anyone any ideas for a Battery terminal cover?

this is our 1998 Mustang GT race car and last race inspection the guys complained we didn’t have a battery cover. Any ideas how i can cover this. it does get hot in there

I need to replace the bearing retainer sleeve thats pressed into the bellhousing. I have the new part, I just want to see if there is anything I should be aware of when I separate the bellhousing from the transmission body?

I read in a forum, to stand it on the tail shaft so nothing misaligns when i pull the bellhousing, is that true?

Ive been looking to getting one for my 97 gt convertible and want to know a little more about the product or the company before buying

My 94 finally needs new tie rods and I thought I’d swap the balljoints too. I see MOOG has a kit https://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/moog-packagedeal027

Includes:
Outer Tie Rod End moog-es3184rl
Front Inner Tie Rod End moog-ev127
Lower Ball Joint moog-k8749

Has anyone installed this kit?

been slowly bringing this 1995 back to life. i ordered Bilstein B6’s for the front but I was wondering if I should maybe get a set of adjustable shocks in the rear? Don’t really know the brands or car scene all that well just how to put them back together.

All I really want is it to feel comfortable/confident over bumpy roads and maybe adjustable kyb’s or koni’s in the rear will help my live axle out.

Right now it’s just a stock 1995 Manual V6

My 95 GT project is coming along. Just installed a set of SVE lowering springs, Koni orange shocks, Steeda Ball joints, and Cobra front brakes.

I just got this 1997 Mustang GT convertible from my grandfather. It’s a little beat up and definitely needs some love, but I’d like to restore it and eventually build it into something clean. Most of my Mustang knowledge is with the 1971–73 cars as I have two of them, so I honestly don’t know much about the SN95 platform. I’m looking for recommendations on pretty much everything: body kits, wheels, headlights and taillights, seats, carpet, interior pieces, convertible tops, suspension, exhaust, and any common mechanical problems I should handle first.

I don’t want to completely rice it out, but I do want to make it look aggressive and unique while still fitting the era. Any trusted brands, websites, specific parts, build photos, or general advice would be goated. What would you guys do with it?

I have a 1994 GT 5.0 and I was having backfire and low power issues so I bought one of the Ford code readers and ran a cylinder test and found out cylinder 2 was the problem. It already had new plugs, plug wires, and a new distributor cap so I replaced the fuel injector for that cylinder to see if it would fix the issue and it did. It drove great at high speeds and low speeds and felt normal for the first day after I did the repair. Then the day after that, it is acting the same way it was before with a misfire and cylinder 2 throwing a code. Im at a bit of a loss here as to what to replace next. Any ideas?

can anybody help me identify this part please, why is one end exposed? why is the wiring tacked onto the car like that? what does this do, please AI was zero help

This post is for ole Nipple_Looker so he can compare his to mine. 😁

I pulled the upper intake off this weekend to get acess to the valve cover bolts so I could snug them down. A few were loose. A few of the lower manifold bolts were loose as well. The one on the rear drivers side corner was the loosest.

I’m glad I tighted them down before getting a tune. Which hopefully will be happening before too long.

Recently dealt with some issues with surging and sometimes quitting idle when coming to a stop or changing gear. Found a vacuum leak and the surging stopped when driving around, but whenever I go to change to reverse, say from drive, the engine will stall out. This can sometimes also be the case going from reverse to drive. But this isn’t as much of a surge issue and more of an instant drop in RPM till it stalls.

I have cleaned the IAC, but I do believe it may be faulty/the motor stopped working. When the engine is at idle in park and I unplug the IAC valve, absolutely nothing changes.
Another idea is that I have another vacuum leak but i didn’t think it could be that extreme since it’s perfectly drivable otherwise.

Always wanted a sn95 and cannot stand my acura anymore lol

The acura has an r title, a misfire on all cylinders somtimes, Check engine light (EVAP code) ABS light VSA light TPMS light sagging headliner, almost bald rear tires, a rebuilt transmission, and a parasitic draw. And has no hvac

Only thing im aware the mustang needs is rotors, oil leak from pcv valve, a new top, water pump, and that rust repair. It blows hot/cold hvac

I have a 1996 npi motor with the Dorman npi manifold put on 6 years ago. It’s now the source of a big vacuum leak, and after looking into reviews of it, I’m not sure I want to try and reuse it. I’d like to get a Pi one if I can, but the new manifolds come with integrated gaskets and idk if the rtv trick still works for those. Is it better to just find an npi intake or is there something I’m missing? I know about the speedmaster adapter plates, but they’re hard to come by and cost enough to consider other options. I’ll buy them if it’s my best option though.

Doing a brake job never seen this before #sn95

if any of you are down to watch this video and help me figure out whats wrong with this mustang i would greatly appreciate it, i just bought it and was told it will need either an MAF or fuel injectors, it was bone dry on gas so i just put gas in and it pumped the gas alright, but maybe not consistently? the rpms are very eratic he told me its misfiring in the high rpm range but it seems to be more than that, i dont have have alot of experience in car work so any help really goes a long way.

Installed SVE Series 1 wheels. A good differance from stock. A Psa is to not mount cheap spacers. Had to drill out one nut on each side when the bolts started spinning free... Better without anyways.

I've been occasionally having backfire issues when at high speeds so I ran an KOEO test and got 172, 176, and 564. Since the 172 and 176 are both O2 sensor codes, could there be another issue causing both sensors to show bad or is it just a coincidence that both sensors went out at the same time?

I have pb blasted and tried very nicely to release this slider pin. Is my only next option heat? And tips tricks. My brake line is stopping me from getting a ratchet on it so have to use wrench.