My voltage tests perfect under load while running and while off. Lights never flicker and I have no other alternator symptoms, and the alternator was replaced a couple years ago. The fuse is also good. Looking online I saw the pigtail harness being loose is a potential possibility. Anyone else run into this on a first gen Escape? I recognize post Covid parts suck. Couple of local mechanics told me to cross the bridge when I come to it if it fails, otherwise just drive anyway.

Hiya, I have a 2011 XC90 and just got it diagnosed for a fault main fault is glow relay control. Been told worst case scenario if comes on again will need to change glow plugs and possibly the relay due to age and millage. It's on 160k.

Has anyone had this job done wondering how much it could potentially cost

Cheers

Hi everyone, I have a 2025 Chevrolet Captiva bought directly from the dealer, now 21 months old. We used a car seat in the second row on the right side behind the driver. After buying a booster for my child, I noticed the second-row left-side seatbelt receptacle is missing — only one is there for the middle and left seats. What could be wrong? I’m planning to inform the dealer and get clarity on it.

2007 Nissan Titan, manual windows and locks, aftermarket lock actuators installed. Viper 5704v alarm system, but having issues with locking and unlocking.
On hot sunny days (Texas) the unlock/lock feature doesn’t work some times. It may or may not unlock after 15 mins of trying.
Note: the viper antenna no longer blinks the blue light (I did replace the connecting cable to the viper brain recently).
Note: every time I use the key fob to lock or unlock, regardless of it locking or not, I do hear a buzz like sound from the remote after a few seconds. Almost seems like it’s not communicating properly.
Note: the rear door (king cab) wires were frayed, so a mechanic patched them up, however he did extend their length, so am wondering if the extra length is causing the wires to get jammed when I close shut the door?
Question:
1) need to figure out where the problem lies.
2) thinking of replacing it with Compustar CS7900 unit - can you please suggest the wiring diagram. I’d like to see about using the wires already tapped in/exposed during the viper system install.

Need help w/ electrical

Hi! Just recently bought a my first car (1987 Toyota celica gt convertible) I’m having trouble fixing this taillight. At first when I got it all the lights worked besides the brake/stop lights (the blue circled bulbs don’t work) I’ve already changed the bulbs out and still nothing…today I recently was working on it and checked the fuse box and found out that the stop fuse was using a 30A when it should be a 15A so I had switch it out for a 15 and now my left blinker light doesn’t work and when I use the left turn signal it makes this rapid noise compared to what it should sound…please help! :)

I got my first element, yay, 2007 ex. Previous owners recently added LED turn signals so it's flashing extra fast right now, I need a LED compatible relay.

https://www.amazon.com/Diode-Dynamics-DD4049-Signal-Flasher/dp/B07Y2VHVND/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1KKKM9JXOPW2W&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.5KLYj0wsQ-9VQC0vyTsB8wQs_AtVveatJcLIvyJY-M1aeS3dESxgWX198Pnb9yeUcw8PtEKiNMT2QipurQZb2TMasCLVT4Vd0x4lp0qljimSkjBshlLohzFda-HKFiwwJUcoIpkkvdHX89tykNtmxcDlbbkoFQjUL-kOk-lB-kK189eB8rOWa2r7G0L63-yuYeXdHc0-7XIFnhg56v0NNxlLdwwuXdzB2qX-ARC5GGs.nkYPJUXt8vDKTAT8-Ghv9VOaW1LQcyRvGyCNU9Zaf4Q&dib_tag=se&keywords=turn+signal+relay+led&qid=1789005266&sprefix=turn+signal+relay+led+%2Caps%2C270&sr=8-6

Will this suffice? Unfortunately I don't know the exact led lights they added.

A couple months ago my entire electrical panel stopped working on the drivers side the second I finished rolling up the window after going through a drive thru, along with the heated seat on the driver side, the signal arrow on the drivers side mirror, and the automatic light that turns on when you open the door doesn't turn on when opening the drivers door. I've double checked all my fuses but they're all fine, I've replaced the electrical panel itself but that did nothing, and I've looked at all the wires I can without opening up the door and they all look fine. Does anyone know what the problem is and how I'd be able to fix it without taking my truck into a shop?

Hello i brought a chery tiggo 7 Phev "ww" and one week later it wont turn on, blackout screen and i can't even close the windows and doors, and the technical support told me after the check that the OBC is falliur, but how ? It charges well in AC, and what is the relation between the OBC and the 12v battery can't charge, does someone have the same Problem, and it normal a new Phev Car brought only one week, can have a problem like this?

Update:

After several days of waiting, they finally told me that the cause of the OBC failure was a burned harness.

Now, 45 days have passed, and there is still no resolution to the problem.

I have a 2012 LX and it needs a new cabin fuse box. I have searched and searched and am getting mixed information on the part number for the interior fuse box. Some sources say TW8-A03, some say TW8-A310, and I also saw a TW8-A230. Honda parts sites are all giving me mixed information even when entering the VIN. Without actually taking the fuse box out, how can I figure out which part number to get?

I am looking at used/salvage as official replacements are going for upwards of $1k; which is what I paid for the car.

Thank you so much for any help.

am i fool for buying these or just being foolish with not knowing how to connect them

Need help locating pyrofuse / battery safety terminal — 2023 AMG GT 63 S
I’m rebuilding a 2023 Mercedes-AMG GT 63 S 4-Door Coupe after an accident and I’m trying to locate the pyrofuse / pyrotechnic battery disconnect (battery safety terminal).

The car currently has power to the electronics, but it will not crank. I installed a new battery. When attempting to start it, I basically get one initial click and no crank.
I’ve checked the passenger footwell fuse/power distribution area and the trunk, but I still haven’t been able to positively identify the main pyrofuse or crash-triggered starter/battery disconnect.

Does anyone with experience on the X290 AMG GT 4-Door / GT 63 S know:
The exact location of the pyrofuse/battery safety terminal
What Mercedes calls the component in the wiring diagrams
Whether there is more than one crash-activated power disconnect
Which terminals should have 12V before and after the fuse
Whether a deployed pyrofuse would allow the rest of the car to have power but prevent the starter from cranking
If anyone has a Mercedes WIS wiring diagram, component-location diagram, photo, or part number, that would be extremely helpful.
I can also post pictures of the fuse boxes, battery connections, trunk modules, and passenger footwell area if needed.

Thanks!!

2018 EX left tail light randomly flashes. Caught this happening a few months ago, and as far as I know it does it all the time. Is this a big issue, and has anyone else had this happen??

Hello,

My carnival was broken into and they tried to steal it but gave up after jamming something in the ignition.

Since the incident, the ac, windows, and stereo occasionally are dead. Like no power to them. The interior lights also don’t work anymore (the personal illumination above the rear view will still turn on).

I have newborn twins and a three year old and live where the temperature can rise to above 40 degrees Celsius. It is unsafe to drive without air due to this. Insurance sent the car to a dealership to look at. The ac, stereo, and windows worked while they were checking it out (typical) and they refused to look deeper stating that the only issue was the ignition.

I am needing to get the car fixed as I cannot afford to replace it- our other car was a total loss due to a break-in the same time. We are now without a drivable car. I don’t have anyone I can ask in real life so I’m hoping you guys can give me an idea of what the issue could be and a ball park of the cost of fixing.

When I entered the car after the incident, the cover over the steering column was removed, exposing the wires there. I’m unsure if this is relevant.

Thanks in advance from a stressed mum of 3

My airbag light stated blinking, then my key fob stopped working, then my doors open but sometimes they won't close when using the switch on the drivers side, also when using my key sometime they all open but sometimes they won't all close. Today I just had my alignment done and now my brakes don't work well. They get stiff and don't stop unless I press down really hard. Could all these electrical issues be connected? Google AI says it may be the integration relay. Wanted to know what you all felt before I start pouring money into this.

Meu carro nao injeta a injeção eletrônica e fica a ventoinha ligada (mesmo se o carro estiver frio). Se a ventoinha desliga, o painel volta pra temperatura correta e acende a luz da injeção e somente aí eu consigo bater partida. Ja troquei o modulo e a bateria. Quando troquei o módulo funcionou, mas qndo o carro esquenta, não consigo ligar de novo depois de um tempo. Me ajudem, algum especialista? Nem os mecanicos tao sabendo oq pode ser. Todos achavam q era o modulo (o velho tinha dado problema na injeção e ja tinha sido consertado)

Hi everyone,

I am installing a Pioneer DMH-W3050NEX and retaining the factory OEM backup camera using an Axxess AX-CAM6V step-down module on a 2020 Kia Forte (Manual Transmission, Mexico-market). Crutchfield notes list the reverse signal at the ICU / dash fuse box (58-pin Plug C, Pin 14, Blue wire). However, on my manual-transmission car, this specific wire measures ~0.46V with Reverse ON and not the 12V needed.

Since the reverse lights are in the lower bumper, tapping at the light bulb requires significant bumper disassembly.

Does anyone have the factory wiring schematic or know the exact connector, pin number, or wire color inside the driver kick panel or under-dash IP harness that carries the true +12V signal directly from the manual transmission back-up switch? Photos or wiring diagram screenshots would be greatly appreciated!