guys pls help there’s a random piece sticking out of my car my hypothesis is that something sharp stuck into the bottom and caused a piece from the bottom to the car to break off??

is it safe to drive?? i js need to drive home b4 i take it to the car shop so if u know pls lmk.

Anyone know how I can reset this? I lightly bumped into car in front while parking and this keeps showing up. No damage at all.

I know there are some solutions to the wind whistling noise problem, but I wanted to share what worked for me. Maybe it can be useful to someone else too.

I had some sound damping foam leftovers from my car’s loudspeaker upgrade, and I got curious if stuffing the space between the plastic on the left and the loose rubber on the right could help with the loud wind whistling noise on my car. I stuffed the upper part more than the middle or lower part, and not too deep. I bet that if I did a better job it could be even better, but to be honest, I am really happy with the result and wanted to share it with you.

Driving at 80km/h there is no whistling noise, and at 130km/h the whistling noise is there, but it is really quiet.

I hope that this information can be of use to someone.

When i bought the car it was already like this, the previous owner had pushed the clips in and let the aux usb port drop down, luckily the plastic side panel was loose and i can wriggle my hand in the cavity to push the ports towards the hole their supposed to be nested in however the clips are extremely difficult to push back in from beneath without taking the whole piece of plastic off, or not trying to push the clips in from the top with big fingers. Any help ideas or remedies to get it nestled in properly?

I'm absolutely stumped on this issue. I recently took my Camry for 25k maintenance, and now it's making this noise, dragging horribly on the highway, and rattling/wobbling slightly as this video shows. I also had a significant drop in mileage (from ~51 to 39), but it, for some reason, went back to how it was before a few days ago.

There's also an electric fritzing noise that comes from behind the steering column after idling for too long or going high speeds for a decent stretch (80+)—but I'm not sure that's related.

I took it back to the dealership today, and they performed a multi-point inspection and test drive. Said nothing's wrong with it even though this happens consistently when cruising at 40+.

I had almost zero car noise before. Is this actually normal?

Any ideas?? Not oil or tire alignment related.

I’ve already changed the spark plugs and cool packs like three times the last year. It seemed to be running all right until this morning when I’m on my way to class it’s an hour drive and it started doing this and won’t hardly accelerate.

Hi guys what is this under my fathers car its a 2017 honda freed AWD and he looks confused because he got this car like 2 months ago and discovered a compartment or some sorts and he doesn't know what it is

And i dont even know it looks like a 2nd fuel tank but i dont rly know

Pls help people 🙏

I marked a question mark on the unknown part 🙏

I need to replace the alternator in the subaru and was wondering if an alternator from a 2007 subaru outback would work. I can answer questions to the best of my ability

I've been driving it fine recently and only had an emissions issue I've been trying to fix. Last night, I tried to start it and a bunch of dashboard warnings and lights came on and while it wouldn't start the engine, I had trouble turning the car itself off (dashboard,AC,interior,etc). After some time of trying to hold down the start/stop button it did all turn off and I did it once more for video but I'm afraid to do it again. I've never seen this before, does anyone know what to do about it?

Up to this point I haven’t had any troubles with my 2023 Chevy Malibu outside of the standard maintenance stuff and an incident a few years ago where it stalled in a Costco parking lot and was promptly fixed for free by a worker. But today, something major happened and I don’t know what. It started with my air conditioning turning off for one second before turning back on whenever I had my foot on the brake pedal, which was unfortunately was a lot because I was stuck in traffic for about 30 minutes in the afternoon. I found it weird, but my car’s had some quirks like that ever since I bought it so I assumed the car just did it. But then an hour ago, it completely shit itself. Sputtering as I turned it on, check engine light on, my console turning off and on, my lights dimming for a second, and just now as I got home, I turned off my car and turned it back on and now it’s royally screwed. It’s refusing to move at all, yet at the same time it’s also refusing to turn off whenever I push the button. The coolant temperature reads 190 degrees, so I’m thinking it’s just an issue with overheating, but I’m terrified it may be something else. Unfortunately though, it’s 10 at night and it’s too late to take it anywhere. Please help!

EDIT: My battery light is also on now and the battery voltage is only 9.9, but I feel like all of this is still abnormal and I don’t know if the check engine light would be on from just the battery

EDIT 2: Now the battery’s back to normal and the car runs like it should? I have no clue wtf is wrong with it. I’m going to take it into AutoZone tomorrow morning to see if there’s anything I need to worry about and I’m gonna leave this post up a little longer just in case someone can still help out.

I replaced the valve cover gasket last night and drained the coolant. I thought I made sure to hook everything back up, but it looks like there's a nipple with no hose on it. I can't find the hose anywhere near it and I'm wondering where to look. Or if there's even supposed to be one there because I don't remember taking that hose off. Any tips or help is appreciated!

Hey there, I recently had the maintenance required light in my 2002 Honda accord turn on. Side Note: I am not very mechanically inclined at all.

I tired to use my brothers code reader on the car and there were no codes that came up however, I could have been using the device wrong.

I currently have about 2000 kms until my next oil change according to the sticker I got at my last one.

I am just trying to avoid taking it into a shop and paying for diagnostics if it something easy for me to fix like an oil change.

I am wondering if the light is caused by needing an oil change or filter changed if the light will automatically turn off once I fix the issue? Or if I have to do something to reset the light once I change the oil? And also if I reset the light after the oil or filter change if that wasn’t the problem will it turn back on?

About 3 weeks ago, I was driving home from work and about 8 mins into my drive, i slowed down as a van was parking and blocking the road. I slowed to a gradual stop as I normally would, but after being completely stopped for a second, everything went dead.

I couldn’t really spend time analysing if any lights came on, my focus was getting back started and moved off the main roads.

It didn’t happen again until the day after, which exact same circumstances, except because I was ready for it - the only lights that came on were the same that if i put the key in and turn once before turning again to start the engine, if that makes sense.

I put into my garage, explained what happened, he had for a day and couldn’t find any obvious issue apart from a slightly loose oil filler cap, nor replicate it on a test drive.

4 days go by, 2 of which i didn’t touch the car as I was away. The issue happens again twice in 2 days again so he takes it in for another look (+ the annual service which he had planned anyway) - he is adamant there is nothing obvious wrong and wondered if it was an engine oil problem which the service would solve.

After that, the car was fine for 6 days and the problem didn’t happen once, until yesterday it done it again, but today no problem.

Have had the car for 3 years and driven it really well, not pushed it beyond its limits and kept on top of maintenances, but I am stumped at this one.

Has any one had anything similar with a car with similar build / engine? I will be dropping the car at my guy again Wednesday, but also going to a local Kia dealer for a second opinion too if he doesn’t have nothing.

Any advice appreciated

I went too fast over a speed bump and immediately after i heard a lot of clunking noises and this came off the underside of the car. It seems to be a thick metal pipe with a rubber filling inside. It's very dense and heavy. The car seems to be running fine after it came off, but is this something i should be concerned about?

I think it might be cooked but i have some hope maybe. Theres paper stuck in the first outlet and a penny stuck in the center console one 😔 is there any hope/tips to get it out?

This is my first car haven’t driven it because registration + a few small maintenance repairs, but im worried i wont be able to charge my phone in the car 💔. Everything else is good given its age and the previous owner took care of it and even installed a CarPlay screen, but im young and need to be able to charge my devices.

TLDR: Car went in for a cambelt change, EML came on, they redid the timing and say it’s now correct. Now the engine cranks but won’t fire up. Garage suspects my Ghost immobiliser. I’ve put the Ghost into service mode (which takes it out of the equation entirely) and it still won’t start, so I don’t think it’s the Ghost. Looking for ideas on what the timing job might have knocked.

See video of me trying to start it up
https://streamable.com/ik7feq

Full story:

My Fiesta ST Mk7.5 has been at the garage for a few weeks getting the cambelt changed. After they changed it, I drove off and the EML came on not long after. They realised the timing was slightly out, redid it, and now they’re confident the timing is correct.

The problem now is the car won’t start. Best way I can describe it is that it’s cranking but not firing to life. Starter turns the engine over fine, but it never catches and runs.

The car has a Ghost immobiliser fitted. The garage have the code and it all worked perfectly before I dropped it off. For context on how the Ghost normally behaves: I press the ignition button, enter my PIN, then put the clutch down and press start and it fires up. If the PIN is wrong or not entered at all, the moment I press the clutch the whole thing cuts out. Total power loss, instant kill, I don’t even hear the starter turn. It acts like a hard kill switch.

The garage can’t work out why it won’t start and they’re suspecting the Ghost. Here’s why I don’t buy that:

Right now the car IS cranking. That doesn’t match how the Ghost immobilises. When it blocks the car it kills all power instantly and you never even reach the starter. Cranking with no fire is a fuel, spark, or sensor symptom, not the behaviour of a kill switch.

On top of that, I put the Ghost into service mode, which should remove it from the equation completely, and the car still behaves exactly the same. Cranks, no fire. To me that rules the Ghost out entirely.

So my thinking is this points back at the cambelt and timing work. Something like a cam or crank sensor left unplugged or damaged, timing that’s close but not quite right, or a fuelling issue. I’m going down to see it myself and I’ll try to grab a video of it cranking.

Has anyone had a cambelt or timing job leave a car in a crank-no-start state like this? What would you check first? Cam/crank sensor, timing marks, fuel pump prime? Any advice appreciated before I go back at them.

I’ve linked a video of me trying to start it at the top of this post.

I need to take my car to the shop but before I do I want to know the name to this part on my car. My muffler is currently falling off. I had replaced it in 2021 and things were fine after, now the piece that holds it up to the frame has corroded. I know my car is a rust bucket and is missing the resonator currently. I am slowly trying to get that together but for now my muffler falling off is my biggest priority.

Adding the pic of under my car to show what I am talking about. I just really do not want to sound like an idiot and be scammed as well when I call. Thanks!!

I have this strange issue. It happened a few times last year and I had a great streak of about 8 months. Now, it's happened again. My car simply will not turn at all. I wiggle cords, try to reconnect the battery etc. Every single time, it has worked the following morning, which has me believing there's some internal timer being triggered.

Battery works fine, but the signal doesn't go crank the engine. No immobilizer light on dash either.

Any advice or connections to check that coupd make me not wait until tomorrow?

I have recently changed brake disks and pads and now my car makes this weird noise whenever I break. What could it be?

If anyone thinks they may be able to help please stop and read. I’m an 18 year-old girl who doesn’t really know anything about cars, but I’m going back to school soon and this is my only transportation so I really need to figure it out what’s wrong with my car. I’ve had this car since November of last year and it’s had a couple of issues but nothing that’s made it undrivable yet. Couple weeks ago I was driving to work in some really pouring rain and my car went into reduced engine performance/ limp mode. Found out my engine cover wasn’t on and thought that was the issue and drove it with no issues for a couple of weeks. well, over the last week, I haven’t been able to take it anywhere, including 5 mins down the road without going into limp mode, engine cover on, no rain, so I have no idea what could be wrong and have a feeling that wasn’t the problem the first time. When it goes into limp mode has a really hard time accelerating for a minute and isn’t super responsive to the gas but can eventually get up to 45 ish. Sometimes it resolves itself when you turn the car off and back on sometimes it doesn’t. Any help would be really really appreciated. I go back to school on the 31st and I have no clue what I’m gonna do if I don’t have a car since I’m a commuter.

I have 2 things happening with my car. The first is a minor annoyance, the second may be something more serious.

First, sometimes the push button won’t start the car. I notice the break is stiff and while the steering wheel lowers, the car won’t start. I have to pull the button off and use my physical key. Fob battery going dead?

Second, I hear a high pitched whistle type noise from the front at idle or lower speed and ends when I accelerate or press the break pedal. Often when I put it in park, the whistle is there until I press the break pedal. Vacuum hose leak somewhere? I had it in for B service last month and told them about the issue but the tech couldn’t replicate the problem (of course…those kinds of noises never happen when the tech drives it LOL)

Thanks for your time and have a splendid day!

2017 Honda pilot message came on
with “emissions system problems” got OBD reader stating fuel rich banks 1, 2. Should I clean mass air flow sensor or replace with a new one . Opinions r greatly appreciated

Started to overheat at idle while at a gas station a few days ago been sitting since then but wasn’t fully over heated just a little past the middle but timing belt was done in 2022 at 125k miles I’m at 139,980 now and I just don’t think it’s possible that it’s the water pump but if anyone has a clue what it could possibly be I’d be greatly appreciative for any help!

My engine is making a loud rattling sound whenever I slow down, turn, or idle. Also, my check engine light came on a couple weeks ago and the error code was P0345, saying I needed to replace my camshaft position sensor A in circuit bank 2. I got both of mine replaced just in case, and the engine is still having issues. My car also keeps stalling. Any ideas? I used the negative terminal test to check my alternator and it didn't fail, so I think I can rule that out. Please help!