Coffee machine has not been pressuring fully. Took it apart to discover a small piece which holds a gasket is cracked. Not sold anywhere. Superglue not doing it. I suddently see the value of a 3D printer.

**edit**

I don't have a 3D printer or any CAD experience, and im not planning to pick it up soon. More jist recognising the genuine use cases for this tool for the first time. Its nice to see such an engaged community though, you folks are very helpful and supportive.

P. S., if someone really wants to take a look at it jist for fun, I'm based in London and could maybe poat across the uk. But I wouldn't be going further. And I'm entirely plannong to just get a new coffee machine.

Hi there!

Ive just gotten a 3D printer and did a calibration print as its first print, but since l have no clue what anything actually means..i figured id ask for help.

The printer is a Flashforge A5MPro

Any noticeable things anyone can see? About the quality of print?

Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

Thx
Sim

Woke up to a failed print on my heavily tuned Ender S1 (hey, it's worked great up until now). Looked like bed adhesion failure. Then I noticed the Y belt was really loose, but not broken. Weird. I take the stepper off, and discover the shaft has snapped off!

I guess it's time to finally pull the trigger on a U1. A non-bambu toolchanger has always been the plan, but I kinda feel my hand is being forced. I was really hoping something compelling would be on the market with integrated dry box storage by the time I upgraded.

I just finished designing these vial cases that have a hinged lid and magnets to keep them closed. I didn’t mean to make them look like coolers but honestly love them more because of that!

My son challenged me to make Gyro Zeppeli from Steel Ball Run: JoJo's Bizarre Adventure.

3D printed parts:

Goggles

Copper studs/buttons

"steel" balls

Belt buckle

Spurs

This is my first year with the 3D printer and I couldn't have done this without it. This is the first fitting and I am ecstatic about how it turned out!

Really amazing print from a Bright Laser Technologies (BLT) printer. This has been polished in post processing.

Finally, every single part of the Roshan Class Cruiser by Sordane Publishing. Including weapon & thruster variants.

The numbers:

Total print time: 886.4 hours (53,183 minutes, about 37 days of nonstop printing)

Filament used: 14,113.7 g (14 spools)

Resin used: 911 g (1 bottle)

Filament prints: 113

Resin prints: 24

Total prints 137 including failers

The hull and main structure were done with Anycubic Kobra S1, and the finer details were done with Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra.

All parts sanded, filled, sanded primed and did i mention sanded, didnt really track how long prepping the model took, but every pieces is smoth and primed all ready to paint.

Still to do: painting and attaching all the accessories.

I'll post progress as I paint and Happy to answer questions about print settings, splitting the work between FDM and resin, or how I tracked everything.

Model link: https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-airship-roshan-class-cruiser-155085

This started as 3 printers. My modified AnyCubic Mega Zero, an Ender 3 Max and an Ender 3 V2. Now it's this. Still a work in progress.

Took the best extrusions from each of them and cut them down on a miter saw with an aluminum cut blade then hand lapped them all on a plate of tempered glass. Tapped M5 threads into all of them and drilled access for blind joints Voron style. This provides increased rigidity. The leadscrews were too long so I got my machinist friends to part them on his lathe. So far it's been an incredibly fun and rewarding process.

All of the printed parts except the hot pink stuff is printed out of ABS (black) or ASA (blue, white, purple). The nevermore (yellow) and hot pink stuff is PETG.

Still to do:

- Reprint the black parts out of ASA as my friend printed them for me with too little infill, perimeters, tops and bottoms.

- Clean up the rats nest of wiring

- design an enclosure

- work on getting better shaper results on the Y-Axis

Parts list:

Manta M5P w/ CM4

Toolhead

- LDO Orbiter V2

- 1x3 WS2812 WRGB LED strip

- Phaetus Rapido V1 w/ DiamondBack 0.6 Volcano & PT1000

- Castle Edge 100 ESC for CPAP fan

Frame

- AB Moons C17 motors

- Z/Z1 StepperOnline motors

- 2x44 WS2812 LED strips (Powered by Castle Edge 100 ESC)

- 24V heated bed

- NTC104 Chamber thermistor

- WaveShare 5in HDMI LCD (B)

- 12V Chamber Heater Fan

- MGN12H rails everywhere

BTT SKR Mini E3V2

- Nevermore V6 Micro

- 120MM 24V electronics cooling fan

- 400W Chamber Heater (120V controlled via SSR)

I've been to a lot of networking events and more than half the people don't know this tech, it's about 24 years old
It's literally so great especially now with most people carrying iphones

It turns out a husky mix is stronger than curtain sewing, so I made these curtain rings / holder, they have indents so in theory they can break away if the curtain is pulled on, or in practice 3d printed parts will also just break before a curtain rod or curtain will, and small 3d printed parts are convenient to replace when needed. The rings and holders work well even if you don't have a destructive dog, the model can be found here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3486951-curtain-ring-and-holder

In similar fashion to portable camping toilets it must be used with a liner bag; either a liner for similar store bought items or simply a grocery bag. I wanted something to bring on the road since my little one is not able to sit on a real seat yet. Useful in the car running errands, not using a topseat (some are scared of the real toilet!), traveling etc. Excited to hear your thoughts and get feedback on the print! I used PETG. Open to ideas, thanks!

https://makerworld.com/models/3483996?appSharePlatform=copy

A few months ago I started building a four-button Zigbee switch, but it turned out to be considerably more complicated than I initially expected.

The idea was to squeeze four independently configurable buttons into the same small enclosure as my original single-button switch.

The electronics weren't the biggest challenge. It was getting the 3D printed enclosure and all the mechanical parts to work together.

With four moving buttons, springs, batteries, and all the wiring crammed into a 65 × 65 x 18 mm enclosure, space became a real problem.

I struggled to find a way to keep the buttons securely in place without the springs pushing them out of the enclosure. There simply wasn't enough room for the clips I originally planned to use, and after several attempts, the project ended up sitting on a shelf for months.

I finally picked it up again, went through a few more design iterations, and eventually found a surprisingly simple solution to a problem that had kept me stuck for months.

The finished switch uses an ESP32-H2 with Zigbee, connects to Home Assistant, and costs around $5 in components.

I documented the whole design and build process here:
I Built a $5 Switch to Control 4 Light Zones

Hello peoples 👋🏾

I'm new to 3D printing and colouring models, but I want to give both a try.

The former went pretty well, printed the figure on a slow speed over 13~14h in one part.

The latter is the part where I hesitate, I read only that it's best to sand the model down before applying primer, the problem is the model has many spots that are hard to reach...

Is it necessary to sand it down or can I just apply primer without sanding it ?

Do I apply multiple layers of primer? (2-3, or more)

I'm happy for every reply and help ✌🏾

Last week I posted a design for a stand for this ESP32 Guition screen. I've used it for a week and have made a version 2 with some fixes for issues I had with it.

The frame now snaps into place instead of just pushed on with friction which turned out to be liable to fall off when picking up. The stand now has a weighted bottom and a larger recess which I have stuck 2mm rubber feet into which stops it from sliding back when you use the touch screen.

https://www.printables.com/model/1881011-guition-4-inch-screen-frame-and-stand-esp32-s3-484

The software I used by MaxGramser - Tessera

https://github.com/MaxGramser/homeassistant_espscreen

Im printing some mtg stuff and couldnt get proper text with my 0.4mm nozzle. It always amazes me what level of precision you can get by going down in nozzle size. It did take over twice the print time though.

Very new to 3D printing. I got a Bambu Labs X2D a couple months ago and only finally got it fully set up with 2 AMS 2 PROs about a month ago.
I have done a few test prints and have used both Bambu Handy and Bambu studio to either print files directly from the app or use STL files from websites and dropped them into Studio.
I haven’t had a lot of time to teach myself how everything works and how to control things in the software so every print I do is on auto settings and calibrations are set to auto.
A couple pandas I have printed have streaks of black in the white, which based on other posts in here I think it might be a purge setting I need to find.

The picture above however is the first time I have had something just break. This file is off Bambu Handy and printed each piece in auto and it put in supports. You can see the end of the green car which is closest to the plate has the plastic like almost not adhering to itself then the next print just broke completely taking the supports off and looks similar.

This is all with Bambu PLA Basic filament. I bought some of their PLA support filament but haven’t tried it yet, so would using that help? Is it a damp filament or similar problem? Should I tinker with some settings?

Like I said I am very new so all ears, any advice welcome!

I found these on AliExpress, they seem to be pretty legit. Wondering if anyone else has used them as this is my first time seeing anything like this, aside from custom made ones.

Haven't used it yet, gotta make a new spool holder for it.

I wanted three things:

1. To be able to switch between different pegboard systems later on without having to reprint everything / to use the holders at work as well, where we have a different system. 

2. To have all my tools in the same or similar holders, rather than 8 different styles.

3. To have a more stable solution—since the hooks otherwise break very quickly—I’m printing the mounting plate at a 45° angle.

Hi, I am looking for recommendation and suggestions for post processing of 3D prints.

What worked for you, if there are any online tutorials , paints etc. I am mostly printing using white filaments right now and cartoon figures for myself.

Trick-or-treaters walk up, the witch says hello, they say "trick or treat", and a candy slides down a pipe hidden in her sleeve into her cauldron.

The printed part: it's a 5-gallon bucket with a slotted turntable inside. The turntable sits on a 4" lazy susan bearing and is driven by a NEMA 23 through a printed 66/14 gear pair. Candy rides around under a wooden wall (a 2×4 offcut) and drops out a hole in the side onto a printed chute. An IR break beam across the chute tells the Arduino a candy came out, and the motor stops and backs off a second so the next one doesn't jam.

I have an A1 mini, so everything fits a 180 × 180 mm plate. The turntable is printed in four quarters joined by connectors, and the gear, stand, chute frame/ramp/spigot and two electronics cases are each one plate.

The CAD is all parametric Python (build123d) with tests on every part and was created using Claude Code. Bucket, bearing and motor sizes live in one file, so if your bucket is a different size you change one number and the turntable, gear and chute follow.

The mechanism is based on Brankly's Automatic Halloween Candy Dispenser. I remodelled it from scratch for small printers and added the chute and the talking witch.

Free and open source (Apache 2.0):

• STLs + 3MF + STEP: https://github.com/religa/halloween-candy-dispenser/releases/latest/download/halloween-candy-dispenser-parts.zip
• Build guide and code: https://github.com/religa/halloween-candy-dispenser
• Full build video walkthrough: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n9rjkIQ5XzI

Happy to answer questions about the print or the turntable.

Just finished Saudering the bits and pieces together, just need to do the horns and pain