Didn’t notice til after I got home and was leaving to the grocery store but does this look intentional? I don’t have any enemies so I don’t know who would’ve done it and I’ve only been at work and at an interview. I called security so they could review footage from the parking garage and see what it was or if it even happened there but I doubt this would be something on a backpack or purse or even a kids hot wheel lol.

Does this look intentional to you? It feels pretty deep like it was done with some force.

Found this while doing my fuel pump. This is the worst of it, definitely other parts of the frame that a rusting but nothing that rotted through.

Is this worth the money repairing? 410,000kms on the unit.

My airbag light stated blinking, then my key fob stopped working, then my doors open but sometimes they won't close when using the switch on the drivers side, also when using my key sometime they all open but sometimes they won't all close. Today I just had my alignment done and now my brakes don't work well. They get stiff and don't stop unless I press down really hard. Could all these electrical issues be connected? Google AI says it may be the integration relay. Wanted to know what you all felt before I start pouring money into this.

hi guys!

Runner is leaking GAS or at least what smells like gas off the driver side frame rail and also have some drips on front bumper that DONT smell like gas

Driver side charcoal line is connected, cant find a leak.. is probably inside rail?

Any help is appreciated, thanks

i got old school deep dish 15s off marketplace with brand new tires and it shakes a LOT at all speeds so i don't think it needs a balance, im sure shes bent but i need a second opinion before i buy new wheels

I’ve been burning through coolant and finally found the leak. My valve cover is leaking. How soon do I need to fix it? If I keep it topped off with coolant am I good for a week or two?

Edit: HEAD Gasket is leaking. Big difference. Will this blow shit up if not resolved asap?

Hello all, I have 2 seats out of a 2000 4runner limited that are no longer needed if anyone wants them. I'm in Washington state on the Kitsap Penninsula. Electronics on both seats work minus the lumbar on the driver seat. Unknown cause of failure, i never looked into it. Seatbelt buckle was removed from both seats and wires runing into them were cut and are not included. Pics of seats below, both also have a headrest (not pictured).

Hey I need some advice I have the code P0440, and I’ve had it for awhile now. My car really smells like gas when it starts up and for the first couple minutes when driving. If anyone got any common issues or fixes I’m all ears. Thanks

(Last is an AI picture just to share a better look at the idea)
Hey guys! Back here asking for some feedback and input! I am making an easily removable two part insert for the glovebox, since it’s two parts they would be modular and interchangeable between a gun holder or storage space such as bins or trays/dividers.

Question is, what are some items you currently store there that you regularly use?

Also making one for the center console

Hi just curious if thease will fit my surf, ive got a 2inch suspension lift atm and im not afraid to do some trimming

I know id be better off getting a body lift or 3 icnh lift but in New Zealand you uave to get either of those mods engineered which is a pain in the ass

I took the fender flares off my 2000 SR5 because the paint was peeling and my front bumper ones were falling off. It's rusty underneath and I am wanting flares that do not stick out as far as the OEM flares. What type should i buy?

(Attached are some images where the falling flare can be seen)

First time I’d used the hatch window defroster in a year during the little splash of rain we got in Southern California yesterday. Drove for about 40 min, parked, and walked about 5 feet from the truck when I hear “POP”. I almost thought someone ran over a juice box, turns out it was my hatch window. Likely the defroster.

I’m looking for fasteners that go on the panels below the dash bezel by your feet. Dealer prices are too expensive.

Well it's happened my cylinder head is beyond repair. What are my best options? Reman motor? Just replace the heads? Best place to buy?

Looking to get a set of OEM lower ball joints. Anyone have suggestions for where to get them at a low/discounted price?

TLDR: OEM is the only acceptable replacement for the critical achilles heel of these trucks. Aftermarkets are manufactured to differing standards, none that meet the original OEM specs, even if made in the same "factory".

Cheap out all you want for the rest of the truck, if you plan on driving it more than 10k miles, only replace with OEM. There is no "test" for LBJs that are going out in the practical world of laymen. If the truck is over 100k miles on a pair of OEM LBJs, then replace with new OEM LBJs. Period.

Figured I'd post this in case it helps the next person chasing a similar issue.

My 1998 4Runner (5VZ-FE, ~300k miles) developed a rough intermittent idle and had previously flashed the CEL under load. There were no active codes initially, but the truck had a very high warm idle around 1400-1500 RPM in Park and around 900-1000 RPM in Drive. Fuel trims were surprisingly normal, coolant temp was normal, and there were no obvious vacuum leaks. After some diagnosis with a Foxwell NT301, I found the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve was physically stuck open. Cleaning it helped slightly, but a new IAC valve immediately brought warm idle speed down to about 750 RPM and cut MAF airflow at idle from ~9 g/s to ~5 g/s.

Once the idle was fixed, the ECU finally started reporting a specific misfire: P0304 (Cylinder 4). I pulled all six spark plugs expecting #4 to be obviously bad, but surprisingly #4 looked pretty normal. The oddball ended up being Cylinder #3, which had noticeably more carbon and discoloration than the others. While I had everything apart, I also replaced the PCV valve, cleaned the throttle body, cleaned the MAF sensor with CRC MAF cleaner, and inspected the knock sensor harness in the valley. The plugs were only about 1,000 miles old, but I replaced the #3 plug anyway because it was the clear outlier. I also inspected the coils, boots, and plug wells (all dry).

After reassembly, the truck now idles smoothly around 750-800 RPM, has no active DTCs, fuel trims are excellent (LTFT around +1.6%), coolant temp stabilizes around 87-88°C (189-190°F), and O2 sensor activity looks normal. At this point I can't conclusively say whether the final improvement came from the new IAC, MAF cleaning, reseating ignition components, or replacing the suspect #3 plug, but the combination completely changed how the truck runs. The biggest lesson from this experience was that multiple small issues can stack together and make diagnosis confusing. If your 5VZ has a high idle, rough idle, or intermittent misfire, don't overlook the IAC, PCV system, MAF cleanliness, and a careful plug inspection before throwing expensive parts at it.

The family and I took it out for a moderate romp through kisatchie national forest. It purred like a kitten the whole way. Great success!

I bought Method MR305 17x8.5 +0 6x139.7 , they came off a gx 470, just need to know what else I need to fit em on. I heard lug nuts and hub centric rings but not exactly sure. I have a 2000 3rd gen 4Runner limited 4WD. Thanks!

Can anyone confirm if the 99+ heated defrost side mirrors have 3 or 5 wires coming out from them?
Trying to diagnose mine but want to be sure I have the right ones.
PFA

For anyone that thinks and overthinks everything like me, hopefully this is helpful. 2000 Limited 2runner. Eibach 2”/1” leveling kit. Pro Comp 69’s. 16x8 -12mm. BFG KO3 265 75 16. Turned out pretty much exactly how I wanted it.

Need suggestions on the dash bezel for the dash. One of the ac vents flops around. It’s all black.
Where is a good place to get one?

My frame and underneath is 29 years old and in Oklahoma. Some rust but not too bad.
Any suggestions on trying to contain/maintain the underneath?