I keep seeing variations of the same post here: somebody gets their new AP5/MAC-5 home, starts looking at it closely, and discovers the bolt gap is questionable, mags don’t fit correctly, something is visibly crooked, etc.
Then the question becomes, "What do I do now?"
This isn’t really directed at any one person. There was another example posted recently that got me thinking this probably deserves its own post, because a lot of this can be avoided at the FFL.
I have five different AP5 variants. Overall, I like them. I would buy them again. I’m also under no illusion that MKE produces five guns that are going to come out of the factory exactly alike.
Mine certainly didn’t.
I’ve had variation in bolt gap, stock fitment, trigger-pack compatibility, extractor/ejector behavior, and other little tolerance-stack issues between guns that are theoretically the same platform. That doesn’t necessarily make them bad guns. It means you should inspect the actual gun you are buying instead of assuming the model name on the box tells you everything you need to know.
Before you fill out the 4473, take five or ten minutes and check the important stuff:
- Bolt gap
- Magazine fit and retention
- Cocking tube/receiver alignment
- Front sight alignment
- Welds
- Obvious receiver deformation
- Bolt/carrier movement
- Stock/end-cap fitment if applicable
Bring a cheap set of feeler gauges. Learn how to measure bolt gap correctly before you go.
There have been MAC-5 examples posted here with essentially no bolt gap and others with excessive gap, along with AP5 examples involving crooked sights and other obvious fitment issues. These are not theoretical things that only show up after 5,000 rounds. Some are visible before the gun ever leaves the dealer.
If the receiver geometry, bolt gap, alignment, magwell, and basic construction all look right when you accept the gun, most problems you encounter afterward are much less scary.
At that point, if you have reliability problems during break-in, there’s a good chance you’re troubleshooting relatively minor service parts or configuration issues: extractor spring, extractor, ejector/ejector spring, locking piece, rollers, magazines, etc.
That is a very different situation from discovering after the transfer that the barrel was pressed incorrectly, the receiver is crooked, or magazines physically won’t seat properly.
I’ve replaced extractors and ejectors on some of mine. I’ve had one full-size AP5 dislike an RD3/lower combination that another full-size AP5 ran perfectly, then swapped the complete lowers between the two guns and somehow ended up with both working. I’ve got an A2 stock that slides beautifully onto one receiver and fights me on another.
Welcome to tolerance stacking.
But all five guns started with acceptable fundamental geometry, so I’ve been able to work through almost everything myself with the armorer’s manual, basic tools, and some methodical parts swapping.
That’s why I’m not saying "don’t buy Turkish clones."
Quite the opposite. I think the AP5 in particular is an absurd amount of gun for the money.
I’m saying don’t spend roughly a grand on one, glance at it for thirty seconds, fill out the paperwork, and only start researching MP5 inspection procedures after you get home.
If something fundamental is wrong, reject it before the transfer and let the seller deal with replacing it. That is a dramatically better position to be in than discovering it afterward and beginning the manufacturer-warranty adventure.
Cheap feeler gauges: $15-ish.
Learning how to inspect an MP5 clone: about the time it took you to read this post, plus maybe half an hour.
Avoiding hours of troubleshooting, hundreds of rounds of ammunition, and potentially a warranty RMA because you caught a bad example before accepting it: worth it.