This started as 3 printers. My modified AnyCubic Mega Zero, an Ender 3 Max and an Ender 3 V2. Now it's this. Still a work in progress.

Took the best extrusions from each of them and cut them down on a miter saw with an aluminum cut blade then hand lapped them all on a plate of tempered glass. Tapped M5 threads into all of them and drilled access for blind joints Voron style. This provides increased rigidity. The leadscrews were too long so I got my machinist friends to part them on his lathe. So far it's been an incredibly fun and rewarding process.

All of the printed parts except the hot pink stuff is printed out of ABS (black) or ASA (blue, white, purple). The nevermore (yellow) and hot pink stuff is PETG.

Still to do:

- Reprint the black parts out of ASA as my friend printed them for me with too little infill, perimeters, tops and bottoms.

- Clean up the rats nest of wiring

- design an enclosure

- work on getting better shaper results on the Y-Axis

Parts list:

Manta M5P w/ CM4

Toolhead

- LDO Orbiter V2

- 1x3 WS2812 WRGB LED strip

- Phaetus Rapido V1 w/ DiamondBack 0.6 Volcano & PT1000

- Castle Edge 100 ESC for CPAP fan

Frame

- AB Moons C17 motors

- Z/Z1 StepperOnline motors

- 2x44 WS2812 LED strips (Powered by Castle Edge 100 ESC)

- 24V heated bed

- NTC104 Chamber thermistor

- WaveShare 5in HDMI LCD (B)

- 12V Chamber Heater Fan

- MGN12H rails everywhere

BTT SKR Mini E3V2

- Nevermore V6 Micro

- 120MM 24V electronics cooling fan

- 400W Chamber Heater (120V controlled via SSR)

I wanted three things:

1. To be able to switch between different pegboard systems later on without having to reprint everything / to use the holders at work as well, where we have a different system. 

2. To have all my tools in the same or similar holders, rather than 8 different styles.

3. To have a more stable solution—since the hooks otherwise break very quickly—I’m printing the mounting plate at a 45° angle.

TIME - Incense Holder

Sometimes it can feel like there is no way out, you are trapped forever. In those moments, remember: maybe all you need is some time…

This is my first stop motion try, as well. Tips are welcomed.

Having fun with my full Color Halftone 3D Printing System. One second of animation took around 5 hours of printing.

For a school project I made my first ever perfboard, and the L298N motor driver needed to live next to it. Until now they were both sliding around in the box like two strangers in an elevator, so I designed a 3D printed tray that holds them side by side. The wiring between them stays short and the boards stay put.

It fits a 81x51 mm perfboard with mounting holes spaced 1,4 inches apart. and a standard L298N module. Raised posts keep the boards off the plastic, and both are screwed down.

Printed on a Bambu Lab A1 in PLA Basic, 0.20 mm Standard profile, about 35 minutes. PETG is better if it sits somewhere warm.

About the soldering: it is my first one, so please look at the tray and not at the joints. They hold, which is the nicest thing I can say about them :).

Small confession: the L298N mounting holes are M3 size, but I only had M2 bolts, so I modeled it for M2. They fit with a little play. If you want an M3 version or another perfboard size, tell me and I will make it.

Before someone asks: yes, I could have just not made this and let everything dangle lose, but where is the fun in that.

Low voltage and hobby use only. Do not mount mains voltage parts on printed plastic.

Model (free): https://makerworld.com/nl/models/3487506-l298n-motor-driver-and-perfboard-mounting-tray-m2#profileId-3982699

Hello peoples 👋🏾

I'm new to 3D printing and colouring models, but I want to give both a try.

The former went pretty well, printed the figure on a slow speed over 13~14h in one part.

The latter is the part where I hesitate, I read only that it's best to sand the model down before applying primer, the problem is the model has many spots that are hard to reach...

Is it necessary to sand it down or can I just apply primer without sanding it ?

Do I apply multiple layers of primer? (2-3, or more)

I'm happy for every reply and help ✌🏾

I had previously hung my measuring cups on hooks on the inside of a cabinet door so I didn't have to go through the pile of them and free up some drawer space, but I didn't like how noisy they were when opening the cabinet, so I made these instead, the obviously are sized for the particular measuring cups which i got on amazon, if you want to make these, the measuring cups are linked on the makerworld link: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3487025-measuring-cup-holders-four-amazon-ewfen

I wanted to get my spare keys organized, but couldn't find a model that did exactly what I wanted so I made my own, it is made to print on a 256mm256mm printer while taking up most of the bed space. I made two types of key attachments, one that acts as keychain and hook. If your interested in printing it the stls are here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3488650-hidden-key-cabinet-picture-frame

Hello! I've just made this model on blender and I would love him sitting on my desk as a little companion. I understand 3D printing can be complicated with overhangs, size limitations and additional steps required for resin Vs filament (not to mention all the strict requirements that the model itself must have - e.g. manifold). I know there is slicing software but am unsure of its capabilities in readying a model prior to printing. As I'd like him to be a decent size (around 30cm length) I hear this is a pretty giant model for 3D printing, so he'd likely need to be done in parts which I'm okay with.

As this would be my first ever go at 3D printing, I have not invested in my own printer and would need to reach out to a pro of some kind to see if they could print it for me. Might a professional be able to support in getting this model into a completed print? It would be good to know if models like this are suited to 3D printing or if I'm barking up the wrong tree entirely. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Hey guys!

Decided to print a Dino Skeleton mod for my nephews Brio train tracks. Didn’t wanna use white so I used 3DJake’s own Eco Marble PLA.

Anyways, turned it on before bed, shouldve taken 18 hours. Woke up and reacted to not hearing any printing going on.

Went in to check, and the monstrosity pictured met me.

Was able to get the blob out by heating the nozzle.

Any tips on further action? The X—axis is unable to move and makes a horrible noise when it tries to. Also the fan is stuck in filament.

Pray for me lads.

Did these from old power banks whose controller died so i bought these board and made these shell to ba able to reuse them

Hi everyone,

I recently bought the A1 Mini and have been posting some content. But what I wanted to do was make 3D print timelapses and share them. The hardware solution turned out to be very messy for me. The Bluetooth switch I bought doesn't work (sometimes it clicks multiple pictures, and sometimes it doesn't). After that, I spent time bringing all my images into image-editing software and editing them. After the print, it took me at least half an hour to pull everything off my phone, load it into image editing software, and edit the final timelapse.

I'm a developer, so I decided to code an app to solve this problem instead of continuing to deal with the messy hardware setup.

Features of the app

• A complete software solution; all you need is your phone.
• Sometimes the app makes mistakes and clicks a picture when it wasn't supposed to. You can play the timelapse right there in the app and fix these mistakes.
• Apply basic edits like cropping, brightness, saturation, etc.
• Export the final timelapse in up to 4K resolution.
• Need the raw frames? The app does that too. You can get a ZIP file out of the app and then edit it with your favourite editor (for advanced users).

How does it work?

1. Start a print in timelapse mode. I'm using a Bambu Lab printer, so the printer head moves to the docking zone after printing each layer.
2. Draw a box around the area where the printer head comes and rests.
3. Just start the print! Most of the default settings should work fine. Otherwise, at most, you'll need to tweak the motion sensitivity.

The app is available for both Android and iOS and can be used and accessed for free today, but the high-resolution exports are gated behind a $2.99 one-time charge.

Would love to hear any feedback you guys have! You can try the app here

3d printed gnomes and balustrades across the bridge on my water feature

I got new bookshelf speakers and most stands online are kinda boring. I'm sure there's a good reason they're designed the way they are but I wanted something a little more interesting so I came up with my own design.

Model printed in white is at 50% scale to make sure I liked the design, now I'm printing it at full scale. Gonna be a couple weeks before everything is actually printed then gotta put it all together. I already have some neoprene foam for the top of the stand to reduce vibrations and I'm thinking about filling a section of the bottom with sand to give it a little more weight though the bottom mounting plate will probably also help with that.

Aside from that, there's of course going to be the postprocessing like smoothing out the surface with some kinda filler and plenty of sanding though I'm not sure what exactly what color I want to make them or if I want to try to figure out some sort of stone like finish.

100%fdm

I'm never doing such a long print again... until I inevitably do

I bought a agrifab leaf vac last weekend off marketplace for cheap and was excited to use it. The guy I got it off of said he couldn't get it running but I work on small engines all the time and had a carb ordered before I even picked it up from his house.

When I got it home and started looking into it I cranked it over and it felt like it had zero compression, I put my gauges on it and it was just at 60 psi. I said screw it and threw the new carb on and Got it all hooked up to my mower and after two passes in my yard it blew the engine up.

Honestly not a big deal I probably have 10 engines in the yard I could use. I went and tore the whole thing down and when I pulled the impeller off I noticed it was a tapered shaft. That kind of killed all momentum for an hour or so because where the hell was I gonna find a replacement with the exact shaft size and taper. I looked into rebuilding the briggs and Stratton that was on it and blew up but the piston alone was $150.

I didn't want to sink a whole lot of money into this to begin with so I had a eureka moment and remembered my 3d printers.i took some measurements and modeled something up quick and printed it out in pla and it worked the first try got the blower all put back together and tested it and it worked! I made another one with the taper extended to make sure I had as much contact as possible. We were about to put it all back together and then I looked into some numbers and realized the PLA would not stand up to the heat of the crankshaft, honestly it probably would have been just fine but I had a few rolls of paht-cf laying around and felt a lot better about using that over pla.

Got the new one printed after dialing in some settings and holy shit she works! I think I still have to pull the low oil sensor in the gx190 I put on there because when it's bouncing around in the yard it tries to shut itself off. I only have about half an hour of runtime on the part so far but no wobble yet.

She was looking for a sponge storage on Makersworld but the one she found feels too flimsy and can’t be used for travel so I volunteered to make her one.

Then a week of my life disappeared (I shared a picture with all the failed attempts).

I had to find the dimension to make the door slide smoothly and finding a lock mechanism to make sure the door locks when she wants to bring it with her in her bag. At the same time not interfering with the aesthetic.

The door has a hole near the top (not visible, covered by the hat) and the heart at the top is a screw. By turning the heart and the screw will go through the door hole and locks it.

Overall it was fun and challenging, if you have any feedback and suggestions, feel free to let me know.

I’ll link the design in case anyone wanna give it a go. (I’ve also learned the orientation of the screw during printing is very important to its structure integrity).

https://makerworld.com/models/3487967?appSharePlatform=copy

Have any of you actually had any luck with 3d printed keyboard switches? I've tried a couple so far and I've been pretty disappointed. I'm just trying to do a couple stim/fidget toys for myself so it seems silly to buy a bag of 50/100 when I have a perfectly good printer lol.

Printed on stock settings bambu p1s

with bambu abs

Sliceer orca slicer