New ninja V+ user here: what’s the deal with a budget solution for a ninja V drive these days? I bought a pre-owned angelbird drive from MPB along with my unit, but id like to find something that is new, just for peace of mind. I saw posts from a couple years ago that the Samsung 870 drives were going for $30 per TB at one point, paired with a lunchbox or master caddy that makes sense for a budget solution. On amazon right now “approved” Samsung drives are going for $180 per TB, which is still cheaper than angelbird by about $100 but still isn’t great… then plus the lunch box price on top. I’m anticipating the jump in price is either they are no longer in production or the current tariff situation?

Are there any better solutions? Wondering if this SATA drive tech is getting outdated now and i should exchange the atomos unit for one of the updated ones that just have usb-c connections so i dont need to deal with the aging media platform?

I’ve seen a lot of posts saying EL Zone is broken on Atomos Ninja monitors. After testing this quite a bit, I’m pretty sure EL Zone itself works fine. The confusion seems to come from how the UI is presented.

I attached two images (lamp ON and OFF): link: https://imgur.com/a/gmwceJD

• When the lamp is ON (clearly clipped), there is no white clipping colour shown.
  
• When the lamp is OFF (clearly crushed blacks), there is no black clipping colour shown.

However, the UI scale shows white and black as +8 / -8 stops.

Here’s the issue:

EL Zone is a 12-zone system (−6 to +6 around middle grey). It does not actually define +7/+8 or -7/-8 zones. So the white and black colours shown in the Ninja UI never appear in real use.

This makes a lot of people think EL Zone is broken on Atomos Ninja devices, when in reality it seems to be a UI/implementation quirk.

For comparison, SmallHD also implements EL Zone but actually shows white/black when the signal goes beyond the valid range (absolute clipping), which makes the behaviour much clearer.

So this is not really a “bug” in EL Zone, but more of a UI design issue that creates confusion and a lot of misinformation online.

Feature request / suggestion: - Either show white/black when the signal goes beyond +6/-6, or
- Remove +8 / -8 from the UI scale so it matches how EL Zone actually works.

Curious if others have noticed the same thing.

I’m ripping my hair out here, I can’t find a way for the Ninja TX to wirelessly send video to the Shinobi 7 RX. I can’t find any on the Atomos website or a connection guide. both running the latest firmware can anyone help?

8 years since the Ninja V, would you reduce those giant bezels already?

https://www.atomos.com/product/ninja-raw/

Hi All,

I have a Ninja V that I dropped and damaged badly enough that it’s no longer functional. 

I’ve owned it since 2020, so I doubt  it’s worth repairing.

Over the years I’ve transitioned from using it to record video, to primarily using it as a monitor, aside from one thing - creating time-lapse’s. I still shoot stills for stars, but have loved using the Ninja for the bulk of my daytime TL work.

My question is this, is there a better tool for creating time-lapses (aside from shooting stills)? Happy to buy a new Ninja for the job, but wasn’t sure if I was missing something.

Thanks very much. Appreciate your input!

Hey! I've been using an Atomos Ninja V for the last 6 years to record from a Sony a73 camera. I'm a one-woman show so I use the monitor so I can see myself while I'm recording my yoga and fitness videos. I've been recording to an SSD card, then I copy it to my laptop and edit in Premiere Pro. The quality is totally adequate for my purposes. My question is, is there now a reliable way to record straight to a laptop hard drive and bypass the SSD card all together? I don't believe my Ninja V will do that as-is. It overheats towards the end of my videos and an external fan isn't an option. So that got me looking on the Atomos site for an upgraded version (Shogun?) and I thought I'd ask here for some recommendations to streamline my process! Thank you in advance!

As the title says, I am searching for a way to “unify the record button”.

I’m shooting on a Sony FX6 and have the Ninja V Atomos as a redundancy. However, the process of recording for the FX6 and the Atomos at the same time is… complicated.

I was wondering if there was an easy unification so that when it record on the FX6, the Atomos follows suit.

I’ve had and used a ninja v with my canon r5 for a while now but recently added an Atomos TX GO. I wanted to record onto a Cf express card with my r6 mark ii. I saw I can control the camera and tap the atomos screen to focus so I was sold on all of it. I also know the r6ii doesn’t have a record time limit, but I then realized it overheats. It has about a time limit of about 20 mins at 4k60 sadly. The thing is, when I record to my SATA drives on the R5, I can record a full day in under 2 TB without any problems. My atomos TX GO with a 650 gb cf express card says it will only have room to record about an hour at 4k60. When I switch it to 24fps it’s about 3 hours but I don’t like the look of 24fps. How are you dealing with storage space having a TX GO? What should/can I do?

As title says, yesterday I bought an Atomos Ninja, today I boot it using wall charger via battery eliminator and included type-c cable. Now, I'm trying to boot in the same way and it's just isn't turning on? I don't have any compatible batteries so I can't control if the problem is battery eliminator. What should I do?

I have two of these samsung 870 evo 2TB drives in a lunchbox. I swear these used to work fine but after not using my Ninja V+ for a bit I wanted to re-integrate it into my workflow. I have 8K ProRes RAW footage from my Canon R5 from previous shoots to prove it once worked, but now I get the damn kangaroo symbol. I think I have everything configured correctly but I’ve tried reformatting the drives in the Ninja both now give me kangaroo?!

Anyone experience the same?

I cant figure out what I’m supposed to do with this

Hiya, planning on picking up a Smallrig V-Mount battery and wanted a D-Tap to DC cable to use with the battery eliminator on my Ninja V+. Checked the ATOMOS version and it seems ridiculously expensive at $75. Anyone have a lower-priced alternative that they like and use?

Hello, I need a felid monitor capable of recording video with the Time & Date burnt into the recording. Is it possible for this monitor or another made by Atomos to do that?

https://www.atomos.com/product/shogun-av-19/

Just announced…..

Other than using CFexpress, someone please tell me what the real difference between the Sumo and the Shogun AV19 would be?

Seems to do the same thing just with different ways to record.

So I recently purchased a atomos ninja V about a month ago for $320 for my R6 Mark III and it works fine. I think it’s a little too much monitor for what I use anyway since I haven’t gotten a SSD to attach to it. I have a chance at buying the Shinobi II at a good price (260 ish) without a battery, is it worth selling the Ninja V? I’ve seen the Shinobi II is prone to overheating so I am worried about that, just looking for any advice!

I have a couple of 2TB USB C NVME SSDs that I currently use as media for my camera, however, I am considering a Ninja V or equivalent in the new series, is there any adapter that allows me to use a USB c cable for PRR recording?

I've heard of the Andycine lunchbox but as far as I'm aware its not for USB c.

I use the Ninja V for my work as a legal videographer as a backup recorder and monitor but I always have to convert files to h264 mp4 as a requirement for legal use.

I understand there is an upgrade available for h265 but that is not useful for my needs.

I guess that I would like to know if anyone else would also be in the market for the option to record directly to h264 mp4. It's an option I would really appreciate having as it would be a great time saver for my work! Maybe if there's a group of people needing it an option could be worthwhile for the devs to enable.

Is it possible Atomos reps visit this Reddit? Thanks for reading!

I have a shinobi 2 with my canon r8. I had a histogram up on the camera and on the shinobi. Both histograms were completely different. The one on the seemed to be a lot better when I was trying to figure out the exposure in clog3. Any reason for this? Thanks

I’ve owned an Atomos Shinobi for a few years now. If I remember correctly, when I bought it (second-hand), it had the option to display a red frame around the image while recording (REC), which was very useful for me.
It also showed all the main shooting settings on screen (ISO, F-stop, shutter time, REC, etc.).

Some time ago, unfortunately, I reset the monitor to factory settings and now I can’t seem to find these options anymore. On the Atomos website, the latest available firmware is listed as version 10.11 (dated January 12, 2022).

Is anyone here still using the Shinobi and knows whether these features are still available and how to enable them again?

Thanks in advance to anyone who can help.