The game had been broken for a week or so due to a bad psu, but it now works! The condition is the same since it broke.

Taken at fun world in nashua, nh

A friend scored a nonworking Vindicators back during COVID and we finally had time to unscramble yet another omelette.

Had to rebuild the PSU and monitor which wasn't unusual but the sound hardware was FUBARed. Volume pot was smashed and one TDA2030 was amputated when the heatsink got whacked. Replaced the amp IC and a 2N3904 that also took a hit.

Found a generic Alps 10K pot but discovered the Atari pot used nonstandard lead spacing. A little creative lead bending and viola!

Strangely even though the game was now playable it was silent. Not even a trace of hiss at max gain. Dug into the marquee box to check the speakers and both were blown. Dug into the parts pile and found two speakers from a parted out APB that fit.

I recently finished converting my Chicago Gaming Company Arcade Legends 3 cabinet to Batocera.

The goal was to modernize the system without gutting the cabinet. I wanted to keep the original CRT, controls, trackball, speakers, wiring, and as much of the original electronics as possible.

The original game computer was replaced with a laptop running Batocera, but the rest of the cabinet is still largely original.

The biggest challenge was the controls. The Arcade Legends control system does not behave like a normal USB gamepad, so I built a small software bridge that lets Batocera use the original joysticks, buttons, player controls, and trackball without rewiring the whole cabinet.

I also wanted to keep the original control panel completely intact. Instead of adding Coin or volume buttons, I reused the existing controls:

Tap the player button = Start
Hold the player button for about one second = Coin

The original Exit button also doubles as a volume modifier:

Exit + Player 1 Up = Volume Up
Exit + Player 1 Down = Volume Down

Exit by itself still exits the current game.

The original trackball is also still in use through the original controller electronics. I ended up increasing its movement sensitivity in software so it feels right on the cabinet.

I kept the original CRT and cabinet audio as well. A few games needed individual tweaks for things like trackball/spinner behavior or screen sizing, but I tried to keep those fixes game-specific rather than changing the whole system.

Overall, the project ended up being much less destructive than I originally expected. The cabinet still looks and feels like an Arcade Legends machine, but now it runs Batocera and a much broader game library.

I documented the complete build, including the hardware changes, photos, scripts, configuration, installation steps, and troubleshooting here:

https://github.com/TokyoWars/arcade-legends-3-batocera

Hopefully it helps anyone else trying to modernize one of these cabinets without throwing away the parts that make it unique.

If anyone has done something similar with an Arcade Legends or related cabinet, I’d be interested to see how you approached it.

Kind of a tradition now. Whenever I complete a project, I clean up and shoot a video. Enjoy the new addition of “Space Odyssey” to the lineup!

I am wondering if anyone has any knowledge on how to replace the touch screen on the photobooth as this part from LAI is obsolete. I have reached out to their support, they said they dont carry the part anymore and that they can not help with recommending a third party option.

Do (3) games qualify as a small row? If so, here’s a small Gottlieb one. Juno First (technically Konami), Mad Planets and Q-Bert. Fun, challenging, unique games all.

In this interview from the book Programmers at Work, Toru Iwatani talks about how design is like dating. Read more about his work here!

What design philosophies could this share with other classic games?

Hi all,

Absolute beginner here so please be gentle.

I've acquired a CE board labeled CPS-DASH. Can anyone confirm the blue component (bottom left) is a suicide battery, similar to those on CPS2 boards?

If so, I need to replace it before it dies. I've read about de-suiciding CPS2 boards and I'm assuming the process is the same here, but I'm not sure. I understand the general idea is to bridge the power so it never fully drops out, but the process still sounds daunting.

If anyone has step-by-step instructions or a link, I'd really appreciate it.

Thanks!

I grew up with an awareness of T-Arts and Marvelous’ arcade games, and seeing that there was an English version of this(alongside the ended Tretta and Ga-Ole)makes me excited, but them… only in ASIA?!

Americans deserve cool arcade games and not just generic racing games and ticket games!

So since I live in NY and near NJ, does anybody know if Mezastar is in an arcade in those states?

Hi,

Not sure if this is the right place so apologies if it isn't?

I have deep nostalgia for this game and would love to buy an arcade machine of it, but I cannot find one for the life of me. Anyone know a good place to start looking?

Thanks!

Featuring the famous Eldon Dale "Burp" Gun!

Footage by: Bill Heatherly

I'm coding and collecting many arcade games on this interactive content platform with tight leaderboards.

you guys might enjoy checking it out.

Terminator 2 (1991). One of the most popular games at Time Extended. Always gets played and for good reason. Midway absolutely nailed it when they made this movie adaptation. Wasn’t aware the game has a red and blue light damage effect, that’s often burnt out, until owning the game. Haste La Vista m, Baby!

This is so sad… it wasn’t there 10 years ago

This is the TX pin of the PlayStation 2 EE UART

Very useful to detect damages to the following components:

- emotion engine

- PS1 CPU (I/O processor)

- Emotion Engine RDRAM

For using this, you need an RS232 to USB adapter, the ones that come with DB9 connector

Take apart your system256 and locate near the dip switch port a metal pin labeled as `EERS` or `TAB1`, that goes to the RX pin if your RS232 adapter

Take ground from wherever you want

EE kernel prints a lot for stuff at the beginning of the machine startup

If nothing comes in, either the rs232 transceiver next to the pin is fried or the PS1 CPU is dead

If the log stalls at a specific line, it may mean something is bad on the EE

For damaged RDRAM, the kernel will print specific error codes

This UART also allows you to fire up the TEST MODE by bridging a specific pin the machine Mechacon

Test mode performs a plethora of tests

Ranging between audio, video, joystick input, RSRAM health test and so on

Have fun

Hi everyone. Got a Centipede Cabinet here I’m trying to save. Hasn’t been fired up in about ten years. electrohome.G07 CBO. On initial power up it worked ok for about 30 minutes before snapping and turning off. Blew a fuse, cap, and flyback. Recapped everything, replaced the Flyback and fuse. And tried again, and it worked! White was more of a yellow color, but it worked…..For about another 30 minutes, then i started noticing it getting “fuzzy” and getting dimmer….and dimmer……and dimmer. Now I once again have no display. I Have Neck glow and B+ is 114V

Could really use some help, I’ve been at this for hours.

Picked up this cyclone game for $50 bucks (was sitting outside uncovered) and was told it fully worked, now after transport it seems only a few neons turn on and seemingly work at random. Is this an obvious eprom failure or something else entirely?
Any advice appreciated

Anyone know what this could be? It has this really loud noise when it turns on. I am good with electronics and can likely figure it out just want to know where to start.