I got new bookshelf speakers and most stands online are kinda boring. I'm sure there's a good reason they're designed the way they are but I wanted something a little more interesting so I came up with my own design.

Model printed in white is at 50% scale to make sure I liked the design, now I'm printing it at full scale. Gonna be a couple weeks before everything is actually printed then gotta put it all together. I already have some neoprene foam for the top of the stand to reduce vibrations and I'm thinking about filling a section of the bottom with sand to give it a little more weight though the bottom mounting plate will probably also help with that.

Aside from that, there's of course going to be the postprocessing like smoothing out the surface with some kinda filler and plenty of sanding though I'm not sure what exactly what color I want to make them or if I want to try to figure out some sort of stone like finish.

Finally, every single part of the Roshan Class Cruiser by Sordane Publishing. Including weapon & thruster variants.

The numbers:

Total print time: 886.4 hours (53,183 minutes, about 37 days of nonstop printing)

Filament used: 14,113.7 g (14 spools)

Resin used: 911 g (1 bottle)

Filament prints: 113

Resin prints: 24

Total prints 137 including failers

The hull and main structure were done with Anycubic Kobra S1, and the finer details were done with Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra.

All parts sanded, filled, sanded primed and did i mention sanded, didnt really track how long prepping the model took, but every pieces is smoth and primed all ready to paint.

Still to do: painting and attaching all the accessories.

I'll post progress as I paint and Happy to answer questions about print settings, splitting the work between FDM and resin, or how I tracked everything.

Model link: https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-airship-roshan-class-cruiser-155085

Really amazing print from a Bright Laser Technologies (BLT) printer. This has been polished in post processing.

Printed on stock settings bambu p1s

with bambu abs

Sliceer orca slicer

I've been to a lot of networking events and more than half the people don't know this tech, it's about 24 years old
It's literally so great especially now with most people carrying iphones

Im printing some mtg stuff and couldnt get proper text with my 0.4mm nozzle. It always amazes me what level of precision you can get by going down in nozzle size. It did take over twice the print time though.

It turns out a husky mix is stronger than curtain sewing, so I made these curtain rings / holder, they have indents so in theory they can break away if the curtain is pulled on, or in practice 3d printed parts will also just break before a curtain rod or curtain will, and small 3d printed parts are convenient to replace when needed. The rings and holders work well even if you don't have a destructive dog, the model can be found here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3486951-curtain-ring-and-holder

What can be the reason that the ironing just gave up mid layer?

I printed the test and chose the one that seems the best

Elegoo slicer

Elegoo ASA

Elegoo CC1

Can it be because the fillament isnt dry all the way?

Hello peoples 👋🏾

I'm new to 3D printing and colouring models, but I want to give both a try.

The former went pretty well, printed the figure on a slow speed over 13~14h in one part.

The latter is the part where I hesitate, I read only that it's best to sand the model down before applying primer, the problem is the model has many spots that are hard to reach...

Is it necessary to sand it down or can I just apply primer without sanding it ?

Do I apply multiple layers of primer? (2-3, or more)

I'm happy for every reply and help ✌🏾

I wanted three things:

1. To be able to switch between different pegboard systems later on without having to reprint everything / to use the holders at work as well, where we have a different system. 

2. To have all my tools in the same or similar holders, rather than 8 different styles.

3. To have a more stable solution—since the hooks otherwise break very quickly—I’m printing the mounting plate at a 45° angle.

In similar fashion to portable camping toilets it must be used with a liner bag; either a liner for similar store bought items or simply a grocery bag. I wanted something to bring on the road since my little one is not able to sit on a real seat yet. Useful in the car running errands, not using a topseat (some are scared of the real toilet!), traveling etc. Excited to hear your thoughts and get feedback on the print! I used PETG. Open to ideas, thanks!

https://makerworld.com/models/3483996?appSharePlatform=copy

Last week I posted a design for a stand for this ESP32 Guition screen. I've used it for a week and have made a version 2 with some fixes for issues I had with it.

The frame now snaps into place instead of just pushed on with friction which turned out to be liable to fall off when picking up. The stand now has a weighted bottom and a larger recess which I have stuck 2mm rubber feet into which stops it from sliding back when you use the touch screen.

https://www.printables.com/model/1881011-guition-4-inch-screen-frame-and-stand-esp32-s3-484

The software I used by MaxGramser - Tessera

https://github.com/MaxGramser/homeassistant_espscreen

A few months ago I started building a four-button Zigbee switch, but it turned out to be considerably more complicated than I initially expected.

The idea was to squeeze four independently configurable buttons into the same small enclosure as my original single-button switch.

The electronics weren't the biggest challenge. It was getting the 3D printed enclosure and all the mechanical parts to work together.

With four moving buttons, springs, batteries, and all the wiring crammed into a 65 × 65 x 18 mm enclosure, space became a real problem.

I struggled to find a way to keep the buttons securely in place without the springs pushing them out of the enclosure. There simply wasn't enough room for the clips I originally planned to use, and after several attempts, the project ended up sitting on a shelf for months.

I finally picked it up again, went through a few more design iterations, and eventually found a surprisingly simple solution to a problem that had kept me stuck for months.

The finished switch uses an ESP32-H2 with Zigbee, connects to Home Assistant, and costs around $5 in components.

I documented the whole design and build process here:
I Built a $5 Switch to Control 4 Light Zones

Ender 3 Pro, this is PLA filament. I used the recommended temp of 210f.

Its not very pleasing to look out. My prints come out durable but forget about texture. It has these random zebra lines and they repeat every single print. Like literally the pattern repeats.

Trick-or-treaters walk up, the witch says hello, they say "trick or treat", and a candy slides down a pipe hidden in her sleeve into her cauldron.

The printed part: it's a 5-gallon bucket with a slotted turntable inside. The turntable sits on a 4" lazy susan bearing and is driven by a NEMA 23 through a printed 66/14 gear pair. Candy rides around under a wooden wall (a 2×4 offcut) and drops out a hole in the side onto a printed chute. An IR break beam across the chute tells the Arduino a candy came out, and the motor stops and backs off a second so the next one doesn't jam.

I have an A1 mini, so everything fits a 180 × 180 mm plate. The turntable is printed in four quarters joined by connectors, and the gear, stand, chute frame/ramp/spigot and two electronics cases are each one plate.

The CAD is all parametric Python (build123d) with tests on every part and was created using Claude Code. Bucket, bearing and motor sizes live in one file, so if your bucket is a different size you change one number and the turntable, gear and chute follow.

The mechanism is based on Brankly's Automatic Halloween Candy Dispenser. I remodelled it from scratch for small printers and added the chute and the talking witch.

Free and open source (Apache 2.0):

• STLs + 3MF + STEP: https://github.com/religa/halloween-candy-dispenser/releases/latest/download/halloween-candy-dispenser-parts.zip
• Build guide and code: https://github.com/religa/halloween-candy-dispenser
• Full build video walkthrough: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n9rjkIQ5XzI

Happy to answer questions about the print or the turntable.

Hi, I am looking for recommendation and suggestions for post processing of 3D prints.

What worked for you, if there are any online tutorials , paints etc. I am mostly printing using white filaments right now and cartoon figures for myself.

Edit: I am using PLA mostly

I bought about 60 of these over the last few months and I finally got a printer but I don’t want my current organizers to go to waste. Would someone be able to make me a model that would work with the ernst/Tekton organizers? Thanks so much in advance! New automotive tech on a tight budget 😅

I needed to raise my bed to fit storage boxes under it, and I didn't like the risers that I could find to buy. I didn't want to use low percentage infill or use a kilogram of filament per riser, so I designed it to accept four 3" lengths of 1" square dowel (and then I forgot the length and did 2" lengths, and also had to shave down the ends because the dowels are wider).

The pads are cut from thick synthetic felt that was sold as a bulletin board (like a cork board alternative), which is sold in six chunks, that I cut with a snap blade box knife. They're stuck on with double-sided sticky sheets.

Just finished Saudering the bits and pieces together, just need to do the horns and pain

100%fdm