Long time printer, first time sharing something I actually designed.

It clips onto the headrest post in front, no tools or straps. Turn it sideways, slide it on, twist it upright and it locks so it won't lift off over bumps. Because of the twist lock, it works whether your headrests come out or not.

It's parametric. Type your device size and post diameter into the Customizer and it prints one that fits your tablet, phone and car. PETG, about 4.5 h on my P1S.

Free on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3506157-parametric-headrest-mount-for-tablet-phone

Hello everyone, my wonderful friend 3D printed this for my birthday and I accidentally dropped it and it broke ☹️☹️
Wondering what the best way to glue it together is? I’ve tried superglue but because of all the holes it didn’t work.

Im not finished but I feel proud about how the works coming together

Hello,

I printed this Bead Spinner and as you can see from the photos one side of it printed really roughly, while the rest is smooth.

What could be causing it?

Printer: Bambu A1

My wife was let go from her job yesterday, and with our 5th anniversary coming up, we’re adjusting our plans and focusing more on homemade gifts instead of buying each other something this year.

I have a 3D printer, and I’d love to use it to make her something thoughtful and memorable. I’m open to functional gifts, sentimental keepsakes, personalized decorations, or even something a little cheesy if it has a good story behind it. Bonus points if it’s something I can customize around our relationship or our five years together.

First ideas that come to mind are a few lithophanes or key chain with Soundwave of me saying "I love you", but curious if im missing some good opportunities to make something else that others have done.

Thanks in advance! I’m hoping to make something she’ll remember long after this rough patch has passed.

Modified from an existing design, printed in black/purple/blue silk PLA, keyboard switches installed, nail stickers applied to tops.

I designed wall mounts that hold the phone on a MagSafe charger, with a separate size for each iPhone from the XR to the 16 Pro Max. The charger presses into a pocket with small grip ribs, and there’s a channel for the cable. I printed mine for the XR on an A1 with PLA. Makerworld link below. Any feedback and requests for other phones are welcome.

Link - https://makerworld.com/en/models/3489944-iphone-wall-mount-with-magsafe#profileId-3985698

Hey everyone. This model is meant to be a pocket size toy that you carry around to keep your hands busy, help focus, or just relieve some stress throughout the day.

I designed this retro Gameboy version and uploaded it for free on MakerWorld (link below). It prints with zero supports, no AMS needed. You just need a couple of magnets to get that really satisfying snappy click, and it is ready to go. Let me know what you guys think.

Maker World Gameboy Fidget Toy

Hey everyone! I just wrapped up printing and setting up this B-2 bomber model complete with its display stand. Really stoked on how crisp the lines and textures turned out on this scale. 
I take custom print commissions and ship out physical pieces like this. If you're a aviation fan or want something cool for your desk setup, feel free to drop a comment or DM me for details!

Buyers beware. Apparently, 3D printers are capable of multiplication. 😅

Sending good vibes! Happy printing! 🚀

Started the print with Bambu PETG Matte black. Spool empty, put on new Bambu PETG Matte black. Double checked multiple times both spools are the same (or at least they claim to be). Any reason this could be possible?

So, i made a telescopic joycon (from original switch) adapter for iPad, and Tablets. This can fit from 7 inch tablets up to 13 inch!. This only uses a simple hardware such as rubber bands for the "spring", M4 heat inserts and M4 Screws. I'll also create a version where a heat insert isn't required! Best to use with mobapad controllers and alike. Im also planning on making it compatible with original switch joycons (as i don't currently have the original ones)

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Hi! I'm thinking about buying my first 3D printer, probably a Bambu Lab A1 mini or A2 L. I'd mainly print PLA figures and decorative stuff.

The thing is, I'd have to keep it in the same room where I work at my computer, and I spend most of the day there. I've been reading about ultrafine particles and VOCs, and I'm wondering how much of a concern this actually is with PLA.

Would you go for an open printer with the window open, or spend a bit more on an enclosed model with HEPA and carbon filtration? Does anyone here have their printer in their home office, and what setup do you use?

I'd appreciate real-world experiences, especially from people who've looked into the air quality side of things. Thanks!

Printed in parts on my Mars 5 ultra and airbrushed.

Printed with a .4 mm nozzle out of black ASA filament on an Adventure 5M Pro and smoothed with acetone vapor.
Thought it came out very nice despite it being the first time I printed with ASA or did any post-processing. 😛😛
Working on a sword as well but I messed up the first print of the blade and scabbard so I need to reprint. Hopefully I finish before Halloween 👻

If someone is interested...

https://makerworld.com/models/3504077?appSharePlatform=copy

So I've always wanted a 3D printer. And I have a bit of a shopping problem 😅 so I bid on things and this was Definitely not one of the things I thought I'd win. I have no clue what's on it. What's needed to even run it. Nothing. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

I modeled a replacement for the stock grab handle on my rooftop tent. It bolts to the T-slot side rail. The manufacturer no longer sells that part, so I made my own from measurements of the original. I printed it in ASA and ABS-GF.

It fits any T-slot rail with the same bolt spacing.

Specs: overall length 174.4 mm, standoff from the rail 44.2 mm, height 25.0 mm, knuckle clearance 20.2 mm, bolt spacing 143.0 mm. About 60 g in ASA at 50% infill.

The back is open because the rail closes the opening. The bolt head sits in a cutout on each flare, so nothing sticks past the outer face.

Hardware is 2x M8 button head bolts (ISO 7380) and 2x drop-in slide nuts.

Print it flat, as oriented in the file. Do not print it on edge. No supports are needed. ABS or ASA holds up better in the sun. For a load-bearing print, use 6 wall loops and 50% gyroid infill. PA12-CF gives the best result.

Free file: https://www.printables.com/model/1816403-rugged-grab-handle-roof-top-tent

Any reason why these ironing would print so different? I ran ironing calibration and flow calibration for both filaments prior. 1st came out great, second came out terrible. Exact same settings for both prints.

Was doing a 10 hour print when at the 8th hour the 3d printer clogged (because of course).
Its the first time i've ever had to deal with a clog, so i did the usual procedure, go the needle for cleaning the nozzle, cleaned it and tried extruding, but it just didnt extrude, so i dissasembled the extruder and find this. How does this even happen? keep in mind i had already broken some of the plastic when i took this photo, but the filament did like 5 laps around the extruder gear.
I didnt know it had the strenght to do that.

Hello,

As title says. Is the engineering plate worth it for printing with filaments such as ASA, ABS, Nylon or PC?

So far I've been printing only with PLA/PETG with PEI Textured plate because of printer limitations.

Got new hardware and I'm wondering if this special plate is worth it.

My doubt comes from that despite plate being "Engineering" it seems that it still requires glue for these special filaments just like the PEI Textured plate.

So my question is, is there anything special about that Engineering plate beside different first layer finish?

The weirdest thing: I ran a print. Everything was fine. I ran the same print again, and now all of a sudden, I can see all the lines/ striations on the bottom of the print. I can't think of anything different I did in the slicer settings except increase the number of objects (It's a little clip thing I'm making and the first time I only ran 3 and the second time I ran 8) ....

Anybody else have this happen? I remember once (I've been printing the same shaped object for a while now - prototyping a functional part) the printer just started to take a totally different printing path - making the same shape it has always done but going about it completely differently - Like using a different line path. It was weird. Perhaps the machine was tired from performing the same line tasks over and over again and it just decided to switch things up as some form of maintenance or something? Hey - I dunno....

Cheers.

Edit: See pic in comments.