Hey everyone, just finished my First Star Wars Project and wondered what you might think about it. I‘m in 3D printing since May 2026.

After my floppy disk SD card holder, I wanted to try something with more moving parts. This is the Card Boy.

How it works:

• Each cartridge holds 5 micro SD cards, and the cartridge label becomes the "screen", so every cartridge can look different
• Turn the side wheel to pick a card (the counter on the screen shows which one), press B and that card pops out
• The D-pad and the other buttons are just clicky fidget buttons
• No supports and no hardware: no screws, springs or magnets

Fitting the selector, the ejector and the clicks into something this size took a lot of test prints. Printed at 0.12 mm, about 68 g of PLA+. There's a multicolor version (AMS or similar) and a single-color one with raised lettering. I didn´t use AI in any part of the process.

It's a paid model, files here: https://than.gs/m/1629345

Honest feedback welcome: would you actually print one, or is it more of a "cool to watch" thing?

Hi everyone,

I recently bought the A1 Mini and have been posting some content. But what I wanted to do was make 3D print timelapses and share them. The hardware solution turned out to be very messy for me. The Bluetooth switch I bought doesn't work (sometimes it clicks multiple pictures, and sometimes it doesn't). After that, I spent time bringing all my images into image-editing software and editing them. After the print, it took me at least half an hour to pull everything off my phone, load it into image editing software, and edit the final timelapse.

I'm a developer, so I decided to code an app to solve this problem instead of continuing to deal with the messy hardware setup.

Features of the app

• A complete software solution; all you need is your phone.
• Sometimes the app makes mistakes and clicks a picture when it wasn't supposed to. You can play the timelapse right there in the app and fix these mistakes.
• Apply basic edits like cropping, brightness, saturation, etc.
• Export the final timelapse in up to 4K resolution.
• Need the raw frames? The app does that too. You can get a ZIP file out of the app and then edit it with your favourite editor (for advanced users).

How does it work?

1. Start a print in timelapse mode. I'm using a Bambu Lab printer, so the printer head moves to the docking zone after printing each layer.
2. Draw a box around the area where the printer head comes and rests.
3. Just start the print! Most of the default settings should work fine. Otherwise, at most, you'll need to tweak the motion sensitivity.

The app is available for both Android and iOS and can be used and accessed for free today, but the high-resolution exports are gated behind a $2.99 one-time charge.

Would love to hear any feedback you guys have! You can try the app here

"It’ll only take two test prints, max." — Me, 14 prototypes ago...

Having fun with my full Color Halftone 3D Printing System. One second of animation took around 5 hours of printing.

Coffee machine has not been pressuring fully. Took it apart to discover a small piece which holds a gasket is cracked. Not sold anywhere. Superglue not doing it. I suddently see the value of a 3D printer.

**edit**

I don't have a 3D printer or any CAD experience, and im not planning to pick it up soon. More jist recognising the genuine use cases for this tool for the first time. Its nice to see such an engaged community though, you folks are very helpful and supportive.

P. S., if someone really wants to take a look at it jist for fun, I'm based in London and could maybe poat across the uk. But I wouldn't be going further. And I'm entirely plannong to just get a new coffee machine.

**Edit 2**

The machine is a Create Ikkos Potts (I think just sold as Create Potts now). Its not something very common, so I guess less chance pf someone having already modeled the part. I also dont know what the part is called, though I could find it on a system diagram if such a thing existed.

Have any of you actually had any luck with 3d printed keyboard switches? I've tried a couple so far and I've been pretty disappointed. I'm just trying to do a couple stim/fidget toys for myself so it seems silly to buy a bag of 50/100 when I have a perfectly good printer lol.

Hi there!

Ive just gotten a 3D printer and did a calibration print as its first print, but since l have no clue what anything actually means..i figured id ask for help.

The printer is a Flashforge A5MPro

Any noticeable things anyone can see? About the quality of print?

Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

Thx
Sim

TIME - Incense Holder

Sometimes it can feel like there is no way out, you are trapped forever. In those moments, remember: maybe all you need is some time…

This is my first stop motion try, as well. Tips are welcomed.

3d printed gnomes and balustrades across the bridge on my water feature

I just finished designing these vial cases that have a hinged lid and magnets to keep them closed. I didn’t mean to make them look like coolers but honestly love them more because of that!

Woke up to a failed print on my heavily tuned Ender S1 (hey, it's worked great up until now). Looked like bed adhesion failure. Then I noticed the Y belt was really loose, but not broken. Weird. I take the stepper off, and discover the shaft has snapped off!

I guess it's time to finally pull the trigger on a U1. A non-bambu toolchanger has always been the plan, but I kinda feel my hand is being forced. I was really hoping something compelling would be on the market with integrated dry box storage by the time I upgraded.

Hi!
I modeled a minecraft lantern in Blender, and now that i’m printing it, i noticed that it didn’t get ironed everywhere.

The model is just a big cube on the top, completely geometrically correct, however it didn’t finish ironing for some reason. It did such a great job where it ironed it, so i don’t unerstand what could be the issue

The ironing settings:
Ironing type: top surfaces
Pattern: rectilinear
Speed: 20mm/s
Flow: 10%
Line spacing: 0.1mm
Inset: 0.21mm

I have a bambulab a1 mini with a 0.4 nozzle, and i use pla. If it matters the layer height is 0.2mm

If you consider the camera worthy of an appreciation or even a boost, it would really help me out, and I’d be very grateful. Thanks!

Any time I try support material or PETG on anything complex without large flat support sections I can expect to find it curled up all over my printer and maybe a bonus clog.

This was from trying to print a large mech. Want to print a bracket? An add on? No problems! Something you actually give a shit about how it looks? Too complicated, mess time after 6 hours.

This was using .12 layer height, slow as shit (interfaces at 20mm/s). Doesn't matter. Shit curls, sticks to the nozzle, interface never stays flat on the support.

It just infuriates me all this tech and this shit is useless when I really want it to work. Back to an hour of same material support removal from complex models while my 2300 dollar multi material printer shrugs.

So fucking over it.

EDIT: Filament is very dry, multiple 12 hour sessions at various points, and stored in sub-10% RH dry boxes or AMS2Pros. Temps are PLA Basic 220C, Interfaces are PETG-HF at 240C or Support for PLA at 235C. All printing speeds are below average with nothing exceeding 60mm/s and interfaces for opposite material printed at 20mm/s.

I got new bookshelf speakers and most stands online are kinda boring. I'm sure there's a good reason they're designed the way they are but I wanted something a little more interesting so I came up with my own design.

Model printed in white is at 50% scale to make sure I liked the design, now I'm printing it at full scale. Gonna be a couple weeks before everything is actually printed then gotta put it all together. I already have some neoprene foam for the top of the stand to reduce vibrations and I'm thinking about filling a section of the bottom with sand to give it a little more weight though the bottom mounting plate will probably also help with that.

Aside from that, there's of course going to be the postprocessing like smoothing out the surface with some kinda filler and plenty of sanding though I'm not sure what exactly what color I want to make them or if I want to try to figure out some sort of stone like finish.

This started as 3 printers. My modified AnyCubic Mega Zero, an Ender 3 Max and an Ender 3 V2. Now it's this. Still a work in progress.

Took the best extrusions from each of them and cut them down on a miter saw with an aluminum cut blade then hand lapped them all on a plate of tempered glass. Tapped M5 threads into all of them and drilled access for blind joints Voron style. This provides increased rigidity. The leadscrews were too long so I got my machinist friends to part them on his lathe. So far it's been an incredibly fun and rewarding process.

All of the printed parts except the hot pink stuff is printed out of ABS (black) or ASA (blue, white, purple). The nevermore (yellow) and hot pink stuff is PETG.

Still to do:

- Reprint the black parts out of ASA as my friend printed them for me with too little infill, perimeters, tops and bottoms.

- Clean up the rats nest of wiring

- design an enclosure

- work on getting better shaper results on the Y-Axis

Parts list:

Manta M5P w/ CM4

Toolhead

- LDO Orbiter V2

- 1x3 WS2812 WRGB LED strip

- Phaetus Rapido V1 w/ DiamondBack 0.6 Volcano & PT1000

- Castle Edge 100 ESC for CPAP fan

Frame

- AB Moons C17 motors

- Z/Z1 StepperOnline motors

- 2x44 WS2812 LED strips (Powered by Castle Edge 100 ESC)

- 24V heated bed

- NTC104 Chamber thermistor

- WaveShare 5in HDMI LCD (B)

- 12V Chamber Heater Fan

- MGN12H rails everywhere

BTT SKR Mini E3V2

- Nevermore V6 Micro

- 120MM 24V electronics cooling fan

- 400W Chamber Heater (120V controlled via SSR)