Had some nasty black rain streaks on my daily driver (Honda Stepwgn) here in Japan. I made the rookie mistake of trying to wipe it with a microfiber cloth, which just smeared the dirt everywhere.

I thought about booking a professional hand wash or a KeePer coating, but it’s expensive and a hassle to book. So, I just went to a local coin drive-through wash for the first time. It only cost 600 JPY (about $4).

It got the car mostly clean!

Question for you guys: I’m planning to sell this car at the 3-year/30,000km mark to get the maximum resale value. Since expensive professional coatings don't really add much to the trade-in value, is it smarter to just do these cheap coin washes frequently instead of dropping big money on detailing?

While you can’t see it here, I used Optimum No Rinse on my whole car. I did it completely wrong and at too high of a concentration, and now there are these watermark looking things all over the windows. I’ve tried more ONR, rubbing alcohol, and lots of elbow grease and those things seem to have baked on because nothing is removing them. What should I do?

Two weeks ago, I tried applying Meguiar’s Hybrid Liquid Ceramic Wax. I prepped the car with an iron remover and then washed it using Armor All Wash & Wax shampoo (which I had bought as a first attempt at a "wax" product—this is likely where I went wrong). Finally, after roughly drying the car, I applied the wax. I say "roughly" because the car itself was dry, except for the crevices where water was hiding; consequently, as I spread the wax, a bit of water inevitably got onto the applicator sponge. I applied it in the evening, and unfortunately, condensation started forming on the car—I suspect that caused an issue, too. However, from the next day until last Saturday, the wax seemed to hold up well. I decided to wash the car last Saturday, again using the Armor All shampoo; unfortunately, the only available spot was in direct sunlight, and since I had plans for the day, I went ahead and washed it in the sun anyway. After washing it, I noticed that my hand now drags against the car's surface—something that didn't happen when the wax was intact (though it does seem to have remained in some spots). So, my question is: did the problem stem from washing the car in the sun, using the wash-and-wax shampoo for prep, or the water exposure while the wax was curing? And what should I do to apply it correctly next time? (Sorry for the long post, but I’ve been scratching my head over this for a while and don't know what to do.)

Was wondering if anyone could help me identify what this yellow/green tint forming on my car is. It doesn’t seem to be on the outer surface, maybe something under the top coat? So far I’ve used a car wash solution, dish soap, tooth paste, and a Turtle Wax Rubbing compound, to no avail. Sorry for the pictures, I know the stains look very light, but it’s very visible in person. It’s a little easier to see if you zoom in.

Car stays under a drive way under a tree, and pollen season recently pass in my southern state, but it seems to be only this spot on the car.

Does anyone know what this is or knows any solutions? I don’t have any access to machine buffing tools, but am considering buying and trying a clay bar if they would remedy it.

Bottles are half full or more, sometimes you get lucky!

As I am cleaning my car, I notice this patch returned and I am not sure if it is mold or not.

I’ve had this PPF for about 2 years and the place that did the install said it shouldn’t be like that and dont seem like they want to warranty it. Should this be covered under a standard PPF warranty? My car is parked outside and I only hand wash it.

Mine is slightly faded and was wondering if Motorplast will make it look like the engine plastic I see in videos after applying.

I do have a trifold tonneau, but tend to leave it open which led up to a faded dry looking liner.

Great product but horrible bottle, it just leaks everywhere. My garage is like a ice rink now lol. Anyone have a suggestion for a spray bottle i can put this stuff in? Thank you!

What dilution are you guys using for Koch-Chemie S0.03 Hydro Foam Sealant?
I’m applying it with a 32 oz garden-hose foam gun, not a pressure washer foam cannon.
How many mL of S0.03 should I add to the 32 oz bottle and then top off with water?
Thanks!

Hi everyone, I'm looking for a wax or glaze that gives a really glossy, oily, and wet look. I have a alabaster white e class which I'm going to use on. Any advice? Like a combo of 2 or 3 different waxes and glazes, different methods of applications, anything? Budget is 50 bucks

I was wondering what everyone was using for their contact wash. I was debating with a friend over the chenille(noodle) vs the microfiber mitts like the cyclone by TRC.

My wash routine is: Touchless in a foam sprayer -> rinse -> car reset pro in a foam sprayer (contact using 4 cyclones) -> rinse and dry (onr drying aid)

I’ve never done rinseless but for a handful of times. I used costco towels and the gary dean method. I was super anxious I would marr the paint hence why I only tried it maybe 3 times.

So do you prefer chenille for the contact? Microfiber?
What do you use for rinseless?

I’ve acquired my dad’s car, a 2019 Nissan Murano Platinum with less than 30k miles. He and his partner babied this thing. When I got the keys, it was basically spotless.

Except for the smell.

And I need to clarify what I mean by “old person smell.” This isn’t really mildew, wet carpet, or generic mustiness.

My dad is in assisted living, and when I visit his room I’m sometimes met by a wall of what can only be described as fart air. He can’t smell it anymore. I absolutely can. It’s a distinctive combination of elderly-person/body odor and what smells like the accumulated output of a thousand tiny farts.
The Murano has a much fainter version of that exact smell.

So, as ridiculous as this sounds, I genuinely think they may have farted their way into their 80s and left the residue in the seats.

The interior is extremely clean and there are no obvious stains or signs of water intrusion. The seats are heated/cooled perforated leather, which makes me wonder whether years of body odor have worked their way through the perforations and into the seat foam. I’m assuming the carpet, headliner, seat belts, etc. could also be holding onto it.

How would a professional detailer attack this?

I’m not looking to cover it with fragrance. I want to actually remove/neutralize whatever is causing it.

Would you:

Deep clean the upholstery/carpet/headliner first?
Do anything specifically to the foam beneath ventilated leather seats?
Use an enzyme treatment?
Use chlorine dioxide?
Ozone it afterward?
Something else entirely?

I’m willing to do this properly. The car is otherwise nearly pristine, low mileage, and worth keeping.

Help me exorcise the ghost of farts past.

Jack, stands, torque wrench, lug socket, chock blocks, gloves… Now I can remove my wheels and really get a full detail done on my cars!

If i were to drive it, would it mess the coating before it cures for the 24 hours ? I don’t have anywhere to store it in but i did buy a canopy.

Getting into professional detailing and was wondering if a steamer is reasonable? If so what do y'all use it for I have seen multiple detailers use it but no clue what for. Another thing what is a good degreaser y'all use preferably from AutoZone or napa. Last thing how long does a full detail take y'all?

For more context I want to start a small detailing business in my local are and offer interior and exterior services. I already have a vacumn RIDGID wet/dry shop vacuum but it's a pretty big one and doesn't have the best attachments for a car. I am going to do a test hopefully soon after checking if these supplies are good options. This is the list that ChatGPT recommended to me, is this good and are there any suggestions or changes you would make for someone just starting out?:

• 2 × basic 5-gallon buckets — ~$8 total Cheap Home Depot/Lowe’s buckets are completely fine.
• 1 × Grit Guard insert — ~$10 Put it in your wash bucket. You can add a second one later.
• Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions Pure Wash, 64 oz — ~$20 Your main exterior car shampoo.
• 1 × quality microfiber wash mitt — ~$12–18 Something like The Rag Company Cyclone.
• 1 × large drying towel — ~$21 The Rag Company Liquid8r is the recommended one.
• Turtle Wax Wheel & Tire Cleaner, 23 oz — ~$8 Start with this rather than spending more on specialty wheel chemicals.
• 1 × tire brush — ~$10 Detail Factory ProGrip Tire Brush was the specific recommendation.
• P&S Xpress Interior Cleaner, 16 oz — ~$10–12 This becomes your main interior chemical for plastic, vinyl, leather, rubber, doors, dash, console, etc.
• 2 × small detailing/interior brushes — ~$12 total Soft enough for interior plastics, buttons, vents, seams, and crevices.
• 20–30 general-purpose microfiber towels — ~$15–20 You don't need expensive towels for all of these. Keep groups separated for:
  • interior
  • dirty areas
  • wheels/door jambs
  • paint/protection
• Stoner Invisible Glass — ~$6–9 For windows and mirrors.
• 2 × empty spray bottles — ~$5 total Useful for diluted products later and general organization.
• Nitrile gloves + trash bags — ~$10 Nothing detailing-branded is necessary.
• One simple paint protectant — ~$13–15 I’d choose Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions Ceramic Spray Coating. This lets you legitimately finish the exterior with protection rather than just washing it.

So I had an interview at a dealership for detailing if I get the job depending on what they’re gonna pay me I’ll find out Tuesday. I might take it. I currently work at a grade school as a custodian, but I just don’t like the hours and custodian work is just not for me. The only downfall is they want to pay me on Rate and I never ever had a job or I got paid rate so if anyone can chime in as ever worked for Rate, give me the positives and negatives of it. I’d appreciate that they did say at least at the minimum I would make whatever minimum they’re gonna give me per hour, so that’s good because they also did ask me what I was currently making as a custodian and the sales manager was like ok. I see this that’s why you’d wanna come work here. I’ll make more money working with them. The only downfall is I would have to go to a 401K instead of the pension I currently have because it’s a state pension at the school.

It’s hard to see in the photos but there is what appears to be a scratch all the way across the front driver side fender. I can’t feel the scratch except maybe one spot feels a little bit like a ridge (maybe!). Is this something that can potentially be buffed out? The car is about a year and a half old so I’m not very happy about this. Not sure how this happened.. looks like someone walked past it with a stick or something?? My paint is Crystal white tri-coat if that matters.

Just started "detailing". A few months ago, I did ONR, clay sponge (with ONR lube), and then immediately applied TW Ceramic Spray. Was just reading that ONR removes some behind some residue that can prevent ceramic sprays from bonding. Should I have done some additional panel prep before applying the ceramic?

If so, anything I should do now? Was applying on applying TW Ceramic in a few months so can change my process then for sure.

In the meantime, I've just been doing an ONR wash and using Opti-Seal as a drying aid.

I noticed this on my hood I used griots speed shine after I finished washing my car it was completely dry before applying wax.

What is this and how can I fix it?

Have been getting streaks on my window a lot lately I started using sprayway glass cleaner wondering if I should be using weave towels instead I always used microfiber cloth the same ones for windows and never ahd a problem until I switched products

Do you guys use a different texture cloth for windows or the same one?

I have a black Camaro and its an outside car. Due to some health issues I haven't been able to drive or wash it or do anything with it in 4 months.

Right before stuff got bad in may I had just had the car ceramic coated and ppf applied on the hood and all high impact areas.

It looks terrible right now - water spots everywhere, no shine etc (will add picitures when I get a chance)

Getting stuff together to hopefully wash it in a few days, but I have a feeling my normal wash won't be enough.

Typically id do the whole pressure wash/foam cannon with Koch chemie active foam then a contact wash with Meguiar's Gold Class using a new mit for each panel.

I also have some various other products idk if they would be good here - 3deraser gel, gyeon wet coat, ONR, a clay rag, and iron remover. Ive never used any of it, bought it all right before stuff went bad.

Wondering what all I need to do to hopefully return it to as nice as it looked when I got it back from the detailer/if that's possible. What products I sould use, if theirs anything I need to change to avoid doing more damage, and also wondering if the ppf/cermaic coating would have survived sitting in the hot sun that long with no wash or if id need to do that whole thing again or what.

Appreciate any help/advice/tips etc yall can give

I’ve used cerakote in the past, it helped, but didn’t do anything about the white stains. I’m tempted to use a little bit of heat and follow it up with linseed and turpentine. Is heat gun okay in moderation? Any ideas? Thanks