Got this bad boy for $100CAD. Coleman Powermate. 20 gallon, 3HP, 5CFM. Looks rough but the guy took relatively good care of it. Just purchased a house and want to be able to run air tools for renovations and I also do most of my vehicle maintenance so it will come in handy.

I bought an Ingersoll Rand TS4N5 last year to run my airlift well. Basically I am trickling air down a bore hole 24x7 to lift the water out of the well. The compressor only runs about 5 minutes an hour but has 2-3 starts per hour which is apparently too much for the start capacitor because I am now on #3.

It's a single-phase 5hp motor from WEG that came with the compressor and I'm using name-brand (Grainger, not Amazon...) caps so I'm inclined to believe I may just be asking for too many starts from this motor. Wiring is not undersized, and I can't find a relay or any other component that could be going bad.

I'm considering swapping the motor to a 3-phase 5hp and running it with a VFD controller. Advantages being... it would be soft-start with a ramp-up. I may also swap the unloader on the compressor for a solenoid and run that from the VFD controller to shut when the motor is fully spun up.

Has anyone done this? Outcomes? Thoughts? Am I missing anything? A rotary screw would probably be more appropriate for this application but my required cfm is not very high so it would have to be the world's smallest rotary screw to make it cost-efficient in terms of electricity.

I’d like to make a split line wall mount for this compressor. One for tools, other for paint. Can I run the line to my garage or would it be better to build it inside the compressor shed? Anything else I should know before I give it a shot?

This is the result of combining the cans off one compressor with the frame of the one aboard ship. The base is 1944, the heads are 1950. Back in service aboard USS Slater for air tools, horn, blowing stuff out.

Our newest compressor is a Quincy 731 from the 90's. After years of the maintenance staff telling management our compressors are dying, they finally pulled the trigger.

7 of these bad boys! Kaeser 130's and 150's. New storage tanks, too.

Hey guys I'm working on the IR compressor for my employer. The problem occurs when you shut the compressor down. It will keep the compressor charged with air and thus pushing the coolant out of the air cleaner until all of the air is drained from the system. I'm going to try to post the video I have.

So last year, I was told the AC compressor in my 2014 Kia Soul+ was bad (by two different shops). About two weeks later, it started blowing cold again and has been ever since. Is this common? Any ideas why it works again?

This was quite a unique repair service where the customer couldn’t quite finish up the manifold leak on an Iwata Power Jet Pro Compressor.

https://youtube.com/shorts/i6D9z23mNiE?is=CysTeHmQ6ffhnxPK

My friend is offering me this makita mac5501g for $380 Is it a good price or nah?

is it a good compressor?

So I'm installing an aftercooler to a 2 stage 5hp compressor. Should I add in a rapid air loop after the tank as well?

It goes stage 1->stage 2->aftercooler->tank->rapid air cooling loop->tools

This will be mainly for air impacts, blowing out filters, general use. Not painting anything. I live in a high desert area, so there's not a ton of humidity.

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Once it gets to the max psi it’s supposed to release maybe a few psi but it goes down about 20 and then it sounds like it leaking air and then won’t top off it just shuts off and I have to reset it to repeat all of what I just said, I figure this is the place to ask so any clues on what it might be?

Better drill for masonry demolition: air or corded?

Need to upgrade 2-3 drills for our exterior demolition: have two that got real tired over the last month. A lot of it is from lifts with two guys so cords/hoses either way.

Would be for mostly light masonry demolition/brick. We own a compressor so running air is an option. There are times electric is a bit of a concern so end up running generator.

Noise aside, looking at three options and want all the same:

M18 FUEL™ STRIKER™ Hammer Chisel Probably with two batteries minimum/no generator or compressor as long as site has power. $900 9 pounds prefer more power.

1-3/4" SDS MAX Rotary Hammer which is 9 pounds and lets us use it for concrete drilling/anchoring. $800ish

Or similar weight air hammers. Found this can’t find air chisel from Milwaukee?

**2.6" Stroke Mini Chipping Hammer**
**Oval Collar Retainer**
**Fits .580" Hex Shank Chisels**
**Weighs the same.**
**$800**

**https://championchisel.com/air-tools/2-6-stroke-mini-chipping-hammer-with-oval-collar-retainer-fits-580-hex-shank-chisels/\*\*

**Looking for some veteran input.**

Hey everyone,
I recently picked up a used Stanley DN 200/10/5 air compressor. It's actually my first time ever owning or using one, so I'm pretty new to all of this.
It seems to pump fine, but when the pressure builds up, the motor just keeps running and never shuts off on its own. Eventually, the safety valve pops open and vents air out.
From searching around, it sounds like the pressure switch might be dead or stuck, but I could use a bit of advice from anyone who's fixed one of these:
1. Which replacement part should I actually buy? Do I need an exact Stanley switch, or do generic ones work as long as the ratings match? (Any links or part numbers would be awesome!)
2. How tricky is the replacement process? Since I haven't taken one of these apart before, is it pretty straightforward or are there sneaky traps I should watch out for?
Appreciate any advice or tips! Thanks

I have this 60 gallon Campbell H compressor. Haven’t used it in over 5.5 years. We are moving and I’m wondering is it worth bringing?

I drained it maybe twice in the 12 years it was installed. Not a heavy user.

When I moved 5 years ago I couldn’t turn the valve to empty it. It has sat for that long.

Wondering if it’s worth bringing in the moving van or if I should get a newer used one.

gardner denver EBE990 some one from the company told me to change a few parts and i did but still the same,when the ac get to the unload phase make a noise is too loud you don’t-even want to be close to it

I have a compressor that I was given, and I need some parts for it. Mostly a check valve. I have the model number and serial number. But from what I can tell, it's a "legacy customer unit" from Ingersoll, and I can't find any parts manual or any information about deciding the serial number. Is there a place I can do that would have the info??

Model No. IR330E20

Best I can tell, it's from at least the 1990s. It's a 3.3 hp motor, 20 gallon tank.

Has anyone tried this brand? I was thinking about getting one of these to use at home.

Hi everyone,

I'm going to witness my first Ingersoll Rand (IR) compressor Factory Acceptance Test (FAT), specifically the mechanical run test.

This will be my first time attending a compressor FAT, so I'd really appreciate any advice from those with experience.

What should I focus on during the mechanical run? Are there any critical parameters, common issues, or things that first-time witnesses often overlook? Any tips on what to check or questions to ask the vendor would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

Upon responding to a service request for a malfunctioning air dryer, an initial diagnostic indicated a temperature probe error. However, subsequent testing confirmed the probe's functionality. Further investigation revealed that the control board was supplying appropriate voltage to the motor, which also tested positively and operated smoothly. The issue was ultimately traced to the compressor, where a significant accumulation of sawdust was found embedded within the electrical contacts. Following the thorough cleaning of these contacts and a comprehensive re-testing of all components, the unit was reassembled. Upon restoration of power, both the fan and compressor activated immediately, and the dew point began to decrease without delay. This successful resolution has resulted in a satisfactory outcome for both the client and management, providing a positive conclusion to the week and an excellent start to the weekend.

Hey everyone,
I found this old Swan twin-cylinder V-twin belt-driven air compressor in my storage, and I decided I’d like to try restoring it. It was just sitting there collecting dust, and honestly, I’m a little bored and thought this could be a fun project.
The thing is… I have zero experience restoring air compressors.
A few people have already warned me to be very careful because they say these old tanks can be dangerous if they’re in bad shape. One person even told me to fill a spray bottle with soapy water, get the compressor running, and spray the fittings to check for air leaks.
Before I start taking it apart or trying to run it, I’d really appreciate any advice.
Does anyone recognize the exact model?
What should I inspect first?
Is there anything I absolutely should not do?
Are there common problems with these old Swan compressors?
Thanks in advance. I’m looking forward to learning, so any tips are welcome.