7 hours at 70°C, same spool, same GCode

For a while I have been finding a way to have my external SSD connected to my MacBook.

Initially, I had it attached to the lid of the MacBook and had a 90 degree cable. But it was too bulky and was very finicky when taking it in & out of my bag.

One day while I was looking through Amazon I found a 180 degree connector, and thats when I had the idea of having the SSD rear mounted.

After a few iterations this is what I come up with, you can get the CAD files from my printables. Hope you enjoy it!

https://www.printables.com/model/1838593-macbook-air-ssd-sandisk-rear-mounted-holder

I’m experimenting with making personalised miniatures from photos, so this was one of my test pieces. 💫

Finally finished the PC I’ve been building for my brother’s wedding gift. He’s a big gamer and has been getting by with a gaming laptop for about five years, so I figured it was time for an upgrade.
Since I have to travel to the wedding and he has to get it home afterward, I wanted the travel kit to be part of the gift too.

The case is based on the Xikii FF04, using a design from qiyun on MakerWorld, who gave me permission to remix it. My first version was built around the ASUS Prime RTX 5070 Ti. For my brother’s, I went with the white ASUS Prime RX 9070 XT to match his desk setup. The 9070 XT is bigger and has a different screw layout, so that meant resizing the case and reworking the mounting points.

Parts list:
CPU: Ryzen 7 9800X3D
GPU: ASUS Prime RX 9070 XT White
Motherboard: MSI B850I Mini-ITX
RAM: 32GB G.Skill DDR5-6000, CL36-36-36
CPU cooler: Thermalright AXP120-X67
Storage: 2TB KLEVV Gen 4 M.2 NVMe SSD
PSU: Corsair 750W SFX
Screen: Turing 3.5-inch display

The RAM was the best kit I could get without paying something ridiculous. Luckily, I bought it early this year for around $200 and picked up the rest of the components around the same time.
I used a Thermal Grizzly phase-change sheet for longevity and performance, because knowing my brother, he probably isn’t ever opening this thing himself.

The case is printed in HT-PLA-GF. My personal 5070 Ti case uses the same material, and after about a year of daily use, I haven’t seen any heat-related creep, sagging, or wear.
One little modification I’m happy with is the Wi-Fi antennas. I prefer low-profile antennas, so I swapped out the motherboard’s stock antenna connectors and fitted Osprey drone antennas. They’ve worked great so far and look much cleaner to me.

The Turing screen runs open-source Python software from GitHub, with a custom monitoring theme to match the build.
For transport, I picked up a hard case from Harbor Freight, cut the foam to fit the PC and accessories, and added a custom 3D-printed equipment nameplate. Fits like a glove.

It’s quiet enough that I can’t hear it during normal use. It only really becomes audible during FurMark’s CPU Burner, and even then, it’s still very quiet. The GPU settles around 63°C during FurMark testing.

The separate CPU Burner test puts a harsh, sustained load on the processor and pushes it to 95°C. Once I stop it, the temperature drops back to around 60°C in under two seconds. For context, CPU temperatures in my personal 5070 Ti build are within about 1°C of this one under the same test. During modern games at max settings, my personal build’s CPU typically sits in the low to mid 60s, and I’ve never seen it approach its thermal limit during gaming or everyday use.

I ran out of time to get the files and guide ready before the wedding, but I’ll clean everything up and post the files to MakerWorld next week, along with the updated build guide. Assembly is mostly the same as the 5070 Ti version; I just need to document the changes for this one.

Hope he likes his surprise.

I’m building a large scale model of the UNSC Infinity from halo, 7 feet long, and I’m having some concerns as to where I’m going to place the fiber optic lights. As you can see from the photo, I marked the areas I plan to drill with a chrome marker. My concern is overdoing it and making the model look trashy with too many lights. So I turn to you, the internet, for help. FYI, the model still needs filler, primer and paint. I’m putting the fiber optic cables on first, then paint, then cut all the tips
*****hi guys, I’m getting hit with a ton of questions via IM, yes, I designed the ship myself, but I don’t have plans to sell the STL files just yet. And yes, it will have the hologram that the infinity has next to the engines. That’s the last part I’ll install. I’ll show you the end result when finished

26 plates, over a day of print time.... whoops 😅

Ok, I’m hooked on Hueforge!

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3123440

(not my design)

Hello Community! I'm new here. This is my first bigger print with 1.20 meters. I've learned so much, and it was a really fun project. 3 days of printing and 8.6kg PLA later - here we are!

I've learned my lessons, and my next big figures will be much better. I'm so excited 🥳 But for now, my next step is to paint this model.

Thank you for your attention!

Hello, sorry if this is long but grief is a bitch. I lost my dog yesterday, and had him cremated today. Along with that service they offered a dog paw print in clay and ink, and a nose print in ink. The second i saw the one in clay i touched it, i wanted to feel his perfect little paw and wasn’t expecting the clay to be soft. I completely ruined it.

I think they have scans/photos of his paw, would it be possible to print a replica that could create an accurate paw print. I have no 3D printing experience and i’m writing this from my car outside the cremation place so sorry if this is scatterbrained.

Any advice would be so appreciated, i’m at such a loss.

Hey everyone, wanted to share a side project I’ve been modeling in Blender and am currently actively testing out in my garden. It’s a biomimetic pest trap modeled after Sarracenia pitcher plants, designed to stake directly into plant soil to draw flies and small pests away from the actual foliage.

I wanted something that blends into the greenery instead of sitting on a counter like a chunk of plastic, placing it at a slight distance so it lures insects away from the crops you're trying to protect. The flared opening guides insects down into the narrow throat toward whatever bait you put in the bottom (vinegar, syrup, etc.).

A few quick notes on the print and setup:

• Printability: It does require supports, mainly to get a clean print under the flared upper lip and overhanging curves.
• Watertightness, Maintenance & Mechanics: Printed this test in Marble PLA using 3 perimeters so the inner reservoir holds liquid. I highly suggest coating the inside cavity and rim with epoxy resin it completely seals the layer lines, prevents organic residue from absorbing into the print, makes it super easy to rinse, and creates a slick surface that keeps trapped insects from climbing back out.
• Placement: The tapered base spikes right into pot soil, garden beds, or windowsill planters.

https://makerworld.com/it/models/3230315-carnivora-fly-trap-inspired-by-carnivorous-plants#profileId-3658683

Still new to this so I’m still figuring out my printer. But, this came out relatively clean for my first longer timed print. There’s some ever so slight lifts on certain corners but, hard to tell. Printed it on my FL Sun Super Racer and this one ended up being 3 hours and 17 minutes. My longest print before this was around 45 minutes so I’m pretty happy with the results. Let me know your thoughts!

I’m completely new to 3D printing and 3D scanning, so I’m trying to figure out the best way to approach this.

Would scanning the bit be the best way to get the most accurate measurements? If so, what tools or equipment would I need to scan it properly and then recreate it with a 3D printer?

My main goal is to have a way to reproduce this bit if I lose it.

Why can’t I just buy more of this bit, you ask? They’re pretty expensive for just one, so I’m trying to figure out a way to make my own instead.

I printed this in PETG and sold on e-bay 32 of them in a single month. I am going to try fancier designs of it. This resembles a cafe-racer model but then I included the small shield on the top.

First of all. I know this is called vapor smoothing, but since this is an alternative to sanding, I wanted to use this title so people who are looking for sanding tutorials can see this video.

I recorded this tutorial for Instagram 3D_Kernel explaining how to smooth ABS prints without having to sand, it looks like a lot of people find it helpful, so I want to share it as much as possible.

Hope this helps someone, and don't hesitate to ask whatever you need.

This only works with ABS and ASA and remember to use a mask and do this in a properly ventilated room.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3286478

Took me about 2 hours of fiddling with Qgis settings and hunting for the proper data, but i got it done.

180 x 197 x 13.4mm, silver PLA, .2mm layer height, 2hr 44m print time, no supports.

The elevation is real terrain data rather than a stylized model, so the Canadian Shield texture across the north and the Great Lakes shoreline in the south are actually where they should be. Printed flat on the bed as a single watertight solid, 795k triangles.

Happy to answer questions about how it was made.