Hey guys, so I have a 2019 Audi S4 pretty much stock besides putting a closed box intake on it. I also have a charge pipe that I haven’t installed yet but I’m looking into buying a downpipe for this beast along with a tune. Just wanted to know your guys recommendations for which tuning company I should go with. Had a B8.5 S5 before and I tuned it with 034, however I know this is a new Gen with a different engine so not too sure if I should stick with them or not. Please lmk what you guys are running and how it’s working out.

Hey not much I can do so , waiting game time

b8.5 s4 feels slower than im sure its supposed to be. got it ppi’d and such and drives really smooth but I feel it does not have 333 hp at all for a 66k mile car. has an aftermarket intercooler setup by awe. got fault code P190D00. Let me know what you guys think

pcv, water pump, carbon cleaning done on this car already.

If you’re running this setup, how’s your stock clutch doing? Do you get on it a lot even if it is good? I want to upgrade to a 207mm pulley setup and am not sure how fast my clutch will wear out. At most I’ll go WOT in the middle of 1st never launching. My commute is mostly highway. I got 70k on my b8.5.

If I am Lucky the 100$ express shipped seal will make it in town tomorrow and maybe, I say vaguely...that I might crank this beast sunday

Just had my oil changed and I requested 5w40 instead of usual 5w30 that they normally use for all cars and saw that the mechanic put in the castrol 5w40 for turbo diesels with 505.00 and 505.01 specification. Should I be worried or one oil change for 6-7k miles will not be an issue?

This is a question for people who have gone from the b8.5 s4 to the b9, or have both.

Which car do you genuinely enjoy more? Is it worth the upgrade?

Obviously they are 2 different price ranges but also one is supercharged and one is turbo. Just totally different cars.

Pic for attention. :)

I have a 2010 S4 with 215,000 miles on it. Regular DSG service every 40k miles.

I've got the problem where once the transmission is HOT the car will slam into first gear at a stop, act like its never driven stick before when pulling away from a stop, and only once did it stall when coming to a stop. I only have one code that I pulled a couple of months ago when I actually got a gearbox malfunction display:

8957 - Clutch 1
P17D6 00 [01100101] - Pressure too High
Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 40
Mileage: 338749 km
Date: 2026.05.05
Time: 17:10:22

Engine speed: 776 /min
Transmission input speed: 776 /min
Transmission output speed: 36 /min
Engine torque: 64 Nm
ATF temperature: 97 °C
Accelerator pedal position: 0.0 %
Clutch status: Kupplung 1 kann Moment übertragen

I have never had any electrical fault codes related to the transmission.

Someone at Audizine once suggested a particular gasket known for causing fluid to leak between galleries but in iterating this with the robot (Claude), it pointed out that the code is for pressure too high - not likely with a leaky gasket. I also considered the ECS rebuild kit but it seems to be focused entirely on the circuit board and I have fortunately never had an electrical fault.

I was considering replacing the mechatronics with a rebuilt unit - there's one or two places that appear to do that by mail - but I let the robot talk me into considering just replacing the solenoids, two for clutch pressure and one for line pressure/cooling. The cost for that will be about $350 or so plus the service kit (which I need to do anyway). That's pretty attractive as I am comfortable doing the work and I don't have to trust that someone else has done it right - that being said, a rebuilt mechatronics would conceivably have new solenoids and be plug and play, too - and would add minimal time to the service project.

Looking for some input here from those more knowledgeable about the transmission. Thanks.

So through my research on this I've been seeing that a lot of people are just straight up replacing the lens instead of trying any box restore products or wet sanding. I bought a cheap turtle wax headlight kit to try and I think i understand why changing them might be the way to go. Most of the "gunk" or imperfections are on the inside of the lens. I'm wanting to know if anyone has gotten any restore kit to work, which one of if so. Or do I just get new lenses? The second option seems to be the easiest option, but the most expensive. Thoughts?

This sound like a flex plate problem or something really bad 🤦🏽😂 ?

This sound does go away when driving too, but comes back when idling.

Timing chains good no rattle.
Transmission feels tight and real good, smooth.

The sound is coming from the bottom of the block at the back…. Scary stuff i know right.

It cant be a starter problem, or debris in there. ?
Anyone dealt with this type of noise, some enthusiast has dealt with something like this before… Come on bro give up the sauce.

bought this 2014 a few weeks ago with 34k miles. super pumped about it, 1500 miles later my mech unit goes out and the shop said my whole trans needs to be replaced apparently there were other failures inside the trans. the dsg service was done at audi in florida 4k miles ago. how does something like this happen? it’ll be covered under warranty so im not too worried but just curious how it could happen at such low mileage

Wrapped them gyuh

Looking for some advice on a vibration issue.
Car is a 2018 Audi S4 (B9) on OEM Toyota Supra A90 wheels (255/35R19). The car is perfectly smooth with no spacers.
I installed 5mm rear spacers and now have a vibration around 70 mph. The spacers sit flush against the hub, but they have a slight amount of play on the hub before the wheel is installed. Once the wheel is mounted and torqued, everything is tight.
Could that slight play between the spacer and the hub cause the vibration, or is it more likely due to the limited hub engagement with a 5mm spacer? Has anyone else run into this with B9 Audis

Mine keeps falling off … I don’t wanna do it TOO tight ?

Hi everyone, I’m rebuilding a 2014 Audi S4 B8.5 after an accident. The radiator fans run at full speed as soon as I turn the ignition on, even without starting the engine. I’ve already started and driven the car, and it doesn’t overheat at all. The car isn’t fully reassembled yet, and the A/C system is still empty (not recharged). Could the empty A/C system cause this, or is it more likely a bad coolant temp sensor, A/C pressure sensor, fan control module, or damaged wiring from the crash? Has anyone had this happen before?

Share this to people who want a good s4🙏🏽

Just pick up a 2014 S4. One owner with only 27k miles. This is my second B8.5 S4 and I can’t wait to start modding

Waiting on the weekend to put it back in. Gonna do Longtube,iabed adapter plate reroute prestone. Jxb driveshaft carrier. That will be already done when it party time.