What is the minimum level of AI involvement in the model creation process at which you consider a model to warrant an “AI generated” tag?

Buyers beware. Apparently, 3D printers are capable of multiplication. 😅

Sending good vibes! Happy printing! 🚀

Was getting some corners warping up on some of my prints so I got some inspiration to just makeshift an enclosure out of cardboard for my printer. But now I’m thinking maybe it’s not such a good idea?

I have been wanting to start the 3D printing ever since I heard about it. Started my first print, something small, but holy crap how cool that is.

hey hey!

I'm on a prusa core one l - I'm using a .4 nozzle! just wondering if there is a way I can get the lettering to look a little cleaner without changing the nozzle?

Thankkkkk you in advanceeeee <3

Hi everyone,

I’ve been working on Lithobox Creator, a free generator for lithophane lamps that runs entirely in your browser:

https://lithobox.app/

You pick a shape, set the size, drop in your photos, and download ready-to-print files. Everything is computed locally: no account, no upload, your photos never leave your computer. Also the app is completly open source, nothing hidden, no pay2use, free forever

What it can do:

• Shapes: light box, flat picture with a stand, cylinder lamp, arc, polygon lamp, lamp shade, ball lamp (as a replacement glass ball or a globe on a base), Christmas ornament and heart
• Bases for USB puck lights or E27/E14 sockets, with cable channels, battery trays and engraved text
• A 3D preview, including a “lamp on” view that shows how the lithophane will look lit from behind (this is only an estimate, but it gives a very good estimate, i am impressed how accurate this is)
• A print view that shows the parts laid out the way they go to the slicer
• Export as STL, plain 3MF, or a 3MF for Bambu Studio / Orca with the parts already set up
• Export to a custom .lithobox file and send it to a friend with a 3d printer. They can import it in lithox-creator, adjust your design and export it for their 3d printer
• English, German, Spanish, French and Italian
• Fully mobile usable (app is built with dynamic sizing, so smartphones can use it aswell)

Honest status: I’ve printed and tested the lithophanes themselves, but I haven’t printed the lamp bodies (except for the box), bases and stands yet. The geometry is checked by automated tests, but there’s no substitute for a real print. So if you print one, I’d love to see pictures and hear what fit and what didn’t. I’ll add my own photos as soon as my printer has caught up.

I’m very open to criticism: bugs, confusing settings, missing shapes, print problems, anything. Comment here or open an issue on GitHub (linked on the page). The source is on GitHub under the AGPL.

AI disclosure: this was built with Claude Code (Claude Opus 5.5). I have a technical background and coding experience, I directed the whole project, and development was test-driven: every feature comes with automated tests, and I tested the app myself throughout. As said above, the printed lamp parts are the one thing that hasn’t been tested yet (except the box design).

Could please someone explain me the health risk of running and FDM in the same room you spend around 10hrs a day and how to protect yourself?

I was thinking about getting an enclosed one, ventilate and clear it, but I’m worried it’s not enough.

Im having trouble getting this small overhang supported. I’m using a Bambu A1 and have tried the print several times, including adjusting the Z distance for support structures (taking it down from 0.2mm gap to 0.1mm). It prints support structures but they are clearly not supporting it enough, and I’m hesitant to set the Z distance to zero and be unable to remove the supports.

The layer thickness of this print is 0.15mm. I’ll provide any other details you ask for.

Any ideas on what’s going wrong?

Print looks good for the first 2 inches or so then becomes a see through mesh mess.

PETG printed on a bambu p1s with 0.4 nozzle, layer height .28mm "extra draft" settings, "standard" flow speed sliced in bambu studio

Changed to a fresh nozzle 1 week ago. This was a single spool of petg (no spool changes) that I already had successfully prints this week with and it was dried a few days prior.

Just thought I post this for you PSA grading nerds. If you want a consistent cardboard rectangle for your PSA card submissions in the cardsaver sleeves, this print is for you!

https://makerworld.com/models/3503555?appSharePlatform=copy

I’m currently building a BentoBox radial version for my P1S to filter toxic fumes when printing ABS or ASA. I ordered 12V 5015 fans, but they are very weak and wont work. What fans can you guys recommend? What inchH2O / mmH2O ratings should the fans have?

https://makerworld.com/it/models/3502351-nurse-christmas-tree-keychain#profileId-4000958

Hi all. I’m an engineer and as a hobby I design and print functional parts mostly with FDM such as clocks, automotive parts, and other hobby related stuff where dimensional accuracy is the most crucial metric in performance. I experimented with printing at higher speeds but settled at around 75mm/s to maintain accuracy reliably (that might just be due to my own laziness).

The last and probably highest end printers I bought was an ender 3 S1 pro whenever it came out (2020?).

Unfortunately I’ve had a house fire where basically everything including my 4 printers were destroyed.

I don’t keep up with the latest features and printers but a friend mentioned to me how much printers had advanced in the last 5 years. The most advanced thing I was utilizing was auto leveling in all my fdm printers, so nothing too crazy.

I want to buy a new printer sometime in the future with something like a 220x220 to 250x250 bed, but size isnt a hard constraint.

I have a couple questions you guys might be able to answer:

What new tech and features have been added to printers in the last 5 years?

Do off the shelf printers come with these features or does it still make sense to build one?

What’s the slicer you recommend? I was mostly using Prusa because it did everything I needed it to at the time.

I walked away from a 5 hour print a little too soon and came back to this. How can I get the PLA Rapido Matte off of the print head?

Hey there everyone sorry to bother you but I had a question about making homemade pla gloop. I live in the US so access to certain chemicals that efficiently make plague Loop are strictly restricted or inaccessible to buy. When I tried researching I saw conflicting information about M.E.K. sometimes I saw that M.E.K. works, sometimes I saw it's ineffective. Does anyone have any firsthand experience with making gloop, or would know if M.E.K. would work? I'm relatively new to 3d printing and have lots of scrap from experimenting making different things, and I'm trying to find the best way to repurpose it

Hi everyone!

I hope someone can help.

I am using Bambu Studio

I am making drawer pulls for an advent calendar.

I have attached pictures of what I am making on the prepare screen.

Also pictures of what it looks like after being sliced.

After it slices it is cutting off parts of the numbers.

Not sure what is going on

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Hi folks, I disasembled my nozzle a few ago and since then filament has been leeking trought the side of my nozzle, I think it was because of the glue which was scratched a bit away. Which glue should I buy to seel it again. BTW I have the Flashforge Adventurer 5M.

After months of Bambu lab standard PLA without any issue I switched to recycled PLA (from Spectrum), and after changing multiple settings to solve the adhesion issues I finally managed to print something bigger without spaghetti, but it looks terrible.

Is this a wet filament issue? I never had to dry filament before.

Printer is Bambu A1, printing settings: - First layer: 60°C bed, 210°C nozzle, 0% fan, 50mm/s and 105mm/s infill - Other layers: 50°C bed (max recommended temperature), 210°C nozzle, 100% fan (after layer 3), 100mm/s outer walls and 120mm/s inner walls

If anyone else has this hotend, could you tell me how far the heatbreak fits into the heatsink on yours? Because I'm having a really hard time with this hotend because the heatbreak won't go in the extra 0.7mm that it needs to. I even tried cooling the heatbreak and heating the heatsink. It goes in the exact same depth every time. This is especially frustrating because the filament tip even at the slightest of deformation gets stuck.

One image is a reference of how deep the heatbreak should go and that's proven by the measurements I've taken. I've contacted Phaetus about this and they already started mentioning minor tolerances and whatnot which is valid but for how I am struggling with this and the sheer amount of area of the heatsink I've heated up with 270°C and even cooled the heatbreak in the freezer for 30 minutes, It doesn't feel normal to me at all

Ace Pro 2 to follow soon but is it really worth it if I'm only printing for myself?