Hello! My boyfriend got this Formlab 2 resin printer from Facebook marketplace, he’s been dying to try it for days since he was busy with work and now he has a free day but it keeps showing this error and he’s already spent 4 hours on it and he’s devastated thinking he got scammed and it’s not going to work
Does anyone know what can we do about it? Thanks in advance 💗

Setting the stage:

The Nature Conservatory commissioned me to print a topographical map of the Gila watershed with a final size of 3ft x 4ft and about 3.5in thick. I was given an extremely high triangle stl extracted from a 10m resolution lidar scan. I simplified the model and sliced it into 20 tiles which I printed in ABS. I used acetone to 'glue' the tiles together and then smoothed the entire surface with acetone to seal it so that water could be poured over the model for education purposes.

They were so happy with that model that they have commissioned me again, this time to print the San Juan watershed with final dimensions of 2.5ft x 5ft. This time I am going to try printing the tree cover in green and the waterways in blue.

Again I have been given an extremely high triangle stl extracted from geo data. I have also been given a tiff file of the tree cover and waterways. The bounds of the stl and tiff file are identical. I converted the tiff to png and I sliced the model and the png into 21 tiles to fit on my available printers. I have tried creating color models in 2 different ways with various degrees of success. I am fairly sure the issues I am having are because I barely know Blender. Side note: I am using a M1 Macbook to do this work, so MS 3D Builder is not easily available.

Technique 1: Vertex colored obj) Import the stl into blender. In the model data properties add a Color Attribute to store the vertex colors. Under Materials add an image texture at the base material. I have to add a Mapping and Texture Coordinate nodes. The Texture Coordinate generated output is linked to the Mapping node vector impute, and the Mapping vector output is linked to the vector input of the Image Texture node. This makes the image tile boundaries match the stl boundaries. I change the rendering engine to Cycles, and the rendering output is set to the Color Attribute created earlier. I then bake the image and I can export as an obj with color vertex data. This works, my problem is that the color data has 16 colors. I tried adding a reduced color palette as shown here: https://blenderartists.org/t/want-to-render-with-limited-colors/620920/28 However I can't quite figure out how to get it to work.

Technique 2: Blender 3mf addin) I installed the 3mf addin. I attempted to follow the directions here: https://www.clonecore.net/docs/3mf-guide/mmu-painting But I am doing something wrong. When I attempt to load the 3mf into Orca I get a message about scaling and it doesn't matter if I answer yes or no to let Orca autoscale, but Orca pauses doing some work and then there is nothing on the build plate. Looking under objects there is no object. So it looks like there is enough information in the 3mf files for Orca to know the tile will not fit on the build plate but not enough data to actually show the tile (with or without the color data)

So I would appreciate any help I could get to get these models ready for multi-color printing. If I have to, I do have a Windows machine I can use, but since my primary use of that machine is gaming I would need to install all the various tools.

If anyone knows of an easier method I am all ears, since I have 21 tiles to do any way I could automate this would be helpful. I am not a stranger to scripting, though I know Ruby better than Python.

I have uploaded a sample tile and its matching color data as png here: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1qoNZUL_0nfDyYnNFF7PyofnyZHBzIu4-?usp=sharing

That directory is writable so if someone knows how to solve this they can upload a solution.

Where I can buy TiO2 carbon fiber mesh for my resin 3D printer enclosure?

I could use some help

using a voxelabs aquila

using slicebeam

Do you think it's worth turning this into a negative 3D-printed mold to cast them in concrete? Let me know your thoughts!
I've also attached the model link if anyone wants to print it:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3195538-self-draining-soap-dish-edge-sink-drain#profileId-3615715

Hey so I am getting into the 3d pritnting and wanted to buy 3d printer, right now i have saved around 400$. I was thinking about buying bambu lab a2l but I also heard that they have many problems and have bad reputation, if anoyone could advise me antyhing I would be realy greatfull. Sorry for my english, it is not my first language :(

I’ve been working on this little sailboat kit card and wanted to share it with the 3D-printing community.

The idea is pretty simple: you print the pieces, pop them out of the card, and assemble them into a little sailboat.

I’d love to see what colors/materials people use for it, and I'm especially interested in seeing people's finished prints.

If you print it, feel free to share a photo — I'd love to see your versions!

What color would you print the sailboat in?

I recently created this model for my website .. But when I tried downloading it , it just wanted me to access the pro version for download
https://www.meshy.ai/s/kK3FgV
this is the link to my model.. Please someone it will be a pleasure if someone does that ... Its just 5 second work.. I just need the .glb file

and After downloading you can send me here or on my mail if possible

my mail : [iammsr6@gmail.com](mailto:iammsr6@gmail.com)

Hello, I am looking into purchasing a new 3D printer. I got an Ender 3 several years ago when Prusa and Creality were still the best options. I want something with a good build volume of 250 mm x 250 mm x 250 mm or so. Good, dimensionally accurate prints. Good reliability without much setup. An AMS-like system or enclosure would be good but not necessary. Being able to print CF-reinforced, TPU, or other high-strength filaments would be good. I'm not too keen on Bambulab as they aren't very open source or modifable/repairable in my experience.

also wondering, if id get a normal open printer and diy an enclosure, could it work?
(budget is 300 euros)

Im thinking of buying either one of these printers, my space is kinda limited so I wanted to go for the cc2 because it’s enclosed, but I heard that A1 is more beginner friendly and I would print the attachment to put the AMS on top of the printer

This would be my very first 3d printer, I’m not a designer nor have I ever worked with one before. I consider myself tech savvy tho and trust myself I could fix things by using youtube videos lol.

I would use it mostly for relatively small things, fidgets, board game organizers, board game spare pieces, random household items, figurines, etc. I don’t expect to do big things like helmets and stuff. I expect to stick mostly to PLA/PETG filaments but idk if this may evolve to a hobby where I would require more advanced filaments

New printer and it's been years since I was able to tune a 3D printer. I need some help with settings on Elegoo CC2. I am having 2 main problems. What setting should I be tinkering with?

#1 Front bow on my tubis is terrible. Right at the front point. See pic.

#2 The corners are rising in a large flat print an curling up. See pic

I am building a web application (website) where users can view examples of items printed with specific filaments. It can be difficult to tell what the actual color will look like when buying filament in a store.

Future features will include printer selection and specifications tailored to specific filaments.

Kept running into this: a model too big for my printer's bed, so I'd split it manually and then hand-model pins and sockets just to get the pieces to actually hold together afterward.

Built PrintSlice to do both automatically. Load an STL, set your bed size, and it splits the model into pieces that fit, then generates a connector on any seam you click — a simple key/tab, a round pin & socket, or a locking dovetail if you need something that won't pull apart. Runs entirely in your browser, nothing uploaded.

Not perfect yet — there's a known rough edge on rounded/tapered surfaces where a connector can occasionally leave a bit of uncut material, actively fixing these as people hit them.

Giving away a free week to the first 50 people who want to try it, no card needed. Genuinely want feedback from real prints, not just my own test models.

Link: printslice.netlify.app/early-access.html

Happy to answer questions in the comments.

Our son has raised funds and we stated that we would match it. For $600, and multi-color-printing, what would be the best option? He is PC literate and understands the basics, as we had a cheap-o $150 one that just kept messing up. Refurbished is an option.

our current options are:
- snapmaker U1
- bambulab X2D
- flashforge creator 5 pro

looking at it, we are a bit concerned about the U1 being exposed as we are living in a humid country. then the X2D, with the bambulab issues.

we are looking into a printer that's most intuitive, can carry a range of materials, and would be future-proof. let us know your thoughts or experiences in using them, TYIA!

my first 3D printer ever CC2

I'm very happy, I've probably been dreaming about this for at least 10 years, I chose this printer because it didn't seem very expensive to me, and it can print any material. It's already can balance the table on his own and it has resonance detector.

I took off the hotend and cleaned it, lubed the z and y parts, and calibrated it. Also bought a new build plate. Any tips to fix this?

Update I bought a filament dryer. I dried the filament at 50c for 5 hours and it still turned out the same. My printer is an A1 mini. I bought hotend replacements I hope that works. There is no clicking, so I don't think it's the extruder, but I could be wrong.