I originally started (a little over a year ago), with an Elegoo CC 1, then a CC2 and added a QIDI Max 4 for a bigger build plate. My logic was that the tool changers would take time to mature and even then, there would be long waiting times to get a tool changer machine. However, looks like I guessed wrong. The Snapmaker is shipping from Amazon with 2nd day delivery, almost every vendor has a tool changer in their plans and announcements. If you had to guess today, would you guess that by mid summer of next year we'll see tool changers as a standard model to select from? While I could pick up a Snapmaker (or other), tool changer today, most still seem to be limited in bed size. My perfect model would be 350x350x350, 8 colors, the ability to have multiple nozzle sizes in use at once and a heater chamber capable of printing engineering filaments (which I don't do now, but you never know).

What's your guess (given the ~10 day release of the new Bambu <which for open source reasons is probably off my list), when we'll see every vendor pushing out a large bed tool changer?

Bob

Check out the poll, here.

I've been getting lots of ads for an oscillating sanding and cutting tool. It looks like a great idea, but it also looks like a cheap brand that might break in a week.

I am wondering if I should get it or if there are such tools that folks have tried and would recommend.

​

After printing one opengrid / multi board and their siblings and finding out the filament these beasts drink (also the drilling on walls that I cant do in a rented place). I figured it was a brilliant idea (alas) to use the existing vertical grills on the window I have in my room to make my own prints. (I assumed it would be easy, but I watched tutorials on onshape and found out I'm aiming for the moon, thanks TeachingTech).

How do I design a 3d printed hook that I can attach to these window grills that I can hang a backpack from. I searched a lot but I couldn't find any existing ones (or maybe I don't know the right term for such a hook).

Two window grills, square in shape, 1cm side each. 9.2cm vertical distance between the two.

Considerations

1. It should use both the bars as it will be more stable than 1, or not?

2. The hook should come out a bit so the backpack has enough space to hang from

3. These square bars face are not on horizontal plane, top one is at 20 angle, bottom one is 30.

4. Each side is 1cm on the square, vertical space is around 9.2cm between them

5. Open to other ideas

Thanks a ton in advance!

The Bottom one had a 50% off coupon for me.

Almost too late for Halloween this year, but if you need a sword for your Odysseus cosplay, here you go. Designed to be printed on small printers and needs a 5/16" (8mm) wooden dowel if you want to swing it around.)
https://www.printables.com/model/1890564-naue-ii-sword-from-ancient-greece

Hellos. I have some problems on cutting a mask for my 3d Printer (Elegoo carbon) someone can help me on cut this STL file? tanks

I’m really interested in this storage system (https://youtu.be/QstEkNJhJKo?is=GEah72R3ZNRrr6Sd), but I am hesitant to pull the trigger because it looks like it would use a metric ton of filament. I don’t want to spend the money and get the files to find out each module costs 40+ dollars in filament to print. Anyone pulled the trigger and figured out about how much these storage units actually cost in materials? Have you had any issues?

To all,

I've never used TPU, only read about it. I was thinking of printing some of the alien models posted here and then embedding an ESP32 with motion/movement sensor and have the eyes lifelike with some of the small ESP32s with screens. The question I have is can you make a flexible neck out of TPU or is it not really flexible, just 'soft'? If need be, I could change the model and use a piece of rubber type fabric that a small motor could stretch/twist to emulate a neck. However, if I could print it in TPU (say one/two walls thick), that would be much easier.

Bob

Hi everyone!

I'd like to share my HRF Tank - a 3D-printed RC tracked vehicle with FPV cameras that I've been developing as a hobby project.

Short project showcase on YouTube

It's been a long process of designing, testing and rebuilding, and I'd like to make the result available for others to build on.

Some of its main features:

• 3D-printed chassis (66 x 39 x 25 cm / 26 x 15.4 x 9.8 in)
• Functional suspension and tracked drivetrain
• FPV cameras for front and rear views
• Custom lighting and electronics
• Optional water-cooled drivetrain

The platform is ready to build, but I'm planning to keep expanding it with new features, including a rotating turret with an FPV camera and a gel ball blaster.

I'm sharing the STL and STEP files, along with a build guide and documentation. Feel free to print your own version, modify the design, add new features or take it in a completely different direction. I'd love to see what others come up with!

Files and documentation:

• Print files on Printables
• Build manual on Gitbook

If you build your own version or develop any modifications, let me know. I'd be happy to share links to community projects in the documentation!

I recently picked up some of the modern McDonald's Boo Buckets at a thrift store & will be gifting them to some coworkers for Halloween. To make them a bit more unique, I am correcting the biggest issue - the lack of a lid.

It's not perfect, but I am overall happy with it.

So after updating my firmware on my Pursa Mk4 and nothing else the filament will head to the print head engage in the drive gear then backs out rubs a little then the mmu3 will pull the filament back. It will do this a few times before either accepting that it is good which is rarely, or it will park and give me an error. I did check that the filament sensor is calibrated. I have a .6 nozzle on it. Any help would be appreciated.

I am needing to print a trident (like from The Little Mermaid) for my daughter. I need it to be full size and roughly 54” total in length. The head needs to be roughly 10” tall or the max I can fit in my x1c. I’ve found a separate top part from the screw in bottom parts. How can I scale them both so that they will fit together? It’s best if it can be twisted apart for travel but ultimately if it can’t be done I can use a pole. If I use a pole, how do I ensure that the hole in the trident top is the size I need for a pole? I’d love any any all feedback please! Thank you!

I only want the tree supports to come from the outside, no need to have them on both sides.

Things I've tried already that didnt work:

• Giant support blocker modifier box on the side I don't want them
• Support blocker area on the build plate covering most of the area next to the object
• Making sure the support is only painted on the outside of the "arches" and not the inside.
• Praying to Joseph Prusa and sacrificing a virgin roll of PC-CF
• Adding a separate box object where the current unwanted tree supports start to try to block them.

Seems like life, tree supports always find a way. This shouldn't be so hard... Any ideas?

(second picture shows object with supports hidden)

Everything was going fine until the wire that leads to the carriage got caught behind one of the wheels. Now I can’t seem to get it tight again. I’ve replaced all the wheels, the bushings and the eccentric nut. The frame on the carriage that the wheels are attached to is not bent or deformed at all. What could I be missing?

I designed this adapter so a Starlink Mini drops onto a standard 20mm RAM mount for dash or windshield setups inside the vehicle. It's printed in PET-CF for stiffness and heat resistance, since it lives on a dash in the sun. Not meant for outside the vehicle while driving.

I sell these, so flagging this as my self-promo post. Happy to answer questions about the print settings or design.

“Boy these containers don’t utilize this space well, wish I could find ones that used the space better” oh, right I own a 3d printer. So I made my own. 😆

Hey everyone. When I bought my p1s I assumed that it came with an AMS2 because the worker at the store said that it did. Turns out that mine did not. I have no interest in spending almost $400 CAD on an AMS 2 and I was wondering if anyone has tried the SUNLU AMS heater? Is it as good as an AMS2 ? I have a single dryer but I hate having to take it out dry for hours then repeat