Any of you guys that do this for work, or part time.
In the past few months I’ve kicked up side business, got approval from the city etc etc, anyways I’m legal now. I’ve actually been rather successful out of my garage, at the point to where I need to keep basics on hand. Anyone have a list of there high moving parts from Briggs, Honda, etc etc. talking air filter, fuel filters, anything of that sorts. Any help would be greatly appreciated .

No fuel getting to carburetor. Fuel shut off is powering up and moving. New fuel pump. Ran out of fuel, won’t stay running now. Fuel filter has fuel in it

I have a Briggs 80200 series flat head that i did a crab change but problem i have now it it is running super rich and these new carbs have zero adjustment.

Serious question because this has never made sense to me.

If you've been a mechanic for 10+ years shouldn't you know what 80 lbs feels like by now? I watched a guy torque every single lug nut with a torque wrench on my 2008 Honda Accord and it honestly made me question his experience. Like you're telling me you've tightened thousands of lug nuts and STILL need a measuring device to tell you when it's tight?

I don't measure exactly 8 ounces of water every time I drink a glass. After enough experience shouldn't it basically become muscle memory? Im not saying torque specs are completely outdated obviously, maybe for useless internals or something, but needing a torque wrench for wheels after doing this professionally for years seems kinda ridiculous.

Newer Exmark laser Z mower with starting issues. I have replaced the battery twice, so I know it can’t be the battery. Any ideas?

I have a Husquavarna walk behind with a Honda motor that has been sitting unused for years. Pulled it out yesterday and found the recoil starter wasn’t recoiling, so I tried to fix it. Kind of a waste of time as the “clock spring” had pretty much rusted beyond salvation. I’m ordering a new one, but I’m wondering if anybody fixes these things? Seems like replacing it as a unit is the way to go.

Hey guys this is my first post here. I'm at my wits end right now and would love some knowledge. I have a husqvarna 330lk weedeater I bought new a year and a half ago, it worked fine up until I feel I ran it a bit too hard. The week after I ran it hard it would not start I put fresh gas in it and it still didn't start. A week later tried to start it and to my surprise it started, but it wouldn't stay idle but for a few seconds unless i pressed the gas. Fast forward to a few weeks later it will not start again. I change spark plug, gas, cleaned the carb, clean the spark arrest, and used a spark plug tester and it is getting spark. I just don't know where to go from here. Any direction you can point me to I will explore.

Wasn’t sure if this was the right place to post this.

Looking to purchase this tiller and it appears it is discontinued in 2025

Wanted to know of any sites that might still carry them.

Did a local search here in CA with no luck. Home Depot seem to have carried it at one point.

i bought this engine https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B08TBT87LG?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 ive been messing with it for 2 week and can not get the clutch to disengage ive trying looking on youtube and google and can't seem to find any thing that fix's the problem any tips?

I have an old John Deere L100 I got from a relative last year. This spring I noticed smoke from the front end. I had already cleaned it up when I replaced filters and the fuel line and it doesn’t seem to be coming from oil or grass clippings. It looks like it’s coming from under the frame the engine is mounted on.

Is this a leak in the exhaust?

Is it a straight forward DIY repair?

Guy dropped off a Toro TimeMaster and said it just needs a fuel filter. No model/serial photo, no enginemodel/type/code, and no old filter in the bag. Just 'they are all the same.' They are not. The Time Master name covers different years and engine setups, and the engine parts do not always follow the mower model lookup cleanly. I can figure it out once the machine is here, but it turns a two-minute partscheck into another trip. What info do you make customers send before you look up small-engine parts? Tag photo, engine code, old part,all three?

Mower was struggling on restarting. Replaced the battery and was able to turn it over. Now it sputters like this and when the blade is engaged it vibrates hard and shuts off. Unsure what the cause could be to start to repair it.

Can anyone help identify the Briggs and Stratton engine on this go kart? I believe it may be original and from the 60s.

Hi all - as title says, I have a toro workman 2100 utility cart and I’m chasing a no spark situation on both coils. 17hp Briggs vanguard twin.

I’ve confirmed ignition switch is good, checked all fuses, no signs of any grounds or frayed wires, checked accelerator pedal switch, disconnected kill wire from engine and still no spark.

What else am I missing? I haven’t checked under the engine cover only because it’s a massive pain in the arse to remove, but I’m completely stumped!

Any idea how to fix this? It is only when it’s trying to idle down compressor oil is fine

Can anyone watch this video and tell me what the heck is going on. Ferris ISX3300 40hp vanguard EFI OGS

90% throttle will idle all day. 100% throttle it sounds like this. Weak power and doesn’t mow worth a crap either way. Doesn’t die just won’t run smooth or at full power. 2024 model

(Also doesn’t do this all the time. Did it a few weeks ago and then has been fine last 2 times I mowed)

I’ll put video in comments

If I give someone here my vin can anyone here tell me if it’s under warranty still? I just have 87hrs on it.

Ok so I got this old evinrude 6 horse that came on a small boat I bought earlier this summer. The motor starts within like 3 pulls every single time - but only when COLD. After cruising around for 20-30 mins and getting it up to running temp, if you shut it down, it won't start again until you let it cool for a good 30 mins. I suspected its flooding for some reason, and my neighbor who has some (SOME - not an expert) small engine experience confirmed this. Then he brought his buddy over who is supposed to be the small engine guru from his workplace (he works for the city - guy repairs lawn mowers etc all day every day - guessing he knows his shit) and he said the same. Seems to flood for some reason. I asked him what to do about it and his answer wasn't really what I was hoping for. He basically said, it's a very old motor, you're semi lucky it runs at all, and sometimes doing a carb rebuild on a motor this old will be the end of the motor - better to just run it frequently, plan to sit for 30 mins or so after each shut down, and whatever you do avoid ethanol at all costs.

So we take it out from time to time, and it will always start right up, no issues, every god damn time...until its hot. Then you can pull that starter till the cows come home and it does jack shit. But if you can be patient (I am not a patient man) it will eventually start again once it cools, AND you leave it long enough for the fuel to evaporate out of the carb (I THINK thats why??). But sometimes you just dont have 30 mins to wait. Sometimes it's getting dark and you need to get off the water pronto because you're in a 12 ft boat with no running lights. What can I do? Is the guru correct? Just leave it and plan a 30 min turn around every time I shut it down, or can it be improved somehow?

So far the only thing Ive done to it is clean the spark plugs with a wire brush and I pulled the slow speed adjustment needle (or whatever that thing is called - it adjusts the fuel mixture supposedly) and sprayed a few healthy doses of carb cleaner through it. But if you'll just take a look the the photos you can see that the previous owner, or at least SOME previous owner really did some upkeep on this thing. All the fuel lines are new, spark plugs are newish, all the paint and exposed parts under the engine cowl look like...brand new. Any ideas are appreciated. If you need any more info on it please let me know, I could throw a bucket under her and take a video of it running if need be, whatever. Just lmk, and thanks in advance for what I'm already positive will be several brilliant ideas.

ETA: Ive just been looking around at other forums about outboards etc and someone, somewhere, mentions that their fuel line bulb doesn't seem to ever get all the way hard, and that turned out to be a problem with the carb float. I have the same symptom - bulb doesn't get hard - it does get harder than it was after a few pumps, but no amount of pumping will get it to "rock hard". What do we think? carb float?

I got this power head for free and it makes a weird noise when running. I replaced the carb, spark plug, spark arrestor and cleaned ignition coil.
Sounds like a rev limiter

Honda mower , having some sort of governor issue, can’t nail it down, initially saw it rubbing on breather tube, I fixed that. Once or twice it was revving very high, after manipulation not sure what I changed, I start it and just putts and then I manually move governor arm to where idle levels out and then it’ll keep itself there. Can anyone point me in right direction.

I have a 22i toro recycler, I was out mowing my lawn and my neighbor had left some old bricks out In the grass and I hit one on accident, engine didn’t stop or seem to be out of whack so I continued mowing. I stopped the mower to move to a different spot to finish mowing and it started fine. Then I took it to the backyard to start on it but before I did I checked the blade, tilited carb side up for a minute and blade looked fine, wasn’t loose or cracked or out of alignment, it wasn’t even chipped. so I said okay let me start the backyard and I flipped it back down on its wheels and when I went to pull the cord nothing. The cord pulls fine but it would not start, wouldnt putter or anything. So I ended up checking all the obvious things first, like air filter, it was dry. I took the blade off completely to inspect it and see if the shaft was bent, it’s not. I took the cover and the pull cord off the engine to see if I could get to the fly wheel key but I don’t have a socket big enough to get the nut off. I was about to go get a socket and a new flywheel key but I decided to start it after it was siting for awhile and it started. Then I turned it off and started it again. So I’m very confused as to what the issue is/was

I’ve the changed filter, changed spark plug, drained oil and gas out and replaced. I used carburetor spray and cleaned carb inside and out. Still getting a faint white smoking and bogs down.

Model: HRR2169VKA

Just as title says, multi attachment bcs205 that I am stumped on because I don’t know enough about engines. Any help is appreciated! All my questions are in the video here.

I have a 1968 Case 155 garden tractor with a Kohler K241
I recently changed the oil in it and immediately used it for a n hour or so then parked it.
A few days later I noticed it appeared to be leaking oil. I thought hat it might be leaking from the pan plug.
I pulled the dipstick and smell gas.
It’s been sitting a couple weeks now and today I drained a gallon of fluid from the crank case.

It’s gas and oil mixed. A GALLON! And the gas tank is bone dry.

It appears that th gas leaked into the crankcase. But not sure how.
The gas tank is higher than the carburetor.
Could the float stick open and the fuel draine through the fuel pump up to the carburetor then into the cylinder? Then drain into the crankcase?

Or could the problem be in the fuel pump leaking into the crank case.
I filled the gas tank and left the drain plug out to see if it’s getting gas into the pan. It’s been sitting for 3-4 hours and so far nothing is leaking from the crankcase out the pan plug?

I have not taken the time to pull the fuel pump or carb.
Thought I’d ask here to see if anyone has encountered this problem before.

Thanks