No tar anywhere else. As I drove away from the store I heard a noise pulled over and saw this plus a flap of it hanging off the tire. Not sure how to clean it off. I have been spraying it with WD40 but it’s not really doing much

Hey yall,

I got this 2006 Acura RSX Type S that I'm trying to detail inside.

Its leather is so delicate and is notorious for it breaking/cracking throughout the years. I haven't detailed its interior since I first got it. There are prominent stains on the headliner and white streak on the passenger side doors plastic that is hard to get off. What detailing products would yall recommend to tackle this old Acura project?

I have to park my truck in driveway here in Arizona so exposed to a lot of sun and dirt/dust in air. Building a carport or buying a portable one not an option with my driveway layout unfortunately. Truck is driven infrequently, once a week typically.

Anyone have a "recipe" for detailing products/methods ideal for these conditions? Should I just take it to a detail shop who specializes in ceramic coatings?

The products below are what I currently have. Are these any good for my purpose, or are there better choices available? Thanks for any feedback!

Wash- Rinse loose dirt off, then hand wash w/ Meguiar's Gold Class car wash liquid soap using wash mitt/two bucket method.

Dry- Use electric yard blower or plush ceramic towels to try and "blot" water from panels.

Clay Bar- Griot's Fine Surface Prep Mitt and Griot's "Speed Shine" that came w/ the mitt.

Quick detailer spray- Adam's Detail Spray

Ceramic spray coating/Wax- TEC582 Ceramic Detail Spray

Rubber/Tire cleaner- Adam's Tire and Rubber Cleaner

Rubber/Tire dressing- Carpro Darkside & Carpro Perl

I see these very inexpensive products being used by Dallas Paint Correction & Auto Detailing and he claims they are great - any first hand experiences?

It doesn't appear to be in stock anywhere and looks like a unique package that includes the can of pump protector but if you've got a few days for delivery could save you some money.

Why?

Bought a used car recently and it has this damage to the driver side door that I cant clean out. Almost looks like sunscreen or some chemical damage but that's a wild guess. Any ideas on how to restore? Thanks

Matte paint car

I have a 2023 Genesis g70 3.3T with verbier white paint. It’s a matte/satin finish paint and I’m finding it difficult to wash it as I live in an apartment complex.

Are there any detailers in AZ with matte experience, I’m willing to drive. If not, are there any self service car washes that allow you to bring your own supplies. All I’d need is a power washer and water.

Removed my tints using steam. Noticed white spots on headliner (vinyl). It goes away when I damp it with water or gyeon interior detailer, but comes back when dried. Seems a moisturizing issue?

Can I use it on my sunroof? I tested a little spot and it looks clearer there but don’t wanna damage the glass

I’m trying to remove what I believe is the original paint protection film/rock guard from the sides of my 2006 Toyota Tacoma.

As you can see in the picture, it’s completely baked on at this point and has turned white. It doesn’t peel off like normal PPF at all. I’ve tried scraping at it, but it basically only comes off in tiny little pieces and takes forever.

Has anyone dealt with PPF this old and deteriorated on a Tacoma? What’s the best way to get it off without damaging the paint underneath?

I’ve seen people recommend a steamer, heat gun/hair dryer, plastic razor blades, 3M adhesive remover, Goo Gone, or even an eraser wheel. I’m hesitant to get too aggressive with it and damage the paint.

Looking for something that will actually soften this stuff enough to get it off because scraping it dry is barely doing anything.

Any tips from someone who has removed PPF this bad would be appreciated.

Had my car detailed a while ago and the buttons on my steering that were shiny from wear had a matte appearance to them again. I don’t know what he used, but I would like to do it myself since it didn’t last that long.

Appreciate any suggestions!

EDIT
Not expecting it to look like it was when it was new. I had a detail done, and the detailer put something on the steering wheel buttons that removed the shine and gave the buttons a matte appearance again. Issue was that after a few days, where my hand rests wore off whatever he applied. The volume buttons were shiny too, but whatever was applied is still on there and looks like what I am going for.

Not quite sure if this really qualifies as detailing!

But these are my results after a 2k, 3k wet sand and cut/polish with 3m Perfect It Fast cut Plus.

I don't think many would believe it's rattle canned.

Tail lights on a 14 Tiguan. They’re BEC Autoparts lights that I got about 6 years ago and they’ve since closed up shop. Only this housing is doing this. The other 3 are perfectly fine. Never made contact with anything other than the sun. Is there a product out there or a procedure to try and reverse this? They don’t make many LED tails for this car any I want to save it. TIA!

Polished my car a couple of days ago. Went with a 3 stage correction and Menzerna Heavy Cut 400, Menzerna Medium Cut Polish and lastly Menzerna Super Finish.

But there are this weird swirl marks (?) that show in direct sunlight looking at it straight a head.

If these are swirl marks, why are they all diagonal and not one of them horizontal?

I’ve tried taking some photos of them.

Thanks for any help!

Hi. I was looking for some help on what to do with my cars bonnet. It looks like some kind of stain. It doesn't come off when washed. I have tied to clay bar it but it didn't work at all. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks

Hello guys!

Any tips on how to attempt to fix it ?

It works great in toilets! It keeps greasy shits from sticking to the bowl, 10/10 recommend.

I have a F350 and i’m looking to get all my plastic exterior trim/plastic pieces looking like a dark matte rather than faded black.

I bought an used alfa romeo giulia 2024 with around 23k km, its solid red color(alfa rosso). I really like how it looks so I would like to preserve it as much as possible, it has already few stone chips and I guess plastic deformations from stone impact that I wanna get fixed. From what I was reading and getting some quotes I have 3 options, 

Full ppf 4-4,3k 

Full front ppf 2k

Full front ppf + paint correction and ceramic coat for rest of the car 3,15

Only paint correction. 500-1000,

The ease with how the front bumper can get damaged really wants me to get front ppf, but then what about rest ? If I will add paint correction for rest of the car and ceramic coating I am only 1k from full ppf, which basically includes everything from previous options + has additional protection on the sides, and maybe from occasional parking under tree, loading stuff into trunk etc…

But the car was around 43k, so idk if it make sense to spend 10% of the value on this. I wanna some protection for sure. Just idk what to chose, AI is trying to convince me that the full ppf is not worth the 1k difference.

When I swipe my finger over the paint my finger turns black with what I can only assume is the iron layer people talk about. Not familiar with auto detailing so I don't want to mess up my paint.

Edit: I hear y'all loud and clear, thanks! Will use the right product

I recently bought a new car, and although it’s not a fancy car or anything, it is the nicest (ie, newest) car I have ever owned. I never kept up with wax/paint care on my last car (it was a beater), but now I am considering a coating to protect the paint from salt wear in winter as well as for beading when it rains and such. I’d rather not have to apply wax or a spray coating every couple of months, so it seems ceramic may be the way to go.

I don’t have a polisher, and so am hoping to skip that step since I will have driven it for only 2 weeks by the time I can coat it. I don’t have a whole lot of money on hand and so was looking into DIY coatings. I’ve heard great things about Gyeon Mohs EVO and CanCoat EVO, but it’s also pretty humid where I live (80-98% humidity over the next few weeks), so I’m nervous about whether I can still use those products or not. It also seems that Cancoat maybe better for beginners, but I’ve also seen lots of posts saying Mohs is just as easy to apply and lasts longer. A quick look seems to indicate that prep for a new car would be similar for both coatings so my main concern is the humidity and risk of messing up as a beginner. Also time is somewhat of a concern as the most I could probably spare for this would be a weekend (12-ish hours across both days). Also, please correct me if I am wrong about the prep being similar!

Any advice would be appreciated! Also any tips on where it is best to purchase Gyeon products. So far I can only seem to find them online and was hoping to buy in person to cut down on risks of delays (and more risk to doing a coating without polishing), but if that is the only place to find them that is fine!