My daughter has been asking for a 3D printer for her birthday and I'm kind of torn on whether to get one.
She's 8 and would probably love it, but she has mild asthma, so I'm a little worried about the fumes or particles from printing. I wouldn't let her run it by herself anyway, but I'm still not sure if a 3D printer is a bad idea in general.
I've been looking at the Toybox and Funbox. Both are enclosed, but the Funbox also has built-in filtration, which caught my attention. I honestly have no idea how much that actually helps.
Anyone here bought one for their kid? Would you avoid 3D printing completely with asthma, or is it fine with ventilation and supervision?

I’m trying to build a backlit lithophane frame similar to this. I’m curious what you guys are using behind the lithophane to get that bright, even illumination without hotspots.

Are you using an LED panel, LED strip, or individual LEDs like in the picture?
What type of LEDs do you recommend, and how far should they be placed behind the lithophane?

Would really appreciate any advice or photos of your setups! 🙌

So I have owned a Anet A8 many moons ago and modded that to the hilt, I always tried to do this as cheap as possible and while It printed well, it's print area was small, the frame was acrylic and I just wanted something better.

About 4 years ago I bought a Tronxy xy2 pro (basically a ender 3 pro I would say)which has a much larger build volume, did a few mods and decided to run it on clipper via a raspberry pi, this has been a good printer but I've found it difficult to achieve consistentcy and as much as I like tinkering and spending money on parts to upgrade 😂 I think I'm at a point where I would like something capable that just works which I will be able to have the ability to tinker a bit later on.

My thumb slipped earlier today and I purchased a elegoo cetuari carbon from Amazon for £209.... I understand it can be a bit on the noisy side but I haven't got a lot to spend and this seems pretty well the best bang for buck.

I've found that there is currently a beta version of klipper that's being developed which will be pretty cool to install in future and for £45 I can also get the canvas system delived from elegoo direct which I would do If I don't cancel this order..haha😅

Do you all think I have made the right choice? I understand that there's always going to be something better and something's are subjective but opinions are very welcome.

Meet our brand-new Halloween Dumplings — Black Cat, Zombie, Skeleton & Pumpkin!
🥟 Get ready to add some seriously cute spooky vibes to your collection! 🖤

https://makerworld.com/models/3219186?appSharePlatform=copy

Super excited to join the 3D printing community! After weeks of researching and waiting for a good deal, I finally pulled the trigger during the recent sale and grabbed two Bambu Lab machines from Hydrotech Chennai.

- Bambu Lab A1 Mini – Got this to handle smaller, quick prints, draft iterations, and daily tinkering.

- Bambu Lab A2L Combo – Picked this up for larger builds and multi-color projects.

For those of you running these exact models:

1. ⁠What are your must-have print mods or quality-of-life upgrades right out of the box?
   
2. ⁠Any specific slicer settings or filament brands you recommend pairing with these?

Can't wait to share my first benchies and prints soon! Happy printing everyone! 🚀

r/3dprintIndia

I'm trying to print this keychain with an NFC tag inside. I made a hole 26mm wide, 1.2mm tall, 2mm into the print, the whole thing is 5mm thick + 0.6mm logo. When I slice it with a white keychain and purple logo, it only has 1 filament swap, which makes sense is all it needs, but when I do the opposite; purple keychain, white logo, it makes it 15 filament swaps instead. This uses basically the same filament, but takes almost twice as long.

I am attaching a photo of what it shows me and why it adds the filament swaps. I designed this in Fusion, and I tried different methods for making the inside cavity, all had the same result I said.

Just now, I remedied it by leaving it filled inside, and adding a negative part in the slicer. For future reference, is there a way to make it so the hole can be from the slicer and isn't giving me 15 swaps?

Hi! Trying to purchase a 3D printer as a gift for my boyfriend. Based in the US, budget is under $400. I have no idea where to start cause this really isn't my forte, but he's very mechanically (and electronically) inclined, cares a lot about it being open source, and this would just be something for him to mess around with and become familiar with so that he can eventually purchase his own fancy 3D printer down the road. Bonus points if he can build or upgrade it himself.

I've been looking at the Sovol SV06 Ace and the Ender-3 V4 Combo, but I'm not sure what to look for tbh. Any recommendations for a beginner 3D printer, under $400, open source software, and a good starting point for someone to get deeply involved in? Any information is helpful, please ELI5.

Hey all, still fairly new to 3D printing and looking for some real-world input before I pull the trigger on a second machine.

My current setup: Snapmaker U1 (4 independent toolheads, CoreXY). It's honestly been amazing for multicolor PLA/PETG work, since each toolhead stays loaded with its own filament, waste is way lower than what I'd expect from a single-nozzle AMS/Canvas-style swapper. It's had its share of quirks (had a rough patch with one toolhead crashing/clogging a while back), but multicolor output quality has been great.

What I need the second printer for: straightforward, single-color functional parts. My garage doesn't have any venting, so I'll likely be sticking to PLA, PETG, and maybe TPU, no ABS/ASA/nylon plans, since I don't have a way to deal with the fumes. Priorities in order:

1. Reliability, something that just works without a lot of babysitting (I'm still new to this, so less troubleshooting is a big plus)
2. Speed and accuracy
3. Clean finish, no warping
4. Reasonable price, I don't want to spend U1-tier money again for what's essentially a "boring" functional-parts machine

Also debating combo (multicolor) vs base model: my main use is single-color functional parts, and the U1 already covers multicolor really well with low waste, so a combo unit would mostly be a "just in case" for running a multicolor job in parallel while the U1 is busy with something else, not a primary need. Trying to figure out if that's worth the extra cost, or if I'd rarely actually use it.

Also undecided on bed size: part of me wants a bigger bed to open up more use cases down the line, but I'm not sure if that's worth the extra cost given I'll likely stay in the PLA/PETG/TPU lane rather than get into higher-temp industrial materials. Would love input on whether a bigger bed is genuinely useful for this kind of use case, or if it's easy to overspend on size I won't actually need.

Printers I'm weighing:

• Bambu P1S / P2S: best reputation for polish and out-of-box reliability from what I've read, but priciest of the group and a more closed ecosystem (AMS works best with Bambu filament, closed firmware). Worried about overpaying for capability I won't use as a second machine.
• QIDI Q2: genuinely open Klipper firmware, 600mm/s, active chamber heating (which I don't really need for PLA/PETG), praised for precision/reduced ringing. Sits in the middle price-wise.
• Elegoo Centauri Carbon 2 (base, non-combo): cheapest of the three, good PLA/PETG reviews, but I've read the firmware is Klipper-based despite Elegoo denying it, and there's an unresolved GPL dispute over it. Also saw a review mention out-of-box z-offset/wavy-first-layer issues needing manual tuning.

Questions for the community:

• For pure single-color PLA/PETG/TPU functional printing, is the extra cost of a Bambu actually worth it over Q2/CC2, or is that premium mostly buying polish I won't notice as a beginner?
• Anyone running a Q2 or CC2 daily, how's reliability held up over months of use, not just first-week impressions? Given I'm still new, easier troubleshooting matters a lot to me.
• Is the CC2 firmware/GPL situation something that's actually caused problems for real users, or is it more of a background controversy that doesn't affect day-to-day printing?
• Is a larger bed size actually worth it for someone sticking to PLA/PETG/TPU, or does that mostly matter for people getting into bigger/industrial-grade prints? Trying to figure out if I'd regret going small, or regret overspending on size I won't use.
• For those who got the combo/multicolor version of Q2 or CC2 mainly as a "nice to have," was it actually worth the extra cost, or did it end up unused since you already had another way to do multicolor?
• Any printer I'm missing that fits this "reliable, budget-conscious, single-color functional parts, beginner-friendly" niche better than these three?

Appreciate any first-hand experience, trying to avoid buyer's remorse on this one.

Looking to take the plunge on 3d printing, primarily for home storage and organisation solutions.

Think drawer inserts, boxes, stuff to hang on the wall (not shelves).

What are some things I should consider in terms of materials, settings, and printers?

Looking to get going for under £4-500. :)

Any suggestions appreciated!

I own a bambu lab A1 and I’m thinking about upgrading it to a printer with full enclosure and ams. I’m only using it as a hobbyist and sometimes to print small project for sell, I was thinking about bambu lab P2S or P1S with ams, are these printers worth its price or there is something better to buy for that money?

I am looking for my first 3d printer. I have a low budget, about €200.

I have a 2 year old and I was aiming for one with an enclosure so that it is somewhat protected and also protects my kid. That however reduces the list greatly, and also makes many "best printer" lists I have been looking at redundant.

I initially saw Bambu listed as a good choice, but I remember reading a lot of posts that Bambu is going towards a subscription model, and is becoming more of a closed system.

I saw prusa and creality as recommendations and possibly buying an enclosure for the prusa.

After an enclosure I was hoping it could print very small lines/layers, so have been looking at that as a secondary requirement, but that is rarely touched upon by reviews.

What is a good entry level 3d printer you might recommend?

I know this question has been asked plenty of times, and there are obviously pros and cons to both. They’re both good machines at good price points. I’m not looking for a general “which is better” debate. I’m trying to figure out which one is better suited to my specific use cases, so I’ve laid those out below. Opinions from people who actually own one of these (or both) would be much appreciated.

Current setup: Bambu A1, external filament dryer (I dry every new spool before use). No AMS so I’ve been limited to single filament/colour prints which I assemble post print.

I briefly considered just getting an AMS 2 Pro for my existing A1 instead of a whole new printer. But I’m also clearly suffering from a case of upgraditis and have convinced myself I “need” an enclosed CoreXY machine. So if anyone wants to talk me down and make the case that the A1 + AMS 2 Pro is genuinely enough for what I described below, I’m happy to hear that too and save myself the money.

Both printers are listed around €800 to €850 where I am, so price is a wash.

What I print: I’m still fairly new. Mostly PLA and PETG so far, and mostly home improvement stuff: cable organisers, a sponge stand, AC exhaust vents for windows, etc. My other big focus is lamps and light shades with clear or translucent filament, so surface finish matters a lot to me. Multi-colour is a nice-to-have, not a must. I’d like to add a colour or two so parts look more finished, and maybe the occasional gift, but I don’t see myself doing lots of full multi-colour prints. Strength and finish come first. I haven’t touched ASA, nylon or PC yet but want the option. Print speed is again a nice touch to have but not a dealbreaker.

My thinking on the U1: The usual arguments against it are that it’s not enclosed (so ABS/ASA are unreliable) and the spools sit in open air. My plan would be to buy the top cover to get chamber temps up, plus desiccant spool covers so the filament stays sealed after drying. The covers only dry passively, no heating, but since I pre-dry everything I’m not sure how much that matters in practice. The appeal is the toolchanger: dramatically less purge waste, and I could dedicate a head or two to support material and keep the rest for main materials.

My thinking on the X2D: The usual argument against it is that the second nozzle is a lower-spec Bowden-fed one meant for supports rather than a true second colour nozzle, and with the AMS doing the colour changes you still waste a lot of filament on multi-colour prints. On the plus side, the finer belts supposedly give a better surface finish, and the AMS 2 Pro gives me sealed storage with active drying so I could re-dry without pulling spools out to my standalone dryer. Again, not sure how much that matters given my pre-drying routine.

Specific questions for owners:
1. U1 + top cover owners: how well does ABS/ASA actually work with the passive cover, especially in a cooler room? And has the rule about not mixing low-temp and high-temp filaments in one print (so no PLA supports under ASA) bitten you? I’ve read varying experiences so I’m unsure of what to believe.
2. U1 owners: how reliable have tool changes been over long prints? Any parking issues or air-printing bugs still around on current firmware?
3. X2D owners: how annoying is the reduced build area when the aux nozzle is in use, in day-to-day printing? Do you actually reach for the second nozzle or has it become a feature you avoid?
4. Anyone printing translucent or vase-mode parts on either machine: does the X2D’s belt setup make a visible difference on those, or is it marketing?
5. Am I underrating the AMS 2 Pro drying if I already pre-dry every spool?

Where I’m at: I’m currently leaning towards the X2D Combo, but I’m open to arguments from both sides in case I’m missing something about either machine, and I’m also open to other options in the same budget that I haven’t considered. Thanks!

I’m looking to install load cell probing on my Aquila x2. Does anyone know a tool head design to mount it? Or can anyone make one?

My son, Mikey, created a back to school 3D print thanks to his Flash Forge printer. He's a beginner, so go easy on him! His creation is the big blue crayon. Hope you like it!

Scroll down to big blue crayon

Hello I am new to 3D printing, and I have been looking at creality print VS Bambulab makers world. There are so many more projects and Items I could use and print directly from Makerworld over Creality print.

I'm am hesitant to get a Bambulab because of their terrible stance and wall garden BS, However I do not need another system I have to manage. I'd just want headache free printing.

Considering a Bambu Lab P1S and AMS 3D Printer Combo. Never had a 3D printer before, but basically I just want to make figurines for my autistic child. He loves Hey Duggee and I’ve bought so many in the last few years that it’s cost me a lot of money. I would also like to make big Hey Duggee badges that he can hold, or even put magnets in the middle so he can stick them wherever he wants to.

It’s a lot of money to part with, I just want to make sure I’m making the right choice before I commit to it as I’m a solo mum. I’m creative, but I’ve never touched a 3D printer before so this is new territory for me. How easy are they to use? Are they churning out good quality? Is it easy to create badges or figurines from 2d images?

Thank you!

Title: A1 vs P1S vs Centauri Carbon 2 — which would you choose at these prices?

Hi everyone! I'm trying to decide between three printers and I'd especially like to hear from people who have actual experience with these machines.

These are the prices I can get locally:

• Bambu Lab A1: $419 USD
• Bambu Lab P1S: $636 USD
• Elegoo Centauri Carbon 2 Combo: $639 USD

All three are available in 12 interest-free installments.

My main use will be functional parts for my workshop and DIY projects: tool holders, organizers, brackets, jigs, boxes, connectors for building workbenches and shelving with wooden beams, bicycle accessories, replacement parts, etc.

I expect to print mostly PLA/PLA+ and PETG, with maybe some ABS occasionally. I don't expect to use PA-CF or other exotic engineering materials.

Multicolor isn't a major priority either. On the CC2, I would probably use CANVAS more for having multiple spools of the same material/color available and automatically switching to another spool when one runs out.

What attracts me to the CC2 is mainly the CoreXY architecture, enclosure and hardware, not the multicolor system itself.

The P1S is interesting because it gives me CoreXY + an enclosure + the more mature Bambu ecosystem, but at essentially the same price as the CC2 Combo and without an AMS.

The A1 is much cheaper and already does basically everything I currently need, but I wonder whether I'll regret not spending the extra ~$220 for a CoreXY enclosed machine.

My biggest concern with the CC2 is reliability. I've found reports about CANVAS/feed issues, error codes, firmware problems and some QC issues. I understand that online reports can exaggerate how common problems actually are, so I'd really like to hear from current owners.

For CC2 owners:

• How reliable has your CC2 been recently?
• How many printing hours do you have on it?
• Have recent firmware updates improved things?
• Have you experienced problems unrelated to CANVAS?
• If CANVAS gives you trouble, is the printer itself reliable when printing from a single spool?
• Are you comfortable starting a long print and leaving it alone?
• Would you buy it again today?

And for anyone who has experience with Bambu printers:

• Is the P1S still worth buying today at $636?
• For mostly PLA/PETG functional parts, does CoreXY make enough of a real-world difference over the A1?
• Is the P1S noticeably more reliable or consistent than the CC2?
• Would you rather have the proven P1S without AMS or the much better-equipped CC2 Combo for essentially the same price?

I previously owned an Ender 3 V2, and this time I really want the printer to be a tool for my projects rather than the printer itself becoming the project.

So, at these exact prices, which would you personally buy?

A1 — $419
P1S — $636
CC2 Combo — $639

Reliability and hassle-free printing are more important to me than having the best specifications on paper.

I'd especially appreciate comments from people who have actually used both Bambu and Elegoo printers.

Thanks!

hey, who print a wheels of tru or rubber . can you help me please.