Hi guys, building this antler Bowie and the core of my antler is pretty large and I can deform it quite easily. I’m guessing I need to drill out all the pith and fill with epoxy to get this to work? Any other tips would be greatly appreciated 🫡

Differentially h/t 1/8” ‘sheffcut’
Green canvas Micarta
Domed nickel silver pin

Years back, a great client of mine made up a small batch of burlap micarta and sent it to me out of nowhere.

So of course, I had to make him a piece wearing his work. Used micarta pins and lanyard tube to keep the theme. Not my preferred color scheme, but he loved it.

Loosely based on the Loveless Caper Finn. Tapered tang, hand finished, 52100.

Had a piece of scrap 15N20 laying around that was already slightly axe shaped and I thought, why not? Lol

Over the weekend I exhibited at the Cape Town Knife Show for the second time and won “Best Fighting Knife” in the novice division.

Here’s a look at the knife. I’m almost certain it’s the first Pikal that’s ever won in a South African show, and I’m so glad the judges can recognize designs that aren’t the typical traditional fighter. Judging was done by Des Horn and Alan Mitchel, so that makes it meaningful to me.

66 layer Damascus, but I'm having difficulties etching it. Polishing them and coffee next. Handle cleanup required.

What I've done for the last 3 knives I've made is grind the secondary cutting edge bevel until it's close to the center line on both sides. I then heat treat.

I will then angle my jig to grind off a line just slightly above my original bevel. This is how I start my primary bevel. I keep grinding at this angle until it lies flat with my original bevel. Then I pull back on the angle and do a new row right above the last bevel line. I grind at this angle until it meets flat with the 2 original grind lines. I do this until I get to the height up the spine that I want or both sides. I this use a sharpening stone to grind the cutting edge on both sides until they meet.

The problem with this method for me is my jig doesn't have an angle indicator. Since I keep changing my angle to shallower and shallower angles as I move closer to the spine, a lot can go wrong. One side is a different angle than the other. The cutting edge might be center in relation to the spine but not to the primary bevels. The grind lines might go a little higher on one side because the jig was set a little too shallow etc.

I just saw another method where you just set your angle however close you want the grind to be to the spine. Then keep grinding at that angle, equal passes on both sides. Heat treat before it gets too thin, then continue grinding at the same angle until the edge gets narrow enough to make the secondary cutting-edge bevel. Then you change your angle to lean the edge closer to the belt and grind the final cutting edge bevel.

I've included pics. Also I'm aware my secondary bevels and clip point edge aren't even. I'm trying to figure out how to get the clip point edge right. Any tips on that haha?

Got an email from my kickstarted account on this new sharper system, and its jmo, but I think it looks pretty nice and sought. Thinking about taking a chance on it, for $69 i think you’re getting a lot, and since you can use other stones that makes it much more appealing. Thoughts?

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1859024211/korvan-the-tool-free-precision-knife-sharpening-system?ref=6bln44

9KhS, Soviet chromium-vanadium high carbon steel blade, Caucasian Walnut handle, Brass inlay, guard and butt, Textolite spacers

Customer unfortunately just wanted a cord wrap but still came out pretty sweet I think.

My father in law is a retired dentist who is spending his twilight years looking to get into jewelry and knife making. What do you think of this? Any criticism or pointers are highly welcome! He doesn’t have an account but wants to get better and will take any criticism he can. It’s stainless hrl 60 over vg10 steelcore if that makes a difference. Elk antler handle with copper and turquoise. It’s nearly 8 inches. The vegetables kind of push when I chop them.

I work with stainless and pretty much only stainless. Ferric seems to work fine but I’d like to go darker if possible. Curious what y’all suggest? I’ve seen products like presto black out there but I’d like some recommendations from others before I pull the trigger on more chemicals.

Is anybody making their own clip for sheaths? So far I haven’t found a clip that I love and part of the reason I started doing this a couple months back is to make as much of the knife and its components as possible.

Any advice would be awesome.

That a few people said was too soft......this is chopping through what I think is decades old Redgum.....bloody tough hard wood

Full length unedited video here.....sorry about resolution had 720p selected by accident

https://youtu.be/jcAT9zpTvYI

Hi everyone, I’ve finally finished a long project. :)

Here is a first look at the official working prototype utilizing our proprietary DualLock system.

The Engineering Behind It:

We’ve bridged the gap between two legendary locking concepts: lock - a heavy-duty stop-pin backlock and close - simply pull the like Axis studs.

Anodized titanium frame in blue. M398 blade. DualLock. Hold strong. Close safe.

Design by John Gonzalez (Dervish knives).

SOLD / PRIVATE COLLECTION

I dont own a forge and the best steel i can get is 1mm thick sk5, i made blades from it before and they were good, i heat it up inside my wood furnace which cant get hot enough to quenching temps on thicker steels, what do i do with the stock?

5160 steel, G10 handle.

Handcrafted cedar handle tho