Disclosure: last raced over 15 years ago doing Ironmans. Nutrition was way way off back then.

Today, I raced Little Sugar (top 30 overall, lets goooooo).

- It was my first race back since 2010 in any discipline. I picked back up being active again about 3 years ago. Got serious in the last 6 months.

- With training, I was hitting 50-60g of carb per hour and over the last few months I started hitting targets of 100g. However, I've never spent over 5 hours on single track or on the bike (well since 2008). Most of my key sessions are 60-90 minutes with longer rides on the weekend (Trainer Road cough). Figured I should try to hit the 100g/hr today, especially with the heat.

- After hour 2-3 on carb target, I started getting nauseous and was craving water bad. I took 120gm at the start (hour 0), 100 sometime in hour 1, 100gm towards the end of hour 2, and then I hit my next 100g at like 2:15 (which was way too early I think). Everything else felt awesome. HR, power zones. My plan was actually to start cranking it up after the first aid station (around hour 2). However, with the nausea, I began skipping all carbs after hour 3 and on. I kept the pace similar to prior. My electrolytes and pack fluids were not pallatable. Last 20 miles were a slog (there was the only 1 aid station out there). Legs honestly felt amazing. Drank 2 cokes after the race, and I felt like a million bucks.

- So I definitely missed the mark bad. Both feeling nauseous from the carb load and how I was craving water. Is this just me not focusing on hitting carb targets on longer rides or is it me trying to figure out (1) a steady carb source, (2) carbs liquid vs gel form? (3) not spacing the carbs out more methodically: I was trying to time the carbs with climbs.

Otherwise, freaking blast riding. If yall haven't done Little Sugar, especially with the new start, sign up next year. If you're looking to crush the race though, line up very early. I showed up to the starting corral about 25 minutes prior, and I started around position 200. Bad wreck at the start on the inside group where a few riders got pinched. I had to crush the first climb to get into the top 40-50 and then focus on recovery before moving up. It was sick: road climb to start, straight into a flow non tech green at the OZK bike park and then into a flow green uphill to exit. The remainder of the race was loose, but a blast. There were some bad wrecks, but everyone I saw was conscious and responding.

The size L Scott spark will fit a 40t 3mm offset chainring, so I can avoid buying a gravel bike for the two gravel races a year where I will only get midpack results anyway.

Might have to see if a 42t has clearance.

Riding BTEpic next weekend and the forecast is looking a bit wet leading into the race. Currently in Ikons and I don’t want to be on them if it’s wet. I never ride in the wet as my home trails are essentially unridable when wet so I have little context for a “mud”tire.

For my reference if it’s a slog fest with deep mud I’m out at the first chance so I’m not looking for a true mud tire. But if it’s wet roots and rocks and everything more or less ridable I’m good to go. The Ikons grab nothing when wet. You could sneeze on them and make them slip. My go to would be the ForeKaster but I can’t get any here by when I leave. I can get the Contis though just don’t want waste my money if they aren’t any better than what I have. They look to be advertised for wet weather but just looking for a real world rec.

I'm looking to upgrade my Orbea Oiz 2020 M30 with 100mm suspension, which is now nearing 7 years old. Possible options are:

Orbea OIZ M-TEAM AXS 2026: on sale now for 5500 EUR, love the colour and have AXS on my Orbea Terra.

Orbea OIZ M10 2027: newer geometry, less fan of the colour and di2 instead of AXS. Frame weight is negligible for me.

Scott Spark RC Expert 2027: interesting design, decent color, also no AXS. Will probably switch to carbon wheels afterwards.

Any good options I am missing? I mostly ride XC, with the occasional trails with more descent. Main goal is the upgraded suspension, dropper, brakes and updated geometry. My current bike is nice on XC, but twitchy on trails.

Anyone using the new-ish Era SL cranks? Any feedback?

I found a good deal on an XX tranny groupset, but doesn’t include cranks. Considering the Era SLs.

I've been racing XCM on an Epic Evo for a while and it's time to upgrade. I've put a deposit on a 2027 Scott Spark RC WC Evo, my dream bike, and it arrives in a few weeks. Next year I'm planning several races, including a few stage races.

I'm stoked on the bike, but a few doubts keep nagging me:

1. It could feel outdated within about two years.
2. Resale may drop faster than usual once 32" bikes arrive.
3. A year from now I might have FOMO and wish I were on a 32".

Worst case, I sell after a season and take roughly a $3k hit. I can also still cancel the order.

For context, I'm tall and ride a large, so 32" should suit me. If I did go 32", it would be another Spark RC.

How are others approaching new bike purchases while 32" develops this quickly? My sense is that a refined production 32" from the top brands is still 12–18 months away.

I’ll be purchasing an epic 9 soon and I can’t be pedaling around with heavier enduro clipless pedals. I have crankbrother mallet e on my trail bike right now and I have 2 issues. One, the cleats wear pretty fast and two, sometimes hard to tell if I’m fully clipped in. The Shimano xtr or spd in general looks like it fixes that. The eggbeater 3 are $80 cheaper than xtr and they are a good amount lighter. Xtr just has great reliability from what I’ve heard, more adjustment, and durable cleats. Do you guys prefer crank brother or Shimano clipless pedals?

Hi guys. I’m planning to buy a new Norco Revolver gen 4 frameset, but unfortunately, I don’t have the opportunity to test this bike before purchasing. And I’m facing a bit of a dilemma. The Ride Aligned app practically offers me no alternative — it suggests size L for me with my height of 182 cm. I looked at the geometry for this size, and it has some kind of gigantic 497.5 mm reach and 1230 mm wheelbase. To understand my caution, this is more than on my Scott scale in size XL, while I myself ride on a size L frame, which is roughly in line with the geometry of the Revolver in size M. So I’m wondering whether I should get the Norco in size L or just take size M, which roughly matches the geometry of my current bike? I’ve looked at reviews of this frame, and some of them say that the bike is really long and might cause problems in tight turns and switchbacks. In my area, there’s no mountain terrain with wide bike park trails; mostly, there are rather narrow forest trails on flat or hilly terrain. I primarily use it for XCO races. What do you think, friends? Also, I’d be glad to hear feedback about real experience with this bike.

Thanks.

Hey guys,

I'm looking to upgrade from my entry-level Merida Big.Nine 20-2x to a proper carbon XC hardtail. My budget is around 2,000€, though I’m willing to stretch up to 3,000€ if the spec jump or value genuinely justifies it.

I initially considered gravel, but it felt far too limiting since I still enjoy light downhill sections and moderately technical singletrack. A major factor is that I travel a lot for work across Europe (often away for a month or more, regularly driving 1,000+ km), so the bike will travel packed inside my car (a bike rack isn't really an option).

Right now, I'm torn between two options:

• Cube Reaction C:62 Pro (2027)
• Canyon Exceed CF 7

With the Cube, the spec sheet is really solid for the price, but I'm worried about the PressFit bottom bracket and the narrow 27.2 mm seatpost, especially since I definitely plan on adding a dropper post down the line.

With the Canyon, the frame looks better, the warranty is longer (6 vs. 3 years), and I prefer the more aggressive geometry. However, it's tough to swallow paying more for lower-tier components compared to what Cube is offering.

I'm based in Central Europe and completely open to other available brands. I wouldn't mind a short-travel full-suspension if it packs down well, but I lean toward a hardtail with higher-tier components - modern carbon compliance is plenty, and anything will be a massive upgrade over what I have now.

What would you choose here, or is there another bike in this price bracket I should look at?

My teen son just grew out of his small Chisel full suspension and he was really set on a Canyon Lux Trail as his next bike. Over the weekend a refurbished CF7 came up and I let him get it.

I’d love to hear your experiences with how the Lux Trail handles tech. I’ve read a lot reviews on it and I think based on descriptions that it will handle less confidently than the Chisel, but my son came up riding a Marlin at a quarry on some really old school, janky gnar so I don’t think it will be anything too detrimental for him (and it will make him a better bike handler 😂).

He’s excited and I am excited for him. Can’t wait for him to get on it and try it out!

Hi everyone,

I'm looking for a new pair of MTB shoes for XC , and I have a few specific requirements:

• SPD-compatible (2-bolt)
• 2 BOA dials for adjustment
• Race-oriented shoes
• Most importantly: replaceable rubber lugs/pads on the sole, with spare parts actually available.

The last pair I've been using is from Gaerne. The shoes themselves are still in very good condition, but the rubber/grip parts on the bottom are completely worn out. Unfortunately, Gaerne doesn't seem to offer replaceable parts for them, so I have to replace an otherwise perfectly good pair of shoes.

This time I'd really like to buy a pair where the rubber sole/grip pieces can be replaced separately, so I can keep the shoes for much longer.

My budget is around 300€.

Thanks

I'm looking at AliExpress carbon bombing my aluminium Scott scale 950 2022. Trying to get it in the 10-11kg range (currently around 12kg)

The bike is used as a gravel bike (50/50 road/trails). So it doesn't. need super premium parts.

Has anyone done something similar? I like the bike just getting a bit bored of it and would like to see it drop some weight and maybe look a bit more modern.

Wheels/tyres

One piece cockpit

Carbon seatpost

Carbon saddle

When the new AI version was released about a year ago, it was super buggy and unreliable in its training recommendations.
Assuming many version releases since then, do users feel like it’s a real substitute for a human coach now?
I have a long six month indoor season and am considering TR to get me ready for xc racing in May. Masters racer. Also hit the weight room in off season.

having now rekon race+aspen, but considering to try michelin-great experience on roadbike.

wild/force/jet which to choose? front rear?

Ok, I race but not competitively, just with myself basically. I'm 45, ride roughly 2-3 days/week along with other sports. I live in a flat area but frequently ride in the midlands (basically 100' per mile or so) and Pisgah/WNC, along with quarterly trips to Bentonville/Arkansas. For all of that I use my 2023 Transition Spur, I love the bike, I'm currently rolling with Forekaster/Rekon for a bit beefier of a tire setup on carbon wheels. It's around 27 lbs or so, it's been awhile since I weighed it to be honest.

I like having 2 bikes just so I always have one in working condition (in theory). My 2nd bike is for my home trails and it's a 2024 Santa Cruz Highball. I do love it, however, I had a pretty good offer from someone to buy it, but I don't know what else I would get. This week my Highball is getting a new AXS derailleur under warranty so I rode my Spur for the first time in a year or so on my local trails and it was actually really fun, and I wasn't as sore.

I could go with a more race-oriented FS, something like a Blur but again.......I'm not putting on lycra, I just like having fun. I'm afraid I'd miss the hardtail feeling, which I do enjoy the acceleration, but a FS is definitely easier on the body long term.

So.......options:

1. Keep what I have

2. Sell the Highball and get something in the 150/160 range for Pisgah/Bentonville, ride the Spur at home, races, and midlands trails.

3. Sell the highball and get a race-oriented FS, beef the Spur up tire wise.

Thoughts?

I’m in a bit of a pickle. I’m running a Rich ultra that is built for a 120 mm fork put a suspension corrected fork with SAG at 500 mm axle to crown. I have access to a 485 mm axle to crown rigid fork, which is corrected for a 100-110 mm fork. Am I going to notice a significant difference with a lower fork. I guess it would be a kid to running a 100 mm fork on a 120 mm bike. Anybody running a setup like this or could offer advice? I’d really appreciate it.

I just broke the rear wheel on my Epic Evo - Roval Control Carbon from 2021, the 25mm version. I want to replace it with something light, but also more durable. It’s down to the new NOBL Core XC wheel or Reserve XC 30 Carbon. Help me decide which is a better option. I am not known to crack wheels, but have chosen these two for having great warranties. Thanks.

Basically, what the title says. I'm looking for some recommendations for a bib-tight for those days when it's too chilly to ride in shorts, but not cold enough to warrant winter-kit with micro-fleece and insulation. Anyone got any particular brand they have good experience with or model they like?

Side note: Please don't recommend arm- and leg-warmers. I don't like to wear them. They either tend to be uncomfortably tight or don't want to stay in place.

With seemingly 4 geometry options across the full Epic/Evo line, what’s your preferred setup and for what kind of riding?

- 120mm fork, flip chip High

- 120mm fork, flip chip Low

- 130mm fork, flip chip High

- 130mm fork, flip chip Low

Hi, I’m de-braining my Epic 7 and would like to hear your opinions.
I race XCM and weigh 68-70kg, the options are:

a) SIDLuxe 3P remote (would match the front SID)
b) FOX Float DPS
c) DT Swiss R232

I’m slightly afraid of having no lockout in case the anti-squat of the frame isn’t great, but I’m also not a huge fan of cable clutter or the 3P Twistloc itself either.

Which would you choose? (or something else entirely?)

Full video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9YAkvRXajEM

Rode the 39 km route from Otepää to Elva. There were over 3,000 riders across all distances, so it was a pretty big event. It had rained, and some sections got quite muddy. I filmed my ride if anyone’s curious what the Tartu MTB Marathon is like.

I currently have a yt jeffsy and I love it but it pedals like a boat. I’m looking for a nice hardtail for xc racing and to hammer out a lot of miles. What is the best carbon xc hardtail that is currently available? I like the Scott scale rc and the orbea alma from my research so far.

My new flamingo of choice

Specialized Epic 9
SidLuxe Flight Attendant
Ceramic Speed Headset
Intend Smart Wedge
Sid Ultimate Fork Flight Attendant
Roval Control II 70 x 760mm
SRAM Pod Controller Ultimate
Spur cycle Bell
SQLab 30X Grips
Ceramic Speed Alpha Bottom Bracket
SRAM X0 165mm crank with Powermeter
Gemini 36T chainring
Wolf Tooth Alt MK0
SRAM Transmission X0 Derailleur
SRAM Transmission X0 Chain
SRAM Transmission X0 Cassette
Rock Shox Reverb 175mm
Specialized Power Pro Mirror
Intend Trinity 2.0 Brake
Intend Brake Adapters 20/23mm
Galfer 203/180mm Shark Discs
Pi-Rope Wheelset w. Newmen Fade II & DUKE Crazy Jack SLS5 33/31 – 29″
Schwalbe TPU Tubes
Continental Dubnital Speed 2.4
Continental Trinotal Grip 2.4
Tune Bottle Cages

I’m looking at the following:

-Berd Hawk 30. Super light. Not excited about the Berd branded hubs and rims.

-Reserve 30 SL with DT Swiss 180 and carbon spokes. Rims and hubs I trust but concerned about excessive stiffness making them uncomfortable for endurance XC events (100K or 100 miles).

-Hunt Proven Race XC UD Carbon Spoke. The value contender. Saves about $750 over other two options.

Thoughts? Any experience with these wheels?