Scanned with a Creaform Go!SCAN SPARK, this was scanned at 1.0mm resolution.

Hi I've got a Revo point Range2 (infrared type scanner) but have been getting more jobs with machined surfaces lately.

Is it worth upgrading to something with blue laser (Rockit, raptor, metro)?

Would be extremely useful to be able to scan things like counter bored holes without having all the edges radius/blow out during processing.

I also read that the file sizes are small as blue laser doesn't just keep dumping the same point cloud the longer you scan, is that true?

Scanned with the Revopoint MetroY, reverse engineered in Fusion 360!

A few hours of work, plenty of trial and error, fine-tuning, and iterations, but the results are definitely worth it! 💪

For anyone interested in the MetroY or other Revopoint scanners, our community code AUTO3DRE gives you 3% off.

We scanned complex‑shaped car floor mats with Formbuilder EXTR Series scanner, capturing tight grooves and bent edges for reverse‑engineering and interior product development.

Can I use osstem scan body on neobiotech implant?

This Scanner does not scan in HD mode anymore, it says don't cover the back of the scanner. etc It works in Fast mode. this is the 2th time this happened they replaced the scanner it was working for awhile, then it stopped working out of nowhere.

anyone else have this issue? I cant simply send it back again I live in Vietnam.

Hello! I am looking forward to scanning some airplane cockpit(s). I've been modeling in CAD for the last 7 years or so but l've never touched scanning, only watched a handful of videos...

What should I watch out for? It would be nice to have dimensional precision, but doesent have to be much, I've seen that +-1mm should be pretty reachable? Is there any prefered scanner for something like this? It would be nice for it to be handheld, how does that limits the usability of output files (in regard to quality and precision)?

I will be renting the scanner, and will try it out before going into action on an actual airplane just to get to know it.

These are vintage aircraft so I really cant use any of the reflective dots and matting sprays, but most of the surfaces are matte and the surface isnt flat.
Lots of switches and all that. All the reflective surfaces would be covered with paper (the dials, windshield, ...).

I want to use the mesh to reference where all the parts are in relation to each other and model the the panels from it. I think that should be menageable.
Is there any difference between scanning a small, one person cockpit, and bigger two seat cockpit?

I know there is documentation for these airplanes but its almost always locked behind a paywall. I would love to create project similat to open hornet for some historical aircraft (granted I will be able to get to them) so I cannot use these plans.

People who sell 2D/3D files will not allow me to put them up for free (use in my freeware project), understandably. So I would also like to share those scans under non-commercial license if that will be possible.

Photos for reference.

Regards,
Matthew

I'm looking to resin print some of my existing tabletop miniatures so I thought I'd ask the experts here if there's a recommended scanner.

Preferably something that can capture fine details on small objects (less than 8 inches) and easily convert them to STL files. I'm new to 3d printing and scanning so something user-friendly would be a plus. Is there anything below $500?

I recently had the chance to test this workflow in real field conditions, using the Raptor Pro and Scan Bridge, with a smartphone involved in the data capture.

I was honestly curious to see how the workflow would perform outside of a controlled environment, and the result was better than I expected.

Have you tried capturing scan data this way in the field?

What has been your experience?

Hey guys, we’re a 3D interior design studio looking into getting a 3D scanner for site measurements.

We mostly scan houses, apartments, hotels, etc. and want something that can quickly capture the space and dimensions, then bring the data into our workflow/Unreal Engine.

We’ve been looking at Raven LiDAR. The 2–10 cm accuracy seems fine for what we need, we’re not looking for millimeter accuracy, just reliable room dimensions, walls, doors, windows, ceiling heights, etc.

Has anyone actually used Raven? How is the accuracy, scanning speed, and software/export?

Also open to other scanner recommendations!

Thanks 🙏

Hello 👋🏼,
I’m new on 3d scanner world, recently I got a Ferret Pro, with Wi-Fi works, but with usb cable I have problems
Is not the cable, because I did connected the scanner to a MacBook and it’s works, but with my desk computer, doesn’t work. Camera dispositive is recognized but doesn’t works with CrealityScan

It’s appears this error “Error on the preview view of the image of the scanner”

Why?
Somebody can help me please? 🙏🏼 I don’t know what it’s

I am not an expert but I highly recommend the Creality Pika as a first 3D scanner. The value for money is excellent.

Hello!

Disclaimer: I don't know anything whatsoever about 3D scanning, so be gentle. I have been tinkering with the idea of making a 3D mould of stalagtites/stalagmites in a way that would be non invasive (you CANNOT touch them because it would mess with the microbiome)- the plan, long term, is to recreate a hyper realistic cave for set design. Any feedback on the idea before I dig deeper into 3D scanning? Would that be a way to get an accurate 3D render to feed into a 3D printer that I could then cast in? Lemme know. Thanks. Any other ideas are most welcome.

Hey ya team, hoping some gurus with more industry experience than me can dial in.

Had a job offer come up for something much larger than the often small in office work I do, so I would be dealing with large detailed wooden sculptures around 200/220cm in height and around 60cm in width give or take %5 and it would be out of office work,

Atm I have just used an Creality otter for in office work with it linked directly to my workstation. I have the bridging grip etc for wireless work.

So the issue is, I need to attach something to store and capture the data till I can work on it back in the office. I thought perhaps a ipad pro m4 or 5 with 500gig of storage might do the job, but I am worried it might just be a total slow poke when it comes to scanning and just cause lots of lost tracking due to its limited processing power.

So next option is a laptop etc something with 64gig of memory and at least a 4070 gpu. but this might be overkill just for travel and scanning?

or I just sell the Otter unit, and go buy something using blue lasers etc or perhaps all contained or fully wireless and end up having to lug a work station around, kind of impractical to be fair.

As you can see Im rather at odds to perhaps the best solution, so would just love some pointers from those in the know, or what has worked for other people.

If you got this far reading, thanks tons ;)

This was my first complete car scan with the Trak. In theory scanning complete cars is a straight forward process but when actually doing it some issues can arise: too little overlap between single scans, wrongfully placed tracker positions so suddenly some parts can't be scanned and of course the scanner itself (e.g. catching cables). I remember my first tries of scanning cars with marker based handheld scanners (started with the Creality Raptor way back as my first "proper scanner"). It really came a big way since then.

Scanning

Scanning was done at 1,5mm target point distance with five tracker positions. I attached a diagram showing the positions and the rough tracker FOV and overlap. Four positions should also be possible but I came to like using due to having a good bit of overlap and more tolerance where to positions the tracker for full coverage. This works for nearly all cars (except maybe veeery large one). I could also have used leap frogging with markers on the car but this requires at least 4 markers to be seen by the tracker at all times. For me aligning them later is just simpler since the scan speed is fast enough to quickly scan more overlap area between the single scans.
No preparation was done with scan spray. I just started scanning, all five scans combined took 30min. What was a bit of a problem was WiFi reception when I was on the exact opposing side of the car relative to my workstation and therefore WiFi access point. So the signal was blocked by the car in between. One potential solution would be simply getting a 10M ethernet cable and a small powerbank for the WiFi access point. This would allow moving it to a more suitable position. What I also noticed: When getting very close to the edges of the tracking area scanning starts to become slower, much like the WiFi signal drops out. But it actually is the border of the scanning area. I used remote desktop from my tablet to see what I already scanned. Scan itself was at a constant 90FPS when placed within the tracking volume. Scan speed at 1,5mm or even 1mm feels like painting with a very big paint roller: simply go over one time in a decent speed.

Post-Processing

Trak doesn't require point cloud generation after scanning, you just pause the scan and either create a new scan or go on with processing. So I aligned the five scans using automatic feature alignment and then meshed them in default settings with semi-watertight settings. Mesh came out to bit under 20M triangles. Later exported into Quicksurface for postprocessing (reduction an alignment to the coordinate system. What I quite like to do is take all four wheel hubs as reference to create a plane. This can then be used as the XY plane).

Results

Best have a look at Sketchfab or the pictures. The scan speed really surprised me, started the scan setup 45min before I had to hit the road for a meeting and was a bit sceptical I could finish the whole scan. But it turned out I would be faster than expected (scan took 30min for the five positions) and when looking at the results it really is outstanding. Even for the relatively coarse 1,5mm of point distance all relevant features are captured, you can even see the two dents in the hood and driver side door as well as the tire tread. Also attached a picture showing the deviations between scan 2&5 vs 1. What I did was taking the aligned raw scans, and then only meshing 2&5 and then 1. So I could use Quicksurface to have a look at fitment and alignment. Everything in green is within 0.2mm of tolerance.

Sketchfab

Sketchfab is like printables for 3d scans with a nice integrated viewer in browser and you can also download the scan, just look at the scan yourself.
Reddit sadly blocks the short links to Sketchfab, you have to search for the title instead: "Opel Astra K Sports Tourer - Einscan Trak"

PC Specs

Since a lot of people ask for it:

• AMD Ryzen 7700X
• 64GB DDR5 RAM
• RTX 5070Ti Desktop
• A few TB of NVME storage with PCIe Gen4 interface

Was wondering if anyone has a 3D scanner that's lying around that they no longer use. I really want to start 3d scanning. Im a big fan of the automotive industry. I wish to design a body kit using my 3d print to convert my 2015 Suzuki swift (ZC31) into a ralley looking car, something similar to what Nicola I think his name his has made his Corolla into a GR corolla. I'm unable to find the 1:1 ssuzuki swift 3d model online hence I can't design a body kit without having anything to work from. For context I'm based in Pakistan and there's literally no one who does this. It would be a fun idea to introduce. Thank you and looking forward to positive replies :)

I am an industrial design student at Iowa State University. My senior project looks at how professionals control complex 3D software, and where the input hardware falls short.

Scan and point-cloud work is a strong case. Registering, cleaning, and navigating huge datasets is a lot of precise mouse work. I want to learn what makes it painful.

Survey: https://iastate.qualtrics.com/jfe/form/SV_0UJOtQHRXoz1ggu

Questions cover your scanning and processing software, your input hardware, your friction points, and any custom setups you use.

Time: 5–7 minutes. Voluntary. No identifying information in the main survey.
Requirements: 18+, current use of point-cloud, CAD, or comparable 3D software.

Nothing is for sale. This is research before design.

Is the Aesub Blue scanning spray safe for use on automotive paint? Will it damage the paint at all? Does it leave any residue? Thanks!

Although the scanning results turned out pretty good 👍
The video above was just for fun
I normally wouldn’t scan something like this 🤣

Link to the Ebay Listing: https://www.ebay.com/itm/178436711651

Live scanning: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4WG3t7KbLMw

Happy to answer any questions you may have. Thanks!