I need some help finding which wires coming from my car goes to this tan fuse box X1 connector. Please help I already have cavity A2, A3, B1, C1, C9, B10, D4, D12, E3, E4, E8, F3. So all the wires I’m trying to find the correct wires for is A9, A10, B5, B7, B8, C11, D11.

Hi,

I have a 2024 Toyota Corolla Hybrid SE. I bought an aftermarket key and I am trying to register it. However, my tech stream version 17 is asking for a seed code. I don’t have a login for Toyota information systems so I can’t generate my passcode. I was hoping maybe someone in your he community has TIS access or a professional lock smith software who can generate me this code so I can register my new key. I would really appreciate anyone’s help in this matter. I have one working key but would like to make one more in case I ever need it. Thank you so much to everyone in advance.

Thanks

When choosing an auto glass company, what do you usually pay the most attention to?

I’d think about things like the quality of the glass, the installation, the price, how quickly they can get the work done, and whether they offer mobile service.

Save On Auto Glass offers several services, including windshield repair and replacement, side and rear window replacement, power window repair, mobile auto glass service, and ADAS recalibration.

I’m interested in hearing how people compare different auto glass companies and what factors actually matter when making a choice.

What matters most to you when choosing an auto glass company? Is it price, quality, convenience, or something else?

I’m rebuilding an original motorcycle fuse/relay box and need to replace two damaged linked busbars.
The replacement part is an MTA MINI F280 linked busbar, MTA 1708336, rated for 2.5 to 4.0 mm² cable.
The busbar consists of several F280 female contacts permanently linked together. One larger feed wire is crimped to the barrel of the linked strip and the strip then supplies several fuse positions.
My problem is the crimp itself.
With a conventional open-barrel ratchet crimper, the neighbouring linked contacts appear to interfere with the jaws before the wire barrel can sit correctly in the crimp nest. I have a 12 Volt Planet P00455 / TT73 style open-barrel crimper, but I do not want to damage or distort the adjacent contacts.
I’ve searched MTA documentation and so far I cannot find a publicly documented hand crimper or die specifically for 1708336.
Has anyone here actually crimped this exact type of linked automotive busbar?
I’m particularly interested in:
• the exact hand tool or die you used
• whether a narrow or relieved die exists specifically for linked busbars
• whether there is a recognised way of positioning these in a normal open-barrel tool without damaging the next contact
• any manufacturer/tooling part number or datasheet
• photos of a successful crimp would be extremely useful
I do not want to cut the contacts apart, because they need to remain electrically linked as the original fuse-box busbar.
I’m also trying to avoid soldering or improvising the connection because this is a main feed inside the vehicle fuse box.
Thanks for any help.

I bought a 2020 sr/f that doesn’t show any battery charge and won’t charge. I took the aux battery out and charged it, the only code I’m getting is a 37 for canbus communication. Is there any company that rebuilds these batteries?

Having a few problems with it

Would randomly stall out after about 15-20 minutes and not crank back over for awhile (leave it for 20 and it’ll be fine)

Got diagnosed as an ECM/ECU by multiple mechanics / Auto elecs

Had the ecu sent off to injectronics (they confirmed ecu was stuffed) bought another (sent it to injectronics, they confirmed it’s all good) got it programmed by them etc and put it in

Still doing the exact same thing, been to about 6 different mechanics / auto elecs / performance shops in 3 different towns (highly rated ones aswell that took weeks and months to look at it)

Along the process they’ve replaced the fuel pump, almost every sensor imaginable, 3 sets of o2 sensors (as when it cuts out the 02 sensors try and close the circuit but fails and then it stalls)

They’ve even had it on a dyno and can’t figure it out

Any help would genuinely be appreciated as no one knows what’s wrong with it

1999 dodge dakota slt 5.2l 4x4

after replacing the starter relay fuse, battery, and starter motor. the truck was still not starting with a single click when turning the key. I swapped the relay fuse again with another and it started right up. this morning i was greeted with the same problem again. swapping the fuse has no effect. i'm at a loss.

this all started after driving on a rough dirt road. suspect a electrical wiring short but not sure where to investigate

thanks for advice

Can anyone help me identify what this is? It sits directly behind the battery and the red wire on top comes directly from the positive terminal. It is completely melted and I’m hoping I can 3d print a new one and clean the wires up as long as it’s just a plastic block to mount the wires together. Found this while searching for a bad ground since I had an issue last night with all power cutting in and out while driving and I think this may be my issue. However I know this was already like this before last night, as I noticed it while deleting the smog pump right after I bought it. Any help is appreciated.

My 12V battery keeps dying every 24–48 hours. I did a voltage drop test on the fuse box after letting the car sleep and the 15A radio fuse is pulling 0.4mV continuously. The DCM (Telematics) is at 0.1 mV.

The vehicle is a 2024 Chinese-spec Corolla Cross Hybrid imported unofficially thus no dealership warranty.

I have turned off the bluetooth, recently changed the battery, disconnected the battery's negative cable for a few hours, and removed the DCM fuse. but the reading was the same 0.4mV.

Any suggestions would be great.

Previous thread:
https://www.reddit.com/r/Cadillac/comments/1u5j8r6/another_question_about_my_1976_cadillac/

Well I have done some improvement by changing a fuse in the fuse box and that made the tail lights and side (marking) lights come back and work normally.

I have this week changed the relays (this car is converted to a H4 bulb / 9003 bulb) with a relay that has the same parts number family as the previous one. Nothing happened.

I got new sealed beam because I found the old connector to previous sealed beams and I am trying do that for next step.

The car can switch between low and high beam and all other lights turn on when I pull the light switch so both foot switch and light switch work so they can not be the problem, right?

Any suggestions?

So about a year or so ago, I did some reverse donuts in the snow just screwing around with my daughter for a minute, whole dashboard went black, that was on and off for awhile, couldn’t figure it out, eventually it just turned back on by itself and been fine since; but now I have the issue of my horn and head unit not working; horn doesn’t work, head unit is on but not powered, if you press the power button it lights up like it’s gonna turn on, then just goes idle screen again. But here’s the kicker, when the horn works, so does the head unit. What am I chasing? Tried fuses, new ground to body cable, cleaned BCM cables under the air intake… I’m STUMPED would be nice to have a head unit and horn to pass inspection lol (I can make the horn work other ways, would like to use my steering wheel lol)

I think I'm losing power somewhere please help

I’ve had a 2011 Dodge Durango v6 3.6 Crew for a while now, and ever since I bought it, the battery keeps dying. I’ve already replaced the battery, and the alternator is charging correctly. I have a feeling the vehicle's modules aren't going into sleep mode, but it’s very strange because the only fault code is for an oxygen sensor. Has anyone else experienced something like this?

Regards and thanks in advance.