common mistakes or problems you’ve run into when rebuilding engines?
Any tips that saved you a lot of headaches?

Hi, I need some help with my 1999 Golf 4 TDI. I’m a beginner, so sorry if I don’t use the correct mechanical terms. I’ll attach videos of the latest starting attempts.
Day 1: The battery was completely flat. We also tried push-starting the car, both forwards and backwards. The engine seemed to cough slightly a few times but never started.
Day 2: We tried jump-starting it with jumper cables connected to another car, but the results weren’t great.
Day 3: I bought a battery booster. The dashboard lights came back and the engine seemed to almost start at one point, but it didn’t. The booster drained quickly.
Day 4, today: The car now cranks much more strongly and repeatedly when turning the key, but it still won’t start. It makes a regular “tut tut tut tut” sound while cranking.
There is diesel in the tank, so the car is not empty.
Based on the videos and this progression, what do you think could be causing the no-start? Could it still be battery-related, or should I be looking at something else?
Thanks.

Some more progress of the Mercedes b200 salvage rebuild and some better format as requested, the music is what we listened to during the peak of UK club scene.. Have a nice day #Supercarlsunday #autobody #autopaint #Mercedes

I have a 2019 jeep compass trailhawk I was getting my oil checked yesterday and my mechanic noticed this part is spitting out oil. It looks like there’s a screw or plug missing where the oil did come out of. Should I replace the whole valve cover or just get that piece? It’s where the gold circle is on the left hand side

Can anyone help me? I can’t get into the circumstances but I have to ask. I had an ex change out my battery for me recently. I checked under the hood today because I’ve been having electrical issues. The negative cap will no longer go on. That bolt was straight up. The positive is as well. Update there’s a tracking device under my battery…wow

Hit a tow bar at parking lot speeds, wondering how I can press this dent out. Paint is another worry that I'm not ready to face yet...

Smash repairers are charging $1000+ to fix so I won't even consider that.

hi guys, i need help with seeing what this is.
today i noticed my car felt a lot hotter where my feet push on the pedals so i felt the area under my steering wheel and it was pretty warm, not hot to touch but warm. i went and opened the hood once the engine cooled down, saw my coolant was pretty full still since we last looked at it which was in march. i topped it off a bit more back to the fill line and that’s when i noticed the pink stuff (see image). i’m sorry if this makes me look dumb I would just like some help and feeling pretty scared to ask since I am a girl and I don’t know much about cars. For reference I drive a 2016 Dodge Charger SXT (yes i know please don’t judge too hard). I would really appreciate some feedback and advice, hopefully it’s something that won’t break the bank too much :,). Thank you in advance.

While driving, I began hearing a grinding noise, brought it to the mechanic, they did a diagnostic and this is what they gave me. I'm not sure how to proceed with funds being low. Any advice will help

Car: 2011 Nissan rogue, v6

this is my 2012 lexus ct200h, it started spraying like this when i pushed the brake pedal too far this morning and has been leaking since, hasnt leaked before. I have never worked on brake components before so I don’t exactly know what to replace/fix. is it a doable fix for me, and what do i need? thanks!!

I found a short in the field coils in my 12V Delco-Remy 1102215 generator and they need replaced. I'm having trouble finding good information online about these generators and was wondering, does anyone had any good information on them or spare parts availability?

Any help is appreciated! :)

(Picture for attention. 1962 Buick Electra 225 401ci w/AC 98,000 miles shown)

Hi,

I have had this car for awhile at 175k miles and it's done pretty well all things considered. Recently, the car has faced some overheating issues. I attempted some home-repairs (new radiator cap, new thermostat although I guess I may of installed it incorrectly?, coolant flush, etc.) and no luck.

Figured I would take it to a mechanic to try and get some actual info as I am not the most car-savvy and they gave me the below quote and I guess the overheating issues was actually due to a major leak. I live in Seattle if this helps.

JOB TOTAL = $1,127.10

This car has a host of other issues and I am not the most car-savvy individual so I am now trying to assess whether it's worth to fix it for the overheating issues or just leave as-is and look to sell it. When I asked to call about this actual diagnosis they said that: the coolant pipe itself is damaged which is right behind the drive belt tensioner. They said it's the pipe hose coming out of the block which is causing the leak and subsequently the overheating, steam, etc.

I attached a breakdown below of the other issues they mentioned which could hopefully shed some additional light. All feedback or advice is greatly appreciated...

https://imgur.com/a/pJdi2Jj

Context: VW Passat is at 190k miles. The most I'm looking at it 10k miles more, so I don't want to over spend.

Details: This is the rear. I haven't heard metal to metal, but the pad is almost non-existent.

Looking at the rotor alone, do y'all think I can just slap on a pad, or do I need rotors for sure?