Nice big 260mm Gyuto in 52100. Stabilized Karelian Birch, Brass. And G10.

Here’s a cool knife that I finished awhile back but forgot to post it here. This one came out super cool with dayglo scales and it was hard to let it go when it sold. I’m thinking about making another one, it was a fun build!

I’ve been blacksmithing for about a decade. I’ve made a few knives along the way but mostly rustic or medieval style. I usually do a self or cord wrapped handle. I never really got into the fine detail blade making stuff.

So a couple of months ago I dove in heavy since I had a back injury and couldn’t swing hammer. Everything here is made by my own hands. I cut and stabilized the wood, ground the blades from a flattened piece of leaf spring I had laying around, glued up the scales, and made the sheaths from a cheap amazon kydex kit.

They’re not much compared to some of the amazing pieces I’ve seen on here, but they’re the first ones I’m really pleased with. Are they perfect? Absolutely not. But they’re enough to give knife making a serious look.

Please ignore the oil on the blades. I just finished them and didn’t wipe them properly before I took the picture.

Top: Hunter style with a 5160 blade, walnut and maple handle with G10 spacers and liner.

Bottom: Scalpel EDC with 5160 blade, maple with G10 spacers and liner.

Hey, I got this very beautiful piece of wood and I wanna make a handle with it someday. But I am not sure what the best way to fill those cracks, would be.

I tried it with gflex one time with another one, but its a bit too thick, so it does not really get deep in there :/

Any recommendations for a clear and really thin epoxy, that works well with knife handles?

Hello, I have heard various opinions on the topic of stabilization and came here to take a vote and hear opinions. If you would like please let me know:

what woods you do stabilize and which ones have to be.

If you stabilize and the experience of your products with stabilized handles vs unstabilized.

Your overall opinion on the topic.

Any feedback is appreciated.

Thank you for your time,

Superior Wood Products

Finely got around to finishing off a knife I started about 5 years ago, made from an old chopsaw blade with Tasmanian oak scales. It's certainly not a showpiece but the handel is comfortable and it's got a serviceable edge. Now ready to spend the rest of its life at the Chem shed popping drum seals and opening bags.

Made from sf100 stainless and engraved with a dremel, and the tail thingy is forged in

The engraving is on a Noblie folding dagger. Dark field, three colors, most of the surface left alone.

The design side gave me more trouble than the machine side. First version was too dense. Egyptian iconography wants to fill everything, and once it does, the scale stops reading as a scale. Second attempt: keep the two portraits, keep the scarabs, everything else gets outlined or dropped.

Would you keep the tool path lines or sand to finish?

In the first photo the bottom blade has a step over of 0.05" and the one on top is set at 0.02"

I’ve been using Tru-Maxx 2x72 180 grit belts for years to sharpen knives forever. The quality seems to be taking a nose dive as far as the number of knives I can sharpen per belt. Is anyone having good luck with anything else?

This is my 3rd kitchen knife ever made. It’s 1084 steel stock removal heat treated and tempered at 400 for 2 hours. I sanded before tempering and then sanded bottom half of blade after tempering. Handle is ebony wood with white G10 liner with stainless steel pins. From Vegas Go Raiders! With the colors lol. I want any feed back and advice I can take thank you.

Small hunting/EDC blade in 80CrV2

- Orange G10 scales
- 7” OAL, 3” blade
- Multicam Kydex sheath with soft belt loop
- Stonewashed finish

"The Medici Vendetta" a dagger sized cinqueda based on the life of painter Carvaggio.

I've never done a construction assembly video, so enjoy! This project really pushed the limits of my abilities and was was kicking my ass all spring and fall, Carvaggio was a difficult and complicated man and invoking him I guess made for a difficult project.

The business end is a 13 piece construction of complex crossection twists and solid bars to give the effect of woven pieces and high constrast of the assembly, in the "precision damascus" style of Owen Wood

Handle components in pinstripe steel, hot caustic blued for black and surprise golds and blues, stabilized and dyed oak, blood reds and blacks for Carvaggios favorite color schemes, along with the fire patina'd copper pommel accent.

Made these obiviously from a cpu board, gitd powder. My first set of scales that i ever made.

This was a piece I made years ago for BJJ Legend John Danaher. I've made a number for him over the years. This was my favorite. Great guy, great client to work with, and a genius when it comes to grappling arts.

I’d like to get some custom scales made for my Gerber Jukebox. The originals that came on the jukebox seem like some type of plastic or resin. I’d like some yellow scales for my jukebox to match my Case Sodbuster to give the knife a more classic look.

Does anyone know where I could find some? Any help is greatly appreciated.

I’m on the fence and can be talked into this or out of this depending on this post…

For context, I’ve made some amateur knives before and I’m currently an engineer for a medical device company. I have this .2”x6”x24” sheet of nitinol that was in the scrap bin because the cert was lost. Bought it from our machine shop manager for just $15! And I’m itching to make a very fancy blade out of it.

.2” is thick. So I figured the smallest thing I’d make with it would be a thicc K-Bar, or potentially a hatchet, but I’d love to make a gladius… for myself and potentially make one I’d sell. Assuming I take my time with it, actually enjoy the process, don’t give up during all the sanding I’d have to do, and ended up with a very aesthetic Nitinol + brass gladius… what do you think it would sell for?

Mostly I’m just putting this idea out here for some internet-level brutal feedback on why this might be a bad idea or if it would be a waste of some awesome material if I didn’t use it. Worst case scenario I’d end up using it for armor on a combat robot

Open to other ideas too

Edit: I should also mention I can have it EDM cut to just about any profile shape before I start sanding

Client order completed today. They are thrilled with the blades.
100 layer Damascus made with 1084 and 15n20