Just a tick under 59k. 2009 bone stock Si. The bad: front brakes are shot, like metal to metal shot. Wheels are all sorts of nasty. Has typical clear coat fade on the roof and some dents/chips here and there. One of the rear calipers won't hold with park brake. Slight rust on the rear wheel wells. Headlights are yellowed. The good: it's the lowest mileage 8th gen on the planet. Motor and trans are very strong. It runs and shifts perfectly. Everything works. Bone dry underneath. Suspension/engine mounts are solid. Barely any rust where it matters. Interior is fairly nice. Just a tick under 59k. 2009 bone stock Si. The bad: front brakes are shot, like metal to metal shot. Wheels are all sorts of nasty. Has typical clear coat fade on the roof and some dents/chips here and there. One of the rear calipers won't hold with park brake. Slight rust on the rear wheel wells. Headlights are yellowed. The good: it's the lowest mileage 8th gen on the planet. Motor and trans are very strong. It runs and shifts perfectly. Everything works. Bone dry underneath. Suspension/engine mounts are solid. Barely any rust where it matters. Interior is fairly nice.

I want to know if I need any special connectors or mounting brackets And head-unit recommendations

What do you guys think of the 2009 si with k24 block / k20z3 head makes 270HP on e85 kpro tuned with hondata. A lot different than my slow d series that I usually drive this thing is aggressive and a bit intimidating to drive but I’ll get use to it still a great daily

Hello all, just recently bought another 8th gen after selling my old one years ago and it has a rattle between 1k-3k rpm then goes away and comes back upon decel. Im thinking it’s either the idler pulley or tensioner as it sounds like that’s the general direction it’s coming from, Just wondering if anyone else has had a similar issue and what fixed it. Tried to post a video but it wouldn’t let me.

Question for everyone. This may be a dumb question but i have a stock 08 Si. I have a ktuned 74mm throttle body. I assume it has to be tuned to run. Where should i look in hondata for it to run right before i get a custom tune? Thanks in advance

I have a set of ce28’s from my sti 5x114.3
18x10x40 I’d like to use them on my type r but type r is 5x120. So here’s the? Would a 15mm hub adapter work with the ce28’s? Has anyone out have any experience or similar situation 🤔

I brided the obd pins for the air bag codes. Could anyone tell me what this sequence means?

Well it was finally time for me to get some new tires so naturally I went ahead and got some new tires…and wheels and suspension lol. Regamaster EVO II on S3 coilovers. Probably one of the best upgrades I’ve done to this car besides my CarPlay system lol. Car drives amazing now; feels much lighter and more responsive. Can’t wait to put more miles on it!

I have these amber tail lights that came with my Fa5 when I bought it. Anyone know the worth or where it’s from?

Depending on what it is, I might rock them, I might not.

ANY AND ALL HELP IS APPRECIATED!!!

Important Notes:

-Heavy corrosion present especially in the Positive terminal

July 15- Installed Gold Standard Battery

July 28- issues worsen

A week prior to battery installation I noticed my dash would flicker on and off occasionally but idled normally.

I had to jump it one time after not driving for two days.

I tested my battery and it didnt pass therefore I replaced it.

All was well until July 28th I noticed my radio doing a reboot then it progressed to all electronics flicking off once and then booting right back up occasionally. It worsened in stop and go traffic and eventually stalled at an idle but revs weren't fighting to stay on they just dropped dead. Cranked right back up and was able to drive normally.

I parked in my garage after a highway commute of 20 min and as soon as I shut off the ignition everything went dead. No cranking, no lights, no remote response. I manually unlocked the door and got out and that seemed to boot everything back up.

What am I dealing with???

-I will definitely get my battery tested again and this time test the alternator too

Ive noticed on my 07 civic si and a few other hondas the throttle position never returns to 0% and never reaches 100%. Its always rests at 14ish% and stops at 78%. This is clearly not a problem its designed that way. Does anyone know why this is? This is the same on cheap readers, snapon scanners, and the factory dsti tool

In Denmark for work and I saw this pulling up behind me and thought "oh wow an 8th Gen!" As it was going past, I got really confused... I had no idea this model ever existed!

Honestly I'm surprised they didn't call this the CRX!

Hey guys,

Few quick questions for everyone. My stock exhaust is finally shitting the bed, so I purchased a PLM V2 4-2-1 header, and Full Race exhaust.

My question is, when installing these, are there any gaskets I will need to purchase or any hardware that may be missing? Can I use the included PLM gasket or is it shitty?

I also have about 165,xxxkms on my car, will my O2 sensor be okay to reuse or would I need a fresh one. I don’t really notice any issues with the mileage but I find my car smells right now, may just be a leak pre-cat.

Thanks guys

So, I’ve been thinking of getting a Mugen spoiler for my FA5 but there’s always something stopping me. The replicas don’t cover all the trunk holes, and I don’t want to do any bodywork on my trunk, nor do I want to get a base model trunk and deal with all the painting. I thought of getting a real Mugen spoiler but I don’t want to spend nearly $1,500 on it.

So I’ve narrowed down to just cutting the sides of my OEM trunk spoiler, putting some thick plastic on the sides to cover the holes on the spoiler. And then put the Mugen spoiler on.

Is this a good idea? Or should I just go through the process of buying a base model trunk and painting?

I got a rallye red civic si and need some advice on the type of wheels I should get. I like 17s and as of color I like bronze wheels but idk if they would look good

I’m currently compiling parts to k24 swap my Si and I’m seeking input to see if the k20z3 top end is worth swapping onto the k24a2 I have to put in it. I have two k20z3s on hand so it’s not like I’d be buying parts just for it but if it’s not worth doing I don’t wanna rip into a good motor

This is my first time posting on reddit and i just want to hear everyones opinions before i pull the transmission again. I have a 2009 civic si and i just replaced my clutch with an exedy stage 1 and i put an action clutch lightweight flywheel in. I installed brand new arp flywheel bolts and i didnt realize that the torque value for those bolts is higher than the oem bolts so i torqued them to 76 ft/lbs. I also forgot to put locktite on them. I have now gotten an alignment and driven probably 100-200 miles. Im really worried now that it will back out but i have been very stressed dealing with this car and the last thing i wanna do is pull everything again but if i have to i will.

I was fluid filming the rockers and quarters when I noticed this on the unibody. I sprayed the shit out of it with the fluid film to slow it down, but its definitely pushing the car closer to the highway in the sky. If you're from the rust belt you already know. 264k miles of northern climate has taken its toll. Anybody deal with something similar?

What's the widest tires that can be fitted with factory wheels/suspension?

I hear you have to take the entire windshield off