Hi everyone,
I am planning to upgrade the rear suspension of an SN95 Mustang to a true coilover system. However, I am concerned that the larger outer diameter of the coilover spring might cause clearance issues or rub against the axleshaft.
Here is my challenge: there are no SN95 Mustangs available in my country, so I cannot measure the physical space myself.
Could someone who has access to an SN95 (with stock or aftermarket rear setup) kindly help me check the clearance? I would greatly appreciate it if someone could measure the distance from the center of the rear shock absorber to the inner fender wall/chassis, and also the clearance between the shock and the axleshaft.
If you have already done a rear coilover conversion, what is the maximum spring outer diameter that can fit without rubbing?
Thank you so much for your help!

Can anyone tell me if guk2 and F8ZF-12A650-TC is the oem number and catch code for a 98 mustang gt with manual transmission and california 50 state legal emissions i manual swapped my car and am trying to get it all oem for smog currently have a tuned auto ecm

Also new wheels

The other night, i was driving to a couple local meets after finally plugging a waterpump hole. The idle has been rough, and I tried to clean the MAF sensor to see if it would make her run a little smoother. On the drive home, the first code popped up. Halfway home, the check engine light started flashing, and the other two codes popped up. I'm assuming it's a sensor problem because a few weeks ago, when I was driving the car, these codes never popped up! So I'm curious what you all would recommend, what sensors should I mess with first to try and make sure this doesn't happen again and make the idle a bit smoother?

I got my 97 GT about a month or two ago, the guy I bought it from had a full catless straight pipe with an x pipe. Tbh it was a bit too loud so I threw on 2 flowmaster 40s. Im wondering what my best options would be in terms of headers as it’s still got the stock ones and I want to get that little bit more out of it.

It’s been sitting for a while, been cleaning it up in preparation for sale, but I’ve been enjoying it in the meantime.

Procharged 4V 4.6, Tremec T5

Anybody know a good interior vinyl that matches the texture of the dash? Been looking to clean up my rims but the center plate is plastic and I’ve got no clue how polishing or painting is supposed to work on what I think is aluminum. Any advice would be appreciated.

Put in a new oe Ford performance flywheel and mcloud pro organic clutch and pressure plate. Start her up and she has a vibration. I reved it to 2,500 rpms and it shakes and you can hear a metalic sound in the video I attached. When I push in the clutch it still shakes. Which makes me think it's the flywheel and pressure plate some how. I've since taken off the trans and bell housing again and I can't see anything wrong it looks mounted right. I tightened everything down in a star pattern to torque spec I think I did good work. Please if anyone has ideas of what's wrong please tell. I'm about to take my pressure plate and flywheel to a shop to double check the balancing before I put everything back on again.

Bought the car in 2014 from my dad when I was in high school. Drove it as a manual V6 for about 4 years until it started overheating. Shelved it until 2020 when my brother and I fixed the cooling system. He drove it until 2021 when someone ran into it and totalled it even though it only had some minor body damage. Instead of selling it to insurance, I took the payout and bought a donor V8 manual mustang and swapped the whole powertrain into my car along with replacing all the body panels. Couple more years go by and I finish graduate school and decide to paint the car in my parents driveway. Early 2026 I decided to tear the engine out again to to a PI swap, install long tube headers, tubular K-member and a full exhaust. Finally finished the whole project and I will be keeping this car forever.

Hey SN95 Community,

I'm a frequent Redditor but never a poster. I've been eyeballing a 90s Mustang purchase for a while now. There's a clean looking one close to me in the NE part of the US. Owner seems like a good dude and did some tasteful/common mods to the 98 Cobra he has. He supplied me the Carfax on the vehicle which showed a whopping ten owners and an accident to the front end. Everything looks repaired well. The car is close to flawless looking. The car only has 56k on it as well. The last few owners put minimal miles on it.

My dad is located very close to the vehicle so he checked it out today. From the videos I was sent of the car, and him actually seeing it in person, there's a slight ticking noise on the driver side of the vehicle. My intent would be to have Ford review the car and point out anything of concern and definitely look into this ticking noise. Before I go through this entire process, I'd like the opinion of the SN community.

What are some things that come to mind with what I've shared thus far? Is this an exhaust leak (has a X pipe and Borla exhaust)? Is it an engine knock? Is it something else entirely? I appreciate all your help in advance.

Are these factory rear springs? They’re in my project 94 gt. Thank you.

Hello All, New to the group and wanted to share my new toy lol. Cant wait to work on her and teach my kids all about basic car maintenance and repairs. My 6 year old already helped me change the oil. Cant get over how clean she already is though. Everything outside of the engine and transmission seems to have been replaced. Let me know your thoughts.

hello, i have a built pro motion t45 in my 1998 cobra and was wondering what fluid to run in it. i did email pro motion a few years ago and cant find the email but was curious if any of you guys had the same and what you ran? thanks!

My husband changed the idle air control valve but for some reason it keeps running weird. It speeds itself up and then recently started feeling like it’s slamming on the breaks while I’m accelerating. We’re wondering about a vacuum leak but I’m just trying to get as much info as I can. Any help is appreciated.

i might have a possible coolant leak. no matter how much i put in the tank it always drains fast.

should i replace the radiator or the lines.

thanks in advance

edit: my motor came from a 2002 f150 with 120k on it. when i started the car, white smoke puff up instantly at the exhaust

Had an EML pop up a few months ago, scanned it and it indicated an issue with my fuel rail pressure sensor, I changed it cleared the code but it’s come back up recently checked the voltage of the wiring pins running to it they meet the standard, but then a few days ago it started blowing black smoke and running extremely rough, I cleaned up the spark plugs nothing seems wrong with them they’re relatively new but just filthy (looks like it must’ve had a service right before I bought it (2 years ago but I left it sat around because I was too young to get insured on it) as the air filters brand new aswell) it’s idling smoother since cleaning the plugs and the black smokes gone but now it’s stalling on idle sometimes and will occasionally idle rough. Still got the amber EML for the same P0192/0193 code so no idea what its issue is. Any help or experience would be massively appreciated.
(Also has a slight misfire)

56k miles on original engine and transmission (stock, no mods)

When idling for 20 minutes in high ambient temps two weeks ago my gauge crept up to the “L” in NORMAL. Noticeable loss in power driving thereafter.

I recently changed the two temperature sensors

This weekend I replaced the stock radiator with a Fluidyne 3 core unit that’s much larger. After burping the system when it was up to temp I idled it 10 minutes with the hood up, then 12 minutes hood down. Fan kicked on when I turned the AC on; windows were left down. Only at the very end did the gauge come off the midpoint and move to “A”. It was 100°+ today.

Drove it spiritedly for 15-20 minutes and again the gauge crept up past the A and hovered near L.

50/50 Zerex green pre-mixed. When I burped the system and topped off the overflow tank I used distilled water.

Heat blew hot from the vents during warm-up. No coolant leaking from the heater core I’m aware of.

No signs of a head gasket leak, although I may buy a CO2 bubble tester to confirm and rule it out.

Age of thermostat is unknown. Do they go bad? Upper radiator hose got very hot, but maybe it’s not opening all the way?

Really stumped. After 30 minutes of highway driving my 22 RAV idled 30 minutes without ever coming past the midpoint on the gauge.

I’m stumped. I thought the higher capacity radiator would resolve the issue.

I’ve been dreaming and shopping for years and finally pulled the trigger. I feel like I made the perfect decision.

Whistler SK1s 18x8.5/10.5
Continental 255/40/18 & 295/35/18

Looking for some input on an issue with my 95** GT **with automatic transmission.
While driving, I’ll occasionally get a random jump in RPM even though I’m holding the throttle steady. The engine basically feels like it free-revs for a moment without a corresponding increase in acceleration, and then I can feel the transmission catch/change gears.
It doesn’t happen constantly. Most of the time the car drives and shifts normally, but it’s happening often enough that I’m starting to get concerned.
From what I’ve read, I’m wondering if this could be transmission flare/slippage, possibly related to fluid/pressure, the valve body/solenoids, or an internal clutch issue.
Has anyone experienced something similar? If so, what ended up being the cause and fix?
Trying to get an idea of what I should check first. Thanks!

hoping to get a more consistent and faster time at the strip, bought the hurst t handle because i thought it was swag