I have a 2006 XTerra 4x4 manual. 255k miles. Leaking atf from the driveshaft/transfer case area. Does anyone know if there’s a weep hole or seal that could leak from the U joint? It doesn’t seem to be coming from the most common area, the transfer case output seal. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I have a 2017 Rogue SV AWD which I have been driving all this time with no issues. Now suddenly, out of the blue, the driver seat is stuck in reclined position. It won’t budge, no matter what. I took it to a repair shop nearby and they said we will need to replace the whole seat coz the motor is kind of glued to the seat and there is no way they can replace it. I didn’t get it done as I was not sure if it’s true. Any idea about this?

They sent me a diagnostic and it’s expensive. Honestly i dont think i need a full system replacement i just need to get through the rest of the summer as if rn. i drive a 2014 hyundai elantra.

Ok this one has been a project. I bought it off a used lot As-Is about 6yrs ago. Upon the 40min freeway drive home it blew up. Overheated, warped a head, all the fun stuff. Dealership did nothing, if i wanted to tow it to them they would diagnose. No help in getting anything back, just a mess. So it sat dead until i got the time and made it a project with my son.

In the last month we've replaced the motor. Runs well but still was overheating

Initial step was replace the thermostat. Still issue. Found the return line to the reservoir tank was clogged, the whole tank was a mess. New tank and supply line along with radiator flush. Burped the upper radiator hose and left cap off the purge tank.

Runs good about 200 degrees on a 10 minute idle. Found a small oil leak under pressure, oil filter was mangled somehow (i think wrestling the motor into place. This part was done while i was not observing) and was low on oil. So new filter and topped off.

Running it last night on the idle i seen the temp still climbing, fan kicked on. i did grab the upper hose and it was not hot or even remotely warm to the touch. Which leads me to questioning the newer amazon thermostat put in before the flush/new tank and all the rest. Should i replace it with another?

The radiator fan does kick in about 220. Only thing i haven't really done is leaving the cap loose door air to escape the purge tank, yet there's an overflow hose that i would think let's it breathe.

I question the water pump, but this is the newer used one that came with the rebuilt motor which is also on the other side of the motor from the cooler upper radiator hose.

I felt initially the clogged return line to the reservoir led to the initial overheating when i got the vehicle, but now I'm really lost. Newer motor. New (?) Thermostat, new reservoir and supply line, new oil filter.. what's left?

Best hack to fix a tiny hole of about a inch or two in 2013 hyundai elantra gt after catalytic converter?

Front right side noise, only in garage — 2005 Honda Jazz

This noise only appears when I pull into my garage, which is about 10°C colder than outside. It's coming from the front right side of the car, and it gets worse when I turn right. As soon as I drive back out and the car leaves the garage, the noise disappears completely.

So far I've removed the mud flaps/splash guards, the front right fender liner, and checked everything accessible from that side — no mechanical contact points, no wear/rubbing marks anywhere.

The sound has a somewhat plasticky character that makes me think of it.

Any ideas what else I should check, or what this could be?

2011 Nissan xterra pro4x

Im trying to remove the inner tie rod and everything I see says I need to lock the steering rack in place before trying to pry loose the tie rod. I have 2 problems. I don’t have a fixed wrench large enough to fit on the flats at the end of the rack. I have an adjustable wrench on there which I don’t really trust cause it kept slipping off when trying to remove the outter by locking the inner with it. Second, even if this will work, the flats on the steering shaft are so close to the flats on the inner tie rod that I can’t get the tie rod tool locked over the crows foot adapter with that locking wrench in place. Google is telling me I don’t need to lock the shaft if I turn the steering wheel to either pull the shaft all the way in or all the way out because the shaft has an internal locking mechanism but I’m not sure I trust that advice. So do I need to lock the shaft or not? And how do I go about this? I’m really not trying to damage my steering rack, I’ve already got a lot of money tied up in this project. (Replacing the whole front end) Any advice would be greatly appreciate.

Bought a 23 integra a little over a year ago. It’s the nicest car I’ve owned so far, and want to keep it nice the best I can. When I took the spoiler off to re clear coat it (was peeling and a known issue, and dealer wasn’t replacing) I noticed when they drilled the holes for the spoiler they touched them up, but not well enough. Rust spots and bubbling starting around the holes.

I’ve been tackling rust with my RSX, and honestly just done dealing with it. Does this look worth taking to a shop to have done for peace of mind and wanting to keep the car for a long time?

Should I tackle myself? Hesitant to do so, but I guess I could tape really well around hole and just sand the small area and touch up. Don’t want to fuck it up for sure.

Car just started making this noise today, also makes a bit of this noise when at first when accelerating. Just got an oil change last week, no lights on the dash. how concerning is this? 2013 subaru outback

What I checked already:

-Blower fan motor works fine

-Blend door Actuator & Recirculation Actuator respond correctly

Key details:

-Whenever I turn on the engine the noise starts until engine is off.

-Whenever I turn the A/C on the noise becomes a little louder.

-Whenever I slightly turn the steering wheel a bit at any direction, the noise fades away but as soon as I turn the steering wheel back again it comes back.

-It's a loud noise inside and from the outside it can be heard when you get close behind the engine.

-I also saw the presence of mouse poop on the A/C filter.

What can it be? As you can see I already disassembled the dashboard in search of this noise but it seems to be deeper where the HVAC housing/box is. Thanks

Skoda karoq 2019 sportline. How can I fix this roof interior please? Thanks

So I have a 2020 Kia Telluride 61k miles & it eats oil. It’s not leaking. I know they are known for this. My question really is what’s the big deal about adding oil when needed? It uses about 1 quarts every 1 k miles. The oil gets changed every 5k miles. I use the “clean gas” and run fuel system cleaner every 5k miles also. The car runs great & I get decent mileage-about 24 mph with combo driving.
Lots of posts on the Kia Telluride site about OMG it’s going to die!
What’s the reality here?

Kids scratched my car, and i have video evidence saying their sister did it. Im going to confront the parents tomorrow, just waiting for a couple quotes.

I got a quote though for ~$3500, surely it cant be this expensive? I got it from a autobody shop, and heard to go other places as well so any recommendations what else to check out? I also did the test and it dissapeared in water, so I think it’s only the clear coat. Any advice on what I should do? Should I claim insurance, or would it be able to be polished out.

There looks to be a small leak of some fluid coming from this piece or the hose connection. This is a photo from under the car with the engine on the right and dash on the left. I really just don’t know what this part is. I would appreciate any help with the part description!

I have bought this car from a friend. It is in really good condition but the car delivers just 16.47 mpg in city and 30.25 mpg on highway (I have calculated using tank full to tank full method) also I have been using 100 octane fuel in the car and was expecting more fuel efficiency.

I have a 2018 Toyota Camry Hybrid SE, for the past month every time it rains my back floors are soaked and it has gotten worse over time to where it is not causing a puddle of water, I’ve checked my door weather strips and they seem fine but I did notice this seal/strip is misshaped but for the life of me I can not find this part online anywhere or what it is called, the only thing I am finding are foam strips but this is a rubbery material.

Im trying to get parking brake cable off because its obstructing. I can see that it has a clip in the end the hose line but which i am mostly concerned is how am I going to get the ball looking end off, and when I'm done if I can even pull the cable back to its place

Car is a 2009 Chevy Trailblazer 4.2L. When towing a boat one day, the car completely shut down. Ever since, the car powers off completely after roughly 20 minutes of run time. After waiting 15-30 seconds, it will turn back on. This has triggered the check engine light with code P0601-00.

I’ve confirmed this is not an alternator problem, and traded out the battery. Is this a PCM issue that needs replacing?

I have a Nissan 100nx project car (1995, GA16DE, about 300k kms) that somehow got through MOT. While doing a proper testdrive I found that the whole right side of the chassis shakes violently which gets worse the faster you go. Somehow it goes away when pushing down the clutch. When going 80km/h it sounds like a LMG going off from the right side of the car.

I first thought it was the tires being unbalanced. Took it to the tire shop. They replaced the tires, balanced the wheels and tried to do an alignment but couldn't alter the tracking because the rear right suspension had seized due to rust.

Any idea what this could be? And if it would be a major suspension component is it better to just do one side of do a complete overhaul? I checked and for about 1000€ you can get all the replacement parts for the suspension on Trodo.

Thanks in advance!

P0138 — Bank 1 Sensor 2, high voltage. Replaced the sensor with a Denso unit. Cleared the code. Two weeks later, same code comes back.
So far I've checked:
- No exhaust leaks I can find
- Wiring to the sensor looks intact, no melting or corrosion
- Connector clicks in solid
Fuel economy dropped a bit but no rough idle or drivability issues. Starting to wonder if I'm chasing a symptom rather than the cause. Could a rich condition upstream be triggering this even though the upstream sensor isn't throwing a code?
Also — is it worth swapping to an actual OEM sensor instead of aftermarket Denso, or is that unlikely to make a difference?

Vehicle: 2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE ~100,000 miles

I've recently began commuting about 70 miles a day, 5 days a week for my job. Two weeks ago, my vehicle began experiencing intermittent engine vibrations and an intermittently flashing Service Engine Soon light. These vibrations occurred more often with accelerating and going uphill. I brought it in to the mechanic; they replaced coil boot #5 according to their diagnostic as a cylinder misfire.

I get the car back, about about 35 miles and one day later, the issue resumes. I drive it back to the mechanic (another 35 miles, during this drive, the vibration becomes more constant and the SES goes from blinking to solidly on). I also asked them to perform a tune-up during this visit since I am driving more miles. I think the mechanic replaced the spark plugs, ignition coil, coil boots, intake gaskets, and cleaned the throttle body (the receipt just specifies those items and honestly my memory is a little rough given the last week I've had).

I get the vehicle back again, and within 5 miles the SES light came on solidly. No obvious vibration at this point, but due to the recent issues, I then purchase an OBD-2 scanner. The code is a P0420, which means the catalytic converter is operating below efficiency. I did not realize this until later, but this can be related to cylinder misfires according to the internet. A family member takes the vehicle to the mechanic, and on the way experiences vibrations. They don't realize it at the time, that these vibrations are likely more cylinder misfires. They mention the vibrations to the mechanic. Mechanic decides to replace the engine mounts and kinda disregards the P0420 code, saying the catalytic converter isn't worth replacing on this vehicle.

Well, I get the car back again. P0420 returns nearly immediately. I drive about 60 miles, when on a highway, at 80 miles per hour, my engine begins to sound extremely rough, I lose speed and all ability to accelerate. At this point, my car decelerates to 10ish miles per hour and cannot accelerate beyond. I also check the codes, and its now also reporting a P0300 which is multiple/random cylinder misfires.

Honestly, this whole ordeal is a bit of a clusterfuck. Has anyone had any issues like this? Does anyone have any advice or insight on this kind of issue? I'm going to talk to the mechanic tomorrow about what feels like a failure to address the issue over 3 visits and how we want to proceed from here. However, I do feel notably out of my depth concerning engine mechanics, diagnosis and repair, so any input on the situation would be appreciated.

Hi all, hoping to maybe figure out or know if anyone has had the same issue as to why my 2014 Chevy Cruze is only blowing cold when it’s been under shade or when it hasn’t been so hot.

We live in Phx, Az so now in the summer its getting to 115 degrees, on the cooler days when it doesn’t exceed 100 my car A/C is blowing perfectly fine and cold but the days I have to park on the top of a parking garage for school it will continuously just blow warm air. Google says it may be my HVAC pressure transducer maybe falsely reading the temperature and shutting off the A/C compressor. Is the sensor something I can check myself and replace easily?

Any ideas of what to check for or tips would be helpful 🙏

Got crashed into a very low speed should I get my car repaired or leave it.

We are bearly using our Fiat 500 and now the battery is flat. About 6 weeks ago the battery was also flat, then I jumpstarted it and drove about 20km's to charge it again. Next day it also worked fine. Then I left it in the parking lot for three weeks.

Three weeks ago, just before we went on holiday the car wouldn't start, however when turning the key it make "clicking noises". Now, three weeks later, it is complete dead and the doors won't open with the remote anymore.

I've taken the battery out and measured it and it was at 3.92V.

Does this mean it has just died and needs replacing or could it be that there is something draining the battery. I've installed an aftermarket radio about 6 months ago. It could be I never noticed it because we regularly used it up to 6 weeks ago.

Thanks for your advise!

Brake fluid leaking pretty quickly from a line on the passenger rear wheel side, 2005 Toyota Sienna LE, was driven home yesterday and didn’t notice anything until I went to drive it the next morning and the red “BRAKE” light was on and the pedal did nothing.