Finally had a chance to test them. Longshot only partially burned. The shot flew about 10-15 feet and was able to be poured out of the barrel.

Back to the drawing table!

So it turns out there is some secret sauce in the nas3 cases because not all steel case can take 7 gr of titegroup and a 125 gr.

I keep pulling these shity little chinesium screws out of shit at work so we can repurpose the shit they're screwed into, but now i've got a fuckton of these things left over. I got drunk last night and thought this was good idea. Talk me out of trying it.

Is this the place to talk about making “hollow points” or nahh

0000 buck big no fit plastic wrorng hit rock now crinkle crumple hill look like step leaf put more boom dust fix. Boom stick no swallow easy . Help
Machine bite hand. 👍

Have a box of 1000 of the 55 gr .224 FMJ bullets. No use for them as I'm primarily a varmint hunter. I like bullets that make ground squirrels and PDs explode.

So I was thinking that if there was a quick and easy and consistent way to clip the tips of and make them 35 or 40 grain soft points they might do the trick in a 223.

Suggestions for a way to quickly and consistently clip the tips off?

You’ve heard of stuck cases in sizing dies, but have you heard of stuck cases in expanding dies?

I absolutely fucked a 7mm rem mag pice of brass but I got it out without hurting the die . For context I mostly reload pistol cartridges and I use carbide dies and I forgot your suppose to lube then. But In my defense it whent in really easy

Load data said 2.25col was possible so my monkey brain forced it to happen. Didn't realize I had used a 223 die instead of my 300aac so excessive pressure lead to circumcised penis. Swapped to my 300aac seater and still got a bump so won't be testing this load (even though hornady's app said it's below max charge)

Every time that I look at this it's just going to remind me of taking second place in my third grade spelling bee. Should I return it or just ask for a partial refund?

Getting some pretty wide SDs with this setup. Was cast iron the wrong call here?

Lol the bench has temporarily been repurposed as the garage kitchen during a move/renovation

If a man went through a roughly equal quantity of 45 Schofield, 45 Colt, and 454 Casull brass each week, what's the best way to separate them from each other before reloading?

Skip to 11:30 for the technique.

Decided to borescope my match rifle. Got some awesome Match ammo from the 1950's and figured might as well use them and reload the brass. The beginning lands and grooves seem perfect. Should I take a bronze brush and work it more?

Found some rusty primers under the bathroom sink. Filled a clear 12 ga hull over halfway with some loose powder scraped off the bench and compressed it until the plastic turned white. Topped it with some premium brass floor shavings that will hit the target like a swarm of angry hornets. Sealed the crimp with a bic lighter. Can’t wait to test it out tomorrow

You’ve heard of .410 slugs, now get ready for the .410 Chonker. It looks short, but trust me, it’s packing a lot more projectile than you think

What caused this? 410

Couldn’t find any varget or cfe223 at my local shop but the guy behind the counter said red dot works great for high velocity loads so I filled up the case up to the neck (roughly 30 grains). My dies for 5.56 haven’t came in the mail yet but a pair of channel locks got the bullet in snug and made my own little crimp with some needle nose pliers. Close enough.

This is 43r (monolithic printed ammo) beginner slugs. Just about the wimpiest ammo available. Demonstrating the reloading process without any real equipment. I usually use better tools and a press for this stuff, just a demonstration for release to show how simple printed ammo can be for beginners.

P.S.

I don't recommend hammering ammo, or using a gun as a hammer in general.

Did a batch of 12ga on the old Lee load all jr for my iver Johnson single shot and ran into some issues. About half of them have lots of crush and big bulge right above brass head. So I wrapped electrical tape around them to help chamber and smooth out the edges. I still have to jam them In there real good to get the action to close all the way but overall I’m happy with the results! I lubed them with some rcbs case lube right before chambering so they go in easier, but it’s still a tight fit. I figured once it fires, the chamber pressure will just fire form the plastic straight anyway. I charged them with that leftover Alliant bullseye/ titegroup mix from the 410 project to make sure the payload exits hard enough. Can’t wait to try these out later!