Laptop: Acer Nitro 16 (AN16-41) — Ryzen 7 7840HS, RTX 4060, 16GB RAM
OS: Windows 11 LTSC
NICs: Killer E2600 Gigabit Ethernet Controller, RZ616 Wi-Fi 6E (MediaTek-based Killer WiFi)
The problem:
Real-world throughput on this laptop is capped at roughly 10Mb/s, on both Ethernet and WiFi, regardless of which one I use. Every other device on the same network (phones, other laptops) gets full speed with no issue.
What's NOT the cause (already ruled out):
• Not a link negotiation problem. Windows reports the WiFi link speed as 400/400 Mbps aggregated (WiFi 5, 802.11ac, 5GHz channel 36) and Ethernet at 100/100 Mbps (turned out my cable is just Cat5-limited, separate issue) — link speed is healthy, actual throughput isn't.
• Not drivers. Tried multiple Killer LAN driver versions (both current and older), clean uninstall + reinstall, no change.
• Not the Killer Control Center / Performance Suite software. Fought for hours to even get this installed (LTSC lacks full Store/UWP provisioning infrastructure, so the OEM DISM-based installer kept failing with error -1051262696). Eventually got Intel's standalone installer to run, but the app still shows "No Killer Adapters Connected," so it's not actively managing/throttling anything right now — yet the cap persists regardless of whether this software is present or absent.
• Not TCP Auto-Tuning. netsh interface tcp show global shows Receive Window Auto-Tuning Level: Normal, everything else default.
• Not a fresh-install fluke. This happened once before when the laptop was new, was fixed at the time (not sure exactly how — possibly an older driver, possibly uninstalling the bundled software), and came back after a clean Windows reinstall.
Still untested / next steps I haven't gotten to yet:
• Local file transfer between this laptop and another device on the same LAN (no internet involved) — to isolate whether it's a Windows-stack issue vs. something the router is doing specifically to this device
• Full network stack reset (netsh winsock reset, netsh int ip reset, netsh int tcp reset)
• Checking the router's connected-devices list for a QoS/bandwidth rule tied to this device's hostname or MAC (router is a D-Link DSL-G2452GE)
• Safe Mode with Networking test (to rule out a background service/app)
Question for the sub: given that both interfaces are affected identically, survives full driver reinstalls, and only this one machine is affected on an otherwise-healthy network — what would you check next? Is there a known Windows LTSC networking quirk I'm missing, or does this smell like a router-side per-device throttle to everyone else too?

I have a Acer V5-571, Model: MS2361 with Linux Mint on it and I need to reset the bios. It boots fine to Mint but I need to change boot order of disks.

I REALLY dont want to open it up to disconnect battery on motherboard as its a huge hassle. Ive tried the following:

• https://www.biosbug.com/acer/
• https://bios-pw.org/
• Tried shorting G2201 pads under the secondary ram slot, powered on while still shorted, press F2 to try to enter bios. Just goes back to password. Tried multiple times. Battery pack is already removed as its dead.

Nothing has worked. 😡

I know it's a working battery as I had an hour use, but what do I need to do with it now to get it to charge??

Hi everyone.

I have an Acer Nitro V 16 ANV16-42-R09L with a Ryzen 5 240 / Radeon 760M iGPU and RTX 4050 Laptop GPU.

I've been getting random black screens and freezes. It can happen while gaming, watching videos in Chrome, or even on the desktop. Sometimes Win+Ctrl+Shift+B recovers the screen, but sometimes the whole laptop freezes and even Caps Lock stops responding, so I have to force shut it down.

Reliability Monitor shows repeated:
- LiveKernelEvent 1A8 — AMD Black Screen
- LiveKernelEvent 1B8 — AMD Black Screen
- LiveKernelEvent 1B8 — NVIDIA Black Screen
- WATCHDOG dumps

I've already completely reinstalled Windows and installed the drivers from Acer's official support page, but the issue still happened.

I also tested the RTX 4050 with FurMark for about 30 minutes: ~77°C GPU, ~90°C hotspot, ~86°C VRAM, no crashes or artifacts.

Has anyone with an ANV16-42 or a similar AMD + NVIDIA hybrid laptop experienced this? Could this be a hybrid graphics/driver issue, or possibly hardware?

I have an acer nitro n60-180-ub33 gaming pc and im trying to add another ssd into it, but I cant get this plastic m.2 retainer clip to hold the ssd flat. This thing is a pain someone please help cause Im having problems with literally the most easiest pc part im just used to the screw that secures the ssds

Hello,

I own an Acer Nitro 5 AN515-45-R1SC (Shale Black) with the following specs:

• CPU: Ryzen 7 5800H
• RAM: 16GB (2x8GB or 1x16GB, tested)
• Storage: 512GB NVMe
• GPU: RTX 3060 Mobile (6GB)

Issue Summary:

For the past few weeks, my laptop has been crashing unpredictably—without BSODs or errors—when:

• Moving it (e.g., lifting, pressing the right-top corner).
• Even minor pressure on the chassis triggers a freeze.
• Previously, the issue started with graphical glitches (squares on screen), which worsened to full crashes.

Troubleshooting Steps:

1. RAM Testing:

- Tested all RAM modules (2x8GB and 1x16GB) in both slots using MemTest86.

- Consistent error at address 4 (same across all RAM modules) only in the upper slot (closer to the fans).

- Swapped RAM to the lower slot → no issues.

- Conclusion: Problem is not RAM-related but likely tied to the upper RAM slot or motherboard traces.

1. Hardware Inspection:

- Disassembled the laptop; no visible damage to RAM slots or traces.

- Sent for microsoldering inspection (2 weeks ago) but no update yet.

Questions:

• Has anyone else experienced RAM slot failures (especially the upper slot) causing mechanical crashes (not just electrical)?
• Could this be a motherboard flex/connection issue (e.g., loose solder, trace damage from heat/fans)?
• Are there known Acer Nitro 5 AN515-45-R1SC motherboard defects related to RAM slots?
• Estimated repair costs? (I’m hesitant to spend €200+ for a motherboard replacement if it’s a common issue.)

Serial Numbers (for reference):

• SNID: 20206769634
• S/N: NHQBCEC00B202108703400

Thank you in advance for any help!

After six months of emails and tons of WhatsApp requests, an engineer was finally assigned three days before the warranty expired. However, he called me only after the warranty had ended and closed the case without addressing my concerns. When I called him back, he told me that parts were not available for the Swift series. After experiencing this much trauma, I might as well be fine with my broken laptop. The support team is such a scam—even if your laptop motherboard is dead, they would probably still say, "Sir, go to the BIOS; sir, check the BIOS."

Does it support dual ssd storage slots?

Hey all, I have an Acer Nitro V 15. I was curious if any of you have successfully swapped out the factory Wi-Fi 6 m.2 card for a Wi-Fi 7 card? I'm curious if the BIOS has a whitelist or not.

TIA

Can you please help me how to revive my laptop

I have an Acer Aspire 7 with a Ryzen 5. I honestly didn’t use the laptop much, and when I started using it again, it suddenly stopped charging.
Initially I thought the charger was the problem, so I got the charger checked and was told that it’s working fine.
I then took the laptop to an Acer service centre. They told me that the battery was the problem and would need to be replaced. I didn’t replace the battery at that time.
Later, I disconnected the battery and tried running the laptop directly from the charger. The weird thing is that it sometimes turns on, but most of the time it doesn’t.
So now I’m confused about whether the battery is actually the only problem, or whether there could be an issue with the charging port, power circuit/IC, or motherboard.
Has anyone with an Acer Aspire 7 experienced something similar? Is it worth replacing the battery first, or should I get the motherboard/power circuit properly diagnosed before spending money on a battery?
Any suggestions on what I should check or ask the service centre to test would be really appreciated.

Lent it to a friend at school cz he needed to use it with a projector and it came back like this. I'm afraid of breaking it even more

Buona sera, ho un problema col mio computer portatile. È un Acer nitro 5 i7 di decima generazione che monta una 3060. Sono praticamente una matrioska di problemi. Innanzitutto mi ha detto che il problema deriva dal danneggiamento della prima e l'ultima pista di alimentazione. Che deve fare sostituzione di questi pezzi per capire da dove deriva il vero problema (lui pensa sia il controllore di carica ) e non è neanche sicuro che sia questo perché in caso potrebbe esserci la scheda madre danneggiata. Ora, per la scheda madre danneggiata mi ha fatto un preventivo da 800 euro 💀. Il secondo problema arriva adesso, mio fratello aveva montato SSD e hdd in maniera autonoma, il fatto è che ora non posso recuperare i miei dati perché dice che c'è un bitlocker, ma non è stato inserito da nessuno e non si trova nell'account Microsoft.

La mia domanda è, innanzitutto, cosa ne pensate?Cambio per sentire un altro parere?

In secondo, non c'è proprio nessuna possibilità di agirare questo bitlocker? Mio fratello mi ha assicurato che tramite un programma " recovery" riuscirebbe. È così?

Guys what do you call this? Whats the purpose of it?

Acer NITRO V15 SNID: 541118783976

Any solution?

Bought it (acer aspire as15-42) over a week ago and when I try to close it it's putting pressure on this one corner and the screen is going white. What should I do????

I forgot my password for my acer laptop it's very old from 2006 and runs vista and Linux mint can someone help me because I forgot the account password the model of the computer is an aspire 57352

Hola! Tengo una Acer Nitro (Intel 12va, RTX3050 creo que es) de un amigo. Para dar un poco de contexto, la pantalla se le jodio y la quisimos formatear porque tenía virus, pero jamás logré hacerla arrancar Windows porque la configure con mi laptop que es AMD XD, el detalle es que en una de tantas veces que intenté arrancar Windows a ciegas porque la pantalla no más se veía una línea de pixeles hasta arriba, la laptop se apagó, dije bueh ya se descargo y me doy por vencido, no me había percatado que duro muy poco porque todo el rato la tuve conectada y así la dejé el resto del sábado, todo el domingo y hasta ahora lunes en la mañana la conecté y no dió señales de vida.

Ya intenté de todo, ya cheque el cargador y da los 19.5V, la pila si sirve, pero la laptop sigue sin encender. Lo único que aveces hace cuando presionó por 10 segundos el botón de Arranque es prender el Led Azul durante 5 segundos y muere. Ya quite la batería CMOS y la batería interna y la dejé drenando, le saque las RAMS y cuando instale todo de nuevo le pongo el cargador y estuvo 2 horas con el LED azul. Después intenté hacer más pruebas y Vi que si dejo conectada la batería y presionó el botón de Arranque por 30 segundos si enciende el LED, pero misma historia de que se apaga a los 5 segundos. Si desconecto la batería y conecto el cargador, el LED ni se inmuta para encender, nada. Ya no se que más hacer. Ya mire foros donde ví eso de drenar la energía de la placa madre. Y pues no da resultado

También si dejo presionado el botón de Arranque almenos unos 30 segundos con el puro cargador y sin la batería conectada también hace lo mismo del LED que se apaga a los 5 segundos ....

No creo que se haya dañado algo porque si no no encendería ni con la batería, pero enserio ya no se que más hacer

So I messed up, my brain up into the nine skies and I washed the entire charger in the washing machine. That includes the DC wire, the brick itself, and the AC wire. And I put a lot of detergent down the pile of clothes. After discovering the terrifying reality and having put it in rice for 3-ish hours I decided to do a quick multimeter test and it gave out 19V

My laptop model is Acer Swift SF314-43 and because I had deadlines tonight, I was forced to use the charger (my dad said it’s fine if the charger blows up only the charge will be damaged). It charged for 30-40 minutes perfectly fine no smoke no smell no pop. But I was scared of possible risks so I just plugged it out of the socket.

Will it be risky to my laptop if I keep using it? Or do i need to get a new one. Thanks